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Thread: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

  1. #121
    Member Biggs427's Avatar
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Finally got the time to finish my new Z axis.

    The taller axis (195mm vs 110mm) gives me more clearance which is great when I have long cutter or drills bits.
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_1746-2-jpg


    The XL belt seems to work well. I'm running 1:1 ratio with the 10mm pitch ballscrew and the 270oz stepper seems to keep up. The ballscrew, even if it is chinese, have less backlash than the T8 leadscrew I had. Even if it was preloaded. The only mising thing is the cable management for the spindle power and control.
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-z-build1-jpg

    I'm glad with th enew Z axis of the machine, I can now access ALL bolts easily so a bolt check shouldn't take more than ten minutes!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img-1643-jpg   Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-z-build1-jpg   Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_1746-2-jpg  


  2. #122
    *Registered User* Carl10's Avatar
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    That is a great machine and is similar to the type of design I plan to build. To that end I have a few questions about your build:
    1) What was the reason for the leveled epoxy under all the slides? With the care you took building the pieces I would have thought the Birch would have been flat (or is it for strength, other?)
    2) The epoxied in inserts you showed, the holes were 1mm larger than the insert with a semi-cured epoxy coating? And these were stronger than the tapped sandwiched aluminum plate?
    3) I noticed along the way that your spindle bracket was beefed up (as I see many others do as well). Was this from a performance observation or just a precaution?
    4) I know you checked for flex early on, but now that you have used it for a while is there any area you see as a weakness?

    Thanks for sharing your project.



  3. #123
    Member Biggs427's Avatar
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Carl10:

    1- I used epoxy to make certain that each axis have the most leveled plane possible. IMO the level of precision I wanted was not possible to obtain with wood only construction. Also, the structure was sealed with epoxy as I wanted to minimize dilatation due to humidity.

    2- The steel inserts tend to strip less than the aluminium and it is way easier/ faster to install with a simple template. This was not semi cured epoxy but thickened epoxy. I used West 403 filler to thicken the epoxy but I think 404 or 406 would have been better filler for that type of use.

    3- My first spindle bracket was doing a fair job but I rebuild it for two reasons: I needed it taller for when I'm using longer cutter and I wanted the maintenance to be easier so I designed it with maintenance in mind. Before the rebuild, it took 60-75 minutes to do a simple bolt check on the Z axis and had to disassemble some parts. Now it takes less than 5-6 minutes to do a bolt check and put grease where it is needed. Also to have a better motion control. Ballscrew to replace the T8 leadscrew.

    4- Probably the MGN12 rails but if I beef up my Z axis with 15mm rails, I'd probably need a bigger spindle as I'm already pushing my Hitachi router. When you beef up a weaker part, some other part will become the weaker part and so on...

    For wood working it is more than enough for my needs. I can even do some basic alu machining with "decent" speed and finish so I'm happy.



  4. #124
    Member Biggs427's Avatar
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Since the new Z axis is a little bit stiffer and have less backlash I decided to give a try to steel again.

    I needed a 1/4 drive 24mm socket ground flat to proprely torque my mountain bike fork top caps.

    I used 1.5in round stock

    I used 1/4 and 7/64 2 flutes cutters from carbide.ca with AlTiN coating (I think...).

    For facing operations I used 0.5mm (0.019) DOC with 1.5mm (0.059) WOC. I could have used 1mm DOC.

    For pocket operations I used same WOC but with 1mm DOC. Both facing and pocket operations were generated using 2D adaptive clearing. (trochoidal cutting)

    For coutour operations, I used 2mm DOC and 0.75 WOD.

    With the 1/4 cutter I went with 0.001 chipload and 0.00075 for the 7/64.

    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_2001-jpg

    The work holding for the first side was too ghetto for my taste so I made a fixture using plywood using the same work offset as the socket.
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_2057-jpg

    I used the same recipe for the other side.

    The dimensions are within 0.001-0.003. The surface finish is less than stellar but for a router made of wood I'm quite happy.
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_2061-jpg

    One important thing I had to take into account was to take my spindle runout (0.0015) into account when I installed my cutter.

    With the proper recipe and runout taken into account, no cutters were harmed during this job.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_2001-jpg   Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_2057-jpg   Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_2061-jpg  


  5. #125
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    Default

    Looks awesome. Nice work!



  6. #126
    Member Biggs427's Avatar
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Thanks!

    I am not winning a surface finish contest with this one but the part is fully functional and that's what is important.



  7. #127
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    That's awesome, but I'd be more inclined to drive a mile down the street and buy one for $12.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  8. #128
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    That's awesome, but I'd be more inclined to drive a mile down the street and buy one for $12.
    Where's the fun then?



  9. #129
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Nice build - I have to admit I hadn't seriously considered a wood build before, but this is definitely causing me to re-think things - seems like a much better option than single-alu-extrusion builds that you frequently see.

    First question - what drove the decision to mount the L/R torsion boxes to the sides of the main platform? I was thinking it might be easier to make an oversized main platform and level the entire surface, and then mount the (smaller, now) L/R boxes to the top. It would obviously need a different mounting strategy, but could be glued/epoxied if nothing else.

    Second question as I'm frantically reading around on epoxy leveling. It seems that West 105+209 or Precision Epoxy are the recommended products for this. I'm guessing that the widely available 'table top/bar top epoxy' products don't cure hard enough for this application and will likely creep under load. I"m just wondering whether they're good enough for initial experiments since they're cheap and I'm almost certain to screw up the first couple attempts.



  10. #130
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by dwkdnvr View Post
    First question - what drove the decision to mount the L/R torsion boxes to the sides of the main platform? I was thinking it might be easier to make an oversized main platform and level the entire surface, and then mount the (smaller, now) L/R boxes to the top. It would obviously need a different mounting strategy, but could be glued/epoxied if nothing else.
    That would have give less area to glue the small torsion boxes to the big one and I still would have had to level the two sides.



    Quote Originally Posted by dwkdnvr View Post
    Second question as I'm frantically reading around on epoxy leveling. It seems that West 105+209 or Precision Epoxy are the recommended products for this. I'm guessing that the widely available 'table top/bar top epoxy' products don't cure hard enough for this application and will likely creep under load. I"m just wondering whether they're good enough for initial experiments since they're cheap and I'm almost certain to screw up the first couple attempts.
    I used Rustoleum countertop epoxy to seal the base of my machine and I'd think that it could be hard enough. The problem would be that it was too thick to proprely level.

    If you're lucky enough to have a proper spec sheet from the countertop epoxy mfg, check that the viscosity is low enough. As a reference, the 105-206 is 725cps
    https://www.westsystem.com/wp-conten...xy-Resin-1.pdf



  11. #131
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Little update.

    GRBL version 1.1h was released last summer with dual screws / limit switch support. This enable self squaring gantry!

    Only problem was that enabled, dual axis prevent the uses of spindle enable pin which I need to activate my SuperPID.

    Instead of usint 3 pins to read 4 limit switches, (By default, X2 and Z shares the same pin D12) I decided to share X1 pin D9 with Y. This freed pin D10 for spindle enable.

    To achieve this I had to modify GRBL source code. The code is really simple and even with my limited C programming skills I had a build working in no time.

    Those who might be intertested by the modification, here's how I did this.
    https://github.com/gnea/grbl/issues/828

    This is by no mean a "fit all" modification, use it at your own risks, but it could give some insight on how to do it.



  12. #132

    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I had been wondering how to get epoxy to level out on 2 different rails. Am I correct in assuming you constructed troughs between the rails to do a single pour? (Update, I found some answers reading more of your thread and added what I found)

    A couple questions:
    What epoxy did you use? (https://www.westsystem.com/wp-conten...xy-Resin-1.pdf)
    Was the epoxy free flowing enough that you didn't need to worry about the epoxy finding its level across all the rails and troughs?
    How thick did your epoxy end up on top of your sides?

    Thank you & great build.



  13. #133
    Member Biggs427's Avatar
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I don't know if it matter anymore; I just got my access back, but here it is:

    Quote Originally Posted by TheWire View Post
    A couple questions:
    What epoxy did you use? (https://www.westsystem.com/wp-conten...xy-Resin-1.pdf)
    Was the epoxy free flowing enough that you didn't need to worry about the epoxy finding its level across all the rails and troughs?
    How thick did your epoxy end up on top of your sides?
    I used West 105 resin + 206 "slow" hardener. With two path between each rails and the "flowier" 206, it ended up ok.

    The thickness was around 4mm. I wouldn't go bigger as the epoxy might heat up too much



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Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

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