Great looking router design.I like your placement of the guiderods
and bearings on the Y axis. I have questions about your spindle
motor speed.....isn 't 5000 Rpm too slow for a wood router?
For a 1/4" wood bit I would think 25-30,000 Rpm .
This is my first router I have designed from scratch. I am designing it around the linear ways that I got from e-bay.
I am building the spindle right now. I chose to not go with a router because of the excessive noise and not being able to use my R-8 collets from my mill. I am going to power the spindle with a DC motor so I can get variable speed. If I run the pulley system on a 1:2 I can get 5000 RPM which will be fine for my use.
Similar Threads:
Last edited by HomeCNC; 11-17-2004 at 03:58 PM.
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Great looking router design.I like your placement of the guiderods
and bearings on the Y axis. I have questions about your spindle
motor speed.....isn 't 5000 Rpm too slow for a wood router?
For a 1/4" wood bit I would think 25-30,000 Rpm .
Thank You,
Paul G
Check out-
[URL="http://www.signs101.com"]www.signs101.com[/URL]
Normal wood routing uses 2 flute router bits. I will be using solid carbide 4 flute end mills with this machine. I not only want to machine wood, but metal as well. My shaper table in my wood shop only turns about 5000 RPM and has no problems with wood cutting in surface quality even on end grain.
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
What is the cutting IPM?
Thank You,
Paul G
Check out-
[URL="http://www.signs101.com"]www.signs101.com[/URL]
MasterCAM says the feed rate for wood with a 4 flute cutter running at 5000 RPM would be 50 IPM. This will be no problem. My setup using .200 pitch ball screw stock running on a 2:1 ratio with my servo motors I can get 76 IPM on a linear move.
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Very interesting. I have been considering building a CNC router for about a year now. I've done a little work on the design but not near what you have here. I've got the linear rails for the "X" and "Y" and an almost complete "Z" axis slide unit. Plans are to use a router (which has already been bought and is still in the box). What size of work envelope is your router? The rails I got are 110" for the "X" axis and 56" for the "Y" axis. I wanted to have a work envelope of at least 8 feet by 4 feet so that we could work on an entire sheet of plywood, if needed.
Please keep us posted of your progress. And when I get started, I'll post some pictures as I go.
Last edited by E-Stop; 05-14-2003 at 01:26 PM.
E-stop, You are thinking of a much larger router than I am building. My X rails are 42" long and my Y rails are 28" long. I have a work area of 24 X 24. My Z rails are 18". I want my router to sit on a table I have.
Are you designing your table to be stationary like mine, or are you going with a moving table with a stationary up right?
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
The table will be stationary and the gantry style head will travel. Making the table move would require about twice the floor space of the stationary design. With a 4' x 8' work envelope, it's going to take up a good chunck of real estate anyway.
I forgot to mention it but the Z axis unit is on 18" rails.
One thing I found interesting in your drawing is the placement of the Y axis rails. I have been trying to decide which way to mount the rails. The two choices were mounting them parallel to the table or perpendicular to the table. In your design I see the two rails are not in either of these orientations but kind of one each way. What factors influenced your decision to mount them this way? Is there an advantage of one way over the others? I like the looks of yours and I am considering changing mine but first I want to weigh all the details.
Last edited by E-Stop; 05-14-2003 at 01:29 PM.
The main reason I placed the Y rails in the postion shown was because if the rails were side by side on the vertical plane the all the balls at the top of the bearings would be taking the wear.
Also after I started to look at this design more, I also liked the fact that I can adjust the top rail to help square up the spindle to the table in the X direction. I will use the spindle mounting screws to square it up in the Y direction.
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I managed to finish my Servo controller box this weekend. It worked great! I used a torid for the transformer this time. Wow do I like them.
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I got a little carried away with the front grill. I painted it black and engraved the lettering in with my CNC mill.
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Nice work keep the pics coming...
Thank You,
Paul G
Check out-
[URL="http://www.signs101.com"]www.signs101.com[/URL]
I had a very good weekend, I was able to get most of the frame finished. The detail work of fitting the ball screws and bearing will be coming soon. I wish Reid Tool would get my Ball screw and ball nuts off of backorder! It's been almost 3 weeks now.
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Great looking machine! Very nice. Keep the pictures coming.
Your shop is much too neat....could you mess it up a little before taking any more pictures...I am worried my wife might see it..
Eric
I wish it wouldn't crash.
O.K. I'm jealous. I'm still at the beginning stages of putting everything into perspective. I might be analyzing things a bit too much. Or you just make it look simpler than it is.
I’m also surprised about how easy it’s going together. So far I just been machining the bar stock to the proper length and then drilling the holes in the proper spot. (lots of tapping). It seems to be going together great! I did need to slot the mounting holes in the upper Y-axis rail to get it so the Z-axis plate was parallel to the gantry (I used my calipers to check the distance).
Balsaman – If you could only see what is behind the camera! I can’t back up any farther than where I took the picture, because of all the crap around me and on the floor.
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Looks great- I have also been thinking about using a motor/spindle setup with R8 collets. Can you provide a little more detail there? Is the motor mounted to the movable potion of the Z axis? Will you be supporting reverse?
I was considering finding a used cheapo mill and taking the motor/geared-head assembly as well as the quill, and mounting it on the back side of my gantry. Then I could manually dial in the speed as needed, and use a quick-change R8 collet system to drill and tap as needed (I have a Tapmatic tapping head).
I was also considering using a stepper to drive the drill portion. Then I could create a tapping motion- Forward at a certain RPM, with a certain feed rate, then reverse and back out of the threads. A quick-change setup that replaces the router with this setup might be more feasible, but I'm concerned about the software control of the RPM. Anyone think I could use a 4-axis system to control the table + drill RPM?
Zeph
I am wondering if a stepper has the speed/torque to do tapping.
Eric
I wish it wouldn't crash.
Me too. I don't need high-speed tapping though, so 120 RPM would be plenty fast. I just can't see mounting a huge 2 HP AC motor (like what is on my Jett mill) on a CNC table. Too much mass to move around when the router head is being used.
Zeph
This is the area of my design that I'm not sure about yet. My plan was to find a DC motor and run it with a SRC speed control. Use a 2:1 ratio to get around 5000 RPM. I have having trouble finding a DC motor that will not weigh so much and do 2500 RPM at 90 VDC. I will mount the motor and spindle to the Z-axis slide. My concern is weight.
I can always fall back on getting a standard router. I just wanted something that was not so loud.
Thanks
Jeff Davis (HomeCNC)
http://www.homecnc.info
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)