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Thread: Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build

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    Default Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build

    Decided to start an official thread on this machine. I'm kinda late to the party though because I didn't discover this forum until 3/4 of the way through my build. As I get a chance, I will take photos of all the different pieces and include them here.

    My machine is being built with discarded materials. I barely have $500 into it including electronics. It has taken me about a year and a half to get to this point, most of the time spent waiting for the materials to appear by the dumpster. Like Tom Hanks line in Cast Away, "You never know what the tide will bring" has been my mantra during this build.

    I've just replaced the stock power cord on my Bosch 1617 EVS router. The pics show how the wire is hooked up and how the Super-pid sensor is located. I added a ground wire to the spindle for the zero touch off function. You can see a bolt in the housing above the power cord. That originally was a banana jack for the ground wire lead, but with the new 3 conductor power cord, that extra loose wire is not needed.

    I replaced the original strain relief with a PCV grommet so that the wire can be routed better. With the old strain relief, I had to turn the router at an awkward angle so that the cord didn't hit the end of the Y axis and cause it to lose steps.

    I still have to route the wire through the cable chain but I'm waiting on some bracket ends that I ordered from Igus. One of the few things I've actually purchased, but they are only $5.00 for a pair, so I don't feel too guilty.

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    Default Rattler Damper

    A shoddy bomb casing filled with used pinball machine parts.

    I turned this on the lathe one night out of scrap metal laying around the shop. Nine holes running three different clearances, all with slightly rusty pachinko machine balls saved from when I was a kid in the 70's.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solslyva-cnc-009-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solslyva-cnc-010-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solslyva-cnc-011-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solslyva-cnc-012-jpg  

    Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solslyva-cnc-013-jpg  


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    Default DIY Anti-Backlash Nuts

    I saved the cutoffs from the 5 start leadscrews and made a tap with the bench grinder for the taper and a die grinder for the slots. I had some scrap Delrin rod left over from another project so I turned down a shoulder on the lathe, and added some grooves for O-rings. Then I tapped it with my DIY tap. After tapping, I chucked up my dremel handpiece in the lathe cross slide and cut the slots in the nut. It took about an hour to make all of them. Delrin machines real easy.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solslyva-cnc-008-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solslyva-cnc-007-jpg  


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    More photos of the machine in its current state. Y end plates are 1/4" steel scrap with extra holes for no extra charge. Bolted to the gantry with 3/8" bolts into knife edge anchors imbedded into the wood. The gantry is laminated plywood with 1/8" angle iron on top and bottom.

    All rails are chrome rod from a clothing display out by the mall dumpster one day. The back motor support is 3/16" steel that used to be a display for athletic shoes, again by the mall dumpster. Same with the cabinet doors.

    The bed is a torsion box and is adjustable via jack bolts at each corner.

    X rail supports are laminated birch plywood 8" wide. All dimensional wood used for the legs was increased to 2X8.

    The angle bearing blocks on the Y end plates were made from aluminum bar scrap after the original ones failed the pull test in a bad way.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva-004-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva-005-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva-006-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva-007-jpg  



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    That's looking great so far.... like the mods, hope to see more pics and maybe some vods...



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    Quote Originally Posted by louieatienza View Post
    That's looking great so far.... like the mods, hope to see more pics and maybe some vods...
    Thanks louieatienza! I can't wait to get it together again for real this time So I can test your recommended fix for my arc/circle problem. You and ger21 were a big help getting my Z moving correctly.

    This machine seems pretty solid to me. Hoping to cut some aluminum parts for the Z and a new router mount eventually. We'll see.....



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    Default Cable chain installed

    I was going to make my own cable chain after I got my machine running properly but a bunch of Igus fell into my lap. Now I'm really glad I didn't do the DIY route. The Igus stuff is engineered really well. Knowing what I know now, even if I didn't get a bunch of this stuff for free it would be worth shopping ebay for it.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva-010-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva-009-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva-jpg  


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    louieatienza,

    Changing my "look ahead" to 200 lines did the trick. Smooth as butter. CV mode "on". Turning this off made it go really slow and arcs in segments. My guess is that @200 IPM it was overrunning the 20 line buffer. Not sure why the default in Mach is set so low.

    Thanks again!

    Just have to wire in the SuperPID to the controller and order my E-Stop button and hall effect home switch parts. I don't want to rely on the tiny Radio Shack button I've been using for e-stop.



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    Default Remote mounting of SuperPID screen

    Mounted the screen, knob and switch in one of the computer bay covers today. Used the CNC to machine the holes. I didn't allow extra size for the rounded corners so I had to use a file in the corners.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solslyva-jpg  


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    Figured that I better update this thread even though I haven't done much on the machine lately. Waiting on Allegro hall effect sensors from China to get here.

    I do have an issue with my zeroing procedure that I have to work out. I'm running Mach 3 with the blue screen mod. It works perfectly most of the time, however every once in awhile, usually when I have a fine engraving carbide bit in the collet it doesn't. It does the double touch like normal, then drives the bit full speed into the plate instead of backing away from it.

    I've broke three bits this way, two of them brand new never used. That gets expensive quick. Especially since I have to order more now. Never did get to run my engraving file because of it.

    Thanks for any advice, I'm sure I must be doing something wrong.



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    Default Broken Stepper Shaft :(

    My Y Axis stepper shaft broke halfway through a run today. I knew that would eventually be a problem due to the poor engineering practice of radial loading. I just didn't think it would be so soon since my machine is not even finished yet.

    Now I get to order a new stepper and re-engineer that part too. Typical of this machine. Build is now approaching the two year mark.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva9-jpg  


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    I have had one motor shaft break, and it was due to a misalignment with the lead screw. Some of the motor shafts are two pieces that appear to be joined with electric current passed through the shaft pieces. Mine has smoothly faced square ends with three small pits where the faces were attached. It was not a fully welded joint. I don't know if this is done as a safety feature or not.

    My solution was to drill the mounting plate holes larger so the motor is better aligned to the lead screw before tightening the motor mounting screws. Shaft alignment needs to be as close to perfect as it can be, and don't depend on the coupler to bend enough for alignment. It just puts the shafts in a permanent bind.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    Quote Originally Posted by CarveOne View Post
    Shaft alignment needs to be as close to perfect as it can be, and don't depend on the coupler to bend enough for alignment. It just puts the shafts in a permanent bind.
    Agreed. That is why timing belts can be a bad idea. I basically puts the shaft in a bind radially. It will flex for awhile but after enough revolutions, the stress adds up and it shears cleanly. My other two axes use belts too but the Z has very little load, and the X has two opposing belts to even out the load. Hopefully the motor shafts will not break in the near future.

    I'll be converting my Y motor to go direct to the screw. Not sure if I want to machine a coupler or just buy one.

    Very mad that I recognized this problem with the design before it was built, but took a chance on it anyway.



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    New assessment of the shaft breakage issue..........I've determined the main cause of the stress on the shaft. Because of the geometry of the machine as designed, in order to line up the motor pulley with the leadscrew pulley, I had to machine a shaft extension to extend the stepper shaft. This increases the leverage and resulting radial loading of the shaft.

    I'm redesigning and relocating the bearing block on that side so that I don't have to use an extension on the stepper shaft. That should take care of it as long as I don't put too much load on the belt tensioner pulley. I'm putting the bearing on the inboard side of the Y axis plate instead of the outboard side. Clearances are pretty tight but I think I can get it to work.

    I have to wait for the new stepper to get here, so I've got some time to dial it in.

    I wonder if anyone has ever come up with a solution to salvage steppers with broken shafts? There must be a whole bunch of them out there.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Devastator View Post
    -snip-

    I wonder if anyone has ever come up with a solution to salvage steppers with broken shafts? There must be a whole bunch of them out there.
    Since mine was not a dual shaft motor, it now serves as a good paperweight. It was replaced with a 3/8" shaft motor.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    Quote Originally Posted by CarveOne View Post
    Since mine was not a dual shaft motor, it now serves as a good paperweight. It was replaced with a 3/8" shaft motor.
    Mine was not dual shaft either. I did find a place to get the same motor for $25.50. Not bad for 291 oz in. I've been pretty happy with the torque and speed of these on this machine. I ordered two so I'd have a spare.



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    Spent some time with the caveman tools and fabbed up an inboard bearing mount so that I could get the timing belt pulley real close to the end plate. I kept a 1mm gap to keep it from rubbing. I had to machine the extension off of my leadscrew. I originally heated it and press fit it so the only way to get it off was to slowly turn it down until it was paper thin and then it fell off.

    Spent some time with the alignment and it seems to be aligned much better than my first setup and with the pulley closer to the bearing, there will be less deflection of the screw when the belt tension is applied.

    One bummer is that there was no good way to incorporate my thrust bearing on that end. Loads are probably light enough to not worry about it, but from a design standpoint it still bothers me a bit.

    I put some extra screws in the empty holes left over from my old mount just for cosmetics. New stepper motor arrives by end of day Thursday.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva10-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva11-jpg  


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    New motor arrived. Got it installed and managed 400 IPM on my rapids! Old max was 300 IPM. That's with 291 oz in motor and hobbycnc ezdriver.

    My tensioner pulley is on the wrong side, I know, "bad form". I tried to put one on the correct side but the hole in the end plate is in the wrong place. For the life of me I can't elongate the hole in the 1/4" steel plate with a hand held drill. So, I used a spare timing pulley fit for bearings and put in on the toothed side. Still plenty of tooth engagement so I think I'm ok.

    Took a photo of the flat I filed in the motor shaft, just to show that you have to do this if you ever want to get your gear or coupler off the shaft. nothing fancy, just a few strokes with a file. If you don't have a flat on your shaft, the setscrew deforms the shaft and then you can't get your gear off without a puller.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solslyva12-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-solsylva13-jpg  


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    Default First official job done!

    This is a piece of artwork commissioned by a customer and good friend.

    It's a rocket fin can. 4" diameter, fins are .125" plate 6061-T6. Hand signed and numbered.

    EDIT: I've had a few inquiries about the "toolmarks" in this piece. It is metal swirling done with a .50" wire brush in the Solsylva. Some people think it is gaudy looking, but i've always liked decorative aluminum. I'll be dong one soon with circles aka "Spirit of St. Louis" style.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-fincan-001-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-fincan-003sized-jpg  
    Last edited by Devastator; 02-26-2013 at 11:18 PM. Reason: added content


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    Quote Originally Posted by Devastator View Post
    This is a piece of artwork commissioned by a customer and good friend.

    It's a rocket fin can. 4" diameter, fins are .125" plate 6061-T6. Hand signed and numbered.

    EDIT: I've had a few inquiries about the "toolmarks" in this piece. It is metal swirling done with a .50" wire brush in the Solsylva. Some people think it is gaudy looking, but i've always liked decorative aluminum. I'll be dong one soon with circles aka "Spirit of St. Louis" style.
    Looks real cool... I've used a wire brush myself in my machine to effect an "engine turned" look.



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