Alt-0178
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
any updates Gerry ?
http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/
Amazing Build Gerry!
I can't imagine how much time you must have spent designing in CAD so far.. My back hurts just thinking about it!
What is this pink foam stuff you're talking about? Sounds like a great way to make 3D dimensional objects with voids/hollows in them...
[URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
[U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]
Unfortunately, no. I've been working on some minor updates to the 2010 Screenset.
I need to order some Epoxy tomorrow, and I may be able to assemble everything next weekend.
Rigid foam insulation. You can get it at HD or Lowes. It's usually available in 3/4", 1", 1-1/2", and sometimes 2" thicknesses.What is this pink foam stuff you're talking about?
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
[URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
[U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]
Polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue)
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
So do you plan to carve it by CNC, if so what software are you using, and what bits?.. or will any bits work?
Is melting an issue while carving (like acrylic)?
How do you hold the work while carving with CNC?
Or are you planning on carving it by hand..
This is a cool concept, and might be the hot ticket for a couple accessories I want to make...
[URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
[U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]
Yes, and I use MeshCAM. I'll use the longest ballnose cutter I can find at a reasonable price. I'll probably need to cut it in 4-6 slices.So do you plan to carve it by CNC, if so what software are you using, and what bits?
I've never cut any, but I don't believe so.Is melting an issue while carving (like acrylic)?
If you use the right bits and rpm, melting isn't an issue in acrylic either.
Here's some more info for you.
WEST SYSTEM - Projects - The "lost foam" method of composite fabrication
The Lost Foam Technique for Making Fiberglass Parts - RC Groups
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Finally tapped the holes to mount my Z axis rails. I put the tap in my drill press and turned the chuck by hand, to make sure the holes are perpendicular.
After the first 2 or 3, I started to use the drill press motor to turn the tap. It was going good, until I got too aggressive, and stripped 2 holes. The tap is 4mm, and acts like a router bit if you're not careful) Then went back to the hand method to finish the rest. I'll use some JB weld to repair the 2 stripped holes. The 26 good holes seem to be very strong, and I can get the rails very tight. With a little loctite, they won't be going anywhere.
This thing is going to be heavy!. With the rails attached, the 9x15" plywood plate weighs about 10 lbs.
I'm guessing the Y axis carriage with both Z's will end up between 100-125lbs.
Also got some more epoxy in, so I should be set for a while. I got some faster hardener to speed up cure times in the cold garage.
I'm hoping I'll get a 4 day weekend, so I can get this assembled.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Maybe too late for your build...but I had the same tapping issue getting the rails attached to the aluminum extrusions. I ended up using a battery hand drill where you can adjust the torque (I have the Milwaukee M12 Lithium). Turned out pretty good. The torque limiter prevents me from breaking the bit or stripping the hole but still saves a lot of elbow grease (or wrist grease) for turning the tap.
For that matter I found a spiral fluted tap more forgiving than the straight one (in aluminum, that is....).
hi Ger,
Looking very good and sturdy.. Your Pace is a bit slow in this build... What is your target completion date for this project.
http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/
I started the design thread 4 years ago. And only half of the CAD work is done. But I am doing the most complicated part first, so it should go faster once the Y and Z axis are done.
I actually built 2 Z axis a year ago, but didn't like them and redesigned the whole thing.
I'm also currently building a 40"x84" vacuum frame press. I need it to make the laminated panels for the gantry beam.
I built a torsion box, them used our 5x12 router at work to get it perfectly flat. I'm working on the base right now.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I needed some threaded inserts to mount the Y axis beltdrive assembly. However, I don't like inserts a whole lot, and the panel wasn't think enough for them anyway.
I originally was going to epoxy two pieces of steel angle the full height of the back panel to add stiffness. But I really wanted a thicker material for more threads.
By adding some plywood stiffeners, I didn't need the full length. So I decided to use some 3/8"x3/4" steel bars. I didn't want to order them and wait, so I went to HD, got some 3/16"x3/4", and epoxied two pieces together to get the 3/8" thickness.
Once cured, I attached them to the panel with double sided tape, and marked the hole locations on the drill press with a 1/4" bit through the 1/4" holes that were in the plate. Then I pulled them off, drilled (#7) and tapped them 1/4-20. I then epoxy and nylon screws to mount them to the back of the panel. I waxed the screws, and after the epoxy cured overnight, the screws came right out.
The threads line up perfectly, and will be plenty strong. There may be up to 150 lbs of force on them, so this was important.
I also repaired my damage rail mounting threads. However, I had to do it twice. After the JB Weld cured, I pulled out the waxed bolts. I think one wasn't waxed good enough, though, and it didn't come out cleanly. I decided to run the tap in to clean it up, and promptly stripped it again. So, this time, I bored the hole a bit larger at the top, to hold more JB Weld. The bottom of the threads were still good, so I waxed and oiled two bolts, and screwed them in to the bottom. I then filled the counterbore with JB Weld, and warmed it with a heat gun so it would get thinner and run down into the hole better. I pulled the bolts out this morning, and the seem to be much better.
However, this experience leaves me questioning the strength of the tapped phenolic holes.
I thought of a much better way that I could have done this, but it's to late now.
Before applying the phenolic, I filled pockets with thick epoxy for the tapped holes. What I should have done, was insert steel plugs into the holes. Then I could have drilled and tapped into the steel, instead of into the epoxy. It would have cost about $5, and I wouldn't have any issues. I'll be doing the X and Y rails this way for sure.
Now, I think the threads are strong enough, BUT, if I have a problem down the road, I won't have an easy way to repair them.
So I have 2 options.
1) drill and insert a steel plug, then drill and tap the 27 holes again. Probably 4-5 hours of tapping.
2) I found some M4 threaded brass hex standoffs at Mouser. I can drill an oversize hole, bolt the rails on with the standoffs, then fill the void with epoxy to lock the standoffs in place. The brass threads won't be as strong as the steel, but I won't have to spend 5 hours tapping. Well worth the $12. And while I'm ordering from Mouser, I'll get the parts for more electronic home switches.
I was all ready to start assembly, but this preemptive repair will set me back a week or two.
On the bright side, I have a 4 day weekend to work on my vacuum press base. It was originally going to be finished in exotic veneers and hardwoods, but now it's going to be painted in silver hammered paint. This will probably save me 2 months of work. Here's a drawing of what it will look like.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
they sell steel threaded inserts. just get some of those and you should be set. they are normally called stand offs. you can get them round or hex (outside) and whatever size or thread you want internal. and just about any length.
McMaster-Carr
also available at just about any hardware store.
I need 27, and McMaster wants about $1.75 each for the hex brass, which I can get for .45¢ at Mouser. Aluminum is 70¢
I haven't found any round with M4 threads.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
digikey has aluminum ones as low as .40c
local hardware places often let you buy it by the box, which cost less.
just trying to give you some options. brass would scare me a little, its soo soft.
Ger21- That epoxy will get harder over time, and after a few weeks will be harder than it is now. But it will never get that hard unless it has been through an elevated temp post cure process (heat to about 70'C for about 12 hours, then 45'C for a few days).
My CNC machine has 3 epoxy handwheels I cast to use on the stepper shafts. Two were post cured properly and are fairly hard and the 4mm grub screw has held fine. The third wheel was the last and (being in a rush) I didn't bother post curing it. The wheel has warped in shape from the tension of the grub screw and the 4mm grub screw stripped after a while (as the epoxy was lot softer). Now it has a 5mm grub screw and I treat it gently.
4mm is a very fine thread for semi-cured epoxy! I would be worried about the threads failing. The brass inserts might be a good choice, or maybe those 4-spiked steel nuts they use in wooden speaker cabinets that go in the other side?