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  1. #241
    Registered Drools's Avatar
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    Gerry, your wave effect would look really nice on a StarGate model. I think C1 is doing a StarGate model.

    Thank You.


  2. #242
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    Gerry

    Just going over your machine again and noticed that you have what looks like X0, Y0 at the end of the table rather then at the other end (motors end). Am I right in thinking this? If so, how do you handle that in Mach/gcode as I assume everything would be backward...

    Cheers
    Bruce



  3. #243
    Member ger21's Avatar
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    In post #227. X0 Y0 is the corner closest to you. I stand on the side, so X+ is to the right, Y+ is going up. Just like the screen in Mach3.

    I home X to the + end (right), and use a home offset of 45.something to make X0 in machine coordinates be at the left end.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  4. #244
    Registered GAWnCA's Avatar
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    Just found this thread and read through it all. I would like to know where you got the cable chain. Everything I find is so big when you consider you're only running 1 to 3 cables through it.

    I've got a new cnc machine that I'm doing the finishing touches to and I was thinking of mounting 1" x 1" aluminum rails along the X and Y axis as fences. I'm wondering if I could set them up so that I can use them to set the home location. How are they wired also the Z axis. I have a new controller that a friend of mine designed and built. I'll ask him where I wold connect the wires to it. I've got to wire the motors up and I hate trying to decide how and where to run those.

    Very nice build and very nice documentation. Thanks.



  5. #245
    Member ger21's Avatar
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    I would like to know where you got the cable chain.
    Some online surplus place was selling it for $1/ft. I bought the last 15 feet they had. I think you can get the same size from McMaster Carr, but it's closer to $8-$9/ft.

    I would use regular home switches, and use a home offset setting to get the fences set to 0. Or, you can probe them to set 0.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  6. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Some online surplus place was selling it for $1/ft. I bought the last 15 feet they had. I think you can get the same size from McMaster Carr, but it's closer to $8-$9/ft.

    I would use regular home switches, and use a home offset setting to get the fences set to 0. Or, you can probe them to set 0.
    First, thanks for the reply. Then, can you tell me what size the chain is?

    I'll take some photos and start a thread and maybe you can give me some advice there on the zero questions.



  7. #247
    Member ger21's Avatar
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    It's about 1" wide and 3/4" tall. You can also buy directly from Igus, they have many different sizes.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  8. #248
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    Thanks again. I guess my best bet is the company itself.



  9. #249
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    Default Re: Another First Router

    Still running strong after 6 years.

    I'm building a 13" jointer roughly based on the plans from woodgears.ca, and made these aluminum bearing mounts to hold the cutterhead.
    They are 1" 6061 aluminum.
    A lot of the work was done on the drill press, but I used the CNC to cut the bearing pockets, and to trim them square. I cut the angled corners on the table saw, then counterbored the holes with the router. I used an 1/8" rod to find the center of the holes on the angled faces.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Another First Router-bearing-blocks-jpg  
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  10. #250
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    Default Re: Another First Router

    Nice job!



  11. #251
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    Default Re: Another First Router

    Gerry they look great.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


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    Default Re: Another First Router

    gerry, im a new member here, both to the zone and cnc in general, have quite a bit of experience in woodworking and metal fabrication, which is what i do now; am thinking to build a cnc router about the size of yours; would like to make the table structure out of metal, though. what would you do different if u were building a new machine now or have u already made a different one? i cant afford to buy linear rail or bearings either, would u still go with the rollerblade bearing and pipe system?



  13. #253
    Member ger21's Avatar
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    Default Re: Another First Router

    I think a more appropriate question is what would I do to make this machine better.
    The weakest part of this machine is the Z axis. Today, for just a few dollars more than I spent, I'd build a Z axis with these:
    Aliexpress.com : Buy Original HIWIN Linear Rail Guide HGR15 L250mm rail with HGW15CA linear Sledges Carriage from Reliable rail suppliers on BST AUTOMATION | Alibaba Group

    would u still go with the rollerblade bearing and pipe system?
    If I was on a very tight budget, yes. It works very well, IF you can pull the bearings very tightly to the pipe. I'd also consider going with square steel tube, as it would minimize the small amount of wear I get on the round tubes.

    Rigidity is the most important factor in getting a good working machine.

    Keep in mind that I started building this 13 years ago, when DIY CNC was in it's infancy. Today, you have a lot more options.

    Yes, I am building a new machine. I've been designing it since before this one was finished, and have been gathering components and making small parts here and there for a while. The goal is to build the highest performing machine possible, using mostly wood for construction. Total cost will be upwards of $5K. Thread is here:
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc-wo...0-autocad.html
    The design started here:
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...ew-design.html

    The design still isn't fully complete. I work on it when I can find time.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  14. #254
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    Default Re: Another First Router

    Hi Gerry,

    I'm curious if you ever did any measurement of this machine wrt to accuracy and repeatability. This could perhaps give some perspective on the capabilities of a wooden machine. I read the entire thread (I think) and don't remember seeing any posts on the topic but perhaps you posted somewhere else?



  15. #255
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    Default Re: Another First Router

    Imo, a wooden machine can be every bit as accurate and repeatable as a steel or aluminum machine, if built properly. Within reason, though. I wouldn't build a wood machine if I needed to hold .001" tolerances, although it's probably possible to do so.

    After the initial setup 8 or so years ago, I've not really checked it or measured anything. My parts are always the size they're supposed to be.
    All the parts on this page were cut with it, and these are pretty demanding as far as accuracy and repeatability goes.
    JointCAM Gallery

    Accuracy of a machine is mostly dictated by the components you use, whether acme, ballscrews, or rack and pinion.
    And as long as the machine doesn't have so much flex that it can flex out of position, repeatability on any machine will be pretty high. You are using a computer to control movement, and the machine will always return to the same place.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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