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Thread: MountainCrafts Router/Plasma Build Thread

  1. #61
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    Default PMDX Motor Drivers & Motherboards

    PMDX boards are used by the folks at IH CNC Mills & Machinery - Made in the USA

    From what I saw, and after Tommy fixed my MACH3 up in nothing flat, my opinion is that they do not use second rate items in their mills.

    Concerning Parallel Ports:

    With computers take the conservative route; so if at all possible, do not use the parallel port on your motherboard, instead buy and install two PCI parallel port boards. Look on eBay or a http://www.newegg.com/. It appears from all I have read that it is better to burn up a $20 PCI card that a motherboard. I fix computers for friends, and it continues to astonish me what can go wrong. I had the personal settings on my Dell Workstation get corrupted this week [relative easy fix..but time consuming], though I am pretty sure what went wrong [operator error most likely!!!], it is the first time anything has happened to this computer in 7-years.

    Last edited by zool; 04-07-2011 at 11:56 PM. Reason: fixed grammer & added parallel port comment


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    I think a lot of the mechmate builders use the PMDX BOBs too...

    Ahren says that he is adding a BOB to his website this weekend... That it has a hardware sync for the second Z axis motor.. So I'll see what that's about...

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by zool View Post
    so if at all possible, do not use the parallel port on your motherboard, instead buy and install two PCI parallel port boards.
    Why 'two' additional boards? Or are you referring to a second one 'in the future' if/when I add an indexer?

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  4. #64
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    Yes. The parallel port connections are limited in number (4 step and direction pairs, so add a second BOB and give it a different port address in Mach3 or EMC2 for the B and C axes.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  5. #65
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    PMDX boards are top of the line. I believe the PMDX-126 is the preferred board by MechMate users. It's at the top of my list of choices for my next machine.
    The cool thing about it is that if you use a Smoothstepper, it mounts right to the board, which makes for a really nice installation.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    PMDX boards are top of the line. I believe the PMDX-126 is the preferred board by MechMate users. It's at the top of my list of choices for my next machine.
    The cool thing about it is that if you use a Smoothstepper, it mounts right to the board, which makes for a really nice installation.
    What exactly is a 'smooth stepper' anyways?

    Also, the 126 seems to have a lot of features, but I'm confused as to whether it's all I need or do I need additional boards to connect it to the drivers, etc?...

    I like the 30 amp spindle relay.... other boards seem to have a max of 7A or 10A

    Why do you prefer this BOB over the 132?

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  7. #67
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    It appears that I would need the PMDX 134 motherboard to mount/connect the geckos...

    I see the smooth stepper board mounted on the PMDX in the photo, but can not find such an animal anywhere on their website...

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  8. #68
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    Smoothstepper connects to the PC via USB instead of using the parallel port. It provides two emulated parallel ports worth of pins. The Smoothstepper creates the step and direction signals, rather than the PC, so you get smoother, and much faster pulses.
    Warp9 Tech. Design - Home of the SmoothStepper - Home

    The 126 is more compact, and I don't want my Geckos mounted to the BOB. Just a matter of personal preference. Also, the 126 supports two parallel ports, the 132 only one. So you have more inputs and outputs available.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  9. #69
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    You don't have to mount the Geckos to the break out board. Most just mount them to a heatsink, and run wires between the drives and BOB.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    You don't have to mount the Geckos to the break out board. Most just mount them to a heatsink, and run wires between the drives and BOB.
    What are they using for a heatsink? A common piece of aluminum? How thick?
    Or are they using a finned block intended for the purpose on each one?

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  11. #71
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    Default Why you need two parallel ports.

    Earlier in this thread you stated:" Also, I'm using 4 axis control (two on X axis), this BOB will handle that right?

    If I want to add an indexer later, will this card handle the fifth axis? Or will I have to get a different card? If so, can a basic no frill card be 'added' to the setup, or will I need to replace the entire card with a different one?"


    First parallel port goes here: With two X-axes you have already used up one parallel port.

    Second parallel goes here: And you plan a rotary axis.

    Putting a second board in when you are in the middle of an adventure installing the fourth axis, and then having something go awry with the MACH setup is a sure way to ruin a day. Again, take the conservative route with computers.

    Also: As you know setups kill ya ... take care of it all at once and you will be happier. Twenty buck for happiness is a good deal fer me!!!

    To be a bit more serious: Adding a second board latter could, but not necessarily will, change the address of the first board [it has happened]. You do recall one of Murphy's Laws do you not.

    Last edited by zool; 04-08-2011 at 12:17 PM. Reason: spelling errors .. again .. still


  12. #72
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    Okay.. I see where you're going here... If I can afford it, I'll do it all from the beginning.. Gonna be eating three meals a day of corn flakes for a bit getting this up and running.. but whatever I buy, I don't want to skimp and/or buy twice...

    Deal with the pain for a little longer in the beginning and be done with it...


    I don't know much about PCs (this is my first ever.. I've only owned Atartis and then macs), but I think I have to use the 'express' cards.. which makes them more than just 20 bucks.. I think.... But if it's what I need to do, it's what I need to do....

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  13. #73
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    Default PCI parallel port cards cost

    I bought a new-old-stock [NOS] PCI parallel port card on eBay for one-cent [$0.01] plus $4.00 shipping.

    Bidding at 4am EST has its advantages.



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    Quote Originally Posted by zool View Post
    I bought a new-old-stock [NOS] PCI parallel port card on eBay for one-cent [$0.01] plus $4.00 shipping.

    Bidding at 4am EST has its advantages.
    I think mine have to be those half sized PCI cards, so I may not be so fortunate.. but you never know...

    I'd like to find some 203V drives at that price!

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  15. #75
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    Well, just got through ordering all the NEMA 34 mounts, the gear rack clips, and the motors...

    Gonna tear it all apart this weekend, drill out the rails from 3/8" to 7/16" add some plywood shear panels to the temp base to give it some lateral stiffness, gonna make some stronger, more accurate temp wooden gantry supports, and then start reassembling it all.. using the correct length bolts everywhere (now that I have them)..

    And as soon as the stuff arrives I can put the Z axis together, mount the racks, mounts and motors, and then start getting serious about the Power Supply, drivers, BOB, and cabling...

    Hopefully, before the month is out (or shortly after), I'll be playing with a basically complete prototype, mounting the router, and milling the gantry ends from aluminum (using the table)..

    Then it's time to start building the 'steel' version of the base, buying the software and the super PID... and setting it all up out in the shop...

    Hoping to have it up and running, and hard at work getting all the kinks out in early june... (ie fine tuning, limit/home switches, E-stops, etc.)...

    Then I gotta make a vacuum system to keep the dust under control...

    Getting pretty excited!

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  16. #76
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    Great work so far - fun to see this come together for you.



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    Won't be long.... lokks great so far...



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    What kind of tolerances are the norm for the X rails in as far as parallel?

    And what is required in the way of measuring devices and methodology to really dial it in? I'm having a little problem with this, in that the table is pulling the 1530 extrusion slightly out of true.. But I don't know which side is the culprit, nor which direction, because I measure them off of each other......

    On the wooden mock up, I suppose it's not 'that' big of deal, but I really want to try and dial it in as perfect as possible on the final steel version, and getting some practice/experience/understanding on the temporary wooden one sounds worthwhile...

    Right now, the extrusion ends are the same distance apart and within 1/32 inch of square (measured diagonally).. The rails were adjusted during attachment using a 'C' clamp and two 6" length of 1/2" by 1/2" CRS bar stock...

    But in the middle of the table, with everything attached and tightened down, there is about 3/64" difference (wider) from what is measured at the two ends... I need an accurate way of finding out which extrusion (or if both are involved) is being deflected, and which direction (left/right or up/down)... as 47 thousands of an inch seems like a 'lot'...

    Last edited by Mountaincraft; 04-10-2011 at 07:18 PM.
    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  19. #79
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    Well, was a fairly productive weekend.. Tore it all down Friday afternoon, then started Saturday Morning by adding cross braces on the bottom shelf of the rig, and then screwed down the rest of the 3/4" T&G (left over from the material bed support shelf) underneath on the bottom shelf section.. So now I have plenty of room to store parts and tools and what not..

    I then added a piece of 1/2" plywood at each end and squared and screwed it down, to create a lateral shear panel system.. Table got real stiff... Replaced the wheels underneath with ones that were more solidly attached and had a higher load rating.. as well as the ability to lock..

    Re-mounted the x rail extrusions and squared them.. re-mounted the x rails and aligned and bolted them all down... Built up new, more accurate, more adjustable, and sturdier wooden gantry supports out of 3/4" furniture grade plywood..

    Re-adjusted all the bearing carriages and cleaned all the bearings surfaces and rail surfaces thoroughly with solvent.. mounted and adjusted the gantry supports and the gantry beam...

    the thing stays perfectly aligned on each side now and it feels incredibly stiff.. (Each gantry transition has 28 bolts on it..).. the gantry moves very easily and stays square to the rails...

    All the bolts to hold the Y rails are in place and ready for re-mounting of the CRS rails...

    So, when the motors and racks and what not arrive later this week, I should be ready to move forward... It should start to look like something then... will post some more pics at that time...

    I'm a bit concerned about the deflection of the rails in the middle though... I'll have to think about that some over the next few days, and see if I can come up with a method to take care of that...

    Tired and my back is cramped up some.. tedious stuff!

    Last edited by Mountaincraft; 04-11-2011 at 12:13 AM.
    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  20. #80
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    I am looking at two different BOB's right now, the PMDX 126, and the new one listed by CNC router parts... I am waiting for more info on the CNCRP version before I make my decision...

    The PMDX is attractive because of it's modular approach, rich feature package, and the ability to bundle the Gecko G203v at a discount...

    The CNCRP BOB is attractive because I stay with one vendor, and it offers the ability to drive my dual X axis table with only three axis being used from the computer.. which means when it's time to add an indexer, I'll be ready to go and the upgrade should be painless... It has a much shorter feature list (as currently posted), but seems to have all the features I 'need'....

    The CNCRP version can only be bundled with the G201x, but I want the 203... We have chronic power problems here... blackouts in the winter, and brownouts in the summer.. I want the extra protection... and I don't want to get burnt because some wire vibrates loose sometime in the future..

    If I buy the 203v direct from Gecko, it's way more expensive because Gecko is in the same state...

    So I am looking for a trustworthy out of state vendor that sells the gecko G203v (in stock or soon to be), before I can even seriously consider the CNCRP BOB..

    Recommendations for out of California Gecko Vendors?...

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


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