CNC Router Build For A Friend

[mactec54]

tskguy

Jesse B

lgalla

Thanks for your comments

This machine build is the building block, for more to come

[mactec54]

Here is a 12"x12" T-Slot Table for a smaller machine

[tskguy]

I am giddy with anticipation !!!

[restless1]

Talk about solid I want to see the gantry ..
call me impressed!
if the spindle mount and the rest is built to these tolerances it would be great for work including PCB routing!

[mactec54]

restless1

Thanks for your comments, I'm hoping to get going on the Gantry after the ballscrew bearing housings

[mactec54]

Some more new parts I started on today, Ballscrew thrust Bearing Housings, using a CNC machine for these parts

[mactec54]

The completed Ballscrew Bearing Housings,From the Blank Aluminum material
to the finished mounted parts

[louieatienza]

Damn those bearing blocks are beautiful! The freakin' BOTTOM of the machine is just as sexy as the top! Wish you weren't so far away, I have a slab of 1" Mic-6 in need of slots!

[restless1]

That whole machine looks flimsy you should cut your losses and I'll be good enough to take it off your hands
J/k

Excellent work and eye to detail this is like pron for the cnc'r!

[restless1]

From your pictures it looks like you might be using a belt driven gearing system to give your motors more torque by way of gear ratios?

[mactec54]

restless1
From your pictures it looks like you might be using a belt driven gearing system to give your motors more torque by way of gear ratios?


The machine can be built either way, With the motor mounted outside, direct 1/1, or how this one is built with the motor under the Table & belt drive, I did it this way so the machine could be more compact & the motor & encoder have more protection, This also give you a choice to gear it up or down to suit what ever performance someone may want

[tskguy]

Any updates???

[mactec54]

tskguy

I will try for something later today, I have been working on Production orders for other customers 1400 parts in one order

[tskguy]

Work before play!!

Atleast your keeping busy in this wonderfull job market...

[mactec54]

I got started on the Ballscrew

To shorten, The first thing to do is to take the Ball-Nut off the Screw, without messing it up

You need to make a mandrel/sleeve to the root diameter of the Screw & long enough for the Nut, With an ID to fit on the end of the Screw, Then you can just rotate the Nut untill it's on your mandrel/sleeve, When that is done & the Nut is secure on the mandrel/sleeve, you are ready to cut the screw to length

Cutting the Screw can be done alot of different ways,with a lot of different machines, even with a Dremel, the most important thing with cutting a Screw is not to get it HOT as this will change the hardness in that area of the Screw, So for this Screw,because it is short, I will do it on my surface grinder with a standard cutoff wheel, this is quick & easy to set up, & it does not get Hot doing it on this machine

[mactec54]

Next was to set up the Screw in the lathe, The Lathe I'm going to use for the machining of the Screw,Was made in the 1960s, I salvaged it from almost total distruction 20years ago & rebuilt it, Colchester made a lot of great machines, But these were one of the best tool room lathes they made, I did not repaint it, this is the original paint, so it's around 50years old with features only some manual lathes have today

I made a bushing to go inside the spindle to support the Screw near the unsupported end,
this is a must when machining a long length in any Lathe, An unsupported long shaft when machining will move around/vibrate & give you a bad finish on the part you are trying to machine

Once the bushing was done & in place, the 4 jaw chuck was used, with 4 pieces of .125 aluminum to protect the Screw from any jaw damage, when using a indicator, I place a .015 feeler gauge between the Screw & the indicator, the feeler gauge has to be held in the tool post a little lower than the top of the Screw, this slides smooth on the Screw & the indicator can do it's job

When the end of the Screw was set up 0.0 I put a centre in the Screw & rough turned a short piece of the Screw

[mactec54]

After the centre hole was machined in the end of the screw, It was moved out 3" & set up again for machining for the thrust bearings & drive, with the Screw indicated at the chuck & at the centre 0.0, It was ready for machining, I use a carbide insert to rough turn down the hardened Screw to within .020 of finish size, I then changed the insert for a special insert made from pure Titanium these are amazing inserts & as you will see in the photos, they will give you a near ground finish

[CarveOne]

Machine porn, I love it.... Nice work. I don't think my 12x36 Chinese gearhead lathe would ever be that smooth even with the highest grade unobtainium cutters. CarveOne

[nickswimsfast]

Mactec54, excellent documentation of machining your screw. I loved reading it, and learned quite a bit.

Why did you place a feeler gage in the tool post, and indicate to that? Was this to protect the screw from the gage?

[mactec54]

nickswimsfast

First thanks for your comments, all & any are welcome

That is so the tip of the Indicator does not get into the Ballscrew grooves,as you turn the chuck around, the Ballscrew is not like a smooth piece of shafting,The Indicator Tip would go into the ball grooves in the screw

There is a little more to do to the machined end of the screw, normally there would be a thread on there as well, but with this one I'm doing something a little different