Here is a 12"x12" T-Slot Table for a smaller machine
tskguy
Jesse B
lgalla
Thanks for your comments
This machine build is the building block, for more to come
Mactec54
Here is a 12"x12" T-Slot Table for a smaller machine
Mactec54
I am giddy with anticipation !!!
Talk about solid I want to see the gantry ..
call me impressed!
if the spindle mount and the rest is built to these tolerances it would be great for work including PCB routing!
restless1
Thanks for your comments, I'm hoping to get going on the Gantry after the ballscrew bearing housings
Mactec54
Some more new parts I started on today, Ballscrew thrust Bearing Housings, using a CNC machine for these parts
Mactec54
The completed Ballscrew Bearing Housings,From the Blank Aluminum material
to the finished mounted parts
Mactec54
Damn those bearing blocks are beautiful! The freakin' BOTTOM of the machine is just as sexy as the top! Wish you weren't so far away, I have a slab of 1" Mic-6 in need of slots!
That whole machine looks flimsy you should cut your losses and I'll be good enough to take it off your hands
J/k
Excellent work and eye to detail this is like pron for the cnc'r!
From your pictures it looks like you might be using a belt driven gearing system to give your motors more torque by way of gear ratios?
restless1
From your pictures it looks like you might be using a belt driven gearing system to give your motors more torque by way of gear ratios?
The machine can be built either way, With the motor mounted outside, direct 1/1, or how this one is built with the motor under the Table & belt drive, I did it this way so the machine could be more compact & the motor & encoder have more protection, This also give you a choice to gear it up or down to suit what ever performance someone may want
Mactec54
Any updates???
tskguy
I will try for something later today, I have been working on Production orders for other customers 1400 parts in one order
Mactec54
Work before play!!
Atleast your keeping busy in this wonderfull job market...
I got started on the Ballscrew
To shorten, The first thing to do is to take the Ball-Nut off the Screw, without messing it up
You need to make a mandrel/sleeve to the root diameter of the Screw & long enough for the Nut, With an ID to fit on the end of the Screw, Then you can just rotate the Nut untill it's on your mandrel/sleeve, When that is done & the Nut is secure on the mandrel/sleeve, you are ready to cut the screw to length
Cutting the Screw can be done alot of different ways,with a lot of different machines, even with a Dremel, the most important thing with cutting a Screw is not to get it HOT as this will change the hardness in that area of the Screw, So for this Screw,because it is short, I will do it on my surface grinder with a standard cutoff wheel, this is quick & easy to set up, & it does not get Hot doing it on this machine
Mactec54
Next was to set up the Screw in the lathe, The Lathe I'm going to use for the machining of the Screw,Was made in the 1960s, I salvaged it from almost total distruction 20years ago & rebuilt it, Colchester made a lot of great machines, But these were one of the best tool room lathes they made, I did not repaint it, this is the original paint, so it's around 50years old with features only some manual lathes have today
I made a bushing to go inside the spindle to support the Screw near the unsupported end,
this is a must when machining a long length in any Lathe, An unsupported long shaft when machining will move around/vibrate & give you a bad finish on the part you are trying to machine
Once the bushing was done & in place, the 4 jaw chuck was used, with 4 pieces of .125 aluminum to protect the Screw from any jaw damage, when using a indicator, I place a .015 feeler gauge between the Screw & the indicator, the feeler gauge has to be held in the tool post a little lower than the top of the Screw, this slides smooth on the Screw & the indicator can do it's job
When the end of the Screw was set up 0.0 I put a centre in the Screw & rough turned a short piece of the Screw
Mactec54
After the centre hole was machined in the end of the screw, It was moved out 3" & set up again for machining for the thrust bearings & drive, with the Screw indicated at the chuck & at the centre 0.0, It was ready for machining, I use a carbide insert to rough turn down the hardened Screw to within .020 of finish size, I then changed the insert for a special insert made from pure Titanium these are amazing inserts & as you will see in the photos, they will give you a near ground finish
Mactec54
Machine porn, I love it.... Nice work. I don't think my 12x36 Chinese gearhead lathe would ever be that smooth even with the highest grade unobtainium cutters. CarveOne
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
Mactec54, excellent documentation of machining your screw. I loved reading it, and learned quite a bit.
Why did you place a feeler gage in the tool post, and indicate to that? Was this to protect the screw from the gage?
Would the stars shine if nobody were there to observe them?
nickswimsfast
First thanks for your comments, all & any are welcome
That is so the tip of the Indicator does not get into the Ballscrew grooves,as you turn the chuck around, the Ballscrew is not like a smooth piece of shafting,The Indicator Tip would go into the ball grooves in the screw
There is a little more to do to the machined end of the screw, normally there would be a thread on there as well, but with this one I'm doing something a little different
Mactec54