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  1. #41
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    Default 5-axis patent drawings

    I am new to the forum. I just love it. Like others, I am looking for a cheaper version of a 5-axis head. As my contribution, I will post time-to-time some patent drawings available on www.uspto.gov . Let's start with the Tri-Tech head

    Attached Files Attached Files


  2. #42
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    Thanks for the link mottahedeh, Perhaps it would be more useful Posted here

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104059



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    Default Update

    Well it has been some time since posting as I've been on Holiday in Thailand.

    I have made some good progress since my return.

    You will be pleased to know that the BC axis are now fully assembled with the Spindle mounted also
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    You have no idea....well you probably do, how happy I am to finally see this thing together:rainfro:


    Also managed to get the X axis steppers mounted with their reduction gearboxes, I had to first turn the shafts down as the gearboxes from Keling have a 1/2" input and the steppers have a 16mm shaft.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]


    and the pinion gears on

    [IMG][/IMG]



    I pretty much have the Z axis completed

    [IMG][/IMG]


    The stepper housed within the 150 x 150mm Z Column.....still requires a belt tensioner of some type.
    Z ballscrew mounted
    pullies bored and grubscrewed
    Pullies for Pneumatic counter balance cables
    Linear rails attached

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]


    Rotating nut and stepper for the Y axis mounted

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Started the control cabinet and it's layout within.
    [IMG][/IMG]


    Vacuum table from 32mm MDF and PVC valves for the zones...still lots to be done here.
    [IMG][/IMG]


    Yet another project will take me off the router for another few weeks......stay tuned!



    Cheers Liam.



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    Liam,

    You are making great progress.

    I don't want to be a killjoy but I noticed that you pulled the rotor out of the stepper to turn the ends down. I have always seen on the zone that a stepper loses nearly half of its torque if you remove the rotor from its body. The best reason I got was relating to the type of magnet normally used with steppers.

    Jason



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    Oooops, thats not what I want to hear


    This I would like to know more about!



    Anyone?



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    Mariss from Gecko drive has mentioned that in the past. See his post on this thread:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=903

    bob



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    It certainly isn't looking good, However the X axis runs two 1700 oz-in steppers into 10:1 reduction, I should still have **** loads of torque....only time will tell

    Thanks for the heads up.



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    At worst you get to test if a 900 oz motor is able to push your gantry.

    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia


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    Ha, Great....mind you that's still 36Nm on a 35mm dia. pinion nothing to be sneezed at

    what are you doing up so late Rod? I'm in the workshop cnc'n some foam molds!

    Last edited by Master of nun; 09-15-2010 at 10:54 AM. Reason: bad at math


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    Hello Liam,
    The 5th axis B/C head really turned out great! I'm admiring your machine build which looks like it is moving along very well. I know my 5th axis head will not come close to yours but I hope it is at least functional. Keep us informed on any more progress!

    Regards,
    Wes

    Regards,
    Wes


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    Thanks Wes, I feel like I'm making progress.....one foot in front of the other, This is by far the biggest project I've ever taken on.

    If I were to do the BC again I'd probably not go with the offset like I have, but a more traditional approach like yours....Can't wait to see how the roll pinion idea of yours goes.



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    Spraying steel earlier on and then fixing rails to a gantry beam. I am a bit behind so trying to catch up so the client doesn't get too annoyed with the progress.

    cheers,
    Rod

    Perth, Western Australia


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    It might be a good idea to test the torque of that stepper motor, it's not too hard as you have anothe rmotor the same to do comparison testing.

    There's a simple procedure here; Measuring stepper motor torque.

    All you need to do is clamp the motor in a vice etc, then hang a weight off a lever on the shaft. I would suggest testing torque at all 4 fullstep (2-phase on) positions, that's easy as you can just connect the 2 winding in parallel and just use one adjustable DC supply.



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    Did you make that entire assembly off that older manual mill that is in the picture, or were you just using it to bore those holes? What machines did you use to make that, pretty impressive! Let me know!

    Quote Originally Posted by Master of nun View Post
    I've posted this in a BC axis thread But to try and keep it all together I should post it here also.

    I managed to get a few or things sorted with my BC head along with the rotating nut this last week.


    Basicaly I' shortened the two axis to make it more compact,40mm on the C axis and about 30mm on the B
    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]


    You can make out here how far the stepper is recessed inside the housing(the machined square in centre), this housing is mearly a means of connecting the two turntables at right angles to eachother.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Machining the slots for bolts connecting the housing to the B axis turntable
    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

    A shot showing the housing upsidedown, harmonic drives and steppers bolted inside.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    The square attached to B axis is two pices of 12mm plate, one will be welded to the end of the 150 x 150 x 6mm RHS of the Z column, the other bolted to previous after machining for any error in alignment from horizontal in both planes.
    [IMG][/IMG]



    More on this as it progresses


    Liam.




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    Did that laser help you out much? I leveled out my machines big table with 2 machinist levels and leveling feet, took forever and a lot of tweaking but she is straight and level.

    However..

    I have a gantry that rides on the table, as well as a carriage that rides on the gantry. Every bearing as a eccentric cam cylinder, that makes EACH bearing adjustable.. Probably for the best but it scares the **** out of me to even comprehend how to adjust it all perfectly.. Would a laser help me out? If you have any free time to take a peek at my build (link found in my signature below) i would be eternally grateful.

    Your doing a awesome job! Keep up the good work!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Master of nun View Post
    Here's what I achieved today.

    After finding that the leveling of the base frame i did with my long builders level was out by a country mile, I started again with the dumpy level.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    This got my four corners within about 0.2mm over the 4.0m.

    Then I went throu the labourous task of the T nuts....hundreds of the little buggers
    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
    Inserted the rail into the extrusion and set up for the leveling process
    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
    After that was all in check I rotated the equipment through 90 Degrees for the staightening of the rail.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I repeated this for the leveling of the second rail.

    I'm happy that one rail is now with in 0.05mm over the entire 4.0m in two planes...whoo hoooo



    So does anyone have any suggestions about the second rail....should i Just attach the gantry an use it to straighten off the first?


    I'm attaching the gantry to the bearings via these plate to give me some side to side adjustment, which turns out was required.
    [IMG][/IMG]


    I couldn't help myself but get the gantry up there
    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]



    Liam




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    Quote Originally Posted by RomanLini View Post
    It might be a good idea to test the torque of that stepper motor, it's not too hard as you have anothe rmotor the same to do comparison testing.

    There's a simple procedure here; Measuring stepper motor torque.

    All you need to do is clamp the motor in a vice etc, then hang a weight off a lever on the shaft. I would suggest testing torque at all 4 fullstep (2-phase on) positions, that's easy as you can just connect the 2 winding in parallel and just use one adjustable DC supply.


    Thanks for the link, are you suggesting I just hook the wires from the stepper staight to a PS, no driver etc.?

    The steppers are 4.65V and 6.2 A, is thiswhat I should apply to them?
    the PS supplied with the steppers are 48V, 9 Amp peak
    Does it matter which way + - are applied? (i'm guesing not)



    Cheers Liam



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    diyengineer, Yes, all the machining processes for the BC head were done on the small mill/drill and the lathe beside it shown in the pics.
    For tooling I used a 4 jaw indexing table seen in the photos on the mill bed for positioning any circular bolt patterns, a verneir boreing head to bore the large hole in the 90 deg. housing, Misc end mills, internal and external micrometers for fitting the bearings.

    As for the Laser....I didn't use one!

    I used a self leveling (Dumpy) level shown on the tripod to get the each end of the machine within say, 0.5mm ( i can live with that much twist or out of level over 4.0m

    for the straightening of the rails between those four points ( in two planes) I used the Fishing braid/ optical sight method described earlier in post #9.

    Romanlini also describes the use of a laser to do te same shortly thereafter.


    I came across your re-build some time ago.....I have missed A LOT, 35 pages since starting in april, more time in the workshop and less time on the forum for you mister


    Kidding, A laser will serve you well, you are well ahead of the game the fact that it is a rebuild and the frame on which the rails sit must allready be halfway there.


    Cheers Liam.



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    Liam I am sure that is not what he is suggesting, but then I am not him. You have to have the drives since these are what recieves the signals from the computer for step count and direction. Unless you have those motors that have the drives built it.

    Mike

    ps the machine is looking real good. What is the overall clearance you will have to have to clear the z axis when at the top of the stroke.

    No greater love can a man have than this, that he give his life for a friend.


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    diyengineer, after checking out the rails on your machine and the way they have a machined step to sit against, it seems you are stressing out over.....allmost nothing.
    I'd say do what you doing with the machine level and a laser as a check for the rails, as for the you adjustable bearings, maybe attach a 90 deg. bracket like the ones used by machinist to the spindle carriage to enable you to level out the gantry longitudinaly... unless the is a machined surface somewhere else on the gantry.

    attach a dial indicator to the spindle carriage and adjust the bearings to level the gantry from left to right by sliding the spindle carriage from one side of the table to the other.

    with such a small gantry hight, the material you'll be cutting will conform to you table. As long as your spindle is perpendicular to the table and the gantry is parallel to the table in X and Y, any twist in the rails between oneanother may be of no real consequence to you.

    if you can get your hands on a dumpy level ( i prefer the cross hair type over ther laser levels) you can check the four corners and get them close before you start.

    Thanks for the compliments
    Cheers Liam.



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    Quote Originally Posted by turmite View Post
    Liam I am sure that is not what he is suggesting, but then I am not him. You have to have the drives since these are what recieves the signals from the computer for step count and direction. Unless you have those motors that have the drives built it.

    Mike

    ps the machine is looking real good. What is the overall clearance you will have to have to clear the z axis when at the top of the stroke.
    Hi Mike and Thanks, The overall height when Z is all the way up is about 3200mm and clears my shop lighting by 50mm.

    I guess we wait and see what Romanlini comes back with.....he know his stuff, check out his 'lil router build. impressive for someone like myself with very little idea when it comes to electricals.

    Liam.



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