How to cut Block of Fiberglass material ?


Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: How to cut Block of Fiberglass material ?

  1. #1
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Indonesia
    Posts
    234
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default How to cut Block of Fiberglass material ?

    I have 2 inch thick Fiberglass material and I wonder how to cut with best finishing ?
    I have a router CNC with up to 20000RPM spindle speed.

    my questions:
    1. what is the feedrate, cutdepth etc to cut the material and at what RPM ?
    2. should I use Metal bit cutter like 4 flute endmill ? or I should use the wood router bit to cut the fiberglas material ?
    3. how to findout the best cut depth/feedrate etc for fiberglass ? try and error ?

    thank you
    cal

    Similar Threads:


  2. #2
    Registered
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    339
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    What type of fiberglass are you going to cut? Does it have a name or number like G10. G10 is a vacumed, layered fiberglass that is very tough and needs a diamond edge cutter. So the type and density of fiberglass varies a great deal and all have their problems. Are you cutting all the way through? Fiberglass causes heat that will destroy your tooling so a low rpm and high feed rate are necessary and you have a good strong hold on the part or it can move



  3. #3
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Indonesia
    Posts
    234
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    diamond ? oh no ... cost me big deal.
    I have no idea what kind of fiberglass, but I will take a picture tomorrow and post it here.
    I think it's very hard fiberglass, it's a plywood size with 35mm thick.
    the color is greenish...

    I don't think the seller know what grade is... but it's very dry and hard.
    I though this can be cut much easier than alumunium ?

    so low RPM and deep cut.

    I'll post the picture later on

    trhanks
    cal



  4. #4
    Registered
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    339
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Sounds like the material here is G10. It's very Hard and light greenish in color. 35mm is about an inch and 3/8. The G10 that I cut was only 12mm thick. (about 1/2 inch) and I did it with a diamond bit. They are not that expensive. Onsrud Tool #67-254 $137.00 . This tool will only go 32mm deep so you will need a longer tool. The problem with this fiberglass is that it is vacumed layers of fiber and resin and it is dense. You have to turn it to powder it will not make chips. So I got the Diamond bit and it cuts like butter. Well, not really but it sure beats carbide or powderd steel Tooling. You can experiment like I did and get no where or just get the Diamond bit and you won't have the same problems I had. I ran this tool at 4000 RPM and 20 IPM feed at .25 deep on each pass. And it didn't get too hot and made powder of the material. Have a good system to take away the dust and do not breath it. Good luck....



  5. #5
    Gold Member High Seas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Malaysia/Australia/NZ/USA
    Posts
    1113
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Calico -
    You didn't mention the shape of the cuts you'll be making. I just finished cutting some G10. Because my cuts were simple - straight lines - straight through the G10, I used a tile wetsaw.

    I put a diamond 4 inch blade -on it - like the ones you can find for an angle grinder (Slotted/type -- like these - but lots cheaper http://compassdiamondblades.com/index.php?cPath=1_2). Worked great! The edges were Smooth As -- and no dust. The fiberglass dust/bits formed a paste like mess that was easy to clean up.

    Maybe that will help some - but it will depend on the shapes/product you are cutting. I suppose you might be able to adapt a water flush to a scroll saw too - but again it would only work on through cuts.

    Good Luck, and
    Jim

    Last edited by High Seas; 11-04-2008 at 09:15 AM. Reason: add ref to blade
    Experience is the BEST Teacher. Is that why it usually arrives in a shower of sparks, flash of light, loud bang, a cloud of smoke, AND -- a BILL to pay? You usually get it -- just after you need it.


  6. #6
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Indonesia
    Posts
    234
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    boots,
    thank yoiu for sharing youe experience...
    what do you meant by .25 deep ? is it in Inch ?
    I think it's G10


    see my attachmewnt photo of the 3dmodel i want to cut.
    it's 12cm wide, 7cm deep and 3,5cm high.
    I need apair /mirror to cut.

    high seas,
    maybe after I send the 3dmodel attached you can suggest me more exact tool I need.
    i wonder if this bit available on ebay ? wait ....nope no diamond bit available at ebay.

    is there another brand beside onsrud ?

    cal

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How to cut Block of Fiberglass material ?-bodyebonit-5-bottom-jpg  


  7. #7
    Gold Member High Seas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Malaysia/Australia/NZ/USA
    Posts
    1113
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Calico -
    I know you have the Block of Fiberglass - but looking at the model - I wouldn't mill that from a solid block. I guess the 3 pegs maybe support something? Or are used to position the rectangular cup for attachment? Either way there won't be much strength in the piece once machined to the shape of the model.

    If fiberglass is the preferred material for the product - I would make a mold and lay up the fiberglass. That way the pegs and cup could be reinforced and the fiberglass weave/pattern/grain could be better aligned with the forces you'd anticipate.

    If the product is ornamental (no strength required) - again I would make a mold and just cast it in resin/plastic.

    Best of Luck!
    Jim

    Experience is the BEST Teacher. Is that why it usually arrives in a shower of sparks, flash of light, loud bang, a cloud of smoke, AND -- a BILL to pay? You usually get it -- just after you need it.


  8. #8
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Indonesia
    Posts
    234
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Jim,
    here is the second top mirror part (attached).
    I don't really need strong Pegs, it's just for a protection for the Tubes amplifier.

    I've been thinking molding using fiberglass but that will take sometime since I have no expert on fiberglass.

    since I have CNC machine and I love CNC, maybe I just replace the material to Ebonite, (don't know what to called in english) it's a block material use for PCB.

    I thought I need stronger than ebonite.

    Now I'm curious about making the Mold for fiberglass.
    Jim .. if you have the tutorial/how to make this mold please please I love it, I might use Carbon Fiber caouse it looks cool !

    but I think making the mold is not easy, because this part is komplex for a mold to be make, specially for fiber. I hope I'm Wrong !
    what's the material for the mold? machinable Wax block ?

    Best regards
    Cal

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How to cut Block of Fiberglass material ?-earmax-ebon-5-jpg  


  9. #9
    Gold Member High Seas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Malaysia/Australia/NZ/USA
    Posts
    1113
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Calico -
    here are a couple of quick pointers on moldmaking for fiberglass projects:

    www.cstsales.com/tutorials/fiberglass_mold.pdf

    http://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/f...old_making.asp

    http://www.fibreglast.com/contentpag...enter-286.html

    BTW, if you don't need the stiffness and the high strength of Carbon Fiber - there is a Black Fiberglass - that looks as cool - but is 1/3 the cost. I got some very tight weave (satin finish) at: Fiberglasssite.com there are other places too.

    For the pegs/rails - I'd use rods Could be wood dowell - or fiberglass tent poles then maybe pull a sleeve/sock over them and then insert in pockets with some epoxy. Saaembly required - but easier than molding and/or milling them.
    SO; First I'd make a female mold mdf milled, seal it - shelac, then tooling gel coat it 3 times, then wax it - 3 to 5 times then spray PVA - let it dry, then start the layup with vacuum (bagging) assist.

    Sorry can't give more detail - traveling for the next few days - and gotta go catch a plane! Hope that is helpful - Looks like a neat project. Maybe you could make a thread of the entire build and its progress with pictures.
    Jim

    Experience is the BEST Teacher. Is that why it usually arrives in a shower of sparks, flash of light, loud bang, a cloud of smoke, AND -- a BILL to pay? You usually get it -- just after you need it.


  10. #10
    wbcomposites's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    1
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I wish you can learn more from https://www.wbcomposites.com/
    Their salespersons are professional with fiberglass knowledge.



Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

How to cut Block of Fiberglass material ?

How to cut Block of Fiberglass material ?

How to cut Block of Fiberglass material ?