Good luck with your build I ordered my 4x8 Pro last Monday. Did you purchase the Nema 24 or 34? Are you going to use a router or spindle?
I'm going to build a vacuum table for mine, what are you going to use for material hold down?
Enjoy
Gary
I'm making the switch from a Tormach/Sieg KX3 mill to a CNCRP 4x8 router. I've decided that the bigger table is a better fit for my requirements compared to the precision and hard metal handling capabilities of the mill. Looking forward to the build process - my mill was a Chinese mess that took a lot of time to sort out, so I think I'm up to the task!
Even thought I'm not sure about needing the size, I have room for a 4x8 and being able to put material on the router bed without trimming it down has a lot of appeal.
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Good luck with your build I ordered my 4x8 Pro last Monday. Did you purchase the Nema 24 or 34? Are you going to use a router or spindle?
I'm going to build a vacuum table for mine, what are you going to use for material hold down?
Enjoy
Gary
Sounds great, I ordered the Nema 34 plug & play unit with CNCRP Sindle as well. I'll be doing a lot of sheet stock (aluminum, wood, pvc & acrylic)so I think a vacuum table will work best for us.
I ordered 4 of the 122178-18 from centralvacuummotor.com that dgage recommended. My issue now is finding a product to use as a plenum. I know I can use MDF but I hear it is a hassle to sell with epoxy, or I could use phenolic but I was quoted $780 for a 4x8 sheet of 3/4"...ugh now I'm learning towards using 3/4" or 1" Versatex PVC. I was told on another forum it will work but I'm waiting on a call back from the Versatex engineer. If it would down for 5 minutes here, I'd design my vacuum & plenum. Im planning on 4 2'x4' zones that I'll be able to turn on each motor & zone individually & I'd like to place T-Slots between the zones just for a alternative to the vacuum table.
Plus i'm still 7 weeks out of mine being shipped
Gary
I should have (most) of mine coming sometime this week. I'm doing some product development work for a company right now, really looking forward to having the opportunity to do my own prototyping (they have an industrial grade 5x10 with ATC, etc).
That sounds very interesting, I used to do a lot of that for Gerber Scientific (vinyl cutters & digital printers) back when they were actually coming out with new machines. I'm still on CadLink's Beta team to test their Signlab product.
Thanks & good luck keep posting updates about your build.
Day 1 of the build is finished. Everything has gone together pretty well.
Has anyone else had parts issues with CNCRP kits? One of the bolts was the wrong size, and one of the double t-nuts had only one of the two holes tapped. Not huge deals, but the whole point of buying the kit is not to have to modify stuff to make it work.
Call them and they should get you the right parts quickly.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Looks good. Did you print the instruction manual or are you just using a tablet & going through it that way?
I'm excited I received an email that my router has been partially shipped.
I already fixed the problems, cut the bolt down to size with a cutoff wheel and tapped the hole that didn't have threads. I have the tools to do that sort of stuff, but not everyone who buys one of their kits might (especially if they are buying mainly for woodworking). I let them know because it is an issue that they should attend to.
It's been a while since my last update - was waiting on the z-axis to ship. Ultimately received that and finished the assembly yesterday. Today I put in the power drop - had been waiting to see exactly where things lined up. I wanted to do a straight drop from the ceiling.
One really weird thing I found was that the 220v plug had not been wired correctly. I've standardized on the 30A twist-lock connectors so noticed when I was switching over from the 20A to the 30A.
The 220 plug from CNC Router Parts wasn't wired correctly? What was wrong so I can check mine. Your machine looks good.
How far away from the table do you think you could mount the control & VFD cabinets? I'd like to mount mine on the back wall of my shop so I can mount my vacuum table controls on the side
so the end can be left open for storage.
Post when you get it set up & running.
Thanks in advance
How do you wire a 220V plug incorrectly? There are only two interchangeable hot legs.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
yeah you would think so, right? What happened was the wire was inserted and then the post was torqued counter clockwise, so that instead of the wires being clamped between two conductors, they were pressed out against the housing.
Really weird, never would have found it except I run all 30A connectors so was changing over. When I tried to unscrew the lug it was still connected, so had to "tighten" it (turn the lug screws clockwise) to get them to release.
The cable are pretty long - and there isn't a lot of magic to them. I didn't extend any of the motor controls, but for the limit switches I just cut the cable and spliced in some more where needed. I ordered some 1x2 conduit and 3/4 split loom that I'm going to use to tidy things up a bit. It's a well made kit that I have been quite pleased with. I'm just calling out the few issues I've experienced so that anyone expecting it to be pure "plug and play" has the right expectations. If I didn't already have a metric thread tap and die set I might not be as happy...
Other than the tools they recommend, I found a caliper and my Bosch laser distance measure be very useful.
It's been a couple of weeks since I last updated my build - work and life have slowed me down a bit, but I've made some good progress.
I'm pleased with the way my power connection worked out. I wanted 4 sided access to the router, and was not willing to have a power cable as a trip hazard in the aisleways. So I had to drop it from the ceiling - which also gave a great place to mount the e-stop.
Because it is a kit, CNCRP leaves certain choices up to the purchaser. To that end, I've been working on
1. Dust collection
2. Cable Management, and
3. Sensor guards
For dust collection, I ran 4" rigid drain pipe (Lowe's) from my harbor fright dust collector (unmodified at this point), up and over the table and then dropped down with flex cable to another piece of drain pipe attached to the z-axis. For the dust shoe I used the $36 "Double Door Spindle Dust Shoe Cover Cleaner for CNC Router Engraving Milling Machine (80mm)" from amazon.com.
Last edited by pugsly; 08-30-2018 at 07:38 PM.
Cable Management - I don't like having unprotected cables, I'm much happier if they are either in a cableway or protected by split loom. I bought 100' of 3/4 split loom from amazon, along with 25' of 2150 cableway off of amazon for $95, and also got the z-axis kit from CNCRP.
Here's the z-axis -
The back side of the gantry...
And a good example of using split loom and cableway for the run to the y-axis max limit switch.
And then here's where the whole mess comes together!