- New build help
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Member
New build help
Im just finishing the steel frame of a 3030cm fixed gantry router that will be used for milling AL and various plastics using a ISO20 high speed spindle. Its to replace a 6040 Chinese/AL based router. The frame is mostly built using 1/4" wall steel. Currently AL linear stages are being used, but these will be replaced w rails mounted on ground steel plate in the near future.
My question is, Im using jack screws on the XY stages to tram them respectively. Once trammed the I plan on using steel epoxy fill the mating gaps. Ive heard of two methods.
1, tram the stages, keep the jack screws fixed, remove the stages and slather epoxy on both faces, replace the stages to sandwich the epoxy.
2,tram the stages, keep the stages in place and inject epoxy through a port.
I would thin option 2 would be the best, but have no Idea. I also dont know if with either of these option if its ok to use release agent on both mating surfaces. Again I hope to replace the AL stages w steel plate stages.
Thanks for any insights
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Re: New build help
I wound up injecting jb cold weld using a 3ml syringe thu a 9/64" hole drilled in the center of the mating area. I also put a lot of plumbers putty around the bolts to prevent the jb weld migrating in through the bolt holes. I also used mold release on both surfaces. In all it worked pretty good. If I were to do it again I would have used a lot less plumber putty around the bolts as I would have prefered the jb weld would have gotten closer to the bolts.
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Re: New build help
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Re: New build help
Originally Posted by
peteeng
Well done Wayne- Peter
Thanks Peter, I torq'd down the bolts this evening and the tram held true
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Member
Re: New build help
Hi Wayne - tell us more about the ISO20 spindle I'm interested in this for a small Mill... Peter
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Re: New build help
Jianken actually responded? They must be desperate, usually they don't respond. How did you contact them, through the website or alibaba?
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Re: New build help
Hey Wayne,
Do you have some pictures of the spindle?
My major gripe with these Chinese spindles is always the very poor electrical wiring. Thin wires, no shield, no safety ground wire...
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Re: New build help
@Ardenum, They responded to my Alibaba order. It took about a week, but it was in the middle of Chinese NY. This is my first exp w Jainken so cant comment otherwise. Ive bought several $5k-10k machines from China for my business, mostly pick and place machines. In dealing w the Chinese I found them to be very helpful and responsive to a point, depending on where you are in a transaction. If you show intent to buy by asking item specific questions they will respond. Once you purchase they have always been responsive. That's just been my experience...
@Jackjr see attached pics.
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Re: New build help
Interesting ATC performance, see the videos below. I plumbed the ATC in situ to make sure it worked before wiring it in to the control board. It works as outlined by Jainken with no spindle binding, so good enough. I then scoped the 'clamp' and 'release' sensors and they work as they should, so good enough. Just for giggles I though Id disconnect the 'Air Return' to see if the spindle would bind, it didnt... Spins just as freely with the return disconnected. I thought on it a bit and realized it must be that I just disconnected the line and it vented to atmosphere so I sealed it at the spindle port. I repeated the test and still no binding or spindle drag. Why? The only thing I can think is that the videos where I have seen spindle binding for a period after a tool change is their air pressure is too high? Did I just get a magical, zero drag spindle?
Scoped with 'Air Return' plumbed properly
Scoped with 'Air Return' sealed at spindle and solenoid
Solenoid setup/trigger
Spinning the spindle by hand
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Re: New build help
Thanks for the pics.
My understanding is that the cylinder is spring-loaded and not a true double acting cylinder. Thus the "air return" is more like a safety to ensure the cylinder is fully retracted.
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Re: New build help
@Jack, thanks, that makes sense. I got a better look at the wire loom, the VFD power connector is a foil shield w .75mm or 20guage. Ive read 18-16guage is min for 2.2kw, so not the best. Its just a pigtail that I have to splice for now into 16awg to get everything together. The PNP clamp and release leads are full length but super thin. I plan running those 24v to help w noise. The thermistor wire look like a typical thermistor wire, but I don't plan to use. The proof in the pudding will be when I get everything running and cutting.
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Member
Re: New build help
If you care about best practice I would use a Weipu SF1611 connector for the spindle power, for proper shield continuation (assuming they actually used a proper EMI cable gland). The shield must be terminated at both ends to be effective.
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Re: New build help
Thanks. The gland at the spindle is metal but a pass thru type. The conductors, shield included, pass thru the gland and spindle top plate. I am unsure if the foil shield is terminated to the interior spindle body. Ill ohm it out tonight. I need a new DMM battery.
- New build help
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