Need help, building CNC machine for steel and wood

[s_gabi_y]

First of all, I am completely novice and would be happy to help.

A few words about planning, if there is anything I did not write please ask.

The X-axis sits on a steel frame Length 145 cm on Width of CM 130.



Linear rails on both sides and screw in the middle
2pc HB30-1450 rails with 2 HBH30CA
ballscrew SFU2510-1450mm
Nema 42 stepper motors 110BYGH201-001 8A 30N-m (4200oz-in)
Driver Stepper MOTOR DQ2722M 220V AC is powered

The Y axis sits on aluminum supports, and the axis itself sits on a ready-made aluminum plate
Something like that
2pc HB20-1000 rails with 2 HBH20CA
ballscrew SFU1610-1000mm
Nema34 stepping motor (34HS15660) 12.0 N.m 6.0A
Stepper motor drives the DM860H

The Z-axis sits on a ready-made aluminum plate like the Y-axis at 50CM Same rails and motors as Y axis

As for the spindle, I really have no idea which one I need, some of what I asked suggested I take it.2.2kw water cooled spindle kit CNC
This spindle

Also about machine control I don't have much idea
I played a bit with Mach 3 so I thought about this cardMach 3 CNC Control Card 3axis XHC MK4 CNC
This card

Am I missing something? Is something wrong?
The X axis is already ready, what I need to prepare right now is the Y axis and Z axis where you can change what you want,
as well as the spindle I have not yet purchased and also the card. I would be very happy for any help on this

Similar Threads:

• New Machine Build- Building Steel Frame Gantry Router for wood, MDF, and maybe more
• Newbie- Building 4 axis CNC Router (wood)
• New Machine Build- Building new Router for Alu and Wood work
• Stainless steel suitable for building CNC machine?

[awerby]

I'm looking at your picture and trying to figure out what's going on. It looks like you've got two frames mounted vertically, quite close together, that each have a narrow stage which moves up and down. Is that correct, or should the picture be turned sideways? Are you planning to span those two stages with another axis? Do you have a drawing of the whole machine you're envisioning? That would really be helpful if anyone's going to offer meaningful advice.

In general, though, you should decide if you're making a machine for wood or steel. While similar in their functionality, these machines are actually quite different, with the former being much easier to pull off. That spindle, for instance, is okay for wood, but much too fast for anything but engraving on steel. And the structure would need to be much more massive to effectively mill steel. Wood machines need dust extraction, but steel machines need flood cooling; these things aren't really compatible.

It looks like you chose those motors for the highest holding torque possible, without considering the voltage required to make them run with any speed. At 16 mH, the inductance means that you'd need to supply 128v DC power to run them optimally, but your drives max out at 80v. If you haven't bought all these electrical components yet, I'd suggest you hold off until you decide what you're really trying to build, and have the frame constructed - things can change in the middle of a build, especially if you're learning as you go.

[s_gabi_y]

The picture shows two X-axes
That's the only part that's ready, I use only one of them.
Can't do both metal and wood?

The problem with the machine structure?
Or just have to replace Spindle?

The general structure of the machine should be something like that


Except for the X axis parts, I haven't purchased anything yet.

[peteeng]

Hi SGY - The pictured router is unlikely to cut steel effectively. The gantry is not stiff enough, the twin beams need to be connected to make them more efficient and the router will be too fast. Depending on the linear bearings quality the gantry and columns will vibrate. But for wood it will do this material easily. Peter

[MrScott]

Hi, just starting myself. However what I can tell you:

1A. Wood routers are going to put out a *lot* of sawdust. It will get into everything, including the linear rails, ball screws, etc. unless you handle it. If it gets wet, you will have mold and mildew problems.

If wood gets oily, it gets stained and difficult or impossible to apply a finish.

Sawdust will stick to oil and grease.

1B. A mill for steel is best with mist or flood cooling, at least cutting fluid, and will be oily and/or greasy. Flood cooling requires capturing and recycling the coolant with a pump and filter. Now imagine that pump and plumbing full of wet sawdust.

2A. Wood routing uses e.g. a 24,000RPM router, at relatively low torque.

2B. Steel milling and drilling requires closer to 50..2000 RPM (higher range with carbide tooling, slower if you ever need to use HSS) and MUCH higher torque.

Higher speeds for aluminum.

I will suggest looking at some mill cutters and doing the calculations for the desired operating speeds for the specified SFM (Surface Feet per Minute) or metric equivalent. That will tell you what speed range you want.

Also look at an existing milling machine that does what you want, or its manual, to get a sense of how heavily it is built and the speed range and spindle motor power.

3A. Wood workpieces are commonly up to 48" x 96" sheets or perhaps logs.

3B. Steel workpieces are usually up to several inches on a side, except for sheet metal and shafts which may be a few feet in one or two dimensions.

I recommend separate machines.