Hey john do you by chance know what the bios settings should be for the 2nd printer port pci card ? there are choices ecp/epp and another one I dont know off hand? what should the 2nd priner port card be set to in this setting? I ask because I think there is a problem with either windows and the drivers or the card it self and the reason is I set all my settings and the selector switch works but when I turn off the computer and turn it back on it does not work I have to go back and forth resetting the settings and I think it is the computer resetting itself do you have nay ideas?
where did you take the 5V supply from ?
One possibility is they have used the wires in an unusual way and not made
the black wire 0V and red wire +5V
In a ready made cable all that matters is the wires connect the correct terminals at each end and not the colour of the wires
the red & black wire should go to the outer two terminals
Another possibility is the USB port is limiting the available current wit no connection to the data terminals - if I remember correctly phone charger cables have a 100 ohm resistor connecting the data terminals
I would expect the encoder to take enough current to be a problem
but I'll have a look for some data sheets to see what the typical current they take
john
I have tried 2 different usb cables 1 was from a usb plug that went from the usb plug to a phone usb plug ,I cut the phone end off and spliced into that ...plugging the other end into the back of the pc...the 2nd cable was a wall phone charger that plugs into a typical wall plug ,I cut the phone charging port off the end and spliced into that and plugged the other end into the wall (120 plug) . Both ways in the end only have me 3 volts . I battled with the printer port card parameters last night and I'm not having much luck there either , I set mach3 to the right settings and no response from the mpg then I change the hex address to the printer port 2 ( because it has 3 different addresses) to a different address until 1 of the 3 listed works . I got to that point last night before I gave up for the night , so i think I'm gonna buy a different pci card other than star tech it is a standard pci parallel port card but maybe a different brand ...do you think changing the slot the card is plugged into would change anything for the better
After reading various posts about problems with printer port cards
from what I can tell the results depend on the chip set used
a few chipsets referred to in adverts
MCS9901CV Chipset
MCS9865 Moschip Chipset
Netmos 9865 Chipset
WCH382
unfortunately I don't have a definitive answer as to which adaptor works
I have just plugged a USB cable into the PC I'm using and measure 5.1V with no load
as its 1:23 AM I'll log off and try in the morning with a 1/2A and 1 amp load
John
At best on the the 300DC range the reading will be plus or minus 1V , possibly plus or minus 2V
so its not going to be easy to read the 5V supply with any certainty
On the other hand your meter is ideal for working on the mains electrical supply
no current range you can short circuit the mains supply with the test probes
you just need to remember not to have it on a resistance range on a live circuit
For your low voltage test like the USB supply a multimeter like this would be better
on the 20V range you measure to 2 decimal places
off load I would expect you to measure 5.1V
and a minimum of 4.75 V with a half amp load on a USB port
John
Last edited by john-100; 12-19-2019 at 05:53 AM. Reason: add ref to expected USB port output voltage
A meter with only a 300V DC range can certainly explain reading 4V
as 4.99V will read 4V on the 300V range
add a plus or minus one digit tolerance and the 5V can easily be displayed as 3V on the 300V range
on a meter with a 20.0 or 30.0V range you will see the 4.99V as 4.9V
probably alternating between 5.0 and 4.9 as its so close to 5V
John
OK
powering a new rotary encoder from 4.94V
when the outputs are not connected to any load
stationary I have
0.11V between 0V and A
0.12V between 0V and B
3.7V between 0V and A-
3.7V between 0V and B-
while rotating
approx 2.2V between 0V and A
approx 2.2V between 0V and B
approx 1.6V between 0V and A-
approx 1.6V between 0V and B-
John
PS
the current taken from the 5V supply by the rotary encoder is 0.1A with no load on the outputs
Last edited by john-100; 12-21-2019 at 11:13 AM. Reason: add PS - current taken by rotary encoder
It does look like your encoder is not working
what current does your encoder take from the 5V supply ?
John
PS
looking for a datasheet for a rotary encoder
I found this -
https://rhonmac-cnc.co.uk/rotary_encoder_data_sheet.htm
PPS
what do you measure between 0V and A- or 0V and B- ?
Last edited by john-100; 12-21-2019 at 12:46 PM. Reason: add PPS
the 5V from two USB ports can power the rotary encoder and second BOB in post 23
you can only connect the A & B outputs to 2 of the 5 inputs ( pins 10 to 13 + 15)
To connect the rotary encoder to the tonsen bob
power the encoder from 5V from the USB port and the tonsen BOB from 24V -
its onboard regulators will drop the 24V supply down to 5V - don't see an easy way to take 5V from the BOB
you can only connect the A & B outputs to 2 of the 5 inputs ( pins 10 to 13 + 15)
( a C10 BOB has the option to set pins 2 to 9 as inputs as an alternative
to the C22 pendant interface )
John