Replace Internal PRT-E1500W With External - Can It Be Done?

[TaffyCarl]

Sterob gave you the correct/good advise....

I'd do it if I knew what the hell he was talking about LOL - yes I have a multimeter, I use it to check bike batteries that's about the extent of it. Start talking Ohms or "3 phases on the spindle" you've lost me.

[Sterob]

Maybe try to find an electrical friend to help you test it.
They are easy tests and they will rule your spindle in or out as a electrical problem.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[ericks]

It's not difficult to do these tests....they should be done before you even power up for the first time

[ericks]

Have you made any progress??

[TaffyCarl]

Yeh, tripped the house safety switch!!
Watched youtube videos on how to test with a multimeter, I know the meter works so may be the spindle needs to go to an electrician for testing. I ended up buying a new set up, just waiting on its arrival as I've probably killed this one and the cost of a new 1.5 - 2.2Kw W/C spindle and yet another 'supposed' decent VFD is not that far off the cost of a complete system - oh well I end up with a lot of spares and maybe a 6040 frame I can flog off.

[Sterob]

What results did you get when you tested the Spindle?
Is your Multimeter analog or digital?
Where are you located?

[ericks]

Let me give you a tip....next time before you power up the drive with the motor, test first. You are able with one test to test the connections, cable and motor. If you need to know how then i will be happy to guide you through it

[TaffyCarl]

What results did you get when you tested the Spindle?
Is your Multimeter analog or digital?
Where are you located?

I'll have to go out and find the scrap of paper - can't remember off the top of my head.
Digital
Out Western Sydney way

[TaffyCarl]

Let me give you a tip....next time before you power up the drive with the motor, test first. You are able with one test to test the connections, cable and motor. If you need to know how then i will be happy to guide you through it

Oh I need to know that test the new set up should be here tomorrow so the more I know before setting up the better, it's starting to become an expensive hobby - should have stuck with the 3040 that ran without issue for years.

[Gene1934]

Short answer is yes.
Long answer is with reservations so far.
First, this part/model refers only to the vfd, not the steppers and its totally inadequate psu (which is mounted under the vfd.) I scrapped all that out and replaced it with a box I already had with a bob, a 28volt 15 amp supply. Using linuxcnc on a wintel board, a Mesa 5i25 superport board driving a Mesa 7i76D breakout, which gives 4 stepper channels, 16 outputs and 32 inputs, the first 4 of which can do limited A/D. Limited because its only 8 bit resolution, there's no range adjustment and full scale is 35 or so volts.

Then I decided to replace the PRT-E1500W with an external invertor because the PRT ran the motor in random directions. Changing its mind every 3 or 4 days.

Now to get down to the meat of the problem, the 32 page booklet that came with a YL620A VFD is very poorly translated,

However its accurate in that transferring control from the panel to external controls is done in pieces. Start-srop is in register P00.01, make it=1 and set. To move the speed control to an external 0-10 volt signal fed into VI1, you must set P07.8 to P07.15 from 2 to 3.
This YL620A has separate GND's for the VI1, and XGND for the equ of external switches as shown on page 7. So for speed, feed the 10 volts to the high side (spindle+) on the 7i76D, the GND to the spindle- on the 7i76D, and VI1 to spindle speed all on tb4 of the 7i76D. These are all isolated.

The 7i76D also has isolated optical switches for enable + and -, and reverse + and -. Connect both - terminals to XGND, the enable + to FWD on the YL-620-A, and the reverse + to the REV terminal of the YL-620-A. In this manner you are duplicating the switching to ground depicted on page 7. Set P00.01 to 1 to enable the external start-stop. These signals must be continuous else it stops when they go back to open, as indicated by seeing about 16 volts on either FWD or REV when they are off. Setting, or making sure that P01.00 is zero should enable a reverse run, but hasn't worked here yet. Nor do I have P00.12 which is the VF curve, that I would translate to low frequency boost tried at other than the default 0, so that's todays experiment. Can be set up to as high as 4. As is, its so weak at lower speeds it slowly coasts to a stop at 63Hz out.

So that's where I am with this inverter. I can start it, stop it and control its speed from linuxcnc, but not reverse it. And a hack-a-day style tool changer will need to reverse it.

Anybody else that can expand on this, please do so.

Cheers & take care all, Gene.

[Gene1934]

Got that sorted, turned out that it was running backwards from its own panel too, so I reversed 2 motor leads. So its now running the desired direction. Whats left? A severe instability is speed when less than 8000 is requested, the pid in the controller is going berzerk at no load. Since I've not been able to make the internal output ammeter respond, I've hung a Greenlee Amprobe on one of the motors wires, and see a fairly consistent 3.6 amps when its running steady at any speed it will run steady. But it doesn't rise with a drop in requested speed, fading badly below about 8 grand. So there are still 2 problems. No low frequency boost, and apparently a non magnetized rotor in this cheap motor, its a pure 3 phase induction motor. ATM its running at requested 8 grand but probably closer to 7000, the slip angle is horrible. But its running to see how fast the coolant warms up, about 1C is 40 minutes so I am NOT worried about that at no load conditions. I note it gets a current bang at startup, but that fades in a second or two. The only thing thats helped the low speed torque is turning down the mains frequency, defaults to 400hz on error, and is currently at 50 hz as shown in the booklet for a default. but at 8000 the hertz should be showing 100, but it knows the slip and is horrible so its sending 128 hertz to the motor. That is a whole boat load of slip and should be a lot of heat. I've lcd thermometers on both tank and motor. They've gone up about 2C in 40 minutes, so the cooling would appear to be adequate.

Stay tuned folks, this camper is not a happy one.

I suppose the next thing is to setup an ATS-667 hal effect switch to watch the wrench flats and measure the rpm with it. What a PITA this is turning out to be.

Progress, but no ribbons l yet.

Take care all.

Cheers, Gene

[etiennebertrand]

You can see here :
https://imaginierie.com/impression-3...brication-cnc/

[etiennebertrand]

You can find a complete manual with parameters settings there:
https://imaginierie.com/2-different-...manufacturing/