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Hi i recently had an EOCA or Error over current on my VFD, did a whole bunch of debugging and decided it was the spindle that was dead. So I ordered a new one and took apart the old one.
what i found was quite interesting, the coils had cooked themselves, and there was rust over the insides. i really wanted to see the water jacket design so i decided to cut it in half with an angle grinder.
this model has 3 bearings, 2 as the collet end and one at the back. the back one isn't shown because it exploded all over the kitchen floor when i was taking it apart.
the most likely failure point seems to be the 2 O rings that join the back cap to the spindle body, i think mine leaked from there.
there is also no way to get inside the water channels to clean, so make sure you don't get a blockage in the water jacket.
I was unable to separate the coils from the water jacket and i don't have a press so im unable to test further.
anyway just figured I'd share.
Raptor
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Interesting. Thanks for posting these.
Gerry
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It got rusty from when it was smoked, it is quite corrosive when they burn up like this
Number one you failed to have the correct Parameters set,
Your wiring was not correct also, you have to add a Ground wire to most of these spindles. this is the first thing to always check
This is what you have to do with most of these spindles before you Power them up
You must run an anti-corrosion fluid just as you would for your car
Mactec54
thanks, the new one has the ground wire and im running car coolant instead of just water this time.
this was a machine that i purchased used and was working so there are a few bugs to get out. what parameters do you feel i have set wrong? i'd prefer to not fry the new one.
What is the VFD Drive specs and the spindle motor spec's, I know you have a 2.2Kw spindle and the Huanyang VFD but need the full spec's to give you the correct Parameters, most of these spindles are the same spec's the differences being mostly what speed they are rated for
Mactec54
i have a Huanyang VFD 110v 2.2kw HY02D211B-T
that but 110v
https://www.amazon.com/Variable-Freq...08466211&psc=1
The spindle is a GDZ-80-2.2A 2.2kw 400hz 220v 24,000 rpm 2 pole spindle
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i think ive set it up as per the manufactures recommendation, and it ran for several years before dying, but im new to this
The manufactures don't have any recommended settings, because every VFD Drive is different, some basic setting don't change though
You need to have a big 120v supply the current draw on the 120v supply would need to be around 35Amps to 40 Amps to be able to get 2.2Kw I never recommend above a 1.5Kw spindle when using 120v supply, you did the right thing in getting the 220v spindle I will post the Parameters you need
Your supply power is the important part to make this a success, the wiring will over heat with the current draw if it is not sized correct
Mactec54
It’s not really 2.2kw. I’ve seen mine stall at ~8 amps.
Generally uses around 3.5a up to around 5a or so when you really load it up.
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That's because your supply can't supply enough current to the VFD to drive for the oversized spindle
23amps is if you had a 240v supply to a 240v VFD Drive for the same 2.2Kw spindle, the snip below is from the VFD Drive manual note 2.2Kw @220v is 23A input current needed
For 120v supply to do the same job you would have to double that to run the same 2.2Kw spindle, this is why they fail you should not be buying the 2.2Kw spindles for 120v supply, at max of 1.5Kw spindle to run of the same VFD Drive and it would work much better than a 2.2Kw ever will
Mactec54
I realize this is and old post and topic but I have some new information about the cheaper brand Chinese spindles that might be of interest to any one deciding to buy one. I have one of the GDZ-80-1.5 spindles.
Initially I ran it with the tub and aquarium pump that was supplied with the machine and it seemed to be fine. I got creative and built a closed loop cooling system with a small radiator with fan and pump with reservoir.
Filled up the pump reservoir with corrosion inhibiting coolant and all seemed to be good. After a day of not using the machine I turned on the cooling system only to find some of the coolant disappeared. Checked for leaks, No leaks. OK maybe the radiator had a bit of air trapped in it. Topped up the tank and used the motor for a few hours. Level didn't drop. Great I thought. Next day started the pump, same thing. Coolant was missing. Next day even more coolant. I was now missing half a tank of coolant. After searching the Net I came across this post and the reason for the missing coolant was now obvious. The aluminum heat exchanger has no o-rings to prevent water escaping into the motor body. After having a long discussion with another motor manufacturer I found out they don't fit o-rings. Instead they use glue. (Good luck with that.) Apparently all the cheaper brand spindle motors don't have o-ring seals on the heat exchanger. If you don't use a closed loop cooling system you may never notice a drop in water level and when your motor fails may just think it's a poor quality motor. Most likely the reason it failed was from water getting into the windings. An alternative would be to use a very light oil for the cooling medium. Something I will try when I eventually replace this motor.
If you where loosing that much coolant you would be able to see it leaking, they can not leak into the windings from the outer jacket, the only place they can leak into the windings is if the top caps 2 Orings are not correctly installed
So if you have a leak from the outer jacket you would be able to see it easy so the water leaking if any is not the cause usually of the motors being smoked
So you should take the top off the motor and check the Orings if they don't have enough compression to make the seal they will leak if your closed system pressure is to high also this will cause leaks
Mactec54
@Mactec54
The only pressure in my system is that of returning the fluid to the reservoir which would be very low. I have a vent in the top of the reservoir to release any built up pressure that may be caused by warming fluid etc.
My curiosity got the better of me so I decided to pull the motor apart just to see if my suspicion was correct. The motor was completely dry with no sign of coolant anywhere. Where does that much coolant go in a closed loop system? Mactec54 you are correct, there is no seal between the internal motor cavity and bearing retainer flanges so if there was 200ml of fluid in there it surely would have been noticeable after some 6 months. I am stumped with this one. There are no puddles of fluid anywhere. I guess I should just keep topping up the fluid until it stops disappearing. Funny how after seeing pictures posted by Raptor_Demon, I thought I had it in the bag. Just goes to show, you never really know until you pull it apart.
That damaged spindle was not from water damage, when the varnish / insolation burns off like that everything rusts inside so it appears that it was caused by water but that is not the case
Yours loss is probably from evaporation through the vent, I loose 2 Gallons and up to 5 Gallons of coolant from just one machining center a week, evaporation is usually the cause if you have no leaks
Mactec54
@dazp1976
I am in the electronics business and do now that burnt varnish and burnt PVC can cause a lot of corrosive chemicals to be produced. So yes that does explain the rust / corrosion. After evaluating the build of the motor having stripped it down it's very unlikely any fluid would leak and not be noticed dripping out of the tool end of the motor. Have attached a picture of my cooling setup so that you can see that evaporation is impossible. It may be that some of the cooling channels in the radiator never filled properly and that is where the coolant was going. Now that I know the motor is safe and good I will just keep topping up until the losses stop. (Surely they must stop Ha Ha) Thanks for your input. Hopefully the attachment works. Have not tried doing one before today.
Cheers To all.
Probably just air caught in radiator, then shifts when you turn pump off.
I'm in agreement, but if you want to be sure and your radiator doesn't naturally burp well, then cycle your pump over and over until it's fully burped, per typical process for burping a car system after a total drain and refill. Adding vibration (like machining) will help, or even a low amplitude shaker motor.
You should make sure, unlikely though I expect it to be, that you don't have any air capture points like high points in hoses and such.
Once you eliminate the possibility of a gassy system, then you can start sniffing around again if you still lose fluid. I think we're all interested in what you find!