OmioCNC report

[Mmpie]

So I'm running it at 1366 x 768 (max for that monitor).

And it looks like this




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[NickB00]

Yeah in that photo it was not maximised, but other photos where it is maximised, it still show poor quality writing with over and undersized fonts and broken up words on various screens.

I may be wrong, but it appears you may have your windows mixed up ( I've done this....)

I still don't think your Window is Maximised.

[NickB00]

So do you use the tool presetter to zero your tool at the top of the workpiece or just touch the workpiece with the cutting tool without the presetter?
When I have tried to use the presetter say at a toolchange, the new tool runs high over the workpiece and does not touch it. Do I have to subtract the height of the presetter?
I thought that would have been done by Mach 3 as the presetter height has been set by me where it says H. Also Mach 3 wont accept a value for H unless I have given it a Tool # above.
As you say, if the top of the piece has been machined down (as it happened for me) and you need to change a tool, then how do you actually do a G31 command?
many thanks..
Nick

Tool presetter - I tend to set zero on the top of my workpiece (stock) so I know, scanning through G-code, that any moves with a positive Z are safe and any negatives are under the safe retract plane.

Every tool change I pop the tool setter on top of my material and run the auto set cycle to re-zero the tip.

If I can't do it that way, say because I've put the workpiece in a vice and removed all of the z=0 surface in a previous operation, I've hopefully realised this would happen ahead of time and instead zero off the bed on the first tool, then run a G31 down to the top of the workpiece. Take the difference and subtract the tool setter height and I now know how high my Z=0 plane is off the deck. Then I set any tool changes on the deck, and subtract that height after the autoset to get my tool position relative to the top. Lots of words make it sound harder than it is.

[Mmpie]

So do you use the tool presetter to zero your tool at the top of the workpiece or just touch the workpiece with the cutting tool without the presetter?
When I have tried to use the presetter say at a toolchange, the new tool runs high over the workpiece and does not touch it. Do I have to subtract the height of the presetter?
I thought that would have been done by Mach 3 as the presetter height has been set by me where it says H. Also Mach 3 wont accept a value for H unless I have given it a Tool # above.
As you say, if the top of the piece has been machined down (as it happened for me) and you need to change a tool, then how do you actually do a G31 command?
many thanks..
Nick

Nick, you don't enter the height in the tool offset table. Leave that alone, you do not need it with these ER taper spindles.

You set the height of the tool setter in the offsets page, from memory I think it's the gauge block bit.


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[dharmic]

What Mmpie says. There are different approaches you can use, but using the tool length offset in the tool table is more for bigger machines with tool holders (eg BT30 etc) where you set up and measure, accurately, the tool in the holder and leave it there. In that environment you'd probably not even use the dinky tool probe that we have, you'd use a proper tool setter with a dial on it to accurately dial things in.

For us, every time the tool changes, we just set the workspace Z offset to zero it in wherever it needs to be. Yes you need to set the "gauge height" so that after the auto-set macro runs it subtracts the height of the gauge. I think by default the macro zips up 10mm from wherever it zeros, so check the Z workspace coordinate in the DROs at the end of the auto set cycle. For example, my tool probe is 19.24mm high. So every time I run the auto-set, it finishes at Z=29.24mm.

[NickB00]

Just had a look and there are 2 places on the Offsets Page showing the Guage Block height, top left and bottom right.
Do you fill them both out or is the 2nd one for a toolchange?
cheers..

Nick, you don't enter the height in the tool offset table. Leave that alone, you do not need it with these ER taper spindles.

You set the height of the tool setter in the offsets page, from memory I think it's the gauge block bit.


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[NickB00]

OK so dont use the tool table on the main screen, set it up in the offsets page and it will subtract the tool setter height.
The Z axis then goes up to presetter height + 10mm, so do you have to zero the Z at this time on the DRO?
I am going to have a play with this today but it is so cold in the garage...also I 3D printed a dust shoe which I need to check-fit..
thanks.

What Mmpie says. There are different approaches you can use, but using the tool length offset in the tool table is more for bigger machines with tool holders (eg BT30 etc) where you set up and measure, accurately, the tool in the holder and leave it there. In that environment you'd probably not even use the dinky tool probe that we have, you'd use a proper tool setter with a dial on it to accurately dial things in.

For us, every time the tool changes, we just set the workspace Z offset to zero it in wherever it needs to be. Yes you need to set the "gauge height" so that after the auto-set macro runs it subtracts the height of the gauge. I think by default the macro zips up 10mm from wherever it zeros, so check the Z workspace coordinate in the DROs at the end of the auto set cycle. For example, my tool probe is 19.24mm high. So every time I run the auto-set, it finishes at Z=29.24mm.

[dharmic]

If you look through the code of the macro, it's basically doing a bunch of housekeeping around a couple of key steps:

1. A slow G31 move to negative Z. G31 stops when the probe/digitise input is activated.
2. Set the Z coordinate of the current workspace to the gauge height because, right now, we're that height above whatever should be zero.
3. Back up 10mm - which will leave the end of the tool's physical height matching the DRO at 10mm+gauge height above whatever should be zero.

Top left Gauge Height, may need to save settings or fixtures/offsets or both to make it stick.

[dharmic]

And I get you about cold in the shed. Even though mine's insulated now and we're finally seeing a bit of sun in Perth after a couple of weeks of british style misery, I'm not even a little bit tempted to swap my uggies for steel caps and shuffle down there

[Sterob]

Yeah in that photo it was not maximised, but other photos where it is maximised, it still show poor quality writing with over and undersized fonts and broken up words on various screens.

My apolagises....I am barking up the proverbial wrong tree ......lol

I can't think what would cause that....I have seen that sort of thing in Excel when the font is set too large. I can't imgine a Windows setting causing that?

[NickB00]

It must be the chinese version of Mach 3 they give us..

My apolagises....I am barking up the proverbial wrong tree ......lol

I can't think what would cause that....I have seen that sort of thing in Excel when the font is set too large. I can't imgine a Windows setting causing that?

[NickB00]

It was 8 degrees in my garage yesterday lunchtime, I was trying to fit a dust-shoe I printed which needed some mods so thankfully I had to go back in the house and there I stayed. Brrrrr... no thanks!

.

And I get you about cold in the shed. Even though mine's insulated now and we're finally seeing a bit of sun in Perth after a couple of weeks of british style misery, I'm not even a little bit tempted to swap my uggies for steel caps and shuffle down there

[Mmpie]

8 degrees? Celsius? That's shorts and t-shirt weather.


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[NickB00]

Yeah I was in my tshirt, shorts & thongs and the garage roller door was open.

[NickB00]

Hey Guys, I have finally done my first job with my Omio X4-800L CNC Machine!
I did this one using Artcam which is an awesome program to use. Many thanks to you that have answered all my dumb questions (but wait.... there will be more)
but at least now I have made a good start and amazed how good these machines really are!
So thanks heaps everyone for your help!
Blown away!
cheers
Nick

[Mmpie]

Congrats, that's a great looking piece and for a first try very impressive.


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[Sterob]

Yeah...most of us try to cut a circle and end up driving the tool into job and breaking it....lol
Well done.....


Did you fix your font problem?

Steve

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[NickB00]

Yeah did that a couple of times, did I forget to mention that? hehe..
No I think will have to live with the font problem. Even Omio say it is a problem they have never seen.

Yeah...most of us try to cut a circle and end up driving the tool into job and breaking it....lol
Well done.....

Did you fix your font problem?

Steve

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It really came out nice, I am going to do a bigger one and use a finer ballnose bit (say 2mm) next time. The 3mm ballnose finishing bit could not get into the small crevices I think and so left some stringy bits dangling there.

Congrats, that's a great looking piece and for a first try very impressive.


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[Mmpie]

It's all trial and error. I think most people cut these sort of things with 60 degree v bits and tiny (<1mm) ball nose bits.

I really wanna try do some pieces like that, I've never done one. The most decorative thing I've done is a bunch of mounting blocks for curtain rails on a plasterboard wall they kept getting pulled out of


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[NickB00]

I bet you have made some real nice intricate pieces too. The curtain rod mounting blocks sound interesting, ok maybe not but still...,
I think small ball end bits are the go as a vee bit would leave grooves.

It's all trial and error. I think most people cut these sort of things with 60 degree v bits and tiny (<1mm) ball nose bits.

I really wanna try do some pieces like that, I've never done one. The most decorative thing I've done is a bunch of mounting blocks for curtain rails on a plasterboard wall they kept getting pulled out of


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