OmioCNC report

[RCaffin]

You know, part of your problem is that you want raised lettering. This is difficult. But if you went to slightly recessed lettering it would be much easier. Does raised/recessed really matter? Or is the big score the brand itself?

Mach3 even has a 'Writer' which lets you engrave lettering. You could experiment with that.

Cheers
Roger

[extent]

or just deck the whole top flat and spot holes for locating pegs for each letter, then machine the letters out of thin sheet stock and glue them in. You could do the M in 4 parts, the diamonds each as a separate part etc. Lap the mating surfaces together, glue with retaining compound then polish the top surface and you shouldn't even be able to see the seam. But it's not a way of saving work for sure.

Could you leave the 1mm radius insides and then come in with a V bit and just sharpen up the very top of the letter? You wouldn't be able to get much depth, but could clean up the actual flat surface of the letter, and then just have a little 3d chamfer down into the radiused stock. Might be easier to get away with if you were planning on a two tone valve cover, where the letter face is polished but the cover is painted. Could probably even get basically the same thing by just hand finishing it with a tiny triangle file, it's not too many inside corners.

--

Actually that's almost exactly what you said, so you're already thinking the same thing. Just a v bit you could get a little sharper point than a spot drill

[Mmpie]

I tried sinking the lettering in and ran a simulation engraving them first, it both didn't look right and the radius on every corner ruined the premium look.

I really like that idea of cutting the letters out in separate pieces and joining. I'd thought about trying to make the letters separately but had the same problem with the corners. I think I'll try that, which if it works well, means I can just use a chunk of tooling plate and not have to face off the top. Also saves trying to deburr between the letters where I've changed tools and I can just hit the whole top surface with a light sanding and polish before putting the letters on. 2mm sheet is cheap enough to do a trial with as well.

If only I had a laser

Will likely be a couple of weeks before I try to run this. Will come back with how it managed.


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[LoveNature]

What's the maximum workpiece size for the 4th axis on an X8-2200?

edit: came across a part of the answer:

Still would like to know what length it roughly can take.

[jo_ky]

I figured out something that I remember was asked at some point in this thread. If, during your tool charge, you can't jog the machine to rezero the Z, here is the solution: 1) Set your CAM post to not generate M1, or set Mach 3 to ignore M1 in general settings. 2) For the tool change section, in Mach 3 general settings, tell it to stop spindle and wait for cycle.

This is different than the stock OMIO settings file. But Mach has a limitation that makes it so you can't jog during an M1 (for some types of drivers).

Will come back with how it managed.

:thumbsup:

Still would like to know what length it roughly can take.

I think that would depend on what you're milling, right? If it's just foam or something, then certainly the full length of the table is available, minus the space needed to get the vise and tailstock clamped on.

On the other hand, if it's a denser and harder material, I think that a very long workpiece like that would present problems.

[dharmic]

If you set it up length wise with the head at the back of the machine (where the lost area for the gantry) and the tailstock at the front, you'll get near on 500mm.

Bear in mind, however, that machining an unsupported 500mm span on any machine can be problematic as the cutting force may well bend the part.

[jo_ky]

If you set it up length wise with the head at the back of the machine (where the lost area for the gantry) and the tailstock at the front, you'll get near on 500mm.

They said X8, though. So I think it's about 700mm, no?

[dharmic]

Derp. Yeah, probably

[LoveNature]

Ok thanks, hadn't thought about the support on such long work pieces.

[Belarusian]

Anyone else having issues with Mach3 making the machine plunge -5mm below the origin every time you 'go to zero'?
I've worked around the issue by probing the tool just before I cycle start but it's obviously not ideal. Currently planning on putting together a new controller using a UC100 however I've read other members in this thread resolving this issue but never specifying how.

[Mmpie]

Yes. I forgot what does it, think it's when you're at full Z+ and have soft limits on.

The easiest work around is to put in the MDI

G90 G54 G0 X0 Y0

Then move Z down as you need.


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[jo_ky]

I'd also be interested in fixing the issue with the Goto Zero button. When I first experienced that problem was when I decided that Mach 3 is not going to work for me, long term. I used to be a software developer, and it's just too frustrating to work with software that has complete disregard for usability like that. Looking at the UCCNC screens, and the way the interface seems to actually make sense, I'm so jealous!

I want to report that I got a Kent CNC dust shoe, the Mini with the 60mm mount diameter and a 3" brush ring. It fits fine, but only just barely! I've tried it out with wood and HDPE, and I'm happy with the performance. The workmanship on the one I got is not that great, though - there's a sloppy seal on the adhesive holding in the hose connector. At least the design is nice. I really like being able to see through the base.

On the way, now, I have a Kool Mist 60M12 spray mister. I would have gotten the Noga, but it comes with very short supply lines, and to get the 2 meter ones would have cost me more than the unit itself. No thanks.

[dharmic]

Had some fun last weekend, was cutting some parts for a couple of 2x72" belt grinders a mate and I are making for ourselves.

Very tentative at first but turns out the Omio plays nicely in mild steel. I was surprised and impressed.

Carbide 3mm 2 flute cutter, 10,000RPM. Helixing in on a 2.8mm diameter, then cutting at full depth 6mm, 250mm/min on an adaptive toolpath that looked to be about a 0.25mm radial WOC.

Munch, munch, munch with a fairly good finish even before I did a spring pass at the end.

One cockup had it ramp into a full depth slot cut - surprisingly, the tool didn't just break before I managed to hit the feed hold and pull it out of there. Given the racket it started making I suspect it wouldn't have lasted long trying to do that though

[jo_ky]

That's useful, thanks! What was the feed rate and angle for the helix? Any coating on the carbide bit you use?

[dharmic]

Good question. 2º ramp, 100mm/min for the feed-in rate. No coating - I bought these bits for aluminium work which wants sharp edges, coatings dull the cutting edge. Could have sped things up with a coated cutter, I guess.

These cutters I'm getting from the Klot Tool store on eBay (seller danyazhan0) and I've been really pleased with how well they're going for the price. Only downside is the typical 3-4 week wait.

[Mmpie]

Good question. 2º ramp, 100mm/min for the feed-in rate. No coating - I bought these bits for aluminium work which wants sharp edges, coatings dull the cutting edge. Could have sped things up with a coated cutter, I guess.

These cutters I'm getting from the Klot Tool store on eBay (seller danyazhan0) and I've been really pleased with how well they're going for the price. Only downside is the typical 3-4 week wait.

Interesting. I think I need to buy another spindle, and try this. This could save me a massive headache, I wouldn't have even bothered trying on the OMIO without this heads up, so cheers.

Is it a leaded/free machining steel you used or just plain old normal mild steel?


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[dharmic]

Correction - they're TiN coated, damn, about $15 a go and stupidity has cost me a couple. Impatience will probably cost me the next one as I attempt a ramp in and full depth slot cut.

Mmmpie not sure of the steel, it's galvanised plate from the scrap dealer around the corner. It'll be the cheapest nastiest rolled gal plate they can get their hands on, I'm guessing something like a GS250. Guarantee it won't have anything in it to make cutting easier.

Oh yeah, coolant is a pulse misted 20% ethanol in water mix with a teaspoon per litre of soluble oil thrown in for a touch of lubricity.

[Mmpie]

Correction - they're TiN coated, damn, about $15 a go and stupidity has cost me a couple. Impatience will probably cost me the next one as I attempt a ramp in and full depth slot cut.

Mmmpie not sure of the steel, it's galvanised plate from the scrap dealer around the corner. It'll be the cheapest nastiest rolled gal plate they can get their hands on, I'm guessing something like a GS250. Guarantee it won't have anything in it to make cutting easier.

Oh yeah, coolant is a pulse misted 20% ethanol in water mix with a teaspoon per litre of soluble oil thrown in for a touch of lubricity.

Nice, so in theory a nice chunk of leaded flat bar should machine quite easily... with a decent spindle. This one I have currently is a pile of crap, 3mm carbide hits its limit at a similar engagement in 6082 al. 3mm axial 0.5mm radial is as hard as I can push it before they start breaking at a feed rate that is teetering on a very fine line between cutting and rubbing, the run out is horrifically bad.


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[dharmic]

I'm finding out now, by comparison, just how nasty aluminium is to cut. Zero forgiveness on stupid moves with the mild steel but none of those "drop in spindle note giving you 1.28 seconds' warning before the gummy cutting edge bites hard and snaps the tool off" shenanigans that you get with ali.

[RCaffin]

Gummy aluminium - yeah, but that means you are using the WRONG alloy. 5000-series or below are a pig to machine. CP is a disaster. 6000-series is fair to good, and cast aluminium tooling plate is a delight. Fortal is wonderful.
A polished aluminium-specific cutter is preferred. Do not use it on steel.
(Pulsed) misting with some oil is very desirable: I use kero/olive oil, 3:1. Skin compatible (well, the oil is).

Cheers
Roger