Has anyone added switches to a YooCNC 3040T control box?

[john-100]

Hi

provided you get the package right all 74xx244 IC's function the same way (if they functioned differently the would have a different serial number)

looking at the NXP and TI data sheets they are the same looking at the pin connections but the eight buffers are not labled the same way !

eg the buffer input connected to pins 11 is labled 2A1 by TI and 2A3 by NXP



the upgraded BOB should work but you will need check the supply voltage from your machines PSU and
double check the connections on the 5 axis connectors are wired the same way

I guess the possible new BOB supply input is limited to 24V because it has only one volatage regulator and not two as on the original board

( the data sheet indicates the maximum input voltage is 30V for 5 to 9V regulators and 35V in for 12 to 18V regulators
assuming you have the tab soldered to enough copper on the board )

what did you use to test the printer port outputs ?
a multimeter ??

a logic probe will make it easier to detect the step pulses -
Service Unavailable - not sure why it says unavailable , the link works ?
Mouser Part No: 615-DP-21


once you have proved the BOB's step and direction signal output are OK
it should work unless the stepper drivers are damaged


I'm impressed by the pictures from the drone , I can see short clips being used in TV programs
I've fun with microwave associates radiolinks - line of sight analog TV
MA-13CP was a small 13GHz portable transmitter

used to have problems with reflections bouncing of nearby buildings


in the 1980's
the Electronic News Gathering equipment only had to be good enough to replace 16mm film

I've used the 2" quadruplex VTR's a couple of times -
The Quadruplex Park Tour



you have to watch this several times to see what happens ! -
first morning in the VT department you get the job of spooling fresh tape in the the cassettes !!!



later , Ampex VPR2 1" for several years -

I would like to have used a VPR5 -


John

[RamzInnovations]

Well I fiddled around with this controller a little more and made some interesting discoveries... first I found that the stepper power supply was switched to 220v instead of 110v...I'm not sure why it was working fine when I first got it and apparently it was set for 220v. Before it was switched to 110v it was outputting 20v, after switching 25.8v. On the bob the LM7812 takes the 25v and brings it down to about 14v and then the LM7805 is regulating that down to 4.8v...or at least it starts out that way....after a minute the 7805 starts to get really hot and output V drops rapidly to about 2.8v. I'm not sure if the 1N4007 diode is bad causing some issues or if it's just too much voltage for the 7805 to bring 14v down to 5v... seems like a lot to me. I don't have a logic probe so I'm reduced to using a dmm to check the PP output signals. I can clearly see there is a signal being sent to the buffer and out from the buffer to the corresponding pins of the drives. The three drives each have a red led lit when powered up whether or not the drive input is connected to the bob, I have no idea if this is a status "ok" light or if it's only supposed to be on when the drive is damaged?? Like I said before the steppers power up and hold position but won't move with input. I tried setting the enable pins for the drives high and low and I would get proper V reading but it made no difference. I'm starting to think that the optocouplers on the drives are dead so I'm going to make one last effort to figure out what the problem is. Tonight I'll pull the optocouplers on the drives and test them and swap out the 1N4007 on the bob. Beyond that I'm not too keen on messing with this anymore and I'll just have to bite the bullet and get a G540 like I had on my last machine...rather than trying a new bob and finding that the drives are damaged as well. I know it's a difficult thing to diagnose over the net but if you, John, or anyone else has any insight as to what the problem could be I'd be very grateful for any advise. I wouldn't mind posting a video of testing all the pins with my dmm if it would help.

PS, I can't find any info on the stepper drive boards, they are labeled "TX13130"....

Thanks!

[john-100]

the 5V regulator can work with a 30 volt input
so it should be OK with the 14V from the first regulator provide it has a large enough heatsink for the maximum current required
I'd expect the maximum current into the drivers to be 30mA per axis when all three opto isolator input LED's are on


with your 3 axis machine I'd expect the maximum current through the regulator to be about 0.1A and will disipate about 1 watt


try unplugging the 3 ribbon cables connecting the BOB to the stepper divers
the regulator will now be powering just the 74HC244 on the BOB

if the regulator still over heats then you have a fault on the BOB

but it now works OK with the ribbon cables unplugged then one or more stepper drivers have been damaged

John

PS
what does the stepper drivers look like ?

[RamzInnovations]

Thanks for the quick response John! Ok so I checked the 5vreg with the ribbon connectors unplugged and PP unplugged it got really hot but voltage remained at 4.96v. Next I powered it off and plugged the ribbon cables and left the PP unplugged, but I could keep a finger on it this time without scorching me. So then I repeated the test and got the same results. I decided to check the input and output pins of the buffer, without the PP connected I'm getting voltage across all inputs and outputs! So assuming something is very wrong I thought...what if they sent me the wrong IC... damn I feel stupid! I looked a the code on the chip and I had assumed they just put part #'s on it rather than the 74HC244D code...I was wrong, they sent me this...


So the IC is a flip flop http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/74LVC574A.pdf
That's what I get for assuming So I guess I'll order another 74HC244 and see if I can actually get one this time...hopefully I haven't caused damage to the drives using the wrong ic...

The drives look like this...




You can see the main chip on the backside of the drive sandwiched against the heat sink.

[john-100]

that explains why it did not work
the good news is both the 74244 and 74574 ics have inputs on pins 2 to 9
so you didn't have an IC output pin connected to a printerport output !

John

[xx1180]

Hi Chaps,,, Just got my machine and box....same box as the first post but slightly different inside and another one of the boards has display on the connector. It looks like it might be able to do the limit switches....has anyone had a go at doing that with this pcb ???
Attachment 228972
Attachment 228974
Attachment 228976

Don't know if you have got this sorted yet but all you need to do is connect the x on the board to the common side of a normally closed switch then from the normally closed side of the switch to common on the second switch then from the normally closed side of the second switch to the g connector on the board this then gives you two switches one on either side of the x-axis then do the same for the y-axis and the z-axis you will need 6 switches in all but you only need 3 pins to control them. in ports and pins, inputs enable the x y z to active high this is with the cross not the tick x home is port 1 pin 11, y home is port 1 pin 12 and z home is port 1 pin 13 then you can enable all the x axis limits to the same as x home then do the y-axis and z-axis if you get stuck just shout.

[Wesk18]

Well I fiddled around with this controller a little more and made some interesting discoveries... first I found that the stepper power supply was switched to 220v instead of 110v...I'm not sure why it was working fine when I first got it and apparently it was set for 220v. Before it was switched to 110v it was outputting 20v, after switching 25.8v. On the bob the LM7812 takes the 25v and brings it down to about 14v and then the LM7805 is regulating that down to 4.8v...or at least it starts out that way....after a minute the 7805 starts to get really hot and output V drops rapidly to about 2.8v. I'm not sure if the 1N4007 diode is bad causing some issues or if it's just too much voltage for the 7805 to bring 14v down to 5v... seems like a lot to me. I don't have a logic probe so I'm reduced to using a dmm to check the PP output signals. I can clearly see there is a signal being sent to the buffer and out from the buffer to the corresponding pins of the drives. The three drives each have a red led lit when powered up whether or not the drive input is connected to the bob, I have no idea if this is a status "ok" light or if it's only supposed to be on when the drive is damaged?? Like I said before the steppers power up and hold position but won't move with input. I tried setting the enable pins for the drives high and low and I would get proper V reading but it made no difference. I'm starting to think that the optocouplers on the drives are dead so I'm going to make one last effort to figure out what the problem is. Tonight I'll pull the optocouplers on the drives and test them and swap out the 1N4007 on the bob. Beyond that I'm not too keen on messing with this anymore and I'll just have to bite the bullet and get a G540 like I had on my last machine...rather than trying a new bob and finding that the drives are damaged as well. I know it's a difficult thing to diagnose over the net but if you, John, or anyone else has any insight as to what the problem could be I'd be very grateful for any advise. I wouldn't mind posting a video of testing all the pins with my dmm if it would help.

PS, I can't find any info on the stepper drive boards, they are labeled "TX13130"....

Thanks!

Where you able to find the schematics for the tx13130?
I need to know where does out1a,out2a,out2b go to

Thanks

[01012k7]

Don't know if you have got this sorted yet but all you need to do is connect the x on the board to the common side of a normally closed switch then from the normally closed side of the switch to common on the second switch then from the normally closed side of the second switch to the g connector on the board this then gives you two switches one on either side of the x-axis then do the same for the y-axis and the z-axis you will need 6 switches in all but you only need 3 pins to control them. in ports and pins, inputs enable the x y z to active high this is with the cross not the tick x home is port 1 pin 11, y home is port 1 pin 12 and z home is port 1 pin 13 then you can enable all the x axis limits to the same as x home then do the y-axis and z-axis if you get stuck just shout.

My idea I have made a lead which will be installed in to the controller box and then into a small black plastic box will have the outputs to cnc limit switches here my photo sounds like the switches are in a loop to the ground for the probe was going to make a lead to the box then have other 2.1 connector to the probe its not a problem to change wire if I am wrong also will have other connector if i need them.

[2greedy]

could someone pls show me how i hookup limit switches and where as i have no idea guy's

[Michael82]

[QUOTE=RamzInnovations;1524140]John, thank you so much! That's great info, I went ahead and ordered a few of the 74HC244 Q100 IC's from Digikey for 0.51/ea. I measured the chip with my caliper and your correct, it i the 7.5mm wide 20SOIC....here is Digikey's part number in case anyone else is every looking....568-10112-1-ND.

I also started to look over the bob more closely, in search of a burnt trace....sure enough on the underside right by where the 25 pin PP header is soldered on there's a burnt spot. I suppose I'll scrape out the burnt material and clean up the area with alcohol before fixing the connection with a section of 26ga silicone wire.

On my bob the components and layout appear identical to the Tonsen but mine has a different name on the board...

Here you can see the red wire to the right used to tap pin 13 of the PP for limit switch
Attachment 241964

Here is a look at the blown IC
Attachment 241966

Back lit the board to inspect the traces here...
Attachment 241968

Here's a look at the under side of the bob, you can see the burnt spot where the short blew the trace! The black is wire used to tap pin 18 of the PP for limit switch
Attachment 241970

And another back lit shot to inspect traces...
Attachment 241972


Hopefully fixing the trace and replacing the IC will get this going again as I really need this machine running asap. I own a small business designing and manufacturing multi-rotor frames (ie. micro/nano class FPV platforms otherwise known as "drones") made from carbon fiber. I have a stack of orders that I'm currently having to cut by hand with a dremel.... not fun .... here's a pic of one of the products I make...

Attachment 241976

size reference
Attachment 241974[/QUOTE

I have a Bob just like the blown one in the pic can you show a pic of how u have it wired for the limit switch/home switches

[john-100]

going back to post 32

this circuit diagram may help to trace the PCB tracks




John

[john-100]

30 awg Kynar like this :-
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hooku...-wire/2094811/
can be used to replace burnt out tracks


John

[Michael82]

Ramzinnovations I have the same bob as you show in the pics above and I am trying to wire in limit switches and home switches and a "Z" probe can you please show some pictures of your wiring to the bob to the switches . When I got my machine ( 3040t router from ebay )
the leads from the driver to the bob were misplaced the "X" axis wire was plugged into the "a" axis slot it took forever to find that mess up but now all I need is a little help on the wiring of limit and home switches

[john-100]

Hi Micheal

if your BOB is exactly like this with no opto-isolators fitted



then this view showing the under side
shows the input PCB tracks showing the connections to pins 10 to 13 + 15
you can either use the pads that connect to the opto-isolators or the 330 ohm SIL array
(6 resistors with one connection to a common terminal)


note the 2 pin connector to connect the E-stop switch between GND and pin 10

john

PS
in the first photo the red wire goes to pin 13

assuming you are using Mach 3
using normally closed switches
you can connect all the home / limit switches in series between the BOB GND and an input
pin ( pin 11 for example)

the touch probe can be connected between pin 12 and ground

so you will of used only 3 inputs

John

[Michael82]

JOHN-100 thanks for the help on the other bob I went out and got a new 5 axis mach3 bob and I was wondering if you could help me transfer the wiring from the old bob that the machine came with over to this bob

[john-100]

a while ago I reverse engineered a board like yours to help someone bench test a board



the board needs a 12 to 24V supply for the 10V regulator that powers
the 5 opto-isolater input circuits and PWM to 0 - 10V DC converter to control a VFD

and a 5V supply from a PC USB port powers that two 74HC245 IC's that buffers the 12 outputs from your printer port
(or motion controller)

depending on how many axis you control and how you control your spindle you may find
you will need to need to change very little in mach 3 's ports & pins

John

PS
if you are using pins 8 & 9 as enable for the Y & Z axis on the old BOB
then you will need to change pins 8 & 9 to 14 for the new BOB

[Michael82]

ok got it .....i will take a swing at it when I get off of work I will probably have more questions do you mind helping ??

[john-100]

ask any question you need to get the machine working

John

[Michael82]

Hey John I was wondering if you have added z axis limit switches /home switches to your machine and if so where , I have attached a pic of the machine I have and I need help finding a place for my z axis switches

[john-100]

I don't have a 6040 router but looking at the photos on line

but my first thoughts are to use the existing screws

a right angled bracket on the top of the cable support can hold a microswitch just to the left of the stepper motor

another right angled or "dog legged" bracket to the left of the spindle motor can be used to trip the micro switch
when the Z axis is at the top of its travel



John