Has anyone added switches to a YooCNC 3040T control box?

[cimitoka]

Cimitoka

[dacb]

Hi Chaps,,, Just got my machine and box....same box as the first post but slightly different inside and another one of the boards has display on the connector. It looks like it might be able to do the limit switches....has anyone had a go at doing that with this pcb ???
Attachment 228972
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Attachment 228976

Hi Glen,
I have that box. A couple of notes. The JP-382A board has the home switch header to the left of the stop header (which is to the left of the JP-382A silkscreen label). The XYZG are the X, Y, Z, and common ground pins, respectively. I don't recall the DB-25 pin #s for these. I can check. Also of note is the PWM out header on the board and corresponding header on the power/spindle board (JP-1482?). I suspect that the spindle board can be configured to take its PWM signal from the DB-25, e.g. whitequark's lab notebook

The LED display header on the spindle board looks like ti might be SPI controlled? I haven't really had a chance to put a logic probe on that yet.

[DMcKee]

Glad to hear of your success!
I'm doing geometric shapes, so hand coding isn't a big deal. Most of my programs are about 200 lines. I'll take a look at CamBam for more complex jobs.

Our machine just went down here last week. I'm not sure if it was because the spindle was turned on with while the speed pot was set to max or what caused the failure; but it took out the 5 A fuse and the IRF740 MOSFET. We only had an IRF540, but it seems to do the job. I expect the IRF540 may fail early; it has a max Vds of 100V versus the IRF740's max Vds of 400V.

EDIT:
This post was a response to an e-mail I just received about a reply in the thread. It is wildly out of place! Lesson learned: open the thread and go to the end, don't trust the notification system. Ah well

[hankus1942]

Hi Chaps,,, Just got my machine and box....same box as the first post but slightly different inside and another one of the boards has display on the connector. It looks like it might be able to do the limit switches....has anyone had a go at doing that with this pcb ???
Attachment 228972
Attachment 228974
Attachment 228976

This board is the same as mine, and I plan to add limit switches using the 4pin connect shown with X,Y,Z,G designation. I've already verified that the other side of the OptoCouplers are wired to the DB25 pins 10, 11, 12. I plan on mounting another 4pin mic connector on the back panel to interface with the limit switches, and internally wire the 4pin mic jack to a 4 pin JST-XH connector to plug into the JP-382A.

I also would like to entertain a Z-Probe and have one concern. In looking at the pictures of JP-382A board there are two chips above the PWM connector. The top chip labeled ENO has it's PIN 1 cut and bent out in the picture. Mine is like that as well. Anyone know what ENO might stand for? Immediately to the left of this pair of chips ENO and DDO is the label PROBE which is my target of interest.

[DMcKee]

It's not clear from the pictures but it looks like they are using the EL817 optoisolator used on the PW3024 (spindle drive) motor board in my unit. With pin 1 cut and bent away, that ENO chip is disabled and will not pass whatever signal ENO is.

>>Now the following is conjecture on my part.<<
My suspicion is that the socket to the left of the IC labeled "probe" is the connector for the Z probe. It should be a 2 conductor connector, one conductor connected to the common voltage return and one conductor that connects to a clip that would attach to the tool when doing a Z-ref.

The EL817 datasheet can be viewed at: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/143/EL817-40678.pdf

[glenfraser]

My probe is plugged on the back of a small socket that's if you are on about this.....

[hankus1942]

My probe is plugged on the back of a small socket that's if you are on about this.....

I see that socket on my controller, but thought it was for power...duh. If that's the connector for the probe then it should be easy enough to test. It's just a grounded contact when touched by the spindles bit right?

[RussellK]

It's just a grounded contact when touched by the spindles bit right?

Only if the spindle is connected to signal ground - there's an alligator clip to attach to the tool for that purpose.

[hankus1942]

I'm going to try my hand at PCB isolation routing, so my thought was to run a connection from the probe socket to the PCB copper using an alligator clip. Then the signal ground you speak of sounds like the same ground that is going to be used on my limit switches so that I can run an a second alligator clip from that ground to my routing bit. When the bit touches the copper... voila!! Right?

[RussellK]

my thought was to run a connection from the probe socket to the PCB copper using an alligator clip. Then the signal ground you speak of sounds like the same ground that is going to be used on my limit switches so that I can run an a second alligator clip from that ground to my routing bit. When the bit touches the copper... voila!! Right?

That sounds fine - note that the probe socket has two connections - I think the sleeve is signal ground, and the centre pin is the probe input. If you permanently connect the spindle body to signal ground, then you should only need the connection from the probe input to the PCB copper.

[glenfraser]

@hunkus1942 I just plugged it in the back configured mach 3 and it all worked fine...... I am looking at coppercam to do my pcb conversion's for the gcode.
How to Convert and Mill your PCB Layouts on your CNC

[visual14cnc]

Hi, did you get any replies as I too have this board and want to add limit switches to it...looks like 'XYZG' is the socket but I am unsure on what needs to be done to add the switches any assistance would be great. I have looked further on this subject but am unsure whether the answers are relevant to our board type...not keen to go down the Breakout Board unless I have to.
Thanks Pete

[hankus1942]

Hi, did you get any replies as I too have this board and want to add limit switches to it...looks like 'XYZG' is the socket but I am unsure on what needs to be done to add the switches any assistance would be great. I have looked further on this subject but am unsure whether the answers are relevant to our board type...not keen to go down the Breakout Board unless I have to.
Thanks Pete

I connected limit switches to my control box. The "G" or ground is used conjunction with X Y or Z as needed. For my setup I wire all my limit switches in series. One end of the chain was wired to "G" and the other end of the series chain was wired to "X". Pins 11, 12, and 13 are the outputs of X,Y and Z. For example if you connect term "X" to term "G" in the controller, PIN 11 will be seen by Mach3 when the connection is open or closed. Terminals Y and Z aren't being used at the moment, just in case I want to connect them for some other function. The process of using one lead for all limit switches is outlined in the Mach3 documentation. Hope this helps. Henry

[visual14cnc]

Hi, just wanted to thank hankus1942 for his help, I will follow your example which gives me extra for the Home switches if required.
RegardspPete

[RamzInnovations]

Hi there, I ran across this thread while searching for info on the Tonsen 4 axis bob and read over the discussion about it a few pages back... anyway I have a 3020 router and one of these controller boxes like cimitoka has and I added leads to the bob for pins 13 and 18 of the PP to add limit/home switches. I ran my switches in series and everything worked fine, all axis homed properly and triggered limits properly..... until I started to spin up the spindle. I tried to cut corners (like an idiot) and didn't use shielded cable for the limit switches so naturally the spindle running at about 50% was enough to trigger a fault in mach3. So I then got the bright idea to shield just the spindle motor wires (much easier than re-running limit switch cables) so I used some 2 core double shielded cable from the spindle drive output inside the box and bypassed the connector bundle running from the controller box out to the machine, then I connected the shield of the cable to the COM of the stepper driver's power supply since this was the closest place I could find that was connected to the PP's shield. At first I left the spindle end of the cable's shield open but when I tested operation I was still getting limit fault but this time up near 80% spindle speed.... so I decided to run a ground leash from the spindle cable shield to the the router's frame and BINGO problem solved, spindle at full speed and moving all axis without limit trip! BUT THEN I made a terrible mistake... after testing the leash with it twisted to the braided shield of the cable, I went back to permanently attach it and solder it to the shield, I must have held the iron on it a split second too long because when I powered back up POOF!!! Magic smoke from both my PC and the controller box So basically the neg of the spindle drive crossed the COM of the stepper drives power supply and from what I can see it blew the top on the 20 pin IC near the axis connections on the Tonsen bob and the ??cmos?? chip in my PC. I already got a new PC so that's taken care of but I'm certain I'll need a new bob at least too. I fixed the shorted cable and powered up the control box without my pc connected and the spindle drive still works and I'm getting power to the steppers ( at least they're holding position). I tested continuity between COM of the stepper power supply and the PP shield and resistance was infinite but should have been <0.3ohm from my earlier tests.... Does anyone know if it's likely caused other damage to the controller besides what's apparent on the bob? I'm obviously apprehensive to connect my pc to the box without at least a new bob in place but I'd like to know if there are some things I should check before I get a new bob? And, would the C10/C10S bob be a suitable swap?

Thanks guys!

[john-100]

with the printer port ground shorted to the motor negative wire
at switch on the motor will receive the full 24V as the FET that normally controls the motor current has
been bypassed by the PP screen and the BOB's thin ground trace thats earthed by your PC motherboard !!

so you may find the copper printed circuit is now open circuit in several places

the 20 pin IC on the breakout board will be a 74HC244 Q100 - you need the SO20 surface mount version I think

http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sh...CT244_Q100.pdf

if you have a go at replacing it , have a practice on an old computer board first


If you use a C10 breakout board
you will need either a 5V regulator to drop the existing 24V supply down to 5V for the C10
or add a regulated 5V supply adaptor

(the original BOB has a 12V and a 5V voltage regulator to drop the 24V supply down to 5V)

you could build a circuit like this -
http://www.geckodrive.com/step-direction-tester

to check the stepper drivers


John

[RamzInnovations]

John, thank you so much! That's great info, I went ahead and ordered a few of the 74HC244 Q100 IC's from Digikey for 0.51/ea. I measured the chip with my caliper and your correct, it i the 7.5mm wide 20SOIC....here is Digikey's part number in case anyone else is every looking....568-10112-1-ND.

I also started to look over the bob more closely, in search of a burnt trace....sure enough on the underside right by where the 25 pin PP header is soldered on there's a burnt spot. I suppose I'll scrape out the burnt material and clean up the area with alcohol before fixing the connection with a section of 26ga silicone wire.

On my bob the components and layout appear identical to the Tonsen but mine has a different name on the board...

Here you can see the red wire to the right used to tap pin 13 of the PP for limit switch


Here is a look at the blown IC


Back lit the board to inspect the traces here...


Here's a look at the under side of the bob, you can see the burnt spot where the short blew the trace! The black is wire used to tap pin 18 of the PP for limit switch


And another back lit shot to inspect traces...



Hopefully fixing the trace and replacing the IC will get this going again as I really need this machine running asap. I own a small business designing and manufacturing multi-rotor frames (ie. micro/nano class FPV platforms otherwise known as "drones") made from carbon fiber. I have a stack of orders that I'm currently having to cut by hand with a dremel.... not fun .... here's a pic of one of the products I make...



size reference

[john-100]

assuming you don't have a SMT rework station

I'd remove the capacitor and some of the connectors to have a greater access to the IC pins

you have 2 options - either cut the pins next to the epoxy package and the desolder the pins one at a time
or run solder along all 20 pins and the IC should come off in one - the trick is not lifting the tracks

either way It can be helpful to practice on an old PC card first



its taken a few searches to find as I could not remember what its called -

SMD1 Chip Quik Inc | SMD1-ND | DigiKey



Chip Quik: Easy removal of surface mounted devices







working on those minature drones you must have the steady hand required to replace the 74HC244

its an interesting project your working on

how long do they fly before the battery needs charging


John

[RamzInnovations]

Thanks again for the advice John Yeah no rework station here but I do have a lot of soldering experience with surface mount components...

The nano class drones I make have a flight time of 5-7min with on board HD and audio recording, but you can swap batteries in 2 seconds without the need for a cool down period, and at only about $3/battery I can have a bunch ready to go... recharge time is 30min and with a splitter I can charge 5 at the same time in 30min. Range varies based on environment but generally I get a minimum of 1500ft and with some decent antennas I I've been able to push that out to nearly a mile! Top speed is in the neighborhood of 40-45mph (1000ft/18sec) so you can really cover a lot of ground quickly. If your interested to see some footage of the drones or my past experience with putting a CNC machine together here's my YT channel... https://www.youtube.com/user/RamseyInnovations/videos
My old 7x I sold earlier this year...
Maiden flight of the Venom....



Anyway, apparently when I measured the 74HC244 on the bob I didn't take the correct measurement... although the IC linked to earlier (
404 Page Not Found :: NXP Semiconductors) is the same type of buffer on the bob, it is NOT the exact same IC. The nxp brand comes in a 7.5mm wide package while the one found on my bob was closer 5.5mm wide. I've looked at the 74HC244 in several different brands (ie. nxp, Ti, Fairchild etc..) and the only one found with a width of about 5mm is the Texas Instruments brand of which it seems only minimum quantities of 2000 are available... I tried to hunt down a sample but since it's somewhat of an old chip it doesn't seem likely. Anyway, so I had already ordered the nxp chip before realizing this so I decided to give it a go anyway. I checked the pinout of the nxp vs the Ti and the pins seem to match, input, output and enable, ground etc... all match BUT there are some discrepancies... for example on the Ti chip pin 11 is 2A1 vs the nxp with 2A3 on pin 11. Now I really don't know much about this so maybe someone can help me out here but as far as I can tell all the inputs and outputs on the two chips are the same so would they be interchangeable?? Here are the links to the data sheets to compare... nxp http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sh...CT244_Q100.pdf
Ti http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74hc244.pdf
I believe the one on my bob is the package type "NS" shown last at the bottom of the Ti data sheet.

[RamzInnovations]

I decided to give the nxp chip a shot since I bought 3 in case I screw something up... anyway I tried it and no surprise it didn't work. So I figured it must be the logic pins are in a different configuration since the drives still power up and hold the steppers but I'm getting no function through mach3, except for limit switches and E stop. So I tried installing another new nxp buffer but reconfiguring some of the logic pins according to the Ti's layout. I used some short jumper wires to do this and secured them down to the board with adhesive so the traces wouldn't lift. Unfortunately this didn't work either... I tried everything I could think of to get some sort of motion from the motors but nothing worked. I tested the pins of the PP to ensure that I'm getting signal change on output pins for dir and step and I'm getting correct function so the issue must be either the buffer I'm trying to replace isn't compatible with the original and/or there's damage to the drives....possibly the opto couplers IDK... I'm guessing the next logical step would be to buy a new bob and try that first. I don't have the time to build a test circuit for the drives to check them so ANY SUGGESTIONS other than getting a new bob??? Does anyone know the manufacturer of the buffer chip on the bob (I assumed it's Ti based on the package measurements but mines too damaged to read anything) so I can check the exact pinout since some HC244's are different?

As far as a new goes, I had mentioned the c10 before but I also found this : Upgraded 5 Axis CNC Breakout Board for Stepper Motor Driver Mach3 + USB Cable
Would this be better since it has the usb power?

Thanks guys, any help is greatly appreciated!