An R8 spindle in action.
http://www.tormach.com/MfgDatabase/MFG_20102.wmv
It's a 25 megabyte file but quite impressive. Im sure an ISO30 would have been equally impressive on a machine of this size.
Regards
Phil
As R8 demonstrations on machines of that size go, I found this one to be more interesting:
http://www.industrialhobbies.com/Pro...ample_part.mpg
That's inch and a half aluminum. OTOH, it may have been a #30 taper since spindles are available for both.
Phil, you must have some pictures of things you've made on your Tormach mill. Share some. I've had a hard time tracking anything down since the mill is so new. Mayhugh's turner's cubes were nice on the Yahoo Group.
Best,
BW
Very nice. Is it a R8 or ISO30 spindle.
Regards
Phil
Originally Posted by BobWarfield
Wow! The Tormach sliced through that plate like butter... now I wonder how many steps were lost in the process...
Sorry but I had to say it
Don't think it is ever explicitly stated. However, he is clearly not using an R8 in the following:
http://www.industrialhobbies.com/how..._gauge_pt2.htm
Also, here is the support page for the video that Bob posted with some details
http://www.industrialhobbies.com/Pro...ple_part_1.htm
If its slices like butter possibly none.
Regards
Phil
Wow! The Tormach sliced through that plate like butter... now I wonder how many steps were lost in the process...
Sorry but I had to say it
I think it would be bad practice to use one spindle type for the videos and then sell the machine with a different spindle.
Regards
Phil
The Tormach video is done with a roughing endmill, lets see them do that with a 4 flute finisher :-).
I do know from running FADALS which are limited as to the spindle and general machine rigidity that you can pull things off with a corncob that would SHRIEEEEEEKKKKKK with a normal endmill :-)
Bill
I have a bridgeport series II with a NMTB30 spindle, and it's good for that. I might be selling some tooling, so all of you go buy this spindle so I can get a higher priceAt one time I wished that I had an R8 machine because of the costs. I don't even want to think about how much I've spent on tooling, it's a lot. I still need to buy a jacobs taper attachment and probably some other specialized tooling, but I have tons of the standard stuff.
$65 is a great price for a spindle, don't know if I can justify buying another project though. It would be nice to have a spindle I can move around, I was just cutting a 2" hole in the bridgeport tonight, what a pain!
I'm under the impression that NMTB 30/40/50 tooling is getting pretty rare in new machines. They seem to all use the Cat tooling because of the superior tool changing capabilities.
It's funny, I always though that Bridgeports were all I needed in a mill until I was milling large holes in some mild steel on the Series I at work. Turns out it's fairly easy to get the head and column moving on a bridgeport.
Phil,
re: your post: "I think it would be bad practice to use one spindle type for the videos and then sell the machine with a different spindle."
When I visited IH late in the summer and bought my manual mill, three versions were available: 1. Manual mill, 2. Manual mill with standard CNC kit, 3. Manual mill with Light Industrial kit. Options available for all mills included different motors and the ISO-30 spindle. Of course the kits were available with or without the mill.
It was just like buying a new car. I selected the model and options that suited me. Unlike buying a car, there was absolutly no pressure from the salesman (Aaron). He knew that the machine would sell itself. Perhaps the best part about that experience was that I knew going in that I could add ISO-30 tooling to my mill because it was an option - not something that I would have to figure out on my own.
Hi everyone
I purchased the 30 spindle from Aaron cause my R8 tab is almost gone ( dont ask me how). So this spindle I dont have to worry about the tab. Fot me its a godsend thanks Aaron.
Randy
when you say tab, do you mean the pin inside that keeps the collet from spinning when you tighten it up? I would think you could replace it. I know the machinist at work replaced the one in a Bridgeport.
Take the R8 pin out, it makes tool changes a lot faster.
Aaron Moss
www.IndustrialHobbies.com
I was hoping someone would say that!
FWIW, on another site, a fellow seems to have figured out how to do this without even removing the spindle:
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/grou...r/message/2777
I'm sure Aaron can do this blindfolded with one hand tied behind his back, but the rest can look to the link for details, or, here is the salient paragraph:
I had recalled from earlier inspections a slot in the quill that was
exposed when I lowered the spindle. I wondered if it was placed such
that I could gain access to the spindle pin from the outside. Sure
enough, it was. I had to rotate the spindle to expose the pin but
the slot was perfectly positioned axially so that I could effect my
repair.
Best,
BW
so we can take the r8 pin out and it will still tighten properly on the drawbar? I just added the same power drawbar that bob did. I gotta say I will be doing another with a better base plate for the ih mill and I will be doing a couple for the minimills that are going on ebay. If i could get rid of this then my toolchanger will work out perfectly. That along with two other issues were holding me back.
does anyone have the bearing part numbers for this spindle? looks like aaron took them off his web site when he shut down the shop.
dad used to say... "once is ignorance. the second time you're stupid!"
never mind... found the link is still active on the ih site. here it is copied (so i don't lose it again).
dad used to say... "once is ignorance. the second time you're stupid!"
Does anyone know if there would be enough room to mount a duplex pair of angular bearings in the sleeve and on the new spindle? I've looked at the diagram but haven't taken it apart yet.
These would be for the lower bearings, http://bearingsdirect.com/products/i...=4&prevstart=0
and these for the top, http://bearingsdirect.com/products/i...=4&prevstart=0
But since there are two I guess they would be twice the width.
not sure about adding bearings, but isn't abec7 a little excessive? what do you feel the benefits are as opposed to the abec1/3 is? they're $20... and the 7's are almost $600 for a pair.
dad used to say... "once is ignorance. the second time you're stupid!"
ABEC7 probably is excessive, but it depends on what other bearing sources you have available. This is a duplex pair, so you don't need 2 of these, just 1 at least.
Kimoyo, it does look to me like there is room for a duplex pair. The next question will be, "Where is a cheaper 7207 duplex pair?"
Failing a duplex pair, you'll have to create the preload with a spacer, which is a pretty finicky operation. A pair has a much higher likelihood for success.
Best,
BW
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