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  1. #61
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    Default Bolt Center Problems

    Well, somehow I got the centers wrong on the X & Y drives. Not a lot. Can be fixed by slightly elongating the holes. Also the X drive needs a spacer so the bolt holding the bearing block on will not hit the table. So I'll have to make that too.

    So if you are using my drawings as a guide, measure your machine first.

    Got the back plate of the Y drive done today, except for elongating the holes. All the plates for the Y drive are sized. So now I just have to drill & tap all those holes.

    -jd



  2. #62
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    Default Pics later but.....

    The last major mechanical part is done. That was the coupler between the X-Drive shaft and the the X ball screw. I got the inside diameters right on the first try! Yay! The holes have been corrected on the X and Y drive.

    What was wrong? Measure it three times, draw it, check it, then cut. I think I screwed up step one. There were different errors on each pair of holes. I amazed even me on this one.

    The first time I measured I did it with a steel rule. The assumption was the Bridgeport would use "standard" dimensions. Wrong. Close, but no cigar. I also assumed the Y drive shaft would be centered in the thrust plate. It's not. So I measured something that say looked really close to 1.5" and assumed it was 1.5. In hind sight this sounds really dumb, I know. Last time I do that.

    2nd go round I put bolts in all the holes and measured off the bolts. They had to be snugged up good to get them as close to center as possible. I tried to allow for dimensional problems with the bolts. They were pretty much +/- .002. But .375 bolts turned out to be .370 and stuff like that. .005 is literally a hair but it adds up right?

    Anyway, tomorrow is assembly day. Then on to electronic hook ups.

    -jd



  3. #63
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    Cant wait to see it, you will love running it
    I made mine so I can crank manually as I thought most times on small jobs it would be easier. I was wrong, it is quicker to do evenn the smallest job with CNC and think I will remove the hand cranks soon.
    Hope u post some pics.
    Hood



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    Default Y-Drive Pics

    These are all as I am assembling it. I did not take pictures of the stand offs. They are just pieces of brass pipe that have been cut to size on the mill and dressed up on the lather.

    First one is the front of the Y-Drive.

    2nd is the top and the top plate. Note the clearance that I had to cut so the pulley didn't rub on the top. I made the top very close to the pulley so I could get that big pulley in there and not have the box stick up too much. It actually sticks up more than I wanted but it does not interfere with anything.

    I would have to pull the whole thing and the screw off to remove the saddle anyway.

    3rd is a side view. 4th is a shot looking straight down.

    5th is the "Emergency Handle". I needed to fix a couple holes I forgot yesterday but the drive was half assembled. No crank, no CNC, but work to do. Hmmmm..........

    So......I saw a 1/4 20 hole in the pulley and thought, "Hey I can stick a bolt in there and use that for a crank". Well after scrounging parts bins I came up with a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe, some 1/4 in. flat washers and a 1/4 20 nut. A little work on the 7x12 lathe to cut some seats in the end of the pipe for the washers and some more cutting, trimming, and sanding, and I have a crank handle. So if the computer completely craps out I can pop the covers off the drives and keep some work going if need be. Need to make two more for the X and Z.

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    JDs BP J-Head CNC Conversion Blog-emerhndl081205-jpg  


  5. #65
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    Default X-Drive Pics

    OK, on to the X-Drive..............

    First is the drive right after the basic shell has been bolted to the end of the table. All those washers are to cover up my errors. Looks OK. But totally bush league on that goof!

    Note the bearing is bolted up in position. At this point the table has been cranked far left. This leaves almost no wiggle in the ball screw. It is stiff enough at this point to force the bearing to the proper center. Tighten it up. Instant alignment!

    2nd is another view of the basic shell. Note I have left the bottom off. This is so I can tighten everything up and install the belt. The bottom cover will go on last. The top and sides had to go on first since the screws face the table and are hidden by it.

    3rd is with the pulley on the shaft. Not tightenned yet. That will come after the motor is installed.

    4th is with the outer plate ready to get screwed down.

    5th is with the outer bearing bolted up for position.

    6th is a shot from under the drive.

    More tommorrow as this progresses. Today was just interuption city. Between parts runs and playing Dad's Taxi Service I lost several hours. Man!

    -jd

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    Last edited by jdelaney44; 08-13-2005 at 12:20 AM.


  6. #66
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    Default Today's Progress

    Hood, I can't wait either. I've read that everyone skips the handles after a while. So you are confirming what I've heard. Thanks for the replies as always. Glad to hear your machine is humming along.

    -----------------------------------------------

    Today was about getting motors mounted and the drives test run under straight DC current. They ran great. It was so nice to see the table moving back and forth as a result of my work. These are the first real machines I've ever made from scratch. So this is a big deal for me.

    Then I started making the new encoder covers. I'm making these out of PVC electrical boxes. They were half price of the aluminum, look better, I think, and will be easier to tweak. After they get mounted the motor seams will be sealed up with some silicone, including the brushes. The last thing I need is a fried commutator due to coolant leakage. The Y-Drive is going to be at the most at risk. I might make a little "roof" for it or something as well. Well see how it goes. Actually a gutter to catch coolant running down the drive housing would be the right ticket.

    The problems of the day were the shaft lock bushings. These came a tiny bit too big and would not tighten up. So, I wedged some aluminum duct tape in between the bushing and the pulley before screwing on the outer shell of the bushing to the inner shell and it worked!

    Design change - Need to open up the slots where the motor shaft goes through so it can be inserted with the pulley attached. Cinching up the shaft lock was a real pain with the motor half mounted to the plate.

    Also, the shafts on these motors could be longer. I would like a good 2.00 inches. Alternately the plate could be thinner or pocketed out for the motor. I'm using .375 plate. A .30 or something in that range would be fine. 0.25 seems to thin still, but could probably work fine given the box design. Sides would have to be .375 to handle the screws <IMHO>.

    I'm sure someone with an actual engineering degree could calc it.

    Little sub projects for the day -

    LSPFTD #1 -
    Had to modify a couple of 5/8 open end wrenches. Cheap made in India models. I needed them to real thin so I could tighten up the shaft lock bushings. This is when it is nice to have a mill. Ground off the chrome, put them in the vice, chucked up a .75 rougher and went at it. Killed the rougher but got them whacked down to where I could clean them up with a file.

    LSPFTD #2 -
    The bolts for the outter bearing on the X-Drive kept rubbing the pulley. So took them over to the 7x12 lathe spun it up to full speed and ground the caps down about ~0.10 using my 4 inch Makita hand held grinder. I could have used a carbide tool, but they are grade 8 and I've had a lot of troublewith grade 8 bolts in the past on that little lathe. The grinder worked well. I need to see if I can use the side handle mount hole to get it on the tool post. That would be cleaner.

    Only one store run for bolts!

    There are some pics of the drives with the belts hooked up and the PVC encoder housing getting started.

    Best,
    -jd

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    Last edited by jdelaney44; 08-13-2005 at 11:52 PM.


  7. #67
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    Default Wire & Stuff

    Tonight I drilled the holes for the liquid tight flex connections to the electrical box. Cut the servo motor wire to length. 12ga 3 conductor, stranded wire from Home Depot. Type SJOOW. Black rubber extension cord wire to me really.

    Then the shielding was put on it. I got the shielding from Mouser. So at first I thought this was going to be a real pain in the back side. But it turned out to be really easy. You just push a bulge into the braided shielding and slide that onto the cable. Do that a few times to get started. Then as enough gets on the cable you just "slide" the bulge down the shield already on the cable and smooth it out. Wear gloves or your hands get stained with the aluminum. It scrubs off but gloves would be a good idea.

    Yesterday I decided to bail on the plastic j-boxes and go to aluminum. This was after I looked at the size of the conduit. 3/4 inch weather proof flex is almost 1.25 OD. It's big. So I think the aluminum boxes might be better. They are pre threaded for the fitting too. Nice.

    Pix tonight are the holes in the cabinet, the wiring supplies, cutting the shield to length, slipping the shield onto the cable, sliding the bulge down the cable, the finished cables and the aluminum j-boxes fit to the servo motors.

    Best,
    -jd

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  8. #68
    Member Hood's Avatar
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    JD
    Looking great, wish u would hurry up though I cant wait to hear how you get on with your first cuts. That braid looks great stuff, I looked for stuff like that in the UK but couldnt find it but I am sure it must be available.
    Have you decided on software yet? I am loving Mach3, especially all the support and following it has and all the wizards make life really easy.
    Hood



  9. #69
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    Hood:

    I'm going to start with Mach. I think, maybe, I'm going to add on that closed loop board to give me some software stop for too many lost steps. The Geckos fault at 128 steps of following error but that's actually about .004 worth of following error on my setup. For what I will ever do I am sure that's fine.

    Still I'd like to see if I can get Mach to stop sooner. Maybe at .002. Not sure if that's possible. We'll see. I need to do more research on that.

    -jd



  10. #70
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    Default Revised Inner Plate Drawing

    Here is one revised drawing. This is the inner plate of the X-Drive. This is the one that mounts to the end of the table. Thought this would be the most interesting as it has the bolt holes for the table on it. I would drill the holes bigger than .375. Drilling is not that accurate for starters. The bolts are always a little off too it seems. At least the garden variety bolts I use are.

    But these are the dimensions I used and they are working now. I would print this out full scale and match it to your machine to check.

    There is a .jpg and and .igs. The .igs was the only one I could get my Turbo CAD to save and reopent reliably. I don't think their .DXF is 3D. Maybe .DXF isn't 3D, I don't even know for sure. Oh, the .igs is in that .zip.

    Let me know if you can or can't open that .igs too if you wouldn't mind.

    I'll keep dribbling drawings out as I can. I fix these things up in the wee hours on nights I can't sleep ususally, which is fairly often.

    Back to the shop to get that wiring done............ Gotta clean carpets today too. Yuk.

    OH, one last thing. I am ditching the shaft lock bushings. I ordered some new 10 tooth pulleys with .375 bores instead of the .50 I had. They got here yesterday. So I will mill a small flat on each motor shaft for the set screw in the new pulley. I've read that this works pretty well.

    Best,
    -jd

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails JDs BP J-Head CNC Conversion Blog-innerplate02-jpg  
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    Last edited by jdelaney44; 08-20-2005 at 10:29 AM.


  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdelaney44
    I will mill a small flat on each motor shaft for the set screw in the new pulley. I've read that this works pretty well.

    Best,
    -jd
    It would be much better to just drill a spot through the pulley setscrew hole into the shaft, than to remove more material than absolutley required. Non-keyed shafts, High torque, flats and a setscrew can rock, wollow and roll in constant F/R directions.

    DC



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    Default Set Screw

    Excellent suggestion. I'll try that first.

    -jd



  13. #73
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    Default Some Electrical Progress

    Well, the carpet cleaning killed the whole weekend. Then it killed me for three days. Man that's a lot of work!

    So....all I've really been able to do is get the conduits run and attached to the J-Boxes on the motors. So that's all bolted up.

    What I did here was to make up the conduits first, with the wire in them, and then mount that on the machine. The short run just went in. The long one (12 feet) required help with a fish tape and some soap. Both the motor wire and the encoder wire are in there. Both are shielded. For the encoder wire I'm using Alpha Wire P/N 2424C which is an 18ga foil shielded communication wire. It came from www.mouser.com.

    Oh,forgot, I covered the shielding with heat shrink tubing. I had 1/2 inch heat shrink. It was a tight fit so it had to go on in pieces with overlaps. Once it was on the cable loose I hit it with the $19.00 heat gun from Kragen and it's nice & tight.

    The conduit is 3/4 in. liquid tight flex with the metal inner jacket.

    So each cable is shielded and they are in a metal conduit. Should be OK based on the reading I have done. If my Geckos freak out, this will be the first thing I check. The shields will be grounded at the control box only to prevent a loop. This is what has been recomended by many people.

    That's it for now.

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  14. #74
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    Default More Electrical

    It is so bizarre shifting into wire mode after so many months of cutting metal.

    Today the mounting plate for the Geckos and the Sound Logic break out board was completed and mounted in the control box and wired up to the motor and encoder wires.

    The DC power lead was made up as well.

    The Geckos are mounted to the plate with 6-32 x 3/8 machine screws. The plate is 0.25.

    The SL board is mounted on 8-32 x 1" screws. Nuts were used to lock the screw to the plate and hold the SL board against the head of the screws thus creating a stand off.

    All screw holes in the plate are tapped to accept their respective screws. Used the Milwaukee drill motor again. Got too agressive once and busted a 6-32 tap.

    The plate is mounted to the back panel of the box with 5 12-24 x 3/8 screws. The back plate is tapped. Hand tapped on this one. These are through and aluminum angle that is through bolted to the plate with three 12-24 screws & nuts.

    Then there are the Diet Coke can bottom heat sinks. I actually think the plate has enough surface area to deal with the heat from the Geckos. But a little more surface area couldn't hurt. I don't really have room for big Pentium heat sinks to tell you the truth.

    Next is the motor end of the wires and then its time to fire up the PC.

    Pics below.

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    JDs BP J-Head CNC Conversion Blog-cntrlbd208282005-jpg  


  15. #75
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    Default

    So....I write you all from the PC that is running on the machine. No pics tonight. Tomorrow a.m. will be the final hook ups to the PC and the servo motors. Then a little testing and clean up. The Garage is a disaster area.

    OBTW - My best wishes to the folks in the south. We sent $100.00 to the Red Cross and will be sending another $100.00 at work on the next check. Work is matching too. So that'll be $400 on account of my little tiny chip of the world. Not bragging, just challenging anyone who can give to give. Please give if you can. Anything will help. If you can't you can't and that's totally OK too.

    I dropped about another $700.00 this week on parts, Windows XP, a new flat panel monitor, keyboard, track ball, and misc. fastners.

    Interesting commentary there eh? Well we do what we can even if imperfect.

    Still gotta pony up for Mach 3 tomorrow. I've settled on Mach. If for no other reason than all my other machines are on Windows XP Pro and I'd rather not hassle even a DOS box if I can avoid it.

    We are doing Red Hat at work for our Oracle ERP project. Gawd! What a frigin' job. We've had a DBA on hourly for three days just getting a restore from Oracle's data center in Austin to our test machine done. Then there are the RH & Oracle patches. It's just messy still. They are trying to catch up to Microsoft in this area but they have a ways to go.

    I think us Windows people are just lazy. Which equals efficient. I'd rather let Redmond do the work.

    But....if all goes well this weekend I will be very close to done.

    Best,
    -jd



  16. #76
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    Default Reversed Supply To Geckos.......

    I hate it when this happens.

    Well .... I looked and checked and checked and looked some more and missed it.

    I got the polarity reversed out of the supply to the Geckos. Not sure what happenned as a result. Something went *POP* in the control cabinet. Could have been 50 things. Could have just been the fuse. It's got a ceramic body. I have heard them make noises like that.

    Now I have to bench test the geckos again I guess.

    I am getting about 125 ohms across the power terminal of one of the Geckos now. I've posted on the Gecko forum at Yahoo and DIY-CNC to see if anyone knows what I should be getting or has any other clues. I am praying that these things have a diode across the supply to protect them from such a thing. If so, that's what blew the fuse. (15A Fuse). If not then I've turned something in there into a 125 ohm resistor.

    This is what I'm worried about. I've done this before building things with power transistors. You blow it and it either goes wide open or something fuses in there making it into either a perfect conductor or a bit of a resistor. Not pretty.

    Gecko is local to me so I'll probably just drive over there on Tuesday if these things are toast.

    Well I need to get some more fuses today. Disconnect the Geckos and test the power supply to see that it's still OK. Then I guess I'll feed some juice to the motors and make sure we don't have any dead shorts there either.

    If the drives are toasted I'm going to go with the Rutex for the higher voltage. So that will mean transformer replacement on the power supply as well. These motors are 100V. My capacitors are something like 90V so I'd like to get as close to that as possible. The Geckos will run at 75 volts. Rated at 80 but I was told not to go one volt over 80, ever. So 75 seems safe.

    Any suggestions out there?

    -jd



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    Unhappy More Gecko Testing

    My reading was off last night. I'm getting 25 ohms on a meter powered by a 3V battery and an open circuit on my digital meter with a 9V battery. Still waiting to hear if the voltage of the meter makes a difference.

    Today's readings are better 'cause I'm not poking around with a probe in hard to get at places. I pulled the drives out and bench tested them. Checked it all at least twice.

    Powered the drives with about 33V unregulated DC. No other wires connected. Results:

    ~1.2 amps current draw dc
    One drive will not light the fault light and it should
    All three have ~5v dc at the encoder supply pins
    They all get hot fast just sitting there

    So I believe all three are busted and need to go home for repair. We'll see what Gecko says. Yay.

    I'm so mad at myself I could spit.

    Oh well.....

    -jd



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    Default Yup Toast

    Well, I have exchanged several messages on this one today. My bet is that I am out three G340s. So....now what? If I have to buy new gear, I may go with the Rutex to get at the higher voltage for my 120V motors.

    Hmmmm?

    -jd



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    Default Power Supply Redux

    So the Geckos are on the way home. I ordered a new set of G320s. If the 340s can be fixed I'll have spares or the beginning of the next project.

    While researching that little explosion I found some additional advice on the in rush limit circuit on the power supply. That's the problem with this sometimes. You don't know what you don't know.

    Seems it is better to have the resistor and relay on the A/C side. Makes sense. The transformer is there to soak up some of the surge when the relay cuts out the resistor bank. No problem. I built the supply in a fairly modular fashion. So with no soldering I should be able to reconfigure it properly. So tonight I began teardown.

    I will first rework the schematic so I know what the heck I am trying to do. Then I can rewire it to the new design.

    BTW - Green Loctite works! I could not get the nuts off of two of the 1/4-20 studs I mounted the supply on. I ended up shearing two of the studs off with the wrench. No harm, just install new studs.

    Pics of the supply below.

    1 - The supply with the circuit board removed
    2 - Front of the circuit board
    3 - Back of the circuit board
    4 - Terminals where the transformer windings are ganged together
    5 - The 3 x 18000uf 100V cap bundle
    6 - The relays, one of which will be eliminated

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  20. #80
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    just out of curiosity why did you stay with the geckos and not go to rutex like you where threatining??

    thanks
    Michael T.
    "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!"


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