Series 1 Boss 3 Head Rebuild (2J Head) - Stuck Here.

[mactec54]

1875

Sounds like it went together very well, the offset mounting plate is because the switches are so big, I used to change the switches to some very small micro switches I will take a photo of my whole mounting plate, the total with the cover is around .500 thick

You won't need the very top switch just the 2 on the side

[mactec54]

1875

Here is what I did to some of the Boss machines I rebuilt, the switches are very small & very good quality, more than 20 years on some that I installed like this,with no problems, these were only for the Z axes

[1875]

That's pretty sleek. I should have more time in the next couple weeks to get back on this. Wiring it all up should be more exciting

[1875]

Hi All, I'm back after some personal setbacks. Things are back in order and I still have this machine to get going. After this long, I've forgotten what the fastener torques should be. I plan to get the head together this weekend.

I'll need to torque the spindle nut, the back gear assembly nut, and then the quill nose cone. I think those are the only critical torques. Also, I still have in the back of my mind there was some special procedure for putting the upper head casting on right. Something about floating them in? I suspect there is just a precaution to prevent any side binding by not having things lined up correctly.

Thanks for all the help from the forum.

[mactec54]

I'll need to torque the spindle nut, the back gear assembly nut, and then the quill nose cone. I think those are the only critical torques. Also, I still have in the back of my mind there was some special procedure for putting the upper head casting on right. Something about floating them in? I suspect there is just a precaution to prevent any side binding by not having things lined up correctly.

I don't have the manuals now,so can't check to see if there is a listing for the torque for these nuts, A minimum of 60 to 80 ft pounds, would get you somewhere close to what they need to be, the Quill end nut just the same do it up as tight as you can, you need a special pin wrench to do this right, they are easy enough to make, this puts the preload on the Bearings, so you need them tight

As for floating the housing with the splines, all you do is grease the splines, with a quality grease, plus the inside splines, assemble and rotate the spindle with the housing nuts just loose, then tighten them up, check there is no binding, have your quill about half out when doing this

Wipe off excess grease when finished

[1875]

I found an extra part and don't know if it belongs to the mill or just some rogue piece from something else? Does this look familiar?

[mactec54]

I found an extra part and don't know if it belongs to the mill or just some rogue piece from something else? Does this look familiar?

Looks like spindle drive keys

[1875]

Edit: Someone pointed me to this, a mite-bite work holding clamp: Screw-Mount Toe Clamps | MSCDirect.com

Thanks for the reply, mactec54! I'm almost there...

Spindle drive key? Where would that be located, on the pulley at the top or somewhere around the back gear? I recall two tabs fastened to the housing that locks the back gear hub, and I think the spindle pulley had a regular type of key on the spindle pulley hub. The hub fit the spindle hex pattern. The drive keys for the tool are installed and look different.

I thought it might have come from the quill switch area as a stop.

OR, I recall now that my back gear lever was missing the adjustable stop (the part with the hole that the pin goes into the hold it in place). I made one when I first bought the mill. This piece looks a little small, but is that it?

[mactec54]

Edit: Someone pointed me to this, a mite-bite work holding clamp: Screw-Mount Toe Clamps | MSCDirect.com

Thanks for the reply, mactec54! I'm almost there...

Spindle drive key? Where would that be located, on the pulley at the top or somewhere around the back gear? I recall two tabs fastened to the housing that locks the back gear hub, and I think the spindle pulley had a regular type of key on the spindle pulley hub. The hub fit the spindle hex pattern. The drive keys for the tool are installed and look different.

I thought it might have come from the quill switch area as a stop.

OR, I recall now that my back gear lever was missing the adjustable stop (the part with the hole that the pin goes into the hold it in place). I made one when I first bought the mill. This piece looks a little small, but is that it?

They do look like a mite-bite clamp as well, and may well be because of the taper on the one face, & the slot for the screw, some spindle keys looked like that as well, if you have the 30 taper then the drive keys are right where you put the tool in the spindle

[1875]

I got the head together last Friday and wired up the VFD to run it in - it is so much quieter than when I got it (imagine roller skates with steel wheels on asphalt). There is just a slight rattle from the motor pulley in the 700-1000 RPM range. I did not replace the bushing there but have a new busing kit for when it really needs it.

Now I'm off to layout the rest of the electronics and control. I really like the way you've done your's Mactec54. I was planning on putting the smaller, original cabinet on the side rather than the back, and have all the electronics in there.

[Turbohoolik]

I got the z-axis ball screw back together, 160 balls in each of the two circuits (80 big and 80 small)...Maybe someone removed the quill entirely and learned about the balls, and then tried to put it back together?

Hi.
I bought broken Series 1 CNC, almost same numbers on ballscrew nut:
NSK Japan
W5001W - 1PT - UPZ
8N8 - 741

Unfortunately my ballscrew screw is cracked so I took it all apart.
I lost some balls but after counting I got 180 big and 138 small ones.
But yeah I need new ballscruw assembly.
Does anybody know where I could get it?

[mactec54]

Hi.
I bought broken Series 1 CNC, almost same numbers on ballscrew nut:
NSK Japan
W5001W - 1PT - UPZ
8N8 - 741

Unfortunately my ballscrew screw is cracked so I took it all apart.
I lost some balls but after counting I got 180 big and 138 small ones.
But yeah I need new ballscruw assembly.
Does anybody know where I could get it?

This is a very old Thread

For which axis do you need a Ballscrew, post a Photo of what you need.

[Turbohoolik]

Yeah I know it is old thread but I thought it would be good idea to have information in one place.

I need Z-axis ballscrow assembly as in 1875 picture in post #20
Got similar number as 1875 in post #20
NSK Japan
W5001W - 1PT - UPZ
7N3 - G13


My numbers:
NSK Japan
W5001W - 1PT - UPZ
8N8 - 741

[mactec54]

Yeah I know it is old thread but I thought it would be good idea to have information in one place.

I need Z-axis ballscrow assembly as in 1875 picture in post #20
Got similar number as 1875 in post #20
NSK Japan
W5001W - 1PT - UPZ
7N3 - G13


My numbers:
NSK Japan
W5001W - 1PT - UPZ
8N8 - 741

Are yes, I have (2) of those that I may sell, (1) is used but in very good condition, the other was noisy but still worked very well

[mactec54]

Yeah I know it is old thread but I thought it would be good idea to have information in one place.

I need Z-axis ballscrow assembly as in 1875 picture in post #20
Got similar number as 1875 in post #20
NSK Japan
W5001W - 1PT - UPZ
7N3 - G13


My numbers:
NSK Japan
W5001W - 1PT - UPZ
8N8 - 741

Here are the Photos

[Turbohoolik]

I got in really good condition ballscrow from Mactec54, thank you!

But if there isn't eny more good condition ballscrows in the market but you need one then contakt local NSK dealer, they don't offer this ballcrow but NSK factory can reproduce it.