Weiss WMD30LV conversion project - Page 5


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Thread: Weiss WMD30LV conversion project

  1. #49
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    2.5mm on the "as cast" surfaces is probably within the allowed variance on the castings.

    that said, there seems to be several casting suppliers for these machines, as well as different "versions" from weiss.



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    It looks like the green cross slide is a bit thinner. If you look at the leadscrew nut pocket the metal on the top is vary thin. You can also see a ramp up to meet the table ways and the blue one is flat.

    I would say the green one is a few MM thiner around the nut.



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    Looks that way. My saddle is pretty much flat topped and level with the bottom of the table dovetails. Digits' is lower than the table dovetails by quite a bit. That will surely make the conversion a bit easier. Also the corners around the dovetails look sharper on the Warco machine, mine's more rough and rounded.



  4. #52
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    I took my whole table apart last night to photograph everything - I'd agree, there isn't much metal you could remove from the table to make room for bigger nuts.

    Oddly, even though my mill does have holes in the rear of the column and the base for the Y-axis screw to poke out the back, there's no hole in one of the ribs that reinforces the base, so you can't poke a screw all the way through.

    It did also occur to me, that it might not be too hard to just buy a chunk of iron and make a new saddle on the mill in its manual form...



  5. #53
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    Good point, but to be honest I'd rather go with your previous suggestion and just put some linear rails on the X, lifting the table a lot in the process. Better end result and probably less work.
    I checked my machine again last night, and I was wrong - you could get a 20mm screw through the back of the column. I didn't check the alignment of the hole with the current screw though, or if there were any ribs in the way.

    I haven't taken the whole table off yet. How much did yours weigh, and how did you do it exactly? I don't want to damage anything when the last bit of engagement drops out.
    Oh - let's see those photos too!



  6. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by LongRat View Post
    Good point, but to be honest I'd rather go with your previous suggestion and just put some linear rails on the X, lifting the table a lot in the process. Better end result and probably less work.
    I checked my machine again last night, and I was wrong - you could get a 20mm screw through the back of the column. I didn't check the alignment of the hole with the current screw though, or if there were any ribs in the way.

    I haven't taken the whole table off yet. How much did yours weigh, and how did you do it exactly? I don't want to damage anything when the last bit of engagement drops out.
    Oh - let's see those photos too!
    I don't know if it's the right way to do it, but I unscrewed both X-handles and removed the bearing blocks. There were only 3 sets of thrust bearings, so don't spend half an hour searching for the 4th when trying to reassemble like I did!

    I then used an electric screwdriver to unscrew the X-screw all the way - as I figured that if I droped the table on to it, it'd deform or shear right off. Then I just slid the entire table off - and I could just about lift it - I reckon it's heavier than my 40kg vice

    When reassembling, I removed the jib-strip and slid the table back on before slipping the jib back in. Watch out for the brass pusher rods between the table locks and the jib - they'll probably fall out if you turn the table over.

    To remove the saddle, you'll need to unscrew at least the Y-nut. Probably safer to remove both at once - but don't let the Y-one fall off into the base casting or you'll have to dig it out again!

    I'll happily post pics over the weekend - though they're nothing special.



  7. #55
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    Here are a few of my pics:

    Table off:




    You can just see the hole in the column and base blocked off by the rib at the back - I think the rib's what stops you cranking the table into the column.

    Saddle...

    Y-nut is bolted on through the slot in that dove-tail...


    Table - really need a wide-angle lens for this!





  8. #56
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    Hi LongRat - any news on your conversion yet?

    The wet, windy 'perfect-milling' weather led me astray and I've kinda spent my ballscrew fund on a DRO



  9. #57
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    Today my screws and bearing blocks all arrived. I'll document it tomorrow, with pics. Needless to say I am very happy with the parts received. I guess I won't know how good they really are until they are installed and working, but visual impressions are very good. The dimensions are spot on as the drawings I sent him, and the quality of the machining is excellent.
    I haven't been able to do anything much without these bits, now I should be able to make decent progress and hopefully have the machine running in a few weeks.



  10. #58
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    Ok, so here is the shipment of linear motion stuff I got from Linearmotionbearings. Remember more than half of this stuff is to build a CNC router, nothing to do with the Weiss mill project. The fact that all this stuff cost me only £650 including $200 USD in shipping cost is pretty amazing.

    1) Ballscrews - 16mm on X, 20mm on Y, 25mm on Z. I went with the 5mm pitch screws all round. All of the nuts have PTFE wipers at both ends and are ground on every face. They feel smooth and tight, and seem pretty nice. A note - if you go with the 10mm pitch as I did for the router, the nut is a lot longer. All of the end machining on the screws is very clean and the threads are all perfect.

    2) Bearing blocks. There's a pair of angular contact bearings in each drive-end block, these are Chinese bearings but seem nice enough by appearance. The blocks are variable quality, some have heavy tooling marks and some have more of a ground finish. There is some machining debris inside these blocks, and the bearings are open on the inside. It is ESSENTIAL to strip these blocks before use, clean all the crap out, then re-lube and rebuild. Not unlike the mill itself! Still, as long as you know this, well worth the price I would say.
    The free-end blocks are similar, but the bearings are NOT. One radial bearing in each, but these are genuine NSK. Really didn't expect that and it is a pleasant surprise.

    3) Couplings. Aluminium, helical type. Only $5 each, but pretty small and feel flexy. I can't see them handling the torques required for this build, maybe on a 12mm screw but anything bigger and these couplers might become the rigidity bottleneck. I'm not sure if I will use them.

    4) Linear rails. Only going to use them for the secondary Z axis, the rest are for the router. The runners have wiper seals at both ends and everything feels tight and smooth. These are crazy cheap, but seem good to me!





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    I'm glad the ballscrews seem good - if the bearing blocks are a bit iffy, do you think it might just be worth ordering the screws and then making up some bearing blocks myself?



  12. #60
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    No, the blocks are very cheap and the bearings themselves seem to be nice. For the price, it would be a great deal for the bearings alone - without the blocks. I don't have a problem with the blocks at all, just that you must strip them out and reassemble them before use. I actually found a big chunk of bamboo in one of the bearings! Also, mine were assembled the wrong way round too.



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Weiss WMD30LV conversion project

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