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  1. #261
    Gold Member doorknob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Turkey View Post
    My new $26.00 breakout board arrived the other day and so this morning I decided I'd wire her up and get my limits to work. After removing the old breakout and having a look at the new one I seem to have hit a little bit of a stumbling block. The new board has 4 outputs per axis, however, the drivers have 5 inputs.

    I searched around for a while to get a better understanding of the boards, but without any markings on the driver board (other than TONSEN) I'm having a bit of trouble wrapping my head around why there are 5 wires and not either 4 or 6?

    Does anyone think they may be able to help me breathe life back into the beast?

    The pins leading to the drivers from my old breakout board seam to read: 5V, GND, CK, CW, EN. VERY hard to read.

    The pins on my new breakout board read XN, XD, XS, XE (X obviously the axis)

    That is about all of the info I have,.. ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers, Dave.
    My best guess of the mapping of the old board to the new board (since this is just a guess, don't take it as gospel):

    Old New Meaning
    ---- ------ ----------
    5V (none) +5 volt power supply?
    GND XN (?) common ground
    CK XS clock (step) pulse
    CW XD direction signal
    EN XE enable signal

    My recommendation would be for you to try and verify that mapping by probing the output of your new breakout board (while jogging or running a test program) with (preferably) an oscilloscope or a multimeter and logic probe before hooking it up to the motor drivers. If you are not comfortable with basic electronics, maybe you can locate a friend who is, and who can help you with that testing.



  2. #262
    Registered Cold Turkey's Avatar
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    Thanks so much for the useful response doorknob. I spent all day working on it and managed to sort it out. I figured the 5+ and ground straight away, then I got the engage. I figured the remainders had to be step and direction so I just played around until I got it to work.

    Last edited by Cold Turkey; 05-24-2011 at 06:09 PM.


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    Default cnc 3040 (yoocnc drivers and breakout board)

    hello,
    i also have similar machine, and here some points i check befor operate:

    1. search on rails and ballscrew for any dirt or package leftovers.
    2. try to move all axis by hand (without stepper conected) all the way, min to max, trying to see if there is any hard spots.
    3. if it is not smood then its a mechnical miss alignment that have to be deal before conecting the stepmotors.
    4. conect the stepmotors and Tighten the small screws on the Coupling .

    5. set the correct parameters on mach3 - this one only if you have yoocnc boards like in picture and stepmotors 57BYGH488-02BE
    step pulse= 10 and dir pulse = 3 (this numbers are an add to the default mach3 pulse wide, very unique setting for yoocnc )





    i hope this help.

    BTW
    i think there are no optocoupling in the interface board, just pullup resistors. anyone set limit swiches ? how did you find the pinout ? its seem all the left side is ground..

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill-a23052011095-jpg   Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill-a23052011096-jpg   Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill-a23052011097-jpg   Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill-a23052011098-jpg  

    Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill-a23052011100-jpg   Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill-untitled1-jpg   Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill-untitled2-jpg  
    Last edited by galoz; 05-25-2011 at 05:42 AM. Reason: fix spelling


  4. #264
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    That's great - just what I was looking for !!!
    Many thanks.



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    Controller from galoz's pictures is totally different than the one I have. Mine is a single board (not counting the board for mill speed control), but his (or her) controller has 3 Motor Driver and 1 Controller all separated.

    And some updates on my machine. The seller send me a new Y-axis lead screw assemble, and it is now moving smoothly after replaced it. Then somehow the Z become a problem, which sometimes will suddenly change direction. Got the controller replaced and now everything work perfectly.

    My only complaint now is I still unable to get the table level enough. Everytime I try to etch a pcb, I need manually fine tune the pcb by stacking papers under the board at different locations to make it almost level, otherwise some part will not be etched and some part may cutting too deep and cut through the board. I'm wondering is there anything like a "floating head" which can adjust the cut depth by itself, may be by sensing the pressure......



  6. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by StupidPig View Post
    Controller from galoz's pictures is totally different than the one I have. Mine is a single board (not counting the board for mill speed control), but his (or her) controller has 3 Motor Driver and 1 Controller all separated.

    And some updates on my machine. The seller send me a new Y-axis lead screw assemble, and it is now moving smoothly after replaced it. Then somehow the Z become a problem, which sometimes will suddenly change direction. Got the controller replaced and now everything work perfectly.

    My only complaint now is I still unable to get the table level enough. Everytime I try to etch a pcb, I need manually fine tune the pcb by stacking papers under the board at different locations to make it almost level, otherwise some part will not be etched and some part may cutting too deep and cut through the board. I'm wondering is there anything like a "floating head" which can adjust the cut depth by itself, may be by sensing the pressure......
    I doubt it, the reason being that the forces generated while cutting material wont be constant as you do things like cut accross gaps and the like.

    If I was in your situation I would look to find some sort of new table to bolt on top of existing table, then taking a leveling pass accross the whole board to set your surface level to your cutter.

    materials: plastic decking lumber, plastic or wood cutting board (depending on size of your table), laminated wood (think table top), or just more extruded aluminum just like the current table (I get my pieces as scrap from ebay super cheap)..

    just some thoughts.



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    Quote Originally Posted by StupidPig View Post
    The 10-pin pad at upper left corner look very suspicious, so I give the DMM a try. haha, bingo. those are the pad for input signals.

    The pinout is as follow just if someone needs it:

    REF 13 11 X GND
    REF 15 12 10 GND


    I bought CNC 3020T router and it has exactly the same stepper driver board made by YOOCNC - T62-3AX

    Sorry, I am new in CNC so I have some questions:

    1) How can I use that 10-pin input signal pad to implement manual tool change / Z axis homing feature for my router?

    just give me the right direction how to do that: hardware part / setting Mach3 options etc...

    REF 13 11 X GND
    REF 15 12 10 GND


    2) The big problem with this CNC 3020T routers are 4 wire cables connecting driver board to step motors.

    I have replaced already 1 cut wire for Z axis

    I also searched in the local shops for appropriate cables in replacement of the factory one, but have not found them, all they are too thick to fit


    What about to use network UTP cables, 2 twisted wire in replacement of 1 factory wire. UTP cables look more reliable, arn't they?

    Anybody used it before?

    Thanks




    Last edited by Rdecode; 11-22-2011 at 04:48 AM.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Rdecode View Post
    I bought CNC 3020T router and it has exactly the same stepper driver board made by YOOCNC - T62-3AX

    Sorry, I am new in CNC so I have some questions:

    1) How can I use that 10-pin input signal pad to implement manual tool change / Z axis homing feature for my router?

    just give me the right direction how to do that: hardware part / setting Mach3 options etc...

    REF 13 11 X GND
    REF 15 12 10 GND


    2) The big problem with this CNC 3020T routers are 4 wire cables connecting driver board to step motors.

    I have replaced already 1 cut wire for Z axis

    I also searched in the local shops for appropriate cables in replacement of the factory one, but have not found them, all they are too thick to fit


    What about to use network UTP cables, 2 twisted wire in replacement of 1 factory wire. UTP cables look more reliable, arn't they?

    Anybody used it before?

    Thanks





    Please, could somebody answer my question:

    How can I use that 10-pin input signal pad to implement manual tool change / Z axis homing feature for my router?


    thanks



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    Default I have yoocnc 6040..

    Hello yoocnc.

    I want to connect to limist switch..

    Where is the place to connect?

    Is there a detailed manaul for the controller?

    Thanks for your attention.



  10. #270
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    Hi, I'm a new forum member and am new to CNC milling/engraving. I've been looking at these cheap (affordable) CNC machines on ebay and am wondering why the examples in this thread are generally limited to flat outline-type engraving? How do these machines fare when in comes to more complex 3 dimensional milled objects? I'm interested in doing small prototype plastic parts that'll involve some curved surfaces on the Z plane and an overall Z axis object depth of around 40mm.

    It looks in the examples here as though they'll be more than capable of this:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tchlink:top:en

    The other question I have which perhaps should be asked in another section of the forum is how one converts CAD files to suitable format? Is this a complex process?

    Last edited by droogle; 02-04-2012 at 02:05 PM.


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    Hello, I apologize if my avence English is not great because I'm French.

    Regarding the card YOOCNC T62-3AX it is possible by adding pin on the existing circuit to have 5 entries.

    Above the logo YOOCNC there are 10 contacts on all optocouplers.

    The pin 10 is connected with the emergency aret therefore should be selected.

    I have attached a schema that is easier for explanations



    Francais:
    Bonjour, je m'excuse par avence si mon anglais n'est pas super car je suis français.

    Pour ce qui est de la carte YOOCNC T62-3ax il est possible en ajoutant des broche sur le circuit existant d'avoir 5 entrées.

    Au dessus du logo YOOCNC il y a 10 contacts tous sur des optocoupleurs.

    La broche 10 est branché avec l'aret d'urgence donc il faudra choisir.

    J'ai joint un schémas c'est plus simple pour les explications.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill-exemple-jpg  
    Last edited by olivier.34; 02-05-2012 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Oublie de dire que la broche 10 sert pour l'arret d'urgence.


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    I have this exact tonsen cnc mill and I have it almost fully working but the router speed control I have no control on, I plug in Parallel port and the router starts spinning right away. I can control everything else, and just want to know if anyone else has had this problem and if so what changes to the settings were made?



  13. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by McGiver30 View Post
    I have this exact tonsen cnc mill and I have it almost fully working but the router speed control I have no control on, I plug in Parallel port and the router starts spinning right away. I can control everything else, and just want to know if anyone else has had this problem and if so what changes to the settings were made?
    I was looking at this machine , the spindle is manual control only.



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    Default Re: Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill

    I bought a 3020T, it has Tonsen driver and control board.
    Two of my driver boards are dead and no solution to replacement.
    It's TA3977.
    Picture included.
    Has anyone found a replacement site or a suitable replacement board?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill-tonsen-jpg  


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    Default Re: Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill

    Hello srk2040, you can buy the board from the link below. I have purchased a couple of boards from here as I have had a similar issue. the boards are pricey unless you can find them on toaboa.
    2.5A stepping stepper motor driver for tonsen mini cnc engraving machine accessory of cnc router machine-in Other Electronic Components from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

    I found the tonsen machines to be best for doing small parts. I had issues with missing steps. Replaced all tonsen boards with gecko ones recently.



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    Default Re: Tonsen - eBay ReadyToRun Mill

    Yes, I found the replacement board from Alibaba, soon after I posted the message. Since then the replacement boards have tested it with much success.
    I'm still learning how to make this machine work to my satisfaction but having hard time working with Mach3 in general since there's lack of information on both youtube and here on cnczone.
    Specifically, I'm trying to use it for PCB and I have no idea how to set the depth and home area. It's been hit or miss thing and I wish something was more consistent with Mach3.

    When I purchased this, it came without the end stop and I plan to modify this with end stop and z-axis touch homing sensor. Again Youtube shows lot of these modification are done but it lacks detail for me to duplicate their modifications.



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