Z spindle bracket complete I’m able to attach spindle plate and bolt top ball screw bearing bracket to the top plate.
Finished z balls screw bracket. Clearance was issue. Grinder got real work out.
Z spindle bracket complete I’m able to attach spindle plate and bolt top ball screw bearing bracket to the top plate.
Mounted servo for Z ball screw.
With the column now on base I needed to make covers for the X cars. Facing upside down I had to cover them to keep them from getting full of chips. My chip drawer had to be changed from my my original designed flood coolant tank and pump. Originally I was going to use air pump but it didn’t have flow that I’m looking for. The drains holes for coolant when washing chips down would allow coolant to miss draw so I had to add defectors on bottom of enclosure tray. I made motor covers and tray for X servo motor and Y motor. I’ve seen pictures of Tormach motor cover being used for tool tray and copied the idea.
I finished mounting x servo motor.
I looked at a lot of different counter weight options and they all work but I want to be able to have adjustability. Getting gas spring exactly right in my experience is 2 to 3 sets. I don’t have room to hang weight off the back. So I going to use torsion springs. My spindle is going to weigh 150 plus so I settled on overhead door springs. They will give me the adjustment flexibility that I’m looking for. I also going to use this 3/4 hp submersible pump for flood system.
Hi,
why bother? Is your Z axis particularly heavy? The whole point of having a ballscrew is to convert a small torque exhibited by the servo/stepper and have that translate into a much MUCH
greater force, albeit at a slower speed.
A 5mm pitch ballscrew (note: does not depend on diameter) will exert 1250N (125kg force) of thrust for every 1Nm applied.
My 750w Servos are rated at 2.4Nm, so even if my Z axis including spindle and headstock weighs 125kg, the about 1/3 of the servos torque is required just 'to hold it up' but leaves another 1.4Nm to
accelerate it.....more than enough. I am in the process of fitting a new spindle (3.5kW, 380VAC, 40,000rpm) weighing 22kg, and another 12kg for the mounting block Over the next month or so I hope to have cast (in grey cast iron) a new
headstock which will weigh 50kg. That will bring my Z axis weight to about 94kg including the Z axis saddle, scarcely enough to even bother my Z axis servo. I do not have a counterweight or
gas springs at the moment and neither do I plan on having them when I fit my new spindle.....any day now!!!
The spindle monitoring, air solenoids and circulation pump are nearly done.
Craig
PS: Correction, just had a phone call to tell me that the 24VDC coils for the Seal Air and Taper Blow air solenoids have arrived from Auckland......so all the bits I need to fit my new spindle are done.
Been a long time coming, had a real battle and hiccupp with NZ Customs (my fault) when the spindle came into NZ, and there is always other new bit to buy!!!!
Last edited by joeavaerage; 05-22-2024 at 04:57 PM.
I’m trying to find cable connectors for Allen Bradley servo’s but I’m not having any luck. I have cables just need the connectors. Thanks
Hi,
I had similar problems trying to find either cables or plugs to make my own cables for an Allen Bradley servo of the same era.
They are not the same as yours but broadly similar.
In the end I found a Souriau connector for the encoder cable. I suspect that both Amphenol and Cannon both do an identical plug, but the Souriau one fitted my budget.
I found a listing in the ITT Cannon catalogue for the main plug but could find no supplier that stocked them. My guess is that they were made on demand and have been
discontinued but remain in the catalogue should anyone order them. This would require that I place an order with ITT Cannon direct and they would ask how many thousand I would like.
Thus, I could not find the main plug, but I did find a genuine Allen Bradley cable/plug, new old stock on Ebay. Cost $150USD from memory. Didn't much like paying for it, but needs must.
Never regretted it as I have used that servo for years since.
The point being that you may just have to bite the bullet and buy genuine cables...expensive I know, but what choice do you have?
This is why I like Delta servos. I buy new and the kit comes complete with servo motor, the drive and the cables. Also they put in the CN1 DB plug. No hidden costs.
Craig
Hi,
where are you looking?
I found this, and its only one of dozens of similar 17 contact circular connectors:
https://nz.element14.com/intercontec...ble/dp/3703148
and this is the drawings that apply to this connector:
https://www.te.com/commerce/Document...35N00410235000
Does it match?
Craig
Hi,
could this be the power plug:
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3...4xNzE4MTQwNTk5
Craig
Hi,
I think disregard the previous post, that one is 8 pin (4 power 4 signal). This one is I think correct, it is 9 pin (4 power and 5 signal)
with I think the same layout as your servo but with only two of the signal pins populated.
https://nz.element14.com/intercontec...ble/dp/3727960
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3...4xNzE4MTQwNTk5
Craig
PS: No, sorry, while I think this plug has the correct pin count and layout, this particular plug is quick-release whereas you require a threaded connector. Still I think we
are on to the right manufacturer.
This one:
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3...4xNzE4MTQwNTk5
https://www.te.com/en/product-BSA082N00590235000.html
Last edited by joeavaerage; 09-06-2024 at 10:56 PM.
Hi
I haven’t been able to find any thing so far on the internet. Only thing coming up are complete cable and none of them look correct. I appreciate the help because I’m not sure what to look for. Also I’m not sure how to run my y axis cables so they don’t just hang down loose.Thanks
Hi,
I thought you said you only wanted the connectors?
Have you had a look at the links I've posted. I think I have correctly identified the two required plugs....and that was only from the picture of your servo.
You can measure them and compare them with the mechanical drawings of the plugs I have listed.
I rather suspect that both are for crimp connectors, in which case the crimp tool will cost way WAY WAY more than the plugs.
These are the joys of buying old second hand servos.
Craig
Hi Craig
Looks like MP- series servos use SpeedTEC DIN Connectors 2090. I finally found manual for these that show cables. I wasn’t able to download drawings from your link. But it looks promising. I didn’t buy these servos they were given to me. I appreciate your taking the time to help me find these. Thanks
Hi,
That tends to confirm my belief that I have found the right connectors.series servos use SpeedTEC DIN Connectors 2090.
I have excerpted the drawing of a plug and note the TE Connectivity part number. Now compare to the manufacturers part number in the Element14 listing. Note the prices are in New Zealand dollars, I use the NZ Elelment14 website.
Element14 is world wide. Its known as Newark Electronics in the US and Farnell in the UK. It is available where you are. Just visit your local Element14 website and enter 3703331 as the Element14 product code. Pay by credit card and
its on its way.
Note there are 28 available in stock at a price of $55.84NZD (inc sales tax) or $34.06USD. If you buy above a certain minimum, I think about $60 then its freight free. I buy from Element14 for business weekly. Most parts, even from the UK, I get within
5 days, but have found some of these circular connectors must be sourced from the manufacturers warehouse and can take up to two weeks.
This particular connector has a number of different mating styles. In particular you can get variants with 'SpeedTec triple start thread'. You need to look very closely at the thread of the power connector. Is it triple start? If it is
then there is a different part number that applies, but if its single start, which I think more likely, then this is the right part number.
Should add that these connector do not come with pins. You have to buy those separately. There are a number of different styles. You'll have to search the Element14
website to find them.
Craig
When I build my spindle I had several goals.
2 speed - 0-2500 2500-10,000 servo is 5000 rpm so I went with 1-2 2-1.
I didn’t want to take belts off to change so I went with 2 speed transmission. Wanted to use belts so I didn’t need to run gears in oil and noise.
I wanted to water cool the spindle and also to be able to heat water so I didn’t have to run spindle to heat it up and keep constant temperature.
Added encoder since controller has input for encoder
Not having to take multi stage air cylinder off to change belts.
I found if I have to disassemble something to use it I tend to use as is instead of taking time to change setup’s. It was a lot more work up front but I’m glad I did it.
Worked on spindle water cooling tank. The pump is high pressure, 130 psi. I used the same pump on my router for the last 6 years and it works well. I tried several pumps that just couldn’t get flow thru 6mm tubing. Installed 220v hot water tank heating element. I wanted something cheap and easy to find. I fired up pump to check for leaks. The digital display also has set points to control water temperature and I mounted it next to touch screen display. Mounted pressure display on spindle to monitor flow.
Hi,
heater in the tank??
My new spindle once its been running for about three hours, I'm concerned that the cooling water is getting to hot. So much so that the last job I did that took nearly eight hours continuous
I mounted a domestic fan to increase the cooling.
I have determined that for long duration tool paths I require a heat exchanger. Just waiting to save up enough to get something like a transmission oil cooler.
Craig
I’m going to use the heater at startup only to bring spindle up to temperature so I don’t have to run the mill for warmup. My goal is to maintain consistent temperature for my spindle if I can. I’m using similar setup on router without the heater over the last 8 years and have never had spindle get above warm to the touch. The only change I had to make was a high pressure pump to improve flow on my router spindle. I have run my router for over 3 days on large projects, and still have a radiator left over from router project that I didn’t need. I will install radiator if aluminum tank isn’t enough to remove heat. The entire spindle housing is aluminum also. My digital temperature controller has 2 set points relay so so I could control fan for radiator as well as heating element. I’m going to run bearing in when I get it running and will get better feel for what I need to cool down spindle. This is my oil cooler that I will use if needed