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    Default Prolight 3000 questions

    Hi.

    I recently picked up a Intelitek/Light-Machines Prolight 3000 turning center.

    Unfortunately it's missing a few pieces.

    1) The tooling plate for the tool-turret. #12 in the attached image. Intelitek has one in stock and the list price is $1000. I confirmed via the parts diagram and part number that we were discussing the same part. They offered to give it to me for half price ($500) but that is still more than I paid for the entire lathe plus I'm pretty sure I can find a complete used turret for less than this. My question is whether it's a generic part? Else I guess I'm going to have to see if someone would be willing to supply dimensions so I could fabricate a replacement. I'm located in Portland, Oregon.


    2) It is missing the original chuck. I think OEM was a 4" 3-jaw which is large enough for my needs. From images online it looks like the original may use a threaded backplate which the chuck mounts to, rather than the chuck itself being directly 2-1/4 threaded. I'm not having much luck finding an online source for a 4" 2-1/4"/8 threaded backplate. 6" seems common in that thread size.


    3) It came with some 5C collets but I'm missing the drawbar/collet-closer. I see someone else inquired about making one here: https://www.cnczone.com/forums/bench...et-closer.html but nothing seemed to come of it.


    4) It came with a threaded 2-1/4" ring (pictured). I'm not certain what it's purpose is? To protect the spindle threads? The page in the manual showing collet operation shows the spindle threads exposed.


    5) No tailstock option looks to have been installed. Eventually like to pickup a tailstock. I see that EMCO guy has one on eBay but again more than I paid for the entire lathe. I'm guessing it's a custom item for this lathe? Has anyone created a replacement using a generic part? I couldn't find anything googling.


    The seller is trying to locate the above missing parts which is very generous of them but I'm mentally preparing myself to be disappointed. I'm envious of the past surplus listings I'm seeing where the unit is fully complete ;-)

    Thanks!

    Tony

    Similar Threads:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Prolight 3000 questions-turrent-assembly-jpg   Prolight 3000 questions-img_20191022_190051739-jpg   Prolight 3000 questions-collet-manual-jpg   Prolight 3000 questions-img_20191022_190028703-jpg  

    Prolight 3000 questions-img_20191022_185649927-jpg  


  2. #2
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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    I guess not many people have one of these.



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Tony,

    It looks like you got the machine for a bargain price but it wasn't complete. Those missing parts are very important so it may be why the machine was priced so reasonably. Unless you're tooled up to make all the missing parts I would think it a better deal to cut your losses and head in a different direction.


    Stuart

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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Don't give up on the machine just yet - it's a very nice piece of kit. I have two, one complete with original control, and 1 with no control on it.

    Mine both came with no tailstock - very custom and odd item, been eyeing that one on ebay for a while, but can't bring myself to pay that much for it... It's such a short mahine, you would mostly use it for a chucker-type lathe anyway.

    They both also came without turrets, but that's not a problem - you can easily set it up for gang-tool holders, or for QC toolpost changing. The 3 larger tapped holes in the cross-slide are for bolting toolposts into. If yours has the T-slots instead, you can use them to hold your gang-tool holders. Gang tooling has the advantage of faster toolchanges, since you are not waiting for the turret to rotate to the correct tool - it's not a fast operation on these small lathes. The turret tool plate would have to be custom-made, it wouldn't be generic.

    The chuck on mine (seems original) is a 3-jaw, 4" chuck, Bison brand. It's a model 3204-4", and bolts onto a mounting plate from the back, then is screwed onto the spindle. If you can find any backing plate in the correct thread, you can machine it down to fit the chuck. Even if you have to take it down from 6", you can do that, and it only has to be done once.

    The spindle itself has the 5C bore, which I love about this machine. The manual drawtube I don't have, but have found that the ID of the spindle is a little bit under 1.375". I happen to have a Hardinge manual 5C drawtube from an old DV59, and those are slightly larger than 1.375", so it won't fit. However, the length seems pretty close, so I may take a chance and turn the Hardinge drawtube down a few thou to make it fit. It's not a really hard piece to make, so if you have any access to other lathes, you might want to try making one, or go the route I mentioned, and make one from an old Hardinge drawtube. Or, as I plan to do on the second lathe, install a Royal air collet closer, and make it a production machine!



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Thanks for the reply. Don't worry, not going to give up on it, I'd been looking for one for a while.

    Mine has the t-slots. I'm hoping I can find someone who'll take measurements of the turret tooling plate so I can machine a copy.

    I'd heard that the chuck was a Bison, thanks for confirming and providing the part#. Even used they are quite expensive on eBay. I may have to find a cheaper brand.

    Thanks for the ID on the drawtube. If you adapt yours i'd be curious on what length you ended up with. I've not looked inside the spindle so im unsure if the original Light Machines closer was for external threaded collets or internal.

    Any idea what the ring is (on the spindle) in the first picture?

    Thanks

    Tony

    Sent from my MI PAD 4 PLUS using Tapatalk



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Quote Originally Posted by DSpeck View Post
    If you can find any backing plate in the correct thread, you can machine it down to fit the chuck. Even if you have to take it down from 6", you can do that, and it only has to be done once.
    What is the possibility of using a larger chuck than 4" on this machine? Say a 6" self-centering 3-jaw?



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Hey,

    I have one. Not running yet, but the plan is soon.

    The tailstock mounts on a piece of square stock that is attached at one end to the headstock and at the other to the the slab that the linear rails and ball screw are attached to.

    I took mine off because it looked like it would mainly be in the way. Keeping it, because, you know, reasons. And shafts. Shortish ones.

    That threaded collar is to protect the chuck threads when you are using collets.

    I have the tool changer and the bison chuck, but not the collet closer.

    Someone on ebay is selling collet tubes in any length for reasonable prices. That would be a good start to a simple closer.

    I have the matching Prolight mill which I was using with the original stepper driver box. I made an interface with an ebay breakout board. The pin mappings are available on the zone somewhere. That worked well until the lm7(?) Chips blew. The spindle and coolant relays failed first. It's junk now.

    I then upgraded to microstepping drives and the torque loss from those compared to the orignal half-step drives was disappointing. The original old blue steppers I had already replaced with Vextas.

    Which brings me to the lathe, I'm going to try some integrated servos and if they are awesome i will upgrade the mill too.

    How is your machine coming?



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    The max you'd be able to use is really a 5" chuck. With a 6" chuck, you could spin it, but it wouldn't allow you to open the jaws much wider than the chuck OD, since that would hit the way covers.

    Lathe drawtubes are all for external threads - the internal threads on a 5C collet are for collet stops, so you can insert a workpiece to a specific length every time. If you made a drawbar for the internal threads, you would restrict the diameter of the work that would pass through it.



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Quote Originally Posted by DSpeck View Post
    The max you'd be able to use is really a 5" chuck. With a 6" chuck, you could spin it, but it wouldn't allow you to open the jaws much wider than the chuck OD, since that would hit the way covers.
    I've been looking for a used 4" chuck but I've read quite a few posts advising that a new Chinese chuck can be preferable to a worn used higher quality one. I certainly can't afford a Bison. Or rather I can but given that the entire lathe cost me about $300 I don't want to spend that much ....

    Never bought from this company, they sell pre-finished backplates:

    - https://allindustrial.com/all-indust...-lathe-chucks/

    Not sure how great an idea the above is for accuracy vs something like this; of course I'd have to turn it down on the 3000:

    https://littlemachineshop.com/produc...ProductID=1923

    Lathe drawtubes are all for external threads - the internal threads on a 5C collet are for collet stops, so you can insert a workpiece to a specific length every time. If you made a drawbar for the internal threads, you would restrict the diameter of the work that would pass through it.
    Yeah, that was obvious. I'm not sure what I was thinking.

    Last edited by crazybrit; 12-11-2019 at 01:01 PM.


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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Quote Originally Posted by dan_the_welder View Post
    Someone on ebay is selling collet tubes in any length for reasonable prices. That would be a good start to a simple closer.
    You have the listing URL?

    I see these but they are 24" and the OD may be slightly too large based on Dspeck's comment: 'the ID of the spindle is a little bit under 1.375"'
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F184077871997

    Last edited by crazybrit; 12-11-2019 at 12:21 AM.


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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    It's this guy. He will make any length and I'm sure you or he can turn down the diameter.

    If I can't figure out a way to make one I'll probably get one from him.

    EDIT: Look at this, a collet extender tube. If its long enough, it's the basis for a cheap solution.


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/5C-Collet-Extension-Tube-8-inch-length-American-Made-/163731910066


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-USA-MAD...-/153509944765



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Have a question on the tool changer.

    As I said, mine came with the changer but the toolplate was missing. I had no luck getting dimensions from anyone so I could make a plate.

    I just bought a complete tool changer with plate and I noticed that the plate on the one I bought, if installed onto the changer that came with my lathe, would extend off to one side.

    Prolight 3000 questions-mine-jpg

    I did some more looking at it seems that is normal as I found this photo online

    Prolight 3000 questions-toolchanger-round-overhang-jpg

    There also seems to be a third style where the motor is hexagonal, the Emco guy has one on eBay right now and he refers to the round motor as the "old style".

    Prolight 3000 questions-ebay-toolchanger-hexstyle-805-50-jpg

    Does anyone know much about the differences? The fact that the plate overhangs the unit on one seems odd.

    @DSpeck mentioned above that some 3000s have a cross slide with t-slots and others bolt holes. Mine has t-slots. Is this a factor in the different styles of atc?.

    Anyways, when I get my Prolight 2500 mill working I plan to try and make a new tooling plate based on this one.

    Last edited by crazybrit; 09-16-2021 at 01:07 PM.


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
    Have a question on the tool changer.

    As I said, mine came with the changer but the toolplate was missing. I had no luck getting dimensions from anyone so I could make a plate.

    I just bought a complete tool changer with plate and I noticed that the plate on the one I bought, if installed onto the changer that came with my lathe, would extend off to one side.

    Prolight 3000 questions-mine-jpg

    I did some more looking at it seems that is normal as I found this photo online

    Prolight 3000 questions-toolchanger-round-overhang-jpg

    There also seems to be a third style where the motor is hexagonal, the Emco guy has one on eBay right now and he refers to the round motor as the "old style".

    Prolight 3000 questions-ebay-toolchanger-hexstyle-805-50-jpg

    Does anyone know much about the differences? The fact that the plate overhangs the unit on one seems odd.

    @DSpeck mentioned above that some 3000s have a cross slide with t-slots and others bolt holes. Mine has t-slots. Is this a factor in the different styles of atc?.

    Anyways, when I get my Prolight 2500 mill working I plan to try and make a new tooling plate based on this one.

    Just from looking at your pictures I'd have to say that the reason they thinned the bottom of the tool changer is because the tee slot table is thicker than the plain table with bolt holes.

    The spindle center line is absolute, so if the table is thicker then the tool changer has to become shorter



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Quote Originally Posted by dan_the_welder View Post
    Just from looking at your pictures I'd have to say that the reason they thinned the bottom of the tool changer is because the tee slot table is thicker than the plain table with bolt holes.

    The spindle center line is absolute, so if the table is thicker then the tool changer has to become shorter
    The manual only shows the cross-slide with the bolt holes. Not the t-slot version. I'm not sure if one was discontinued in favor of the other, or if both were available. The manual does talk about shimming the turret to bring it into correct alignment with the spindle center.

    So, is only one of the three style (of turret) compatible with the t-slot cross-slide? I'm assuming the tooling plate is the same for all styles.



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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
    The manual only shows the cross-slide with the bolt holes. Not the t-slot version. I'm not sure if one was discontinued in favor of the other, or if both were available. The manual does talk about shimming the turret to bring it into correct alignment with the spindle center.

    So, is only one of the three style (of turret) compatible with the t-slot cross-slide? I'm assuming the tooling plate is the same for all styles.

    All you have to do is use a spacer block to get it to the right height. The shimming is for fine adjustment.

    I think the hex motor version is the same, except they swapped the slosyn round stepper fir a modern one. I swapped mine to a square body Vexta because those slosyns are weak.



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Couple of questions.

    1. According to Intelitek the image below is part of the (factory installed) air chuck option for the 3000. I'm curious if anyone has the full system on their 3000? Intelitek told me they have "thrown out" all the documentation on this option.

    2. Has anyone added a coolant system to their 3000. I'd be interested in the details.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Prolight 3000 questions-img_20220803_130458109-jpg  


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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    I have the air chuck in spectra light. Looks like u have all except from chuck itselve. But anyway this chuck is valuable only if U have a mass production, cause it is not very comfortable for setting for different diameters and it's range of clamping is very small (like 2-3mm of diameter)



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    Quote Originally Posted by steryd View Post
    I have the air chuck in spectra light. Looks like u have all except from chuck itselve. But anyway this chuck is valuable only if U have a mass production, cause it is not very comfortable for setting for different diameters and it's range of clamping is very small (like 2-3mm of diameter)
    I assumed any chuck would be larger on a proLIGHT than on a spectraLIGHT. Since the proLIGHT spindle is 2-1/4"



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    Default Re: Prolight 3000 questions

    That's obvious. But supposely except for the chuck will being bigger it's clamping range won't be significanly larger.
    Anyway this long bar with two hoses connected is two way rotary coupler (one way is centric, and one is at a side of it). It is connected through spindle to the mounting plate of chuck wich has a double action pneumatic actuator in it. If U find any pneumatic chuck U probably wuld be able to mount it on your lathe by adding this mounting plate.
    I have it detached from "lathe" so i can take a pictures when i'll be at work after holidays.



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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steryd View Post
    so i can take a pictures when i'll be at work after holidays.
    Thanks

    I found a picture of the chuck on a different thread here. You are correct, appears to be a very small clamping range.

    I can't imagine it's anything I'd be interested in. I was curious purely because I have all the non chuck parts.

    Same for the pneumatic door system. These both seem odd features for an educational product.

    I'm not sure what other "factory accessories" existed apart from these two. I'm surprised there was no coolant option. I guess they expected most use in aluminum?

    Last edited by crazybrit; 08-20-2022 at 11:55 AM.


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