Replacing GO704 table. Will it work?

[moto52000]

Hello all, I had an end mill pull out and of course, it was on a cut where I left the area. I cut the side of the center slot 1/8 deep for ~10". The T nut still holds some but I'm sure it's weakened and could fail, that and I can't stand to look at it. My question is, If I buy a new table from Grizzly, what are the odds it will slide on and be good without scraping the ways?

Grizzly has the table in stock at $214.00

Thanks.
Glen

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[metalfixer]

Just a thought, don't know the table size, but one of these
might help you out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sacrificial...0AAOSwtBZbt6M8
Larry

[Fastest1]

The new table will not just be a plug and play item.
It would fit but not likely to be smooth or trouble free.
Larry’s idea sounds best, plus it is sacrificial. Something you wish you had in place prior ;-)


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[moto52000]

That is a good idea actually. Seems that the table is sacrificial in my shop anyway.

Is it even possible to fix this? Brazing, welding?

[CL_MotoTech]

I replaced my table as well as my Z carriage with new ones. I bought my mill used and despite being manually operated the table had been milled on a number of times. The Z carriage also appeared damage and I never could get it adjusted the way I wanted.

It wasn't hard. I didn't scrape. I used the same gib strip, it was a slightly different fit, so I had to adjust its length, I tightened the gib up bit and lapped it in using valve grinding paste. I zero'd at the limit switch then ran the table back and forth to extremes (over ride limits on) using a simple program, "X0 X18" on repeat (or something like that), I let it run for something like two hours. I had to stop it to add paste and snug the gibs occasionally (as the high spots came off). Finally. I took it all apart, cleaned it up, then back together with oil. Same thing for Z, I just leave the head off and only run the carriage, that let me get the gib tighter for lapping.

My Z was definitely tight at the top and at the very bottom and took a little extra messing around.

All of that said, that fixture plate is a great idea, and for the price it would be hard to beat. I don't think I could machine it myself for less than that.

[Jim Dawson]

That is a good idea actually. Seems that the table is sacrificial in my shop anyway.

Is it even possible to fix this? Brazing, welding?

I don't think I would weld or braze the table, it might warp.

We have a semi-permanently attached 1 inch thick aluminum tooling plate on our Haas. Works very well. We waxed the table with a few coats of paste wax before installing the tooling plate to protect the table from any coolant that might get under it. As a bonus, it allows easy use of interchangeable pallets that are located by pin holes in the tooling plate.

[Turbo442]

They don’t scrape it at the factory so you should be fine. You will need to adjust the gibs though.


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