I just squirt oil into the gibs and dovetail (both sides) on my manual mill every now and then. OK, a little bit messy at times, but it works fine.
Cheers
Roger
Hello Gents,
I just finished disassembly for a brand new mill - Optimum MH25V - and realized the slideway oiling concept is s**t and needs redesign.
To be more precise, there are oil channels, but only for Y and Z. X is on it's own. And the Y and Z channels do not provide proper lubrication. Tested it and the oil does not reach in all places and the slideway is not preperly lubed.
So, I would need some help with designing proper oil channels for this machine.
While I have seen, here on the forum, how to do it for the sliding surfaces, I still do not know how to properly lubricate the dovetail part, especially the side with the gib. The machine has parallel gibs.
Does anybody have an idea how is this made? Pictures would be most wellcome.
Thank you,
Andrei
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I just squirt oil into the gibs and dovetail (both sides) on my manual mill every now and then. OK, a little bit messy at times, but it works fine.
Cheers
Roger
Hi Roger,
I want to install a central oiling system. So in the long run manual squirting will not do. Especially since I will be converting to CNC in the next months
A.
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I use a small brush to put a film of oil on my my X2.
On the new 25 machine it already has oil holes in it apart from where the gibs are.
I've taken out all the little brass oil ports and re-drilled/tapped them to M8x1.0 for some elbow fittings.
I've drilled through the gibs and used a dremmel to make small V shaped grooves in all those dovetail areas.
Haven't tested it all out yet as it's still being built.
You can pay thousands of dollars for an oiling system (and still have to do a lot of work to fit it), or you can DIY for very much less. But DIY is always custom.
Cheers
Roger
One can order from china a 50 EUR automatic oiling pump and additionaly what is needed is some plastic tubing + fittings + metering valves. All of which can be purchased for less then 150 EUR. So, the idea of automatic central oiling is not that far fetched.
Therefore I still have trouble lubricating the gib (which is parallel, NOT tapered)
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I can not really take this route. My gib is parallel not tapered. So instead of being a tight fit between the 2 dovetail halves, it is pushed away from the saddle towards the table using setscrews and all oil coming from the oiling channel will pool behind the gib
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One can order from china a 50 EUR automatic oiling pump . . .
That is the DIY route. Go for it. Cast iron bed: you can drill little holes at all sorts of angles.
all oil coming from the oiling channel will pool behind the gib
I dunno about that. I find that even a small pool of oil goes everywhere! It creeps.
Cheers
Roger
Similar design to my Sieg.
If worried about it going behind the gib you could try (experimental like),.
1. Drill through both the casting and gib with 4mm bit.
2. Expand the hole halfway through the casting to suit the fixing you get and thread it.
3. Push a small piece of 4mm tube through casting and gib so it covers the gap then fit the fixing which should push the oil through the small tube piece onto the dovetail.
That little piece of tube will need to be a fairly tight fit as when you drill through from the top for the slide the tube could move and cover that hole.
Or have separate fittings for everything so the dovetails are on their own feeds.
There are ways but it's all trial and error.
I went for the little so called adjustable manifolds for mine. Worth a try. Clueless when it comes to meter units
Got a 3 out for the column and a 6 out for the table.
Won't get to test it for a while yet.
Still undecided whether to fit the ballnuts onto it or blank off the ports and use grease points for those instead.
I have actually fed them to the manifolds so I'll just have to wait and see what transpires.
Got the column & head riser pretty much finished now it's onto converting the x,y.
I also thought of something similar-ish. But using a brass fitting which would be screwed through the casting and has a tapered end to match the dovetail angle. The plastic tubing idea is definitely much simpler.
I will consider this as plan B. First I want to try milling some channels on the gib face. This will allow oil to seep in the right place. I made a little sketch to depict the idea. What do you think of this approach?
I drilled and tapped some 6mm holes, added 6mm grease fittings, and used an oil gun.
Drill through the gib, and mill a channel.
Hi metalfixer,
Thank you for sharing the pictures. Better than a 1000 words. I could use your idea, especially since my castings already have M5 threaded holes for the giblocks and I could use M5 fittings to install oil delivery plastic tubing.
BTW: how is the oil delivery working out for your machine? Did you test it yet?
Andrei
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If you have the mill apart, drill and tap some extra holes to mount
knurled knobs to trip limit switches.
I did the CNC conversion, oil gun works O.K., not much room
to use tubing and fittings on a mini mill for automatic oiling.
Are you sure your gib adjustment screws are M5?
Larry
Last edited by metalfixer; 03-05-2019 at 11:05 AM. Reason: Rotate image
Hi Larry,
Thank you for the info. Tomorrow I will do the Y axis. If all goes well (hopefully) then X and Z will folloow.
Actually the mill is not that small. You can see some pictures of it in my review thread:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...8&share_type=t
There seems to be enough room for tubing.
The gib setscrews are M6. My bad.
BTW, is there a particular reason you ran 2 oil lines for each side of each axis?
A.
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Hi Andrei,
Forgot to mention, used a radius cutter on the gibs,
ball mill on the table.
Larry
At one of the gib screw locations make a custom screw that is long enough that is goes through he gib but doesn't touch the way of the table. Drill through the screw so the hole is used as an oil port. The attach the oiling mechanism to the screw head, the other end delivers oil to the desired location.
The srcew is longer so it can cross the air gap between the gob and the saddle, and deliver the oil to the way of the table.
I have some M6 plastic screws which can be used. Turn the tip down to 3mm so it can pass through the gib hole. And plastic will not score the dovetail.
The screws I have, have some odd M6 tbread. While I can screw them in e.g. an M6 nut, the fit is rather tight. This is a plus since they will not unwind. And I can use M6 internal thread fittings to attach the oil lines
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So, Z axis oil channels are almost done.
Channels are milled using a 3mm ballnose endmill.
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Hi,
How deep are the channels?
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Suat
Proud father, C# developer, Model heli pilot, newbie free time machinist for hobby