Cutting Raw Stock to Size on a Mill

[IHateMayonnaise]

Hey guys,

I am relatively new to the world of machining, and I'm wondering if there is a better way to do something than how I'm currently doing it. Specifically, I am often faced with the problem of cutting raw stock material (aluminum) to the approximate size of the piece I am making so that I start squaring it up. A lot of times I just end up using a hacksaw, but for thicker pieces what I typically do is mount it in my vise and make a bazillion passes with a 1/2" roughing end mill to make large cuts. The latter is problematic, because 1) it's extremely time consuming, and 2) it heats up the entire stock significantly in the process. One thing that occurred to me as a possible solution is to use an arbor-mounted slitting cutter and mount the stock vertical, which could get me most of the way through and then I could do the rest by hand. Has anyone tried this? Or does anyone have any other suggestions? I should note that 1) this is on a RF-30 clone, 2) I do not have a bandsaw and 3) I do not own any slitting cutters (I wanted to check with y'all before I invest in a new tool).

Thank you for humoring my silly question!

Cheers,
Wes

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[rcheli]

This is one of the best things I ever bought.

https://www.harborfreight.com/horizo...saw-93762.html
After that buy a good bimetal blade. The one that comes with this saw works but not nearly as well as good one.

You can use a circular chop saw with the correct blade. Those faster but a bit more scary to use.

[Jim Dawson]

A slitting cutter would not be my first choice. I would buy a band saw, you need one anyway.

If your budget is an issue, then even the Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw would be a good choice. Check Craigslist also, there are normally a few for sale in my area.

A Port-a-Band type hand bandsaw would also be a good option, again Harbor Freight has a couple of them as I recall. Lowes and Home Depot also has various brands available.

There are also available circular saw aluminum cutting blades. Evolution has a full line of metal cutting circular saws and I have had good luck with the two that I have. https://www.evolutionpowertools.com/us/steel/

[IHateMayonnaise]

Thanks for the replies!

I can't get a bandsaw at the moment. I have absolutely zero room for additional equipment (not kidding). I could potentially get a power hacksaw, however that seems more like a one-trick pony than tooling for a mill, which could potentially be used for many purposes. I was thinking of getting a slitting-saw anyway because it has its own benefits that would increase my capability.

Also.. I do have a rather beefy 10" table saw (either a 3 or 5 HP motor I can't remember), maybe I could get a metal saw blade for that? I wouldn't imagine I could cut through very thick stock, though (not to mention safety concerns)

[Bob La Londe]

For most stock I've found a horizontal bandsaw is the easiest and fastest way to rough to length. I started with a 4x6 modified it to cut 4x8, and now have a 7x10. I always leave a little to finish to final size and square on the mill. Some guys will spend hours or even days dialing in their saw, but my experience was that the first time I bound a tooth or moved the blade guide all that effort was wasted.

Sometimes though you have to use other methods. I've lucked into pieces of steel plate at low enough prices to be worth buying just to have. I have had to rough cut with a torch, and recently picked up a metal cutting curcular saw. Plasma cutting is on my wish list.

[Bob La Londe]

Also.. I do have a rather beefy 10" table saw (either a 3 or 5 HP motor I can't remember), maybe I could get a metal saw blade for that? I wouldn't imagine I could cut through very thick stock, though (not to mention safety concerns)

I have cut aluminum on a 10" table saw with quality carbide tooth wood blades. It works. The chips filling the gullets of the teeth is an issue. Its also hard on blades and its dangerous. A kickback with a piece of would may injure you, but a kick back with a piece of aluminum will definitely injure you. I think the biggest issues are chip welding/clearing, too high surface speed, feed control, and safety. I can't see cutting steel on it, and while an abrasive blade might work its hot and has a whole other range of dangers involved. I wouldn't want to have that junk in my saw.

chop saws are another viable option, and they can be placed on a shelf or under a bench when not in use. I've got an abrasive chop saw (which I hardly use since I got my bandsaw) and its ok. I debate getting a cold cut cop saw, but like you say space is an issue, ad my bandsaw does an adequate job for 90% of my metal severing purposes.

[Jim Dawson]

Yes, you can get metal cutting blades for the table saw. Cutting metal stock on a table saw is a little dicey but I have done it on mine, I have an aluminum cutting blade on it right now. But mine is a 3/4 HP 9 inch and I can over power and stall the motor, a 3 or 5 hp machine would not be so forgiving, kick back could be dangerous. Good hold downs are an absolute must. A table saw like yours should handle at least 2 inches thick. I have cut aluminum 2.5 inches thick with an Evolution circular saw, goes through it like butter. WD40 is your friend when cutting aluminum.

[109jb]

Portable bandsaw

https://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp...kit-63444.html

Metal cutting circular saw

[skrubol]

On a belt driven table saw you can replace the drive pulleys with step pulleys and underdrive the saw. I did this on my old table saw and it worked pretty well for aluminum up to 1/4". Chip clogging (not really welding, but filling the gullets,) was still an issue, especially on thicker plate, but I've yet to find a circular saw on aluminum that doesn't have the issue (I've never used a cold saw or anything particularly fancy.) Bonus was it worked well for hardwood as well.

[firepong]

I don't think I will ever have the balls to use a hand held circular say like that on metal, even with a metal cutting blade.

I am currently using a chop saw with a mist blaster system on the blade. Have not had any problems out of it, with the biggest piece cut being 4" thick aluminum (Only work with aluminum and if I need steel, it comes precut to the size I need on the mill).

If I were to go to anything other than my chop saw, I would probably get a horizontal bandsaw to replace the chop saw.

[Bob La Londe]

I don't think I will ever have the balls to use a hand held circular say like that on metal, even with a metal cutting blade.

I have a 9" circular saw MADE for metal cutting. It was pretty scary the first time I used it. I can tell you that stainless will roast the blades very very quickly. Not worth it. For stainless sheet I went back to an abrasive cut off wheel in an angle grinder, and the bandsaw for thicker bar stock. My circular saw does a passable job in mild steel. I just can't fit a 48" x 96" piece of plate in the bandsaw.

[CL_MotoTech]

I've used a circular saw on loads of aluminum. My father and I built a 16' all aluminum box trailer and probably 90% of the aluminum was cut with a circular saw. The trick we found was to use some hand cleaner on the cut as it will stop the aluminum from clocking the blade much like coolant in the mill.

Of course I have the HF saw linked to previously and it's magic. Worth every cent and then some. I also have a vertical band saw that I inherited that I use for small stuff, it's pretty awesome in its own right.

[ninefinger]

I second the suggestion of a hand held band saw.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-63444.html
Its portable and can be stashed away when not in use, can cut up to 5" wide and will save your arm a whole lot of sawing.
I've used them before and they are great little tools.

[RCaffin]

I have a large commercial wood-working table saw. It has a 12" carbide-tipped blade on it, and a 3+ HP 3-phase motor. The carbide tips are wider than the blade itself. I have sliced up 8 mm thick 6060 aluminium plate with it and got a very nice finish too. I use a guide arm to steer the plate, and pusher sticks to keep my fingers away from the blade.

I did worry that the surface speed of the carbide tips might be a bit high, but by cutting gently there was no trouble at all.

Cheers
Roger

[fretsman]

I use one of these for aluminum that I can't fit in my 10'' band saw. Works absolutely beautifully.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mini-metal-saw.html

[fretsman]

I still use my vice mounted mini bandsaw for steel....so this may be an option for you as well.