Build Thread Nico's PM-25 CNC Build


Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 28

Thread: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

  1. #1

    Default Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    I have learned so much on this forum over the years and I figured it was time to give something back and share my machine. It is a PM-25 MV that I purchased in January of 2018.

    Currently, parts and modifications include:
    400 oz in Nema 23 steppers on X and Y
    1200 oz in Nema 34 stepper on Z
    DM542T drivers for X and Y
    DM860T driver for Z
    2 48v power supplies
    1500W 6000 RPM Lenze MCS servo on the spindle
    1605 double nut ballscrews on X and Y
    1605 single nut ballscrew on Z
    Power draw bar
    Full enclosure
    Linux CNC control
    Mist coolant system
    Angular contact bearings in the spindle (Running 7500 RPM now)

    I use the mill mostly for making parts for the machine or making gun parts. It uses a mix of TTS tool holders, shop made tool holders, and some Novakon tool holders.

    Overall, I am happy with the performance of the machine. My biggest complaints are the double nut ballscrews (they came severely bent and needed lots of work to get the nuts to fit and preloaded, got a refund for them though), the spindle (vibrates a little bit more than I would like at 7500, needs to be balanced), and the Y and Z way covers (didn't last long before tearing and eventually got removed). At some point, I will remove the spindle again and see about balancing it. There was some poor machine work on the spindle threads which makes the cap that the drawbar uses wobble. That is certainly contributing to the vibration. I would like to increase the spindle speed to 10,000 once I do that, and the 2 HP servo should be more than capable of removing material at 6000 RPM. The torque output at 6000 is still well above what most cuts would require. I usually run it at roughly 1 in^3/min removal in aluminum, though I have managed to get it to cut 4.35 in^3/min. With end mills, I need to stick to roughly 1, because too much higher and I get tool pull out. With carbide insert end mills, tool pull out hasn't been a problem.

    The pneumatic drawbar uses a 3 stage air cylinder running at roughly 110 PSI pushing 2300 lbs to release the tool. The springs I have are rated for 900lbs working force with 1100lbs full compression force. I have 12 of them running in 3 sets of 4 like this (())(())(()) so the release force is 2200 lbs.

    I have plans to change some things up on the machine in the future. I would like to make a new enclosure out of sheet metal so I can run flood coolant instead of mist. I currently have one made of MDF and wood sealed with epoxy paint. I am also planning a 10 tool umbrella style tool changer that has most of the parts machined, but I need to work on the programming and a few peripherals. I have my eye out for some ground ballscrews that I can afford on ebay, but so far I have not had any luck finding one that is suitable. I would like to put some servos on it, but it may be a while before I can justify that. If I can get the tool changer working and start running production parts to sell, I might be able to justify the increase in speed and accuracy. I will also be making a probe to help on that end.

    I am toying with the idea of converting it to linear rails to get some increased rapids and hopefully smoother motion. I made a linear rail table for my X2 once and it made a world of difference. I have a friend who has a Haas that can machine the dovetails off and prepare the rail mounting surface for me. I am not sure that makes sense at this point though since the dovetails do a good enough job. I would also like to increase the Y axis travel and put a head spacer on it. As others have mentioned, the machines spindle is not centered on the Y axis travel, so a lot of the Y axis travel isn't usable. A vise hanging off the end further limits that travel.

    I have an idea for a control panel for it since I don't love using a mouse and keyboard all the time. It is tough to keep all of it clean and most of the keystrokes could be replaced with a control panel button.

    I made a 4th axis/lathe attachment using the old spindle bearings and motor. I haven't used it yet, and currently it does not have positioning capabilities. I had an idea to add an encoder and a brake to give me 3+1 capabilities, but I haven't had a chance to design and test that part out.

    Here is the machine and the enclosure before the doors went on. The cut out in the back was there so I could get the tool changer mounted. The vise on the table is an inexpensive 4" ebay vise.


    Here is a look at the air cylinder assembly for the drawbar.


    Here is the 4th axis as it stands now.


    An AR-15 lower I made using the machine.


    There is a look at the spindle servo compared to the stock motor and the Z axis stepper.


    Thanks for looking! I am happy to answer any questions anyone has as well as suggestions or constructive criticisms to help me improve the machine.

    Similar Threads:


  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    88
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    Thanks for posting, got any videos?
    I have a 2 axis Acer knee mill (Bridgeport clone) in excellent shape, but keep coming back to these 25 cnc conversions. I really would like 3 axis to play with


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



  3. #3

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    I have a few videos on YouTube.

    Here is a link to that channel:

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCL6...TdHHRC02FUttzA



  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    88
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    Thanks


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



  5. #5

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    It has been a while since I have posted anything here.

    Two big changes to the machine are the Clearpath servo motors on each axis and the automatic tool changer.

    The servos give me about 400 IPM in the X and Y, and the Z is able to move about 250. I am only using a 48V power supply, so those numbers should increase when I get a clearpath 75V power supply. I am very pleased with the servos. It is excellent having the machine not lose its position if it crashes and never having to worry about lost steps because I pushed it too fast.

    The automatic tool changer is an umbrella type tool changer on some round linear rails. It is actuated by a dual action air cylinder and rotated by a stepper motor. It holds 10 TTS tools. I am still working on the programming for it, but it will be controlled using an arduino responding to commands from the linuxcnc control computer.

    I posted a few videos showing the machines old and new rapids and some motion testing on the tool changer.







  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    411
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    @shooter123456. What is the model number of those Clearpath servos?



  7. #7

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    CPM-SDSK-2321S-RLN on the X and Y, CPM-SDSK-3421P-RLN on the Z.



  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    us
    Posts
    18
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    Nice machine and nice work. Sound like you have a good grasp on it. I just received my clearpath motors for my pm940. My pm940 just came in a couple weeks ago so I can get ready to do a conversion on it. I have most of what I need but have to buy some ball screws. I have some AC bearings ordered so I can figure out everything. The 940 is a huge heavy mill and should make for a solid conversion. I will eventually build an enclosure. I have thought about using some 80/20 t-slot extrusion for the enclosure's upper frame. Do you know how you will build your enclosure?



  9. #9

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    I have been working on the enclosure for a couple of weeks now. It uses steel square tube as a stand and sheet metal for the body. This is only my second excursion into welding and the first time I have worked with sheet metal. It will have a chip tray on drawer slides under the machine and the tray will have a drain for the coolant. I have not yet picked out a container to use as the coolant tank, but it will probably just be a plastic storage container. I am still trying to figure out how to do the doors, but I am thinking an aluminum frame with an acrylic sheet in the middle, then drawer slides to open and close. If you would pardon the mess, I have a few pictures of its progress.





    I also made a little adapter to hold the solenoid for the air blast I have been using. The mist coolant doesn't clear chips from holes very well, so in those cases, I use compressed air in addition to the mister.







    I am also working on re-doing the electronics enclosure. It was pretty tidy when I started, but as things were added, removed, and changed out, it has gotten messier and messier. I am going to rewire everything, get proper connectors for everything, and hopefully get it all cleaned up and organized.

    I am having trouble deciding how to replace the way covers. I tore through the stock ones within a few months, and am currently using a shower curtain as a temporary solution. I don't love the accordion ones because they seemed to tear pretty quick and they like to catch and hold on to chips. The sheet metal ones look like the best option, but they are either expensive or difficult to make work well. Anyone have any suggestions?



  10. #10

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    The Novakon pulsar has a sheet metal cover for its Y axis you can buy for $85. You could see if they'll give you a drawing of the flange to see if it will fit.

    Another option would be shielded bellows.

    https://www.novakon.net/collections/...-y-axis-pulsar



  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    16
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I'm messing around with 3d printed way covers for my G0704. If I can get it to work, I would epoxy on a thin piece of AL on the front face to protect the printed part face. I have a tentative design but have not made any scaled down pieces to prove out concept.

    Quote Originally Posted by shooter123456 View Post
    I have been working on the enclosure for a couple of weeks now. It uses steel square tube as a stand and sheet metal for the body. This is only my second excursion into welding and the first time I have worked with sheet metal. It will have a chip tray on drawer slides under the machine and the tray will have a drain for the coolant. I have not yet picked out a container to use as the coolant tank, but it will probably just be a plastic storage container. I am still trying to figure out how to do the doors, but I am thinking an aluminum frame with an acrylic sheet in the middle, then drawer slides to open and close. If you would pardon the mess, I have a few pictures of its progress.





    I also made a little adapter to hold the solenoid for the air blast I have been using. The mist coolant doesn't clear chips from holes very well, so in those cases, I use compressed air in addition to the mister.







    I am also working on re-doing the electronics enclosure. It was pretty tidy when I started, but as things were added, removed, and changed out, it has gotten messier and messier. I am going to rewire everything, get proper connectors for everything, and hopefully get it all cleaned up and organized.

    I am having trouble deciding how to replace the way covers. I tore through the stock ones within a few months, and am currently using a shower curtain as a temporary solution. I don't love the accordion ones because they seemed to tear pretty quick and they like to catch and hold on to chips. The sheet metal ones look like the best option, but they are either expensive or difficult to make work well. Anyone have any suggestions?




  12. #12

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    Getting close to the end with the new enclosure. I have finished up most of the weld work, got the front opening all framed up, got new sliding rails for the doors, resized the doors from the old enclosure for use on the new one, mounted the doors, siliconed the corners where there was no sheet metal overlap, fabricated the chip tray, and I am now working on cleaning it up and getting it ready for paint. A few places will need body filler, but I am hoping the end result will look pretty good. I am planning to add the flood coolant tank and plumbing after painting everything and getting the machine moved over. The paint on the mill is looking pretty rough in some places, so the machine will also get a fresh coat along with the enclosure. I am planning to do the machine and lower part of the enclosure in gray and the upper and inside parts of the enclosure in white. I am picking white mostly because it will keep things bright inside.

    Here is the enclosure almost as it stands now. There is a little chip chute to funnel the chips into the tray which will sit on tracks below it.


    Here is a look at the inside looking down. The tape is there to help get nicer edges from the silicon. You can see the chip tray below and the chip chute as well.


    Here is another view of the chip tray down below. The tray will sit on sliders so it will be up a little bit higher. The gap should be about an inch, so hopefully it will manage to contain the majority of the chips.


    Just another look at everything. The doors mount to the .25" steel bars running across the top and bottom. Half inch steel square tube frames up the left and right side of the opening to stiffen everything up a bit and get rid of the sharp edge from the sheet metal. I am planning to add a piece of sheet metal folded over the bottom edge of the opening to protect that as well.


    I got a bunch of new connectors and such for the new electronics box as well. The number of connectors needed really adds up quick... I am hoping it will be worth it when I don't need to deal with the complete birds nest of wires running every which direction currently.

    Right now I am thinking the control panel will be mounted up on the front right, then a tool rack and accessory rack will be mounted to the left side. I got the casters in recently, so those will also soon be added to the frame.

    I thought I had pictures of the doors, but it looks like I do not. I will be sure to take some and add them. The door frames are made of aluminum and the windows are acrylic. I will be making some handles soon similar to the ones on the new tormach enclosures. There is still plenty of work to go. Need to figure out the automatic lubrication for the machine, way covers, motor covers (and waterproofing for flood coolant), control panel, head cover, spindle pulleys, air routing and control, and touch probe. I am sure that list will grow before I finish...



  13. #13

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    I got the enclosure all bondoed up and primed. I had the darndest time getting my little HVLP touch up gun to spray the primer well, so I ordered a full size HVLP gun which made short work of priming. Amazing what using the right tool for the job does... less work and better results. I also got one of those sand paper flapper wheels and that cleaned up welds and edges without digging in and making more trouble the way a regular grinding wheel was.


    Here it is all primed up. The top will be white, then the bottom will be gray. I will added some sheet metal around the base to clean it up at some point. I will also be adding an edge guard to the bottom of the opening to keep it from getting dinged up and cutting me. You can also see pretty well how the rear opening isn't squared up right. The pieces I will add to close the gap between the mill column and enclosure should hide that completely, so I didn't bother trying to figure out how to correct it.



    Another angle. You can see some of the sheet metal seams on the inside.



    Chip tray primed up as well. I spent a long time welding up all of the edges to hopefully keep it water tight for when I start using flood coolant. I will add a drain to it when that happens. I am still toying with the idea of adding a chip auger so I don't have to bother emptying it. It would be overkill and unnecessary, but it would be cool and convenient, which is a good enough reason for me.



    Here are the door frames. I was planning to paint these as well, but while cleaning up the surface, I really liked the brushed metal look. Unfortunately, there are a few dings here and there (door material was from the scrapyard), so I may end up painting it to hide those blemishes. I tried using my metal brake to snap the window acrylic, but that didn't go so great. The edges are very jagged and there are a few cracks, but those are mostly hidden in the frame, so I will likely use them for a while.



    I am thinking the first job for the machine once it is in its new enclosure will be finishing up the parts kits. I have done a large chunk of the work on these and I tell ya, small scale production is fun! Trying new things and thinking of ways to speed up the process is very satisfying. So who wants a parts kit?










  14. #14
    Member CS900's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    670
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    While I don't need a kit, I do appreciate that all your parts seem to be deburred right on the CNC. Those little touches are always a sign of a good craftsman!



  15. #15

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    Thank you My parts get hit with a chamfer mill any time it can reach. The operation usually takes less than a minute and saves me lots of time later.



  16. #16

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    So the boss says "I have a job I think you can handle."


    Got the machining for the handles finished. I am not sure if I will keep them this long, but this is the general idea. The end parts were machined on the mill and the middle is just 1.125" aluminum tube I found at the scrap yard. They will just screw on to the doors.





    Just sitting on the door frames.



    A little long I think, they will probably need to be shortened a bit.




  17. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    1516
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    Quote Originally Posted by shooter123456 View Post
    So the boss says "I have a job I think you can handle."
    Got the machining for the handles finished. I am not sure if I will keep them this long, but this is the general idea. The end parts were machined on the mill and the middle is just 1.125" aluminum tube I found at the scrap yard. They will just screw on to the doors.
    Just sitting on the door frames.
    A little long I think, they will probably need to be shortened a bit.
    They look pretty cool if you ask me. I'd leave them as-is. They'll assist with rigidity of the doors as well.
    Look a damn site better than my door effort at least

    Makes me ashamed at my conversion effort when I see yours.



  18. #18

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    I suppose shortening them up later is always an option. If they end up feeling too long or like they are taking up too much space (Though they are door handles, I don't imagine it making much of a difference), I just pop the doors off, cut the handle bars a little shorter, put them back on and fill the holes with some JB weld.

    Glad I could make you feel bad about your machine. That is exactly what I was going for. I always strive for a Globo Gym kind of vibe. We are better than you, and we know it! (Hope it is clear that I am just joking).



  19. #19

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    I made some progress on the way covers over the weekend. I had a little bit of trouble getting the sheet metal to cut right on the machine, but a little bit of tweaking and a few failed parts got them to cut well enough. I had to slow the spindle way down, slow the feed way down, and turn off the mister and spray WD40 instead. Otherwise, it was so gummy it was just kind of smudging the material out of the way. The little side pieces were all made from scraps (The largest one was only 2.125x1.6) so it is nice when I get to use those little extra bits and not need to buy more material. There are 12 of those in total with the shortest ones having a slightly different profile to match the ways a little bit better and hopefully keep chips from getting in from the front. There will be .025" clearance between the sides of the cover sections and .05" of clearance along the top sheet metal sections. The slot in the sheet metal parts is .01" deep and will hold a .0625" thick piece of rubber to dampen vibrations and serve as a wiper. If I have trouble with chips getting in along the sides, they have some .025" rubber or felt that can be attached there and help keep it sealed up.


    Here are the side pieces. They are .3" thick and have a .165" slot going down the sides. There is a corresponding raised circle on the other side. The top has 2 6x32 tapped holes to hold the screws that attach the sheet metal.


    Here are a few pictures of a quick dry assembly. The sheet metal parts need to be cleaned up a little bit (that was also made from scrap yard material), get rid of the smudgy burrs and clean up the surfaces.






    Just need to make 2 more sheets and wait for a new 6x32 tap to get here. Then maybe make a new part for reasons that need not be disclosed about the broken tap that is stuck in it.



  20. #20
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    58
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Re: Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

    First of all, thank you for sharing, your build looks extremely tidy and well thought out. Though we cannot get the Precision Matthews machines in Australia, I am looking at buying a similar machine to CNC.

    Do you have your machine set up for rigid tapping? I have been looking at servos for the spindle too - are you happy with the choice here? is the vibration you've been having in the spindle or the servo?

    How did you go setting up LinuxCNC? I have set up a gecko G540 and Mesa 5i25 on my CNC router to learn my way around it before I buy a proper Mill and CNC it. What motion control board are you using with it?

    I know it's a big ask, would you be willing to share your .ini and .hal files so I can see how you've set your machine up in LinuxCNC?



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

Nico's PM-25 CNC Build

Nico's PM-25 CNC Build