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  1. #25
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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    Quote Originally Posted by CS900 View Post
    yes yes! had to go back and look it over again. I'd love to see progress on your mill too!
    Soon I have done some work and rethinking things. So might be whil

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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    I have been thinking about z axis on this kind of build for a long time CS900, have a few ideas about how to do it. I'm going to be using NSK LY35s for z as that what I have. Seems extreme but z rails are taking about (guess) 1000 times the moment of x and y in these benchtop style machines. Also means I'll have to mill off a lot of cast. Not ideal to be honest but I am not afraid. Happy to share my thoughts on it if you're interested. Your 20s are a better fit to be honest. I believe in a solid post though.

    P.s., I checked out your blocks after my last post, they have a webbing in the way. I would only tackle that with aluminium oxide to be honest. (that's not a misspelling in Australia, we spell it different haha). The other option is to build something similar to your drill guide as a spacer.

    It's quite important you have the whole face of the blocks tensioned to the surface for the blocks to do what they're advertised to do. To measure preload in these blocks they measure the radial deflection in the block top surface. Get that bolt in mate.



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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    Quote Originally Posted by edmunns View Post
    I have been thinking about z axis on this kind of build for a long time CS900, have a few ideas about how to do it. I'm going to be using NSK LY35s for z as that what I have. Seems extreme but z rails are taking about (guess) 1000 times the moment of x and y in these benchtop style machines. Also means I'll have to mill off a lot of cast. Not ideal to be honest but I am not afraid. Happy to share my thoughts on it if you're interested. Your 20s are a better fit to be honest. I believe in a solid post though.

    P.s., I checked out your blocks after my last post, they have a webbing in the way. I would only tackle that with aluminium oxide to be honest. (that's not a misspelling in Australia, we spell it different haha). The other option is to build something similar to your drill guide as a spacer.

    It's quite important you have the whole face of the blocks tensioned to the surface for the blocks to do what they're advertised to do. To measure preload in these blocks they measure the radial deflection in the block top surface. Get that bolt in mate.
    yeah, I'd love to hear them, and I'm sure everyone else would as well. You don't think carbide would be enough to chew into the blocks?

    and funny you bring up the solid column....that may be something that's in the works as well



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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    I wouldn't touch those blocks with anything but a grinder, but thats probably just me. My good carbide endmills are my best tools. If you want to break a $20 carbide end mill on that job then good for you. I can't afford this. Don't be scared to do it in the way it has been done for ever (this cuts that and this cuts that.)



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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    Google "Hard Milling". I believe NY CNC did a video on this milling stuff ~60 HRC using these specialty end mills on their Tormach machines



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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    Awesome. That's really practical for this build.

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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    yeah, I saw that video. Seems like the tools they use just have super shallow flutes, but otherwise are standard coated carbide.

    I don't mind throwing a few carbide endmills at it. I get free regrinds from a local shop once they are out of tolerance for them so if I burn one (or more) up no biggie. Maybe I'll give it a try tonight. I guess my hesitation is contaminating the balltrack and I was trying to avoid taking them all apart....but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do...



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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    Sounds like you have the problem well in hand, and having access to the free regrinds certainly is a plus (lucky dog). I would also take another look and see if a small contoured seat could be machined that mated with the shape of bearing car and allowed the fastener to pass through and bear on, much like a washer.

    Stuart

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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    Quote Originally Posted by CS900 View Post
    yeah, I saw that video. Seems like the tools they use just have super shallow flutes, but otherwise are standard coated carbide.

    I don't mind throwing a few carbide endmills at it. I get free regrinds from a local shop once they are out of tolerance for them so if I burn one (or more) up no biggie. Maybe I'll give it a try tonight. I guess my hesitation is contaminating the balltrack and I was trying to avoid taking them all apart....but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do...
    I'm always a fan of saving a few bucks, but look into CBN end mills if that doesn't work out.



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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    Quote Originally Posted by atomarc View Post
    Sounds like you have the problem well in hand, and having access to the free regrinds certainly is a plus (lucky dog). I would also take another look and see if a small contoured seat could be machined that mated with the shape of bearing car and allowed the fastener to pass through and bear on, much like a washer.

    Stuart
    yeah, I was thinking about that and decided to give it a try. Turns out the blocks have a small counterbore in the casting already so I thought it could just get away with a small diameter spacer:


    Nope...


    So next idea just turn down the bolt head


    nope....There's next to no clearance between the web of the back blocks and the table dovetail. Soooo...I'm going to order some low profile screws and turn the heads on them. hopefully that will give me enough clearance.



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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    You'll sort it CS900, good job!

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  12. #36
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    Default Re: PM45 mill upgrades

    Ok...so got a little more done over the weekend. I've been thinking about how i'm going to assemble the saddle and realized that having the longer Y axis rails is really beneficial. I think my plan right now is to mount the blocks and rails to the saddle and then bolt the y rails down to the base and then bolt the table to the x rails. I think this is a lot more realistic than trying to bolt the rails to the bast and table and try to slip them into the blocks on the saddle. So I need enough travel on both axis to be able to access all the screws. That's not a problem on the table as it' got lots of travel already, so this weekend I focused on the Y axis.

    Now I know these look a little silly, and by no means to I plan on machining anything on them, but they will make installation a snap.
    fitting the bracket for match drilling...


    Rails all trimmed to length and new brackets all mounted up...



    I also have been reading the installation manual for these rails and it seems the "right" way to do it is to capture the master rail so it can't shift under load. Now I'm way to lazy to machine the base for a nice reference edge and make a bunch of clamps to pinch it in place...so for the fun of it I took one of the pieces of rail that had been cut off and drilled a 1/8" hole in it. Well wouldn't you know it drills like butter! the rails must be case hardened around the ball carriers. So I've now drilled the master rails for 3 1/8" roll pins. that should keep it in place!



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