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Thread: Matt's Grizzly G0602 CNC Conversion

  1. #61
    Member Turbo442's Avatar
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    I am going to start my my lathe enclosure and electronics cabinet. Here is my feeble attempt at documenting what I chose for electronics and how they are wired before it is ripped off the board. Some things may change in the future, but this is the basic setup I have been testing with lately. One thing to note. The C41 board does not need a external 12V power supply to function correctly. I am only using a 5V DC 2amp power supply and a 48V 12amp power supply with this setup.

















  2. #62
    Member Turbo442's Avatar
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    I ordered an external braking resistor for the VFD from Amazon. Will see how well it works in a day or two.

    Amico Ceramic Tube 100 Ohm 5% 300W Fixed

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The VFD will trip an Over Current error if it decelerates too hard with the internal resistor. Usually 2 seconds or less deceleration time, but it is not consistent, possibly changes with heat. Obviously if I set deceleration around 4 to 5 seconds there is no issue. This is a problem because I have not been able to out put the VFD error state to mach yet. Mach could keep running with the VFD stopped in an error state I fussed around with it the other day but didn't quite get it yet. I assume I want to have a VFD fault signal trip the mach E-stop or feed hold? When the lathe is spooled up in the 3000 rpm or higher region it does take some significant power to slow it down quickly. I have noticed that when I am in CSS mode (constant surface speed) you really need to have the deceleration set to around 1 second if things are moving fast. You really want to make sure the chuck is locked to the spindle when doing this especially in reverse. Otherwise your chuck could spin off at 3000 rpm and go shooting across the shop. Kind of awesome!!!!!!!!





  3. #63
    Member gd.marsh's Avatar
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    Turbo,

    My Hitachi VFD has a relay that trips whenever the VFD faults. I wired that into my E-Stop & works great!



  4. #64
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    I am interested in how that resistor works out for you. I have a Teco VFD on my lathe and I had to set the decel to pretty long to not trip (like 4-5 secs) but that is with my 6" chuck at top speed (~1800 rpm) on a manual lathe so not a real problem yet...

    Looking real good - I like the surface finish you're getting.

    Miike



  5. #65
    Member Turbo442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gd.marsh View Post
    Turbo,

    My Hitachi VFD has a relay that trips whenever the VFD faults. I wired that into my E-Stop & works great!
    gd.marsh, I enabled the fault relay output on the VFD and was able to see the state change on the BOB of the fault signal. When I get things back together I will revisit this. I think its important for Mach to know the fault state of the VFD. The braking resistor gets a lot more of a work out when running in CSS mode, especially if you are running high spindle speeds.



  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninefinger View Post
    I am interested in how that resistor works out for you. I have a Teco VFD on my lathe and I had to set the decel to pretty long to not trip (like 4-5 secs) but that is with my 6" chuck at top speed (~1800 rpm) on a manual lathe so not a real problem yet...

    Looking real good - I like the surface finish you're getting.

    Miike
    Mike, I was fooling around with a 5 watt 100 ohm resistor I had laying around. I couldn't figure out why it was never getting warm until I realized it popped the first time I tried using it. I think 300W should do it.



  7. #67
    Member Turbo442's Avatar
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    Yesterday evening I shuffled some equipment around in the shop and also moved in a bench I found at the electronics surplus store. Its a beefy industrial work bench with adjustable height. It will allow me some flexibility for placing an electronics cabinet, monitor keyboard stuff.







  8. #68
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    OK,

    Project enclosure commencing.









    This was all done manually with a plasma cutter and tacked in a few places with a mig.

    Last edited by Turbo442; 03-22-2013 at 10:38 PM.


  9. #69
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    This is a sliding enclosure/door. My plan is to mount a top and bottom ground rod with two plastic slider bushings securing the door at the top and bottom. Similar to this setup.



    EDIT: I decided to go with plastic sliders that I made up.

    Last edited by Turbo442; 03-28-2013 at 02:26 AM.


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    Looking really sharp, and I absolutely love that bench, nice find-

    Dave



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    Here is what I have come up with so far. Next I will finish up the enclosure, box it in a bit and weld it together. Tried my best to keep it clean and simple.





  12. #72
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    Will do the other side I think tomorrow. Starting to get rigid now.



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    Making some progress this weekend. Got the sliding enclosure welded up and primed.







    I cut the 18GA sheetmetal with a miller Spectrum 650 Plasma.


    Everything was tacked together with a Lincoln Power Mig255


    I Tiged everything with a Miller Syncrowave 350.


    All are all Craigslist finds.

    Last edited by Turbo442; 04-01-2013 at 01:36 AM.


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  15. #75
    Registered Crevice Reamer's Avatar
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    Looking good. Nice finds. Coolent should do well, but this one is much better for just a dollar more:
    G9810 Magnetic Base w/ Two Coolant Hoses

    If you call before they ship, you can change it.

    CR.

    http://crevicereamer.com
    Too many PMs. Email me to my name plus At A O L dot com.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Crevice Reamer View Post
    Looking good. Nice finds. Coolent should do well, but this one is much better for just a dollar more:
    G9810 Magnetic Base w/ Two Coolant Hoses

    If you call before they ship, you can change it.

    CR.
    CR, I already have the dual head one. I was just thinking of trying the single one to keep it simple. Maybe your right though, I probably will regret it. I use a two port one on my mill. I will call Griz tomorrow, I haven't got an order confirmation yet.



  17. #77
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    Got the side splash shield or side cover done tonight...what ever you want to call it. My shop is an absolute mess right now. Really kind of sucks, I know its gonna take a full 12 hour day to get it back in order. I'm the only one to blame. I wish I could discipline myself to 100% clean up after every step but once it gets to a certain point I seem to stop picking up. Part of the problem is that I am trying to learn this sheet metal stuff as I go. Its kind of a messy process compared to machining.









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    Gorgeous. Well done man.
    Are you going to extend that sideshield any further over the head? Might look nice to have a contiguous frame, especially if you use the extra space to create a pan for fluid/collection.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Topdecking View Post
    Gorgeous. Well done man.
    Are you going to extend that sideshield any further over the head? Might look nice to have a contiguous frame, especially if you use the extra space to create a pan for fluid/collection.
    Thanks Topdecking! I agree that it would probably look cool with a full enclosure. I have kicked the idea around of building a fixed enclosure. It would have an access door on the tailstock end. As it is though, without the full enclosure, I have good access for tool changes, cleaning, tail stock, etc. For now I think I may try running it as it is and see how I feel about it. I suppose one option is to build a fixed rear enclosure that sits directly on the table with a rear access door. The front sliding door would slide underneath the fixed enclosure. The fixed enclosure could sit inside the coolant pan so it didn't move around but still could be lifted out of the way and set aside for cleaning, maintenance, setup.

    My next step is to build a little sheet metal pan that sets on top of the lower front rail/all thread and guides the coolant to the middle of the lathe. Then I will figure out the chip/coolant pan that sits underneath the lathe to collect the coolant. I have two chip pans to work with at the moment. One is the original G0602 pan, another is a 12x36 pan I have from some project. The 12x36 pan is too long and would need to be shortened up, but the sides are much deeper.

    Last edited by Turbo442; 04-03-2013 at 01:44 PM.


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    The automotive parts places have a 24x36 drip pan that might work.

    Don



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