Iron-Man Servo CNC System-Red Candy Running

[Iron-Man]

Talking about things like ceramic bolts for something as low-tech as this is a bit over the top. Use nylon spacers around the bolts. This is how virtually all consumer electronics deal with this very common problem. They spacers are readily available, even from most electronics and hardware stores, and dirt cheap.

Regards,
Ray L.

Do you have a link to the thermal properties of nylon spacers? The OPA549 is capable of 60V @ 10 amps peak. Its tab is internally connected to V-. Any failure in isolation between the tab & heat sink, would cause a catastrophic failure. Also, ceramic fasteners are nothing new.

Thanks,


Iron-Man

[Riceburner98]

Just checked McMaster for giggles... Yikes! $22 for a single #4-40 x 3/8" screw! (P/N 94555A108) Maybe you can get free samples from the companies you mentioned?

[Iron-Man]

Just checked McMaster for giggles... Yikes! $22 for a single #4-40 x 3/8" screw! (P/N 94555A108) Maybe you can get free samples from the companies you mentioned?

That is expensive. I will probably wait and see how well the gap material works.

Iron-Man

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Do you have a link to the thermal properties of nylon spacers? The OPA549 is capable of 60V @ 10 amps peak. Its tab is internally connected to V-. Any failure in isolation between the tab & heat sink, would cause a catastrophic failure. Also, ceramic fasteners are nothing new.

Thanks,


Iron-Man

If ANYTHING in your system is getting anywhere near hot enough that you have to be concerned about the thermal characteristics of the Nylon, then the nylon should be the least of your concerns - You'll be having a hard electronic failure LONG before the Nylon becomes an issue.

Regards,
Ray L.

[BobWarfield]

IronMan, that translucent candy red powder coat is awesome. Thanks for sharing it!

Cheers,

BW

[hoss2006]

IronMan, that translucent candy red powder coat is awesome. Thanks for sharing it!

Cheers,

BW

My thanks too, thanks to rays link, I got one of the Craftsman systems
along with a dozen powders from Columbia Coatings to play with this weekend.
Their Chrome looks almost like the real stuff.
Thanks, Hoss

[Iron-Man]

My thanks too, thanks to rays link, I got one of the Craftsman systems
along with a dozen powders from Columbia Coatings to play with this weekend.
Their Chrome looks almost like the real stuff.
Thanks, Hoss

Depending on the application, compared to anodizing, I think that powder coating is the way to go. The key to powder coating, is to make sure that the part is absolutely oil and contaminant free. Glad to see everyone looking at powder coating.


Iron-Man

[hoss2006]

Depending on the application, compared to anodizing, I think that powder coating is the way to go. The key to powder coating, is to make sure that the part is absolutely oil and contaminant free. Glad to see everyone looking at powder coating.


Iron-Man

I looked into setting up home anodizing and it looks like a PITA, this looks so much easier.
If it's good enough for OCC choppers, it's good enough for me.
Thanks, Hoss

[Iron-Man]

I looked into setting up home anodizing and it looks like a PITA, this looks so much easier.
If it's good enough for OCC choppers, it's good enough for me.
Thanks, Hoss

I can not imagine what my first part would have looked like ,if I had the "old-man" at OCC looking over my shoulder.
When this project is finished, I can't wait to start on a larger mill, X2 or G0704.

Iron-Man

[Starleper1]

I was into powder coating for quite awhile. I used the Eastwood Hot Coat kit and powders. Very easy to use but like any industry there are tricks to it. First off is prep work. The better the part appears before coating the better it will look after. Also when doing cast aluminum you need to pre-bake it at a higher temp (usually 500deg) to bake out the oil in the aluminum.

I made some decent coin on the side doing all types of metals for different people. I got out of it though because it's a very dirty operation. It may not seem too bad at first but after awhile you will have a fine layer of powder on EVERYTHING. It really needs a dedicated room with some type of ventilation.

Now if your doing it here and there just to do a few small parts for yourself you'll be fine but I was doing large quantities of parts.

Also I want to warn you first timers. Don't use your oven that you use to cook food in. The powder gives off a harmful gas as it's cured. Not good to mix with food.

~Scott

[Iron-Man]

Just finished more of the powder coating and flats for the reducer shafts.
Next time I will try a chrome powder and then follow up with a candy powder.
I will probably have to use a dual voltage gun.
Also completed the remainder of the pulleys. Servo motor pulleys bored to 0.3150"".


Iron-Man

[Iron-Man]

Here is a picture of the GP5000S35 under the OPA549 Op Amp.
I will place a probe and monitor the temperature.

Iron-Man

[Iron-Man]

I was into powder coating for quite awhile. I used the Eastwood Hot Coat kit and powders. Very easy to use but like any industry there are tricks to it. First off is prep work. The better the part appears before coating the better it will look after. Also when doing cast aluminum you need to pre-bake it at a higher temp (usually 500deg) to bake out the oil in the aluminum.

I made some decent coin on the side doing all types of metals for different people. I got out of it though because it's a very dirty operation. It may not seem too bad at first but after awhile you will have a fine layer of powder on EVERYTHING. It really needs a dedicated room with some type of ventilation.

Now if your doing it here and there just to do a few small parts for yourself you'll be fine but I was doing large quantities of parts.

Also I want to warn you first timers. Don't use your oven that you use to cook food in. The powder gives off a harmful gas as it's cured. Not good to mix with food.

~Scott

Thanks for the great info. What would you recommend for a dual voltage powder gun?

Iron-Man

[Starleper1]

You can spray two stage colors with the gun you have but you have to spray it hot. I use to shoot all my two stage colors back to back. Spray the base color and then right out of the oven after curing spray the second coat but work fast because it will start to cool and the powder won't stick as well. It's nice doing it this way because you don't have to rely entirely on the static charge to hold the powder. The heat will start to set the powder almost immediately. Cover thoroughly and put back in the oven to cure the top coat.

I would try it on a test piece first to get a feel for it.

Eastwood use to have a "Pro" gun that would be able to shoot two stage color but I can't seem to find it. They now have a "dual voltage" gun.

~Scott

[Iron-Man]

IronMan, that translucent candy red powder coat is awesome. Thanks for sharing it!

Cheers,

BW

Bob

Thanks for the posting. Great website and information. Your G Wizard calculator looks great.

Iron-Man

[Iron-Man]

You can spray two stage colors with the gun you have but you have to spray it hot. I use to shoot all my two stage colors back to back. Spray the base color and then right out of the oven after curing spray the second coat but work fast because it will start to cool and the powder won't stick as well. It's nice doing it this way because you don't have to rely entirely on the static charge to hold the powder. The heat will start to set the powder almost immediately. Cover thoroughly and put back in the oven to cure the top coat.

I would try it on a test piece first to get a feel for it.

Eastwood use to have a "Pro" gun that would be able to shoot two stage color but I can't seem to find it. They now have a "dual voltage" gun.

~Scott

Thanks

Iron-Man

[Iron-Man]

I am just about finished, still a few tweaks to make. This mill was a pre-cnc ready model. It was converted to cnc using a Sherline Kit. If you are converting a pre-cnc model here is an excellent link to a video. It is in two parts; Sherline Mill CNC Conversion 1 - blip.tv - Motore di ricerca video Truveo .

The servos are powerful and quiet. The only thing that you can hear is the spindle motor and cooling fans. Sorry about the rough images. I still need to set the correct number of steps in mach. This was a quick test, with calculated servo parameters and motor tuning. Covers on the servos were left off and lead screws were tightened just enough to test. I must locate more scrap materials for testing. In addition, the gap-pad material has worked excellent. The OPA 549s were cool to the touch, lots of surface area and forced air cooling.
Enjoy,

Iron-Man

[Iron-Man]

Here are a few pictures of calibration and testing of the servo system.
Specs: Mach 3, 1/8 inch end mill. I did not have the correct end mill for the initial pocket test (2024 Al) and was not able to alter the initial settings in the demo version of Mach 3. This would have been a lot better with a engraving bit and higher RPM. After a few more test I will machine out a template for the I/O and power connectors to the CNC controller and powder coat them.

Iron-Man

[Iron-Man]

First Iron-Man Servo CNC milled part. I rescaled the batman logo dxf file in Turbocad professional v12.5 mechanical edition, followed by a resetting of the (x,y,z) reference point. The part was then cleaned up with 600 grit sandpaper. I am not sure what the specs are on the Al as it was obtained from an electronic surplus store. The batman logo is 5.25" x 2.57".
Specs: Mach 3, 1/8 end mill, feed 2 in/min. The cut seemed a bit gummy. I will try a faster feed rate next time.


Iron-Man

[Iron-Man]

Just wanted to get an idea of how many would be interested in Iron-Man Servo Amps. Would you prefer surface mount technology or through hole? Kit form or complete board? Also, how many would be interested in the servo reducers?, Kit, complete unit, drawings etc.

Updates: I have switched over to EMC2.

I will post video when I can.


Iron-Man