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Thread: My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive

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    Member knudsen's Avatar
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    Default My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive

    Well, I had to call it a 20 buck drive, because it was inspired by chukki's My $20.00 X2 belt drive thread. There are more ideas on hlombard's My $40 X2 Belt drive thread. These are not the first or only path though, as blades did a X2 Timing Belt drive (cheap, of course!) a few months before chukki. While I had planned to do the $20 conversion, I was pressed to do so when I grenaded two gears in ten minutes why fly cutting a part in attempt to improve the oiler for my Cheap and easy upgrade: Brass Gibs for my 7 x cross feed. In the past I never had a problem fly cutting with the stock plastic gear, but this was some mystery metal that was throwing red hot chips. Didn't even sound bad! I like chukki's method, because it retains the lower gears and the high/low function. I don't use the low setting often, but with the increased spindle speed, I think that will be important for my uses of the mill.

    I'm using similar parts from MSC, because they usually deliver uber fast to IN and with the free shipping promo (google for the current month) is cheaper than SDP. I didn't notice "4 days from NV" on the shopping cart until after I ordered. So, I guess to MSC, in stock means it's somewhere on the planet! The difference in parts is the pulleys are steel and the belt is .2" shorter. The shorter length may require an adjustable motor mount, and I like that idea anyway, so am am proceeding with that modification, and I am going to attempt to use set screws instead of keys/keyways. My fingers and toes are crossed, because I am doing those mods without instruction. I will attempt to explain as I go, in case someone is desperate enough to follow my ways.

    I have the adjustment parts made, and modification of the motor mounting plate, but no pictures yet. This has been a good reminder of how bad it sucks to try and mill with a drill press. Looks like it was done while drunk. I've adjusted my signature to match the parts (I hope, fingers and toes crossed). Hopefully, others' who may attempt this have access to a 2nd mill. Tonight, I am on the pulleys, happily, lathe work!

    Here are the purchased parts, the rest from the scrap bin:

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-20buckbeltdrv-jpg  
    Last edited by knudsen; 09-03-2010 at 12:10 AM.
    Wen I was young, I spent most of my money on fast women, slow horses, and cheap booze. The rest of it I just wasted.


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    Nice,

    Paid $5 for mine. had to buy the belt. I got the aluminum from a scrap bin at work and machined everything myself. best way to go DIY



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    Member knudsen's Avatar
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    I thought about making a copy of the v-belt type, but with a dead mill, my machining capacity is pretty limited, so off the shelf timing pulleys are awefully attractive right now. I was leaning towards this conversion anyway, for several reasons. I don't think I would spend the time to make toothed pulleys, I just don't get much time in the shop to play. You should post some pics of your conversion!

    Here you can see how hacked up my gear cover motor mount thingy is, and my new mill (the dambid drill press). The parts for the motor adjustment were left in water to get a little rust on them. Saves me a step in blackening them. The rust came off with a paper towel, then I sprayed them with "Extend" rust converter.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3158-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3159-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3155-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3156-jpg  

    My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3157-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3160-jpg  
    Wen I was young, I spent most of my money on fast women, slow horses, and cheap booze. The rest of it I just wasted.


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    Member knudsen's Avatar
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    While waiting for the rust converter to dry, I finished modifications to the cover. Clamping scrap CI to it facilitated drilling and tapping the half round and half threads for the adjusting screws. By the time I finished that, the adjusting parts were nice and black, dry, and HOT from the heat lamp. A "dry" run of the motor mount seemed to work well. Finger tight, they held the motor. Hopefully, tightening a little more won't crack the CI cover. Also I can see the pulley from above, and hopefully adjus tits' height and tighten the set screws if need be. I'll use shorter screws upon final assembly. I just used my longest #10's to see how long I would need. I had planned on using 1/4-20's, but decided they would make the cover too thin, so this was an on-the-fly change. I also raised them up a bit so only about 1/3 of the diameter of the screws are into the top of the cover, and the scrap CI took about 2/3 of the drilling and tapping. You can see the motor shaft is about 1/4" offset towards making the pulleys closer together. That's the direction i will need to adjust for the short belt. I might get an extra 1/8" past center going the other way, and I can hog out the holes in the cover a little more if i ever need the pulleys further apart.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3162-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3163-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3164-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3165-jpg  

    My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3166-jpg  
    Last edited by knudsen; 09-03-2010 at 12:51 AM.
    Wen I was young, I spent most of my money on fast women, slow horses, and cheap booze. The rest of it I just wasted.


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    I did get the pulleys finished tonight, barely. It looks like with a 1/4" spacer, there will be plenty of room to retain the original hubs and use the set screws. Alternate plan is to cut the hub off the larger pulley and drill a set screw hole right through the teeth. The small pulley is not a problem with the motor raised for the adjustment and visibility. Cut the flanges off the smaller pulley, as that will be the one I can see, and it's usually easier to get a belt onto a smaller pulley than larger. Time will tell... I did cut some material off the larger flanges and re-cut a taper to guide the belt. Left full sized, even with flanges gone on the smaller one, it would be hard to assemble as the flanges almost hit the smaller pulley. Also bored to fit the shaft. Motor shaft is about 2/3 into the pulley and hub. They are a light press fit and the screw holes are lined up on the keyways on the shafts.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3167-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3168-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3169-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3170-jpg  

    Last edited by knudsen; 09-04-2010 at 03:06 PM.
    Wen I was young, I spent most of my money on fast women, slow horses, and cheap booze. The rest of it I just wasted.


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    Quote Originally Posted by knudsen View Post
    and hopefully adjus tits' height and tighten
    Ha ha many doctors getting paid a lot of $$ for that technique



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    LOL I better leave that typo in for others' to enjoy!

    I looked it over at lunch today, thinking about gnawing the hub off the larger pulley so I don't need to make a plate to raise the cover 1/4". Six of one, half dozen of the other, but machining the pulley would be the fastest option.

    Wen I was young, I spent most of my money on fast women, slow horses, and cheap booze. The rest of it I just wasted.


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    Well, I went ahead and cut the hub off the pully, drilled, tapped and meticulously deburred with a debur tool, then swiss files, then micr files, then buffed it on a fiber wheel. It fit without jacking up the cover, but only with 2 molecules of air, one above and one below the toothed pulley! I did not know until it was too late, but the shaft the large pulley rides on floats; it can be pressed down about 3/8", either by design or malfunction, but either way, I should have left some of the hub in place to hold it up. If I had a do-over, I'd probably leave the hub on and jack up the cover. I may need to make a spacer it it starts to rub. Motor adjustment works perfectly! And it is super quiet. I don't know how the guys that do not have the adjustment ever got the belt on. I can also easily reach the set screws for the smaller motor pulley. Pics to come soon.

    Wen I was young, I spent most of my money on fast women, slow horses, and cheap booze. The rest of it I just wasted.


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    Are you using the belt to drive the internal head gears?



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    Nope, those gears remain, so we can keep the high/low shift function. They don't make the noise, and I'll put metal ones in if they break. If you want to get rid of those all together, you can do a blades conversion, or buy or copy the dual pully two speed belt drive (~$120ish IIRC). The two speed kits have been fading in and out of stock lately.

    Wen I was young, I spent most of my money on fast women, slow horses, and cheap booze. The rest of it I just wasted.


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    That is what I did. I do not use the high and low function. I haven't seen it done using the gearing inside the head... seems like it defeats the purpose.



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    I guess that depends on what your purpose of converting is. According to chukki (I didn't do that math), we get:

    Super quiet
    4250 RPM in high
    Use stock gear change for high/low – I don’t hear the internal gears
    Before conversion we had:

    Low Range: 0 - 1100 RPM
    High Range: 0 - 2500 RPM

    After conversion:

    Low Range: 0 - 1870 RPM
    High Range: 0 - 4250 RPM

    So in low range, we get a little more grunt than the old high range, and in high range, we get a faster spindle speed. Increased reliability as we replace the top gear that explodes if you look at it funny. If the bottom gears give me trouble or if I have it opened up for other reasons, I'll just get metal gears for $40 from LMS.

    Wen I was young, I spent most of my money on fast women, slow horses, and cheap booze. The rest of it I just wasted.


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    OK, here you can see the 1/4-20 setscrew in the large pulley. I ran it for ten minutes with no belt wear, so I guess I got it deburred and polished enough. To do again, I would drill between teeth, in the valley.

    You barely see the setscrew on the motor pulley. It's more visible and accessible than it looks in the photo. It was very easy to tighten firmly with one screw in the motor shaft's keyway.

    I'm overall pleased with it. Very little room above and below the large pulley. I might shim the cover a bit. Or just let the parts machine each other if they rub I'm going to lock-tite the setscrews, assemble and reverse the motor wiring or add a fwd/rev switch.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3247-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3245-jpg   My 20 Buck x2 Belt Drive-dscf3246-jpg  
    Wen I was young, I spent most of my money on fast women, slow horses, and cheap booze. The rest of it I just wasted.


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