Lubrication

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Thread: Lubrication

  1. #1

    Default Lubrication

    On decent machines usually a ballscrew is already setup with a lubrication point. Often even an auto or oneshot oiler feeds way oil to that point. However, on cheaper machines ort home built machines they seem to be run on the grease originally packed in the nut until they die. I don't know how long that is usually, but it can't be the 20+ years of some of the big mills with auto oilers. What can we do to improve the life of those cheap ballscrews a lot of us can afford for our home builds? A tear down and regrease hardly seems practical. Often that very assembly process of the machine is part of its accuracy and alignment. Tearing it apart to get to a ball nut to service it hardly seems wise.

    ???

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    Bob La Londe
    http://www.YumaBassMan.com


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    Default Re: Lubrication

    I'd like to also hear what's possible as I am in the same spot now.



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    Default Re: Lubrication

    On the old Journeyman we had, Tree Machine company recommended applying lithium based grease directly on the ballscrew and running the axis back and forth. Seemed to work fine, lasted for 30+ yrs.



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    Default Re: Lubrication

    I use a fine coat of mineral oil using a sponge, i run machine 7 days a week and i usually do it every month but still find a coating there when i come to do it. I used to use lithium grease but found it got heavy with dust when my the nut started spitting out shattered balls, I believe it clogged up with the stuff and damaged the ball return jumpers.

    Only problem with mineral oil is no matter how fine you get it on there when you run the nut up and down it will build up at ends of the screw and flick off. So i find a wipe on and then follow nut with a rag to wipe off excess works.



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    Default Re: Lubrication

    I used to use lithium grease but found it got heavy with dust when my the nut started spitting out shattered balls,
    Possible I guess. I never had that extreme of a failure so I can't say that, lithium based grease led up to your particular problem.

    I find most people over lubricate the ballnuts. They visually see that the screw is dry and shiny and figure it needs more oil or grease. In actuality, the oil and grease is only supposed to be a very thin film between the balls and screw race. It's also why manufacturers have recommended lube intervals. Just be vigilant as more is not always better in this case.



  6. #6

    Default Re: Lubrication

    I'm leaning towards automatic oilers on all machine builds for bearings and screws. Not a lot of oil per point, but frequent intervals with oil metering devices at each point. I've got one machine I've had for years that's setup that way. The original build of the machine is from 1981. It oils automatically every 15 minutes.

    When I setup my Syil X4 Speedmaster I programmed it for a shot of oil every 15 minutes as well. So far its working beautifully with about 1000 hours of run time.

    Wow! I originally posted this thread over 2 years ago.

    Bob La Londe
    http://www.YumaBassMan.com


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob La Londe View Post
    I'm leaning towards automatic oilers on all machine builds for bearings and screws. Not a lot of oil per point, but frequent intervals with oil metering devices at each point. I've got one machine I've had for years that's setup that way. The original build of the machine is from 1981. It oils automatically every 15 minutes.

    When I setup my Syil X4 Speedmaster I programmed it for a shot of oil every 15 minutes as well. So far its working beautifully with about 1000 hours of run time.

    Wow! I originally posted this thread over 2 years ago.
    Really that frequent? The carriages must drip oil then? I find one shot a day is to much.

    I give mine a shot once a week. And there's still a film on rail and screw on day 7. But that's on a router not a mill so dripping oil is a big issue.



  8. #8

    Default Re: Lubrication

    I could see that being an issue on any machine that cuts wood or paper or anything else that could be damaged by oil.

    Bob La Londe
    http://www.YumaBassMan.com


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    Default Re: Lubrication

    Has anyone tried using dry lubricants like silicone or graphite? A thin film of grease or oil is a dust magnet, and in a wood shop there's no way to avoid that. I've noticed buildup from the dust and grease that gets pressed onto the screws and requires real elbow grease to clean off.



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