CRP4896 Standard to Linear Rail Conversion

[wmgeorge]

I did not use a machinist level to level the machine.

As far as I can tell the tops of my rail are as flat as I can possibly make them.

I was going to use a modified version of AvidCNCs install method, but not just from the ends. I was also going to hit a few places in the middle with the clamping fixture before tightening the rest of the screws.

There are hundreds of Avid / CNCRP machines running and making things everyday that are set up that just way.

[nlancaster]

exactly!

[GME]

I did not use a machinist level to level the machine.

As far as I can tell the tops of my rail are as flat as I can possibly make them.

I was going to use a modified version of AvidCNCs install method, but not just from the ends. I was also going to hit a few places in the middle with the clamping fixture before tightening the rest of the screws.

Your being satisfied with the methodology your using is what counts. You are the one who will be using your machine. I'm just an old guy who's probably too much of a perfectionist, and who suffers when I fail to attain what I'm going for. For folk like me, perfectionism is both a blessing (when things go right) and a curse (when things go wrong).

There are hundreds of Avid / CNCRP machines running and making things everyday that are set up that just way.

Maybe thousands sold by now in total, but who's counting?

I agree with your assessment. I suspect the vast majority of owners bought their machines to cut wood (they are routers, after all). For many, getting to within 1/32" is acceptable in woodworking and even a machine put together so-so, will probably achieve a 1/32". For signs, plaques and other parts that don't have to fit together, most probably wouldn't notice the effects of less-than-perfect machine assembly or an even greater than 1/32" tolerance. Get into cutting dovetails and inlays, or large fit-together parts like large cabinets, the more precision the better IMO. It all depends upon what folks want their machine to do and what they they find acceptable. To each his own.

Gary

[nlancaster]

We have built boats with my existing machine.

[GME]

We have built boats with my existing machine.

Very cool. What kind of boats? Where did you get your lofting plans? I want to make half hull models of some classic sailboats, e.g., Bluenose schooner. On the CNC, of course. I've looked around some for plans, but I haven't had much luck finding them. I've been playing with CAD and think I may be able to transfer lofting to the computer without cost prohibitive specialized marine architect software.

I'm sailboat guy. Back in my younger days, I sometimes crewed on larger racing boats. Mostly filling in when a regular crew member couldn't make it to a race. What a hoot!

Gary

[nlancaster]

My dad has built 2 canoes, 2 rowboats, a paddleboard, and currently a power boat, with parts from the cnc router.

He is also in the process of building a 34ft live aboard sail boat.

The plans all came from my dad, designed in solidworks.

[ger21]

He must have a lot of free time...

[GME]

My dad has built 2 canoes, 2 rowboats, a paddleboard, and currently a power boat, with parts from the cnc router.

He is also in the process of building a 34ft live aboard sail boat.

The plans all came from my dad, designed in solidworks.

Your father sound like a very talented guy. Feel free to post photos. Folks around here like seeing what can be done with a CNC.

Just curious, but what is he using for the hull of the liveaboard, i.e., wood, fiberglass, steel or aluminum?

Gary

[nlancaster]

All of his boats have been wood, primarily plywood. And yes he has alot of time on his hands, having been retired for 20 years already.

I don't have alot of pictures of his boats. This album has the powerboat, and a camper he built. most of the parts cut on the cnc router.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qDaXfkLvxAskxkTV9

[GME]

All of his boats have been wood, primarily plywood. And yes he has alot of time on his hands, having been retired for 20 years already.

I don't have alot of pictures of his boats. This album has the powerboat, and a camper he built. most of the parts cut on the cnc router.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qDaXfkLvxAskxkTV9

Very nice.

[nlancaster]

cutting the last component, I will get some pictures up tomarrow.

[nlancaster]

$180 cost of aluminum, 6 hours of machining/setup = $600 worth of parts if I was selling it.

[GME]

$180 cost of aluminum, 6 hours of machining/setup = $600 worth of parts if I was selling it.

Nice job! Your plates look a lot different than Avid's. Looks like there isn't going to be a lot of room for the head of the screw that attaches to the linear rail bearing block - the one in the pocket. Maybe it's just the camera angle. Are your plates thicker than Avid's, hence the pocket? Will probably make more sense when post pictures of them mounted.

Jeez, but aluminum sure is expensive.

Gary

[nlancaster]

So my plates are 3/4 and so are Avids. I went with a pocket for the stepper drive system instead of a pocket for the linear carriage mounts.

The linear carriage bolt holes are 1mm oversize, and the head pocket is 1mm oversize. Should be plenty of room.

If you compare my design above to avids you will see that I reversed the aluminum extrusion to the inside of the plates, because my bed is already 57inches wide, the regular pro machine bed is only 50inches(aproximatly) wide.

[GME]

So my plates are 3/4 and so are Avids. I went with a pocket for the stepper drive system instead of a pocket for the linear carriage mounts.

The linear carriage bolt holes are 1mm oversize, and the head pocket is 1mm oversize. Should be plenty of room.

If you compare my design above to avids you will see that I reversed the aluminum extrusion to the inside of the plates, because my bed is already 57inches wide, the regular pro machine bed is only 50inches(aproximatly) wide.

I came to the conclusion that you reversed the pocket. The linear rail blocks wouldn't mount otherwise. All the bolt holes looked properly sized, however, the hole in the pocket looked like it was too close to the edge of the pocket. I know you would have avoided an issue like that. The camera angle was deceiving.

Makes sense why you reversed the pocket.

Gary

[nlancaster]

Been working too much, Got back to this today.

Tapped 39 holes today.....

23 1/4-20
10 5/16-18
6 3/8-16

Used a tapping press and managed to not break any taps!!!

[nlancaster]

Engine turning all the conversion parts before I get them anodized.

[Sterob]

Very nice!
How did you achieve that effect?
Will it will show through the anodizing?

[nlancaster]

It should show thru anodizing just fine, as anodizing just changes the surface to aluminum oxide and introduces color to the process at the same moment.

I did it with a fine roll lock pad in my spindle, 8000rpm .075 step down to compress the roll lock pad, 1/2 second dwell time

Here is a video.

[dgage]

So very cool! Thank you for sharing!