Quick question re: threaded wasteboards.

[curiosity22]

My bucket list project coming up soon is to make a threaded waste board. No big deal.

Just wondering is there an ideal pattern to follow spacing between the threads? or is it more just make it work to suite?

Is custom wood ok? thickness?

Should I have a mix of say 5mm to 8mm threads any advantage to this or just stick to one measurement.

If there are any pictures or links please let me know.


Cheers,
Steve

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[peteeng]

Hi Steve - My board has a grid of 200mm square thread inserts into plywood. They are M8 wouldn't use smaller. They are timber inserts not T nuts. Advantage is if I need to put one in because of some reason I can place it straight from the top. But the original grid could be T nuts, just good to have some inserts in the kit. They do fill up with sawdust so I put masking tape over the ones not in use. I make my clamps from 40x20 pine and they are very good because you can add a hole or slot quick to adjust them. They get chewed occasionally so they start long and get shorter. If your using mdf make it thick enough to give clearance to the T nuts.

T nuts and inserts are $$$ in OZ. e bay buy 100 and they are 15c each. Peter

[curiosity22]

Hey G'day,

Thanks for taking the time. I appreciate the pics, that's more or less how I was thinking about making mine,

I have some 1 inch think mdf sheets at home a friend gave them to me a long time ago. I was thinking tho the wood inserts I would have to drill at the back and flip the board. I think the inserts would pull out if they were on top.

I can always ask my kids to pick up some plywood for me.

Quick question the piece you are working on, I don't see whats holding the two together.. Glued? I see the clamps on the sides.

[peteeng]

hi Steve, Yes they are glued, its the first stage in the piece. Didn't work out the way I wanted though!! Got to this point then the wood changed shape opening up cracks that I did not see in the pieces before I glued them!! The cutting of the profile relived the piece so it could open up. So had to start again. Next attempt single piece of clear wood. Here's the back of it, its held on with a vacuum clamp. Made for a friend who has bees and lives on a lane called honey bee lane. Peter

[curiosity22]

Hey thanks for that,

Funny you should mention bee's my very good friend used to keep bee's back in his homeland. He has just bought some easyflow hives. I think he bought two, will be keeping them in his back yard. You gave me an idea I could carve up something for him as well for good luck.

ty for sharing that.

Cheers,
Steve

[pippin88]

I have Tee nuts but if I was to do it again, I would probably use standard hex nuts. CNC cut the pockets and through holes and then flip the board and fix it down.

Tee nuts often don't have a good thread lead in from one side - mine can be a real pain to get the bolt started in. Hex nuts are chamfered both sides (easy to get the bolt in) and cheap.

[ger21]

I have T Nuts, and have not had any issues with them. I'll likely do it again on my next machine.

I have a grid of 3"x3" at the 0,0 position, increasing to 4"x4" halfway down the table. I use cam clamps in them, and uses spacers when needed.

[curiosity22]

Hex nuts definitely cheap, a little glue would keep them from dropping out. I have profiles running in the x position so I would need to ensure they dont go anywhere. Ty for that.

[curiosity22]

Another good idea thank you. I've seen cam clamps never used them before. I take it seeing as your using them that they hold up ok.

Cheers and ty..