Part wanted for Epilog Legend Model 6000...Y axis servo motor

[GrahamS]

Hi,
Just found the fault in the above laser...a dead Y axis motor.
I would like some advice re sourcing a Y axis motor either a second hand unit or a new one.
I tried the company on the motor (YASKAWA MOTOR Co.) with no luck...not surprising since the laser is a 2001 model.
Any help would be much appreciated.
GrahamS

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[Sterob]

I'm not familiar with that motor. Is it a stepper?
Can you pull it apart to see whats wrong with it?
Might be worth a shot, if possible?

- - - Updated - - -

I'm not familiar with that motor. Is it a stepper?
Can you pull it apart to see whats wrong with it?
Might be worth a shot, if possible?

[GrahamS]

Hi Sterob,
Thanks for your interest.
I think that it is a permament magnet dc motor with an encoder on the opposite end to the drive pulley.
The only spec sheet I could get said not under any circumstances to dismantle it.
I just got a quote from a USA servo repair company for USD800..!!!
Regards
GrahamS

[RCaffin]

It would help everyone if you included nameplate specs and a photo. Otherwise we do not have a clue what you are talking about.
Fwiiw - if it is a DC servo motor with an encoder, you have hordes of options.

Cheers
Roger

[GrahamS]

Hi MCaffin,

I thank you for your response and have hopefully provided sufficient details to identify the item.
The motor label is literally as below.

MINERTIA F
MOTOR SERIES
UGFMED -09SEP11
0P0207
00.08
YASKAWA ELECTRIC CORPORATION

The unit is a permanent magnet dc motor with a 1000 line quadrature output encoder.I was hoping that someone would know of an engraver grave yard operation and would respond with a bit of
chat and that all would be sorted.



Thanks again for your advice
Kind regards
GrahamS

[Sterob]

I'd be pulling it apart to try and see what the problem is. It might be just worn brushes.

[RCaffin]

I agree - check the brushes. They might be worn out, they might be jammed, or both. Imho, those motors are rather rugged and should survive a lot of mistreatment. You might also check the wiring and the driver - they are probably more likely to fail than the motor.

I will add that replacement Minertia UGFMED motors seems to be listed by various vendors and also on eBay. You may even be able to buy a replacement motor WITH encoder fitted. Mind you, adding an encoder to such a motor is very simple - they come in kit form.

Incidentally - you don't have to have an exact match for the motor. DC servo motors like that are very flexible.

Cheers
Roger

[GrahamS]

Hi Roger and Sterob,

I took your advice and googled the motor again using the correct model ie: UJFMED and lo and behold as you
said there are numerous suppliers and also re-builders of this motor.
So thanks for the spur to continue the search using the the correct model detail(The motor label was showing
what I was seeing as the first character to be a "J")
The reason for removing the motor was that as I was positioning the gantry the Y axis stopped moving ,I heard
an unfamiliar noise and touched the motor body which was quite hot so I switched the laser off and removed the motor.
The rotor was stiff to turn and bench testing with a variable DC power supply resulted in jerky very low speed rotation.
So I started to search for a replacement/rebuild quote. A USA re-build company wanted USD800 + postage and handling!
I have contacted an Australian company to re-build it for a reasonable price.
The laser itself was an insurance write off (had been on fire)so I re-built it and it has run very well for some time until this event happened.
I had noticed that the Y axis was a wee bit lumpy and had promised myself that I would check it out in the near future.
As I stripped the motor out I noticed that bits of painters masking tape had accumulated in the toothed drive belt along
withe the traces of the residue from the fire....I had not noticed this and thought the lumpiness n the axis movement
was in part due to the tension of the drive belts and due to the belts also setting a bit when not used for long intervals.
I have had a bad experience with a DC PM motor that died when over heated so I was not keen to get into stripping it.
It does not have externally accessible brushes so I elected to leave it to experts in the re-build fix it.

Kind regards guys for your inerest

Graham

PS. Roger I did not notice when I first replied to your post that your name was in fact Roger.Sorry about that.

[RCaffin]

Name miss-spelt? Forget it!

Personally, I like DC servo motors. They are fast, powerful and can take a LOT of transient abuse. Cheapish too.
Tape on the belt? Clean it off - very lumpy.
Otherwise - happy to have been of use.

Cheers
Roger

[PeteL]

I agree - check the brushes. They might be worn out, they might be jammed, or both. Imho, those motors are rather rugged and should survive a lot of mistreatment. You might also check the wiring and the driver - they are probably more likely to fail than the motor.

I will add that replacement Minertia UGFMED motors seems to be listed by various vendors and also on eBay. You may even be able to buy a replacement motor WITH encoder fitted. Mind you, adding an encoder to such a motor is very simple - they come in kit form.

Incidentally - you don't have to have an exact match for the motor. DC servo motors like that are very flexible.

Cheers
Roger

Hi Roger - old thread - hoping for some advice and unable to PM you. NEWBIE here with the same laser engraver as Graham and a Y motor issue. My encoder was damaged on reassembly after I had it rewound - and I have not been able to find another for this motor. You had mentioned an external encoder kit? Could you suggest one that could work here? Thanks - desperate to get my machine running again! Cheers - Pete

[GrahamS]

Hi ,
Regarding your damaged encoder ...are you able to remove the encoder cover?
Is the damage mechanical in nature or electrical?
If electrical is the wiring broken or the connector damaged ? If so then you may be able to repair that.
If not the above it will be advisable to look for any identifying numbering on the encoder assembly.
Let me know if you can see any lettering or numbering and we could take it from there.
Also can you tell me if you have any electronic sevicing ability so I can help wxplain any details that may come up.
Any photos may also help me to help you.
Regards Graham

[PeteL]

Hi ,
Regarding your damaged encoder ...are you able to remove the encoder cover?
Is the damage mechanical in nature or electrical?
If electrical is the wiring broken or the connector damaged ? If so then you may be able to repair that.
If not the above it will be advisable to look for any identifying numbering on the encoder assembly.
Let me know if you can see any lettering or numbering and we could take it from there.
Also can you tell me if you have any electronic sevicing ability so I can help wxplain any details that may come up.
Any photos may also help me to help you.
Regards Graham

Hi Graham - thanks very much for your offer to help. I don't currently have the motor in my possession. The tech has told me that metal wheel inside the encoder assembly has been bent - he has straightened it up to the best of his ability but is not certain if it will work - we won't know until it's back in the machine. It's better news than yesterday. So I guess Plan A is to get it back and see if all works - failing that I will definitely contact you - thank you again. Pete

[GrahamS]

Hi Pete,
Good to hear back from you.
The encoder disc is replaceable from the the maker of the encoder unit.This is the black block which has a slot for the wheel to pass through.
It has 1000 slots in it though which the Infra red light passes or not to provide pulses to the internal detector.
Then a Google search of the markings on the "black block" will lead you to the manufacturer.
It may be that the black block is ok and that your tech will be able to re-flatten the wheel.
Good luck.
Let me know how you get on
Regards
Graham

[RCaffin]

Sorry about the full mailbox - now partly emptied.

A search on eBay for 'optical encoder' will get you many hits. They come in two classes: older expensive ones with their own bearings and new ones such as the HEDS models which use the motor bearings. The older ones possess zero advantages imho, and on modern gear have been displaced. There are other 'newer' brands very similar. When you buy a kit it should come with a little explanation pamphlet on how the fit and align the unit. You can also buy similar optical encoders from big distributors such as Mouser, RS Components, etc.

Have fun!
Cheers
Roger