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View Full Version : Deciced on dynatorch, need help



rghmachine
02-13-2010, 12:21 PM
Im looking at a 5x10 table. Going to be building my own table per there plans. Is there anything that I should and should not be buying with this machine? Like software upgrades, collision, smoke table or build own? Then on to plama's, have decided on hypertherm but dont know if to go with 1250 or 1650. I have 3 phase so no issues there. I just would like user responses other then salesman responses. This is a great site and have loved reading all the posts on dynatorch, looks like a great machine. Thanks for the help. And all other comments welcome too.

slammedxonair
02-13-2010, 01:25 PM
How thick of material are you planning on cutting? I bought a 1250 and started out cutting at 80 amps then 60 amps and now I cut everything I can at 40 amps, it takes longer to cut but makes a better part (up to 1/4" holes and whatnot)

WSS
02-13-2010, 01:40 PM
Slammed's questions are important. What will you cut? Get a laser, it is really helpful. Build your table a little stronger than you think you will need.

Start a build thread for your machine before you get started, the ideas and suggestions from experienced DT users (and others) have big value.

I have had mine up and running for about three months. It has many refinements due to input from other members.

As far as plasma units go.... A hypertherm for sure. The three phase unit will cost less to run. A 1250 will do almost everything that a 1650 will do (5/8" with occasional 3/4" pierce) but the 1650 will do it with a better duty cycle.

Have fun!
WSS

rghmachine
02-13-2010, 02:17 PM
Mostly will probably be 1/4, but am sure there will be 1/2 all the way up to 1in or more, just dont want to be kicking myself down the road going should have got the bigger one. Dont know if the 1650 will hinder me on lighter stuff or not? I have never been around a machine torch or hypertherm and havent a clue what they are capable of. Looks like the possibilities of making things are endless with these machines. I am planning on the laser, looks very handy for setting things up. Thanks for the replies so far

magma-joe
02-13-2010, 02:44 PM
Rghmachine,

I would also consider the collision detection system. That is the one item that I did not purchase for my Dynatorch upgrade and now plan to. With out the collision sensor you will have to keep a very close eye on the machine for part tip ups during any cuts. Also if you are new to plasma cutting there is a very high percentage chance that you will crash the torch into the material from improper settings.

Magma-joe

WSS
02-13-2010, 04:14 PM
Mostly will probably be 1/4, but am sure there will be 1/2 all the way up to 1in or more, just dont want to be kicking myself down the road going should have got the bigger one. Dont know if the 1650 will hinder me on lighter stuff or not? I have never been around a machine torch or hypertherm and havent a clue what they are capable of. Looks like the possibilities of making things are endless with these machines. I am planning on the laser, looks very handy for setting things up. Thanks for the replies so far

The 1650 will be a good choice. You will need oxy/fuel for 3/4" and up. You can do short runs or edge starts on 3/4" with plasma but the benefits are almost equal at 3/4".

Yesterday I cut with both 40amp and 100 amp torch parts (I need to get my hands on some fine cut parts). The 1650 cuts just as nice at 40amps as it does at 100amps for me. I suppose the bevel is the same with all the Powermax series, but I notice I can get under 1 degree of bevel on 1/2" and above with the 1650.


magma-joe is spot on with the collision detector. I knocked mine off yesterday during a rapid and the gantry moved a full 36" before I could hit the E-stop. I don't have the collision detector (YET).

WSS

jimcolt
02-14-2010, 05:01 PM
The Powermax1000, 1250 and 1650 share the same cut processes and consumables at the lower power ranges. All three will cut identically from 60 amps down.

Jim Colt

Mike Ray
02-15-2010, 11:44 AM
Check out my thread. You need to pay attention to Air and Smoke collection.
I second the laser site. I cut as much free hand as I do CNC and it really helps lining things up and for doing "dry runs" !!

I did not get the smoke detector and got the tube cutter. I wish I had done the reverse.

I would make sure you get dual X drive (Don't know if you can get the single drive anymore).

rghmachine
02-15-2010, 01:54 PM
Thanks for all the replies so far. I decided to go with the 1650. I totally forgot about the collision and for the price looks like a good investment. What have you guys thought of the dyna torch dust collector? Looks like it could be easily made? Is the software upgrade a must too? Another question I have is what is the actuall machine size when set up. I am thinking of building a room over it to help isolate some of the dust and help keep from pulling heat out of my shop in the winter if I build a dust collector. What are some other things that you guys have came across that you would do different? I farm and machine for a living, with this machine I am thinking I could build some machinery for myself and what ever else i dream up. Thank you for the help, feeling way more confident about the purchase.

slammedxonair
02-16-2010, 12:57 AM
I got the downdraft table and it is a nice setup and seen it work at dynatorch but when I ordered it I didnt realize how big of an exhaust fan it needed to work, and I still havent been able to get mine hooked up.

asuratman
02-16-2010, 05:01 AM
Hello Jim,
Which one best to go to cut <1/2" using powermax 45 or powermax 1000/1650 . I will use OA for >1/2". I read in here that Powermax 45 have better tech. Now I am building plasma 4X8

magma-joe
02-16-2010, 11:11 AM
rghmachine,

After having my Dynatorch since 2005, like everyone else I went through a learning curve. I started thinking about a list and knowing what I know now if I had to do it over again this is what I would purchase right up front.

1. We-cim / Cutting shop software upgrade.

Once you get your table you will soon realize that getting your ideas to appear as a (quality) finished product on the table requires some good CAD CAM software. The We-cim software package will optimize your drawings, allow you to import scanned drawings and many other types of files. You can manipulate the drawings, convert them to other types as well as customize your lead in's lead outs and and many other features that are normally only found on high end industrial software. Plus like Dynatorch the We-cim tech support is excellent!

2. Laser locator.

The laser saves material by allowing me to locate X Y Zero on the part and dry run the program to to make sure it fits. It allows aligning parts with the X or Y axis for straight cuts. And it also makes aligning the torch with the edge of a piece of thick material for easier piercing.

3. Collision detector.

This is cheap insurance considering the potential damage that could occur from a collision during a rapid traverse move. Don't risk it.

4. Water table or dust collector?

As having personally witnessed, the Dynatorch dust collector is very effective however I chose the water table for my use. Things to consider with the dust collector are initial cost, electrical requirments, and added space needed. If I were doing daily production cutting I would take a hard look at it.

The water table costs much less, requires no additional space and will take about 80% to 90% of smoke and dust out of the air depending on the water level under the material. The higher the water level the more water splash on the torch. I keep mine about 3 to 4 " below. A secondary use is the cooling effect from water splashing on the bottom of the material. Water table cleaning can be a pain but I would imagine cleaning a dust collector would be to.

5. Dynascribe?

This can really extend your plasma tables capabilities however it can be purchased as an upgrade kit anytime. I just recently purchased one. I intend to use it to mark my products with my logo / phone number as well as marking bend lines and drill holes or punch marks for ironworker punching of holes. It can also be used for marking the material with a sharpie pen.

6. DASH unit?

The DASH can extend the range of thin materials that you can effectively cut with your plasma. It also could be purchased as an upgrade kit anytime. I recently purchased one for a special job that I do that works best with the no touch DASH unit.

7. Joy Stick control.

I would consider this a mandatory item. It gives you control of the machine from anywhere around the table. I use it everytime I use the laser locator since I can stand right over the torch and line it up. It also alows you watch the machine up close while cutting and stop it should you see a problem arise.

8. Hypertherm fine cut kit.

I use the fine cut consumables every day on a variety of materials and they make some nice cuts. Although they don't last as long I have even used them on 1/4" steel with excellent results.

9. Table size.

Get the biggest table you can. The difference in price is very small considering what your capabilities will be. A 5 x 10 table will be close to 12' x 6.5 as the X & Y axis have to travel a bit further to allow loading of a full size 5 x 10 sheet. If you add another tool station the added Y axis travel will be even more important. And once you get it you are locked in forever. Another factor to consider is resale value. A larger table can bring more money.

10. Tube cutter.

The tube cutter could be a very desirable item if you have a need for it. It further extends the capabilities of your table. It also could be purchased later as a kit to upgrade your machine.



Hope this helps, please post some pics as you set set up the machine.

Magma-joe

jimcolt
02-16-2010, 11:32 AM
Cut quality is very similar between these systems on materials below 1/2"....the 1000 and the 1250 have more power (60 Amps and 80 Amps)....so they have more capacity and faster speeds on most materials 3/8" and thicker. The advantages that I have found with the Powermax45 is that the consumable life seems better that the 1000 that I used to have on my CNC machine.......and there is only need for one set of consumables with the 45 for thin gauge through 1/2"......with the 1000 I would use FineCut consumables up to 3/16", then 40 Amp consumables through 3/8", and 60 Amp above that thickness. I still put the 1000 back on the machine when I have big jobs on 1/2" and thicker...as the additional power seems to do a lot better on thicker materials.

The Powermax45 does have newer technology in the torch called "Conical Flow" technology....better arc constriction and longer life. Consumable life in the other Powermax units is still very good....compared to other plasma systems in the industry!

Jim


Hello Jim,
Which one best to go to cut <1/2" using powermax 45 or powermax 1000/1650 . I will use OA for >1/2". I read in here that Powermax 45 have better tech. Now I am building plasma 4X8

Mike Ray
02-18-2010, 10:10 AM
rghmachine

The dust collector has a lot going on down inside. While it is buildable it has a lot of baffles you don't see right off and chambers to direct air flow on the sides. I went to DT and spent a few days with the folks in the shop (Great crew BTW)

Check out my build. I put my own exhaust system together based on reading on the zone and it seems to do a great job pulling out everything (including heat :D ) when it is on.

I just screwed and tack welded a skirt made of 22 gauge and Angle to the table that I bought with my system.

I just HAVE to get to dual drive though...... dreamin at the moment.

WSS
02-19-2010, 01:49 AM
A few thoughts on the water table. Today I cut some 3/16" plate. It cuts fast. I set the speeds/volts just like the HyperTherm charts said too. My nest web was close as I was using 40-amp parts. So... The combination of fast and close caused some of the cuts that were close together to react different. All the parts were the same but some had wider kerfs on the side that was "too close" to the last cut. A water table would have eliminated that problem. I have yet to tackle the water table insert for our table. I find it to be more and more important as I learn to cut.

WSS

rghmachine
02-19-2010, 09:24 AM
The more reading I have been doing I am leaning towards a waterbed and building a room over the top or it. Im thinking I could at least vent the room and still have storage above the table. What is the best way to builld a water table is the next question? Some are built right into the gantry table some are seperate, Some are aluminum some are steel and how deep to make them? Thanks for all the comments, I odered my 5x10 table with collision, laser locator and software package. Im counting down the days to when I get this thing up and running. Thanks again

magma-joe
02-27-2010, 10:43 AM
rghmachine,

I am sure you will like your Dynatorch. Since I upgraded my Dynatorch I like it even more. :) Some things for the water table you might consider;

When I built my water table I failed to make provisions to quickly change the water level for different cutting conditions. Although I have lived with out it, it would be a nice feature to have. It also makes cleaning the table much easier.

A water table that is separate from the gantry frame has an added benefit.
Imagine dropping a 1000lb sheet of material on a unitized water table design. This could distort, flex, or knock the alignment off of the gantry rail system causing inaccurate cuts.

A separate water table bears all the weight. It also would allow you to build a lighter frame for the gantry to ride on. Here is a link to steel plate weights if you want to plug some numbers. http://www.portlandbolt.com/steel-plate-weight.html

Just the opposite, a unitized water table design requires a much heavier table design to handle the weight of the water, material to be cut, and keep the gantry frame stable. A full 300 gallon tank would add a little over 2500lbs to the table weight. Here is a link to plug some numbers for water table capacities and weights. http://www.onlineconversion.com/waterweight.htm

Plasma quench or some type of additive to prevent rusting is mandatory. Other things to consider are slat thickness, stability, and pointed or not? When I first built my table I laid the slats straight. I encountered 2 problems right away. When I placed the material on the slats it was not stable as the slats could "wiggle" around. Also when I made straight cuts that were parallel with the slats many times I would be cutting directly over the top of a slat, resulting in a terible cut. Any time the cut travels across any slat it results in added dross on the bottom of the material. I modifyed the slats into a bow shape and cut "points" in every other slat which took care of both these issues.

Have fun and post some pics of your build!


Magma-joe