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nego_0
02-05-2010, 09:13 PM
To set the tone. I became interested in CNC a year ago when i started flying rc planes. Since then i managed to get a laser cutter at work and that was not enough. I need soothing at home lol. I was unable to find 17k so i went this route. I convinced my wife that it would only take 800$ to build this machine. (nuts) so far im in 1200$ haha. I purchased a cut kit from joe himself and im purchasing the hobbycnc pro BOB and 3 steppers at 300oz. Soon as the kit arrives ill post pics and progress. I hope to have many comments to keep me from spending to much more. I would like to stay married :).. To be honest im not sure i can pull this off. I have no choice now haha.

nego_0
02-06-2010, 04:06 PM
While im waiting on my parts to arrive, what do people use for there end mills. Im trying to cut foam (aka depron and blucore) and light ply and balsa. I have not order any cutting head yet and think its time to pick a couple to get started.

nego_0
02-08-2010, 09:16 PM
I never asked how long shipping takes. I fugure 3 weeks from other post. I feel like its christmass night.

Jason Marsha
02-09-2010, 07:13 AM
Well at least if you get divorced you will still have the machine:D

As for end mills I normally cut MDF, plywood, cutting board plastic and foam core (sign material) with upcut bits from Whiteside tools.

Jason

nego_0
02-09-2010, 10:54 AM
Well at least if you get divorced you will still have the machine:D

As for end mills I normally cut MDF, plywood, cutting board plastic and foam core (sign material) with upcut bits from Whiteside tools.

Jason

Sounds good ill order 1 or 2 and give them a shot. I think this might work http://www.woodworkerswholesale.com/1_4_2_Flute_Upcut_Left_Hand_p/vx01230l.htm, what do you think?

EBC
02-09-2010, 12:28 PM
www.discount-tools.com has low cost endmills that work very well

Gene Crain
www.plantasymaderas.com

Jason Marsha
02-09-2010, 04:30 PM
Sounds good ill order 1 or 2 and give them a shot. I think this might work http://www.woodworkerswholesale.com/1_4_2_Flute_Upcut_Left_Hand_p/vx01230l.htm, what do you think?

Those vortex bits are a little pricey but give them a shot and see how they work.


Jason

PhillyCyberJoe
02-11-2010, 12:52 PM
MLCS woodworking has solid carbide spiral upcut bits for a lot less. I've used them quite a bit and they work well.

If you are "trying" stuff, why don't you spend 1/2 as much and buy twice as many :)

Here's the link http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid.html#spiral_up_anchor



Joe

nego_0
02-15-2010, 02:40 PM
Thank you for all replies. Still waiting on shippment, this is the longest wait ever but i know it will be worth it. Joe if you reading this, send me an update on how its going.

AlbertaClipper
02-15-2010, 06:20 PM
Well at least if you get divorced you will still have the machine:D

Jason

1/2 of a machine;)

nego_0
02-15-2010, 06:21 PM
1/2 of a machine;)

HAHA thats no joke. Could be worse i would get the table she would take the Leadscrews and steppers haha.

nego_0
02-17-2010, 06:33 PM
Well thank you joe!! He has shipped my machine today!! I cant wait to start this build. Im sure there will be a ton of questions on this build, but here i go in the unkown.:cheers:

nego_0
02-22-2010, 07:23 PM
:devious: My MDF came in and know its time to start the build,,, errrr aaah this weekend so I don't make the little misses mad. The parts look great and opening the box was crazy fun. I was attacked by white peanuts. Since the are electro magnetically charged they jump at you like ninjas. You should have seen me pull each piece out so delicately and wisp away the foam particles with a hand broom. haha I barely made a mess till I had to get in the bottom to get the box full of small MDF and HDPE I had to lay the large box on its side to try and pry the smaller box out, and it was world war 3 with peanuts(I lost). Thanks Joe for the awesome machine.

joecnc2006
02-23-2010, 06:56 PM
I always get a kick out of hearing about the Popcorn Ninjas. :)

nego_0
02-23-2010, 09:58 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Axis-CNC-Gecko-G540-380-oz-in-Stepper-Motor-Kit-_W0QQitemZ270528703538QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20100209?IMSfp=TL100209174013r22308 is the cheapest ive seen for the geko setup. is there a cheaper place to get the g540 kit? or am i best off by going hobbycnc like i had budgeted for. if i can get the kit in the 450 range shipped or even 500 its doable. LOL there went the budget.

joecnc2006
02-24-2010, 08:23 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Axis-CNC-Gecko-G540-380-oz-in-Stepper-Motor-Kit-_W0QQitemZ270528703538QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20100209?IMSfp=TL100209174013r22308 is the cheapest ive seen for the geko setup. is there a cheaper place to get the g540 kit? or am i best off by going hobbycnc like i had budgeted for. if i can get the kit in the 450 range shipped or even 500 its doable. LOL there went the budget.

CNCRouterparts has a nice setup, and his motors have the resister build into the plug already.

nego_0
02-25-2010, 07:14 PM
looks realy good!! think that is the route to go.

nego_0
02-28-2010, 05:53 PM
I've been out for a week know after having chipped tooth. I had to have a crown lengthening done. I'm going to start the build this week and was scared of something lol.. Did everyone else use the pipes to help square up the torsion box while gluing? or did you just put your pieces together and square the ends.

nego_0
02-28-2010, 06:42 PM
I just went looking for pipes....What did you all use.. I mesured the opening in sketchup and came out with 1.340" what pipe has that? i was asuming 1" gas pipe the black stuff but i see in the photos your pipe rails look so shiny, what gives.

nego_0
03-01-2010, 06:26 PM
Anybody have the part number from lowes or home depot. I got some today and its just not big enouph its shy buy a millimeter or more to loose for a good fit.

nego_0
03-01-2010, 06:32 PM
I take that back it fits perfect and tight in the ends of the torsion box but on the sides its off by a 1.5mm is that ok. eehhh ill give it go with these pipes they seem close. I could always use a thin piece of painter tae on the one side to snug them up on the rail ribs. They are firm in the torsion ends though. I take it everyone uses none threaded ends in the torsion ends for a better mate:

After learning how to use the search function it is normal from what i gather. It was the closest Joe could mill. Seems ok then.. Did any one do anything sly to fit them better. Just wondering.

nego_0
03-03-2010, 09:00 PM
CNCRouterparts has a nice setup, and his motors have the resister build into the plug already.

Joe i did buy from that cncrouterparts. I purchased the 3 axis kit. Cant wait to test them. My wife wont let my try the table till i get a kill switch installed.. LOL any ideas.

joecnc2006
03-03-2010, 10:02 PM
Joe i did buy from that cncrouterparts. I purchased the 3 axis kit. Cant wait to test them. My wife wont let my try the table till i get a kill switch installed.. LOL any ideas.

http://www.homanndesigns.com/EN010_V8.pdf

nego_0
03-04-2010, 03:31 PM
Thanks joe.:rainfro:

I finaly purchased the black pipe today, it took them sevral tries to get a 60" cut. 1 is actualy 1/4" long but i think i can grind it.

nego_0
03-07-2010, 09:25 AM
The Geko kit came in a today. Sadly i canot test it. I had a freak failure on my mother board so its is in RMA status... Should be 2 week then i can have some real fun. The kit came so fast i wasnt even ready for it. cncrouterparts is awsome and fast. Thanks for the tip joe.

nego_0
03-21-2010, 07:15 PM
My computer went up in flames.. Its was built 4 months ago, and it seems intel built some processors with bad memmory controllers so im waiting on an rma. That being said, i do have all the parts minus the bolts and nuts. i should be gluing the torsion box up this week so. i hope all goes well. Im scared to death it wont be square and i will ruin it. Oh well i guess it will be an adventure.

joecnc2006
03-21-2010, 08:42 PM
My computer went up in flames.. Its was built 4 months ago, and it seems intel built some processors with bad memmory controllers so im waiting on an rma. That being said, i do have all the parts minus the bolts and nuts. i should be gluing the torsion box up this week so. i hope all goes well. Im scared to death it wont be square and i will ruin it. Oh well i guess it will be an adventure.

Use the pipes to keep it aligned when gluing.

nego_0
03-28-2010, 01:37 PM
Use the pipes to keep it aligned when gluing.

Well i have the main box glued... I had a little trouble with the fit being so exact that the glue would not stay in the seems. lol it would shave the glue off and some of my joints have no glue!.. i will get a thinner glue on the next parts. JOE you are the man thats all i have to say.. I need to primer the box now and i will start glueing the rest of the parts. Pics soon to come. :)

nego_0
04-05-2010, 09:08 PM
:)Finished the torsion box. Sadly it was not perfect but really really close. It is about a 1/2 16th off on one end. I fit the 1/4" hard board a little to tight. I'm not sure if it will be a problem or not. As for the rest it is coming together nicely. It took a while to figure out the process but i got it. I should be done gluing everything by friday. Now i have to go and get the hardware and test the electronics i purchased. I'm really happy with this project. If by some chance i really screwed up the torsion box badly i will have to order a new box or find someone to cut it out for me again.

archer3d
04-08-2010, 10:46 AM
Joe i did buy from that cncrouterparts. I purchased the 3 axis kit. Cant wait to test them. My wife wont let my try the table till i get a kill switch installed.. LOL any ideas.

you might want to be concerned if your wife suggests a kill switch made by Remington or Smith & Wesson.:eek:

sounds good so far need some pics

joecnc2006
04-08-2010, 10:52 AM
:)Finished the torsion box. Sadly it was not perfect but really really close. It is about a 1/2 16th off on one end. I fit the 1/4" hard board a little to tight. I'm not sure if it will be a problem or not. As for the rest it is coming together nicely. It took a while to figure out the process but i got it. I should be done gluing everything by friday. Now i have to go and get the hardware and test the electronics i purchased. I'm really happy with this project. If by some chance i really screwed up the torsion box badly i will have to order a new box or find someone to cut it out for me again.

I'm sure the torsion box will be fine, the rails are what are parallel to one another for the gantry to slide on and once the spoil board is on top of the Torsion box it will be surfaced to be true to the cutting plane of the machine.

nego_0
05-04-2010, 07:47 AM
Wow been a while. I finished gluing everything except the router holder... I purchased all my nuts and bolts, $92 in just hardware. So far all looks good. I started cutting my sliders yesterday. now I have to buy a few more things and bolt it together. about 85% finished. Im so far over budget its not even funny :) My wife has been cool about it though. I have till december 1 to finish or she will kill me she says.

nego_0
05-05-2010, 12:04 PM
Im about to buy my final parts. Lead screws (threaded rods) wich ones to get? I went to dumpster cnc and saw they had antibacklash kits and had sugessted rods to purcahse. What do you all think, is it worth it or should i go cheap to see if my build even works.?

Fatboy
05-05-2010, 05:42 PM
Im about to buy my final parts. Lead screws (threaded rods) wich ones to get? I went to dumpster cnc and saw they had antibacklash kits and had sugessted rods to purcahse. What do you all think, is it worth it or should i go cheap to see if my build even works.?

Buy the best that you can afford, it will be a lot cheaper than buying replacements for the original cheapys. With the cheap screw you will always wonder how much better would this machine be if I had better screws.

Your build will work just fine like everyone else's. It's a good design that will tolerate a fair amount of mistakes and poor workmanship. You should have no doubt that it will work. Get the Dumpsters and suggested screws.

I built mine from scratch, with just the drawings that Joe posted. I cut all the parts on my personally designed 18" x 33" router that used drawer slides and 1/2"-13 all thread. Had to do a lot of figuring and indexing. It took me the entire month of November to build.

Also, I made my Joe's from all MDF, no plastic, which required that I redesign things like the motor mounts and z axis nut mount. I used 1/2"-10 single starts but didn't like them and spent another $180 on 5 starts and Dumpster AB nuts...well worth the expense.

I speak from experience,
Fatboy

nego_0
05-09-2010, 06:52 PM
Im closing in. Ive almost got evrthing done.. Except i need to get two dc relays acording to the wiring digram for the g540. As usal i have no idea where or what to purchases.

nego_0
05-09-2010, 06:54 PM
Buy the best that you can afford, it will be a lot cheaper than buying replacements for the original cheapys. With the cheap screw you will always wonder how much better would this machine be if I had better screws.

Your build will work just fine like everyone else's. It's a good design that will tolerate a fair amount of mistakes and poor workmanship. You should have no doubt that it will work. Get the Dumpsters and suggested screws.

I built mine from scratch, with just the drawings that Joe posted. I cut all the parts on my personally designed 18" x 33" router that used drawer slides and 1/2"-13 all thread. Had to do a lot of figuring and indexing. It took me the entire month of November to build.

Also, I made my Joe's from all MDF, no plastic, which required that I redesign things like the motor mounts and z axis nut mount. I used 1/2"-10 single starts but didn't like them and spent another $180 on 5 starts and Dumpster AB nuts...well worth the expense.

I speak from experience,
Fatboy

I will have to make this an upgrade. Im running so low on funds. Just so evryone knows this build had a budget of 850$ i dont even whant to think what ive put in this far HA.

nego_0
05-11-2010, 08:50 PM
Ok so i finaly took a few photos. Sorry for the rude room. Im in a tear evrthing apart and put it together mode haha. trying to see if things work.

Ok things dont look to bad do they. But i hope they are square enouph to cut decent. The g540 kit seems ok lol i tried it tonight and could not for the life of me figure why the fault light stayed on.. Then it hit me, my cable is a null cable. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR ok got to go get one tomarrow to test my kit. back to the beer!!!! :cheers:

Fatboy
05-12-2010, 08:10 PM
Lookin good...Brings back memories!

Fatboy

nego_0
05-13-2010, 11:44 AM
More stuff came in!!!

2x acme lead screws
10x acme lead nuts
couplers
drill rod
10 of the 1/2" bearings

all I’m waiting on is the 36 small bearings, db25 cable, e stop, and limit switches. that’s it I’m almost there.. LOL except now I have to make it work.

Fatboy
05-13-2010, 01:06 PM
More stuff came in!!!

2x acme lead screws
10x acme lead nuts
couplers
drill rod
10 of the 1/2" bearings

all I’m waiting on is the 36 small bearings, db25 cable, e stop, and limit switches. that’s it I’m almost there.. LOL except now I have to make it work.

Check to make sure that the lead screws are straight.

Fatboy

nego_0
05-13-2010, 06:35 PM
I took a look at them they seem to both have a small amount of whoop to them on one end. I hope its not to much of a problem. I tried to put a bearing over them and the fit was realy realy tight to the point i didnt think i was gona get the bearing off. On a great note though i tested my electronics today for the first time and i came to life on my desk. Most of my panicky feelings went away. I think this thing may work.:devious:

Fatboy
05-13-2010, 07:50 PM
Handle them with care and try to used the ends opposite the whoop. Any whoop will manifest itself as a shaking tool bit which will show in the cut.
Dress the ends with sandpaper where the bearings will be to make it easier to get them on and off.

BTW, I don't have an E-stop on mine, however, I sit at the end by the computer and there's a limit switch (X axis) right there that I have manually tripped a few times.

Fatboy

nego_0
05-13-2010, 08:10 PM
Sounds good. Ok i have a strange one for ya Fatboy. is there a way to make a template to use over and over for the bearing slider holes so that i dont screw them up. Im a little scared ill be off to much and the bearings wont sit nice on the pipe. I hand cut (hack saw) each one of the angle alluminum tonight and it was not fun but not bad. they just did not come out perfect if you now what i meen. Im off by a hair or two on a all of them. and what kind of screw is at the tip of each of the angles is it a botl or a wood screw?



EDIT

I think this may work what do you guys think. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50892&highlight=bearing+slide

Fatboy
05-13-2010, 09:03 PM
For my first router I used a method like the link you posted which works well.

On the Joe's, however, I used steel angle that I had on hand from another project and set up the drill press to do all the holes.

As a side note you can drill slightly oversize to correct any irregularities...(the things that you learn from a first machine).

The screws in mine are 1/4-20.

Fatboy

nego_0
05-18-2010, 09:16 PM
Ok all i need left i think is a place to purchase limit swithes. I went to cncrouterparts but they are out. need a good place that will not charge me 20 in shipping. any ideas!

brtech
05-21-2010, 05:37 PM
If you want cheap:
http://www.futurlec.com/SwMicro.shtml

But they ship from the far east, so it takes a while. Very good supplier for electronic parts.

The easy choice is Digikey:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SW156-ND

And another decent choice (although minimum shipping is pretty big)
http://www.mpja.com/products.asp?dept=64

Fatboy
05-21-2010, 05:54 PM
Radio Shack, close by and cheap.

Fatboy

nego_0
05-21-2010, 06:40 PM
If you want cheap:
http://www.futurlec.com/SwMicro.shtml

But they ship from the far east, so it takes a while. Very good supplier for electronic parts.

The easy choice is Digikey:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SW156-ND

And another decent choice (although minimum shipping is pretty big)
http://www.mpja.com/products.asp?dept=64

I love the digi key switch. Butt i will check out radio shack tomarow for ease of purchase. I think digikey will win though if i cant just pick them up off the shelf.

Also i searched the fourms for the trick of useing a drill and a green scruby to clean and sorta polish the pipes. any one know were to locate that. Im not gona polish them but i would like to strip them and clean them up.

nego_0
05-27-2010, 08:00 AM
I finished my final gluing yesterday. All parts are in. After all the man hours, all the uncertainty, and sleepless nights and weekends. I think I’m ready to do final assembly. I’m so nervous about how it’s going to turn out. I know it will work, but I hope it works well and is not so badly built that I can’t use it for the intended purpose of building RC planes. THANK YOU JOE!!! One hell of a machine.


:wee:

Fatboy
05-27-2010, 10:21 AM
You shouldn't have any trouble getting this to a successfull completion...Unless you're a total dufus with 4 thumbs!

After final assembly, tuning, and testing I think that you will see that you have built a very capable, reliable machine that will serve you for many years to come.

Then you will still have trouble sleeping, not from worry but the urge to go out and cut parts.

Fatboy

nego_0
05-27-2010, 12:30 PM
You shouldn't have any trouble getting this to a successfull completion...Unless you're a total dufus with 4 thumbs!

After final assembly, tuning, and testing I think that you will see that you have built a very capable, reliable machine that will serve you for many years to come.

Then you will still have trouble sleeping, not from worry but the urge to go out and cut parts.

Fatboy


Cheers on that brother :cheers:

nego_0
05-28-2010, 12:27 PM
Cutting the hardend drill rod with a hack saw blows!!!! Im only half way throufgh one cut and i have 3 total to make. (nuts)

Fatboy
05-28-2010, 02:57 PM
Got a Harbor Freight near by? This is what I use:

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-angle-grinder-91222.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10-4-inch-cut-off-wheels-for-metal-45432.html

Takes all of 20 seconds. Less time than it took to write this post to cut all three.
Great for other grinding too!!

Faboy

nego_0
05-28-2010, 07:04 PM
I went to harbor freight, and picked a few things up. I picked up a wire wheel brass and tried to clean a pipe with it. It worked to well, it was taking metal as well as the black paint. Is there a softer wire wheel to use or is there a diffrent material. As for the angle grinder ill picke it up tuesday on my birthday.

nego_0
05-29-2010, 08:25 PM
1.5 pipes left to strip of the paint and oil lacker. Wow my arm is so tired you should see me scrubbing by hand all day.:violin: . I found that the 3m nylon abrasive works awsome.

Fatboy
05-29-2010, 08:56 PM
1.5 pipes left to strip of the paint and oil lacker. Wow my arm is so tired you should see me scrubbing by hand all day.:violin: . I found that the 3m nylon abrasive works awsome.

Soon you'll be like POPEYE!!!

Fatboy

nego_0
06-06-2010, 11:50 AM
I wish the HDPE had been pre drilled :( but i drilled it the best i could with a press.. funny the press had some play in it so not evry hole is dead center... that being said i dont know where to drill on the stepper mounts. do you drill top and bottom, do you drill all the way through or is there a diffrent drill pioint? can some one uplad a photo or two.

Fatboy
06-06-2010, 12:53 PM
Since I didn't use any plastic I had to redesign the motor mounts and used machine screws w/washers and nuts.

I do think that the instructions specify the drilling of the mount holes. IIRC the holes on the bearing block side are drilled and tapped 1/4"-20. The motor side are drilled and tapped for #12(?) machine screws.

To drill mine I step up a fence w/stop to locate the holes in the correct position. All of the holes on each end line up. I did not tap the holes.

Sorry that I don't have a picture to explain this and it's too hot in the shop now to use the computer out there. However, I can send you the details of the design that I did which should work if your plastic is going to be a problem. All my mounts are 1/2" MDF or plywood.

Good Luck,
Fatboy

Fatboy
06-06-2010, 02:50 PM
Ok, here's a dxf of my mounts and a picture of a couple. I cut these on my old router but I don't see a reason not to cut them by hand.
Added a picture of the x axis motor and mount.

Fatboy

nego_0
06-09-2010, 06:58 PM
Thank you looks great. I should have litte if any problem with this.. im drilled almost evrthing except the sliders.... im going crazy trying to get a template or a way to get the same line evry time... i wish there was a pen that was 7mm that would fit in the bering so i could easily make the line.

nego_0
06-14-2010, 08:30 PM
Best way i found to make the rail sliders.

1-Make a template, i used a laser cuter and a a plastic sheet and used 2mm holes for the punch.

2-set up a jig to get the same strike evrytime

3-punch the holes

4- drill them small first, then bigger (i have a crappy drill press that wobbels so i have to do it this way to get it to drill the same evry time.)

5- repeat

6- tap and repeat

7- install hardware.


Also attached is my completed slider. it does not touch perfect do to the wrong bolt that i am using (the bolt is not fully threaded). if i removed the lockwasher and put it under the bottome of the slider i think i will have perfect contact. even with the contact i have now its butter smooth.

nego_0
06-14-2010, 08:40 PM
WOW i took the lock washer off the top of the slider and placed it underneath and wala it have center contact on all 4 bearings now. Sweet !!! :cool:

joecnc2006
06-14-2010, 08:41 PM
Funny you mention making the templates, I just took a picture of mine i had in a drawer, these were made 5 yrs ago.

BTW: Great work on the machine so far.

nego_0
06-14-2010, 09:02 PM
LOL i could have used that pic 2 months ago when i hit this road block. :cheers: Joe i am very very close to bolting it toghether.. I pick up my hitachi router tomarrow.

joecnc2006
06-14-2010, 09:11 PM
LOL i could have used that pic 2 months ago when i hit this road block. :cheers: Joe i am very very close to bolting it toghether.. I pick up my hitachi router tomarrow.

where are you getting the router from and how much?

nego_0
06-14-2010, 09:16 PM
150$/165 ish from sears! http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM209366223P?keyword=hitachi+router&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

nego_0
06-15-2010, 06:56 PM
Ok i did not get the hitachi router :( Come to find out they dont stock it and its online only and is shipped from another competitor. So i purchased the 2 1/4 hp Craftsman http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00928190000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8 it was cheaper.. Did i mess up on this should i have waited i can return it. Was this a kick in the (nuts), Or was it an ok choice.

joecnc2006
06-15-2010, 07:13 PM
Ok i did not get the hitachi router :( Come to find out they dont stock it and its online only and is shipped from another competitor. So i purchased the 2 1/4 hp Craftsman http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00928190000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8 it was cheaper.. Did i mess up on this should i have waited i can return it. Was this a kick in the (nuts), Or was it an ok choice.

There are a couple of guys who use this router on their 4x4 hybrid machine and are happy with it.

nego_0
06-15-2010, 07:51 PM
It had evrything i wanted thats why i did not wait to internet purchase. Soft Start, Var speed, electronic motor feedback, LED lighting (i like this a lot now i dont have to wire one up, 2 1/4 hp seems realy good.

nego_0
06-16-2010, 06:55 PM
You know i have learned so much building this machine.... I purchased the wrong bolts !!!!! they are all not completely threaded. So know its back to the store for fully threaded bolts.. Just wondering did any one else do this?
(nuts)

Fatboy
06-16-2010, 09:28 PM
That Sears router looks like it will do the trick, I'm using a Milwaukee 2.25hp with most of the same features.

As far as the full threaded bolts...I did the same thing. In some cases I used all thread w/nuts on each end.

Fatboy

Fatboy
07-03-2010, 02:06 PM
It's been 20 days since the last post...

Fatboy

nego_0
07-03-2010, 03:16 PM
WORK!!!! its killing the project. The air force comes first though. I did some work last night cutting the 5 holes for underneath part on the gantry, Funny story. I cut the 4 outer holes with a dermal zip bit. (looks like crap, haha) then i went and purchased a router bit for my router and cut the center one. I was so excited that i cut it on the opposite side of the the 4 holes. I dont think it will cause a problem. Other than that i found that my new router is slighty to large for my HDPE router holder. So ill have to barrow someone elses router then cut a new holder. I have to say evry time i touch it i lern somthing new.

Fatboy
07-03-2010, 03:46 PM
Thank you for your service to this country!!!

I made a few mistakes (depending on your definition of FEW) and have a little pile of screwed up parts. Actually I use those parts to show people the details of my machine. It's all a part of the learning process.

I wish that it would cool off some here so that I can spend more time playing with and fine tuning the rotary indexer that I recently built. The madness just never stops with these machines. Reading forums like CNCZone doesn't help as I keep finding new things to build and try.

Have a happy and safe 4th.

Fatboy

Fatboy
07-03-2010, 03:52 PM
SNIP.... my new router is slighty to large for my HDPE router holder. So ill have to barrow someone elses router then cut a new holder. I have to say evry time i touch it i lern somthing new.

Could you use a drum sander bit in the dremel to open up the mount or would that make it too thin?

Also, what part of the country are you located?

Fatboy

nego_0
07-03-2010, 04:52 PM
Dremel might work. didnt think of that.. i was gona use my laser cutter but hdpe does not cut withouth the crazy melt. I live in hampton va... on langley afb. were are you located.

Fatboy
07-03-2010, 09:39 PM
I was stationed at CG Restracen Yorktown for a couple of years in the early 70's. Two years ago my brother retired from the Navy in Norfolk and I took a side trip to YT. I thought that I knew how to get there but everything had changed and I spent a while just following the gps.

I live just outside of Charleston, SC. A lot of C17's and C5's @ 1,600' over the house on a left base for rwy 15... Also quite a few BLCF's and 747's to WA and AN124's to Europe. Love them growling birds but never been near one.

Anyway, Good luck with resizing your mounts. I didn't use those type and took the mount off my old machine, modified it for the Joe's. It basically is two aluminum straps that are formed around the router housing top and bottom. The mount also has over center latches to attach the dust collector brush.
BTW, If you haven't thought of a dust collector you will after a few days of cutting MDF. I built a cyclone type using a 15 gal trash can and a Toro electric leaf blower...It really sucks!!!

Fatboy

nego_0
07-10-2010, 10:06 AM
I went to put the ubolts on in the instructions and wow thats way to big. It is stressing the outer walls of the HDPE im afraid iw will break it. What size works best. i was thinking 2 inch gap is to big, a 1 3/4 would be better. What did you guys find that fit better.

nego_0
07-10-2010, 10:13 AM
AHHH i found that my 2" ubolt from the Home depot is not 2". My god its almost 2.5+" acroos form the inside of the ubolt. I will have to go shopping around to find a good U bolt.

Fatboy
07-10-2010, 12:20 PM
Just put a rule on mine and they are 2.5" center to center. You may need to bend yours to fit...I did. Actually I think that this info is in this thread somewhere.

I would look but I'm in the middle of cutting a "NO SMOKING" sign out of foam. Each letter is 20" tall.

Don't be afraid to tweak things, that's the beauty of building your own. I bet out of the hundreds of these machines built no two are exactly the same.

Fatboy

Fatboy
07-10-2010, 12:23 PM
AHHH i found that my 2" ubolt from the Home depot is not 2". My god its almost 2.5+" acroos form the inside of the ubolt. I will have to go shopping around to find a good U bolt.

A note here: stuff like this gets thrown in the wrong bins and sometimes they are mislabled by the supplier. I carry a little tape measure in my pocket for just these reasons.

Fatboy

nego_0
07-10-2010, 04:00 PM
2.5 center to center ill take a look. i hade to bend mine almost 1 inch inward, way to much. ill post a photo of the bending.

nego_0
07-10-2010, 05:02 PM
went to a diffrent hardware store. I found the correct u bolts. they have the same specs but fit so much better. they have to be stretched out a litle to fit but at least i dont have to crush the hell out of them to make them fit. Now do the ubolts only go through the HDPE or do they go throgh both the hdpe and the MDF?

nego_0
07-11-2010, 04:25 PM
went to a diffrent hardware store. I found the correct u bolts. they have the same specs but fit so much better. they have to be stretched out a litle to fit but at least i dont have to crush the hell out of them to make them fit. Now do the ubolts only go through the HDPE or do they go throgh both the hdpe and the MDF?

Nevermind!!! i do need to find a good pic of the z axis with the antibacklash attached. i cant tell if i need to drill the base were the holes in the antibacklash parts sits above or not. Do the 2 bolts push on the base or do they screw into them.?

g0704chipreaper
07-11-2010, 05:25 PM
How it works at my house. If I spend money or get something that SHMBO doesn’t like. I know that she will only be mad for a week or at the super most a month. But at the end of the day I have my tool. Joe Soucherays 48 hour rule applys at our house. If you put the “thing” in question where it is suposto be, and stays there for 48 hours and after the 48th hour and she asks you how long you have had that you can say “I’d had it for ever”

Example. That snap-on 1/8 driver set belongs in the tool box. Sever weeks latter she asked how long I had that, I said “legally” “o that, I’v had that for ever” and kept working like it was not a special treat I didn’t really need

nego_0
07-20-2010, 08:02 PM
The Z axis carriage at the bottom where you mount the angle aluminum seems way to low. I followed the instructions, went to mount my bearing slider and i find its to low. the pipe only touches the MDF on the sides of the carriage. Did i miss something am i to use a different material than the rest of the sliders. If someone would post a pic of the inside of their carriage Z axis it would greatly help. I don't know what i can do besides grind away the MDF so the pipes don't rub? Any ideas? Im so close to the final bolt up im going nutz!


FU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,,, i know whats wrong i built the carriage incorrect, would some one be willing to cut me 6 peices lol. or am i screwed. the thicker part of the center carriage hole is on the bottom not the top will this cause a problem if i grind it out. i had no idea i could screw this up this bad. What do i do now? even if i fix this i lose 1.5 inches or so of hight on any given material i cut.


Will this work. the part with X'S will be cut out. Damn it i cant belive this.. Joe if your reading PM me with a price for new parts please.

joecnc2006
07-20-2010, 08:55 PM
you do have the carriage up side down, you will need new parts just cutting it will not allow the leadscrew to be centered like it should to the Y-Axis. send me an email I will see if i have some extra or can cut you some.

If you have the assembly pdf look at page 8 this shows how it should be oriented. If not here is the pdf which is part of the files download.

nego_0
07-20-2010, 08:58 PM
Joe is you email still the Yahoo.com one?

joecnc2006
07-20-2010, 09:05 PM
Joe is you email still the Yahoo.com one?

yes in signature.

nego_0
07-20-2010, 09:08 PM
yes in signature.

HAHA, i missed that just like i your instructions. Sorry im thinking so fast that i cant even get one thought straight. Im gona step back and calm down, wow buddy thanks for you help and the quick replies. i will finish this even if it kills me.

Fatboy
07-20-2010, 09:27 PM
Edit: Joe beat to it!!

I see what you are talking about...Bummer!!!

Were it not for leaving at "O-dark thirty" in the morning for NC, I'd be willing to cut your pieces. Won't be back for a few days. Wish that I'd have known earlier as I'm going to be about 3 hours from you.

Before grinding or filing the pieces to clear, check the alignment of the Y axis leadscrew holes as these will be off and more of a challenge to correct.

Can you redrill the top and bottom plates to turn the carriage over? There are 4 holes in the top and 2 in the bottom (not counting the 2 3/4" and leadscrew holes). I used 5/16" t-nuts in the top plate and 1/4-20 bolts to hold the bottom slide as my plates are 3/4" MDF.

(Don't tell anyone but I made a mistake on my carriage too but it was to the top and bottom plates, all the holes are offset to the left by 1/4". They are aligned and I can see the offset from where I stand at the computer. Visitors have yet to notice. That's what happens when you try to squeeze the most out of material.)

Fatboy

nego_0
07-20-2010, 09:45 PM
Edit: Joe beat to it!!

I see what you are talking about...Bummer!!!

Were it not for leaving at "O-dark thirty" in the morning for NC, I'd be willing to cut your pieces. Won't be back for a few days. Wish that I'd have known earlier as I'm going to be about 3 hours from you.

Before grinding or filing the pieces to clear, check the alignment of the Y axis leadscrew holes as these will be off and more of a challenge to correct.

Can you redrill the top and bottom plates to turn the carriage over? There are 4 holes in the top and 2 in the bottom (not counting the 2 3/4" and leadscrew holes). I used 5/16" t-nuts in the top plate and 1/4-20 bolts to hold the bottom slide as my plates are 3/4" MDF.

Talked to joe i kinda screwed this one up good. Gona need new parts...
(Don't tell anyone but I made a mistake on my carriage too but it was to the top and bottom plates, all the holes are offset to the left by 1/4". They are aligned and I can see the offset from where I stand at the computer. Visitors have yet to notice. That's what happens when you try to squeeze the most out of material.)

Fatboy

I talked to joe. I messed up good. Gona need new parts.

nego_0
07-21-2010, 08:06 AM
Well i wont be able to get new parts till september 1st so ill try and see if i can redrill the holes, but i doubt it will work out.

joecnc2006
07-21-2010, 03:53 PM
Well i wont be able to get new parts till september 1st so ill try and see if i can redrill the holes, but i doubt it will work out.

I will be cutting you some parts this weekend.

nego_0
07-22-2010, 09:07 PM
I will be cutting you some parts this weekend.

Joe i sent you an email, good news!

nego_0
07-31-2010, 08:23 PM
Im taking a week of leave in August to finish this machine. Come hell or high water she will be rolling. (provided i get parts, lol, had i watched what i was doing i wold be in much better shape.)

nego_0
08-06-2010, 10:59 AM
Has anyone herd from Joe since 27th of last month? Last I spoke with him it was on the 21st. I may need a member on the forum to cut some parts for me? My initial plan to have it made by Joe or have it milled on base seems to have flopped. I hope everything for Joe is ok (I’m a little concerned he always writes back.) . I was realy hoping to finish this on leave. In the meantime i have laser cut templates to drill new holes and i have figured out i can use T nuts instead of nuts in the new holes. If all goes well i may get her working. i have to grind down my bearing slider since there is no way I can make new pockets inside the frame of the z axis. I figure if my holes are accurate I should be able to flush mount the slider and it may work.

Update. I did all the drilling :) looks like this is going to work!!! ill have photos soon.

nego_0
08-07-2010, 07:33 PM
Seems to work!! minus the fact i have to grind down the slider a bit to give a perfect fit for the pipes to fit the gantry. Im think i may be ok only time will tell! :rainfro:

Some pics of my misadventure! You can se on the last pic the origanal bolts are on the bottom. I endund up using more laser cut templates and T nuts to get the top plate fixed. The bottom plate was simple just drill two holes. I will need to grind the alauminum down a little. I dont have a belt sander so im going to grind it down on a flat table with sand paper.

nego_0
08-11-2010, 01:02 PM
i split the top of the gantry from the pipe not seating correct (nuts) But it was minor. Here are some pics its looking much better!!!

nego_0
08-12-2010, 08:01 PM
Ok i'm working on my first lead screw and its the shortest and already i can tell there is some binding! i think my bearings top and bottom are off a little (the leadscrew bearings). How did everyone else adjust for this?

Yep Verified! my top and bottom are off by a bit! I think it was my crapy drill press not drilling the same evry time. My press has a bad wable and it showes. The drill head would never drill where you put it, it would woble a mm or sow to any give direction. Later in the build i figured out if you would start the press already engaging the material it would drill perfect. Saddly i did my bearing holders first.

The binding is tight but a standard handdrill on setting 3 can move it up and down with no problem. By hand it feels like a tight turn but it goes fine. should i leave it and see what happens or should i correct it now? And how to correct it.

nego_0
08-29-2010, 05:48 PM
I logged on today and found that i am no longer alowed to store messages and do not have the same options as before.? I also am unable to click on a name and send a PM. Was i banned?


EDIT:
Fixed admin fixed my problem.:)

And while i was off the forums i managed to put something together! I know i know,, the gantry is on backwards (i have a habit of this).... I got excited! but its proof of concept and it really does move with ease. This weekend i will move some stuff out of the room and make proper room for it. JOE, thank you so much for your help and such a wonderful kit. The community is great and i hope to become a success story and make some nice things. The wife is already pecking for things.

nego_0
09-22-2010, 09:26 PM
i ran my machine for the first time tonight. I have not installed the limit switches so i have not done much besides a bunch of jogging. But it works YAAAA!!! Like others i have a lot of wip in the Y axis. I will fix this with a heavy spring i hope. Im still trying to figure the best way to mount my microw limit switches. I guess nails will do. Thanks to evryone on this build. it took much longer than i ever entended. I will post video and pics this weekend.

Older pics from last week with the new table.

nego_0
09-25-2010, 08:12 PM
Here is the the build of the pc plus all the cnc hardware! I did a crapy job on the Gecko cut but the rest went perfect.. The cutting wheel i used for the Gecko was not up to the job. I should have waited. I plan to paint the entire case Hammered Black. I like the effect. Cheap build for the pc.

K7 Motherboard Free
Athlon 2.0Ghz Left over from years ago
2 Gig of ddr333 Left over from years gone past
400watt Antec smart power Left over from fried machine
9800 pro ATI left over from 3 generations ago!

This should run Mach 3 well!

Fatboy
09-26-2010, 12:16 AM
Your machine is really coming along. Glad to see that you've made a lot of progress since the last time I saw pictures of it. The computers that I used with mine were all Craigs List used specials and worked well. My machine however is still in Charleston stuck behind my 2500# lathe in the shed. I'm planning on moving back up to the Rocky Mount area on a couple of lots that I own. I would be allowed 2-144sqft sheds or may try to find a large older camper to gut out and use as a shop.

Keep up the good work,
Fatboy

Jason Marsha
09-26-2010, 11:20 AM
Congrats you are almost home, keep pushing for the finish and then post us a pic of the machine making chips.

Jason

nego_0
09-26-2010, 11:53 AM
I need to take a few pics today! i have run the machine just not cut anything yet! i need to get the limit switches done!

Fatboy
09-26-2010, 01:54 PM
Limit switches are a good thing to have to shut the machine down if it exceeds the maximum travel but if you are going to be standing watching on it's first cutting tests then you can shut it down well before it gets out of control.
Later on as you gain trust in your machine and programing abilities then limit switches are a must if something strange happens while you're not paying attention.

For right now crank it up and cut something.

Fatboy

nego_0
09-26-2010, 05:13 PM
LOL ok ok ill start and see how she works! i have to use my buddies router to cut a new holder for me my router is to big.

Ezra
10-02-2010, 07:37 PM
Nego,


Does the kit come with complete instructions?

Looking back, would you say the assembly is pretty straight forward?



I just purchased my kit this week from Joe, Im about to start what youve just finished.


Thank You and Congrats!!

nego_0
10-03-2010, 11:40 AM
Nego,


Does the kit come with complete instructions?

Looking back, would you say the assembly is pretty straight forward?



I just purchased my kit this week from Joe, Im about to start what youve just finished.


Thank You and Congrats!!

The kit is perfect! just take your time and check and double check before you glue. look 3 times before gluing your z axis!!! i messed that up. It is easy to build if you have the space to build it. I built mine in 3 locations because i did not have the space! Have a plan if you budgeted so much money, triple that! i think i started at 800$ and am at 1600$ And still going. Joe did an amazing job and should be giving a Nobel prize for the damn thing, its just amazing. Take your time and ask questions and everyone will help you online really they will. I started like a jerk thinking i new it all, little did i know i new nothing and am just now realizing how complex and rewarding this equipment is. Once again take your time it will pay off in the end. PM me if you need anything i will try and help.

nego_0
10-03-2010, 11:44 AM
I ran several attempts today and the machine acts like i would expect. I don't understand why every thing i run in mach 3 it seems to try and zero itself out. I wanted to run a test and it automatically raises an inch and goes to the right rear corner. Is there a way to run the G Code here button in Mach 3 Trial ver. I tried to run the Road Runner and i was unable to. I still have not installed my Limit switches. If i set up Soft limits will that work for the time being. I would like to run Code that looks like a square intersected at all 4 corners to center with a circle in the square. I was able to draw it in cad import it to Lazy cam and well i think i screwed up from there. I'm not cutting i'm using a pen for now for plotting till i feel i understand the machine. here is the DXF. All i want to do is place the pen at a corner of the drawing and run the code i don't want it to go to the home position or whatever it is doing.
YouTube - First moves of my CNC

WOW that G540 Gets WARM!!! a fan is a must.

Fatboy
10-03-2010, 08:15 PM
Congratulations on getting your machine up and running!!! Now on to learning to make it do as you wish. Sometimes it seems like the machine or software has a mind of it's own but I know from experience that most of the time it's doing exactly as commanded. It's possible that the moves that your machine is making are actually part of the g-code. To that end, post the code so we can take a look.

The first thing that I learned was that Lazy Cam only makes learning a lot harder. Once I switched to Cut2d I was able to advance at a much faster rate and do things with my machine that others were doing with theirs.
I only wish that I would have had the money to go with V-Carve. Plus I started right off with Mach 3 after playing with TurboCNC and Kcam before even completing my first machine in Jan 2009.

Setting up soft limits are a good idea for your machine even after you get the limit switches installed. There's a lot of people who only use soft limits and have good results. Also, it's a good bet that even if you max out an axis that you'll only lose steps when the steppers are unable to advance.

My machine is still in my shed and I haven't run it since leaving there in July. Plus next week I'm moving to my property in NC and don't have a place to set up as yet for the near future. I'm worried about forgetting the things that I've learned and having to start over when I can finally find a place and the money to enjoy my machine again. At least I have my shop computer set up and I can play with the programs.

BTW, what is the diameter of your test design? I can run it through Cut2d and send you the code if you like. I'll need feeds(30ipm), speeds(n/a), and tool(pen).

EDIT: I ran your DXF in Cut2d and it appears that the center of the design is located at X16.8502" Y28.5909" so if you zero the machine and then run the code you generated the first thing that will happen is that the machine will move to the location of the design. I find that it's easier to use the center. Also, I can create a profile cut code but there are open vectors that will not cut. Let me play with it, I'm a little rusty.

Fatboy

nego_0
10-04-2010, 05:38 AM
Congratulations on getting your machine up and running!!! Now on to learning to make it do as you wish. Sometimes it seems like the machine or software has a mind of it's own but I know from experience that most of the time it's doing exactly as commanded. It's possible that the moves that your machine is making are actually part of the g-code. To that end, post the code so we can take a look.

The first thing that I learned was that Lazy Cam only makes learning a lot harder. Once I switched to Cut2d I was able to advance at a much faster rate and do things with my machine that others were doing with theirs.
I only wish that I would have had the money to go with V-Carve. Plus I started right off with Mach 3 after playing with TurboCNC and Kcam before even completing my first machine in Jan 2009.

Setting up soft limits are a good idea for your machine even after you get the limit switches installed. There's a lot of people who only use soft limits and have good results. Also, it's a good bet that even if you max out an axis that you'll only lose steps when the steppers are unable to advance.

Edit

I just read your edit ahhh!!! Grasshopper whants to learn how to zero the machine?

My machine is still in my shed and I haven't run it since leaving there in July. Plus next week I'm moving to my property in NC and don't have a place to set up as yet for the near future. I'm worried about forgetting the things that I've learned and having to start over when I can finally find a place and the money to enjoy my machine again. At least I have my shop computer set up and I can play with the programs.

BTW, what is the diameter of your test design? I can run it through Cut2d and send you the code if you like. I'll need feeds(30ipm), speeds(n/a), and tool(pen).

EDIT: I ran your DXF in Cut2d and it appears that the center of the design is located at X16.8502" Y28.5909" so if you zero the machine and then run the code you generated the first thing that will happen is that the machine will move to the location of the design. I find that it's easier to use the center. Also, I can create a profile cut code but there are open vectors that will not cut. Let me play with it, I'm a little rusty.

Fatboy

5x5 square with the square X'ed and a circle toucheing all 4 lenghts. i would like to over lay a 15*15 over that to check how well it tracks. The DXF is in the above post. ill send the code i used tonight.

Fatboy
10-04-2010, 09:25 AM
5x5 square with the square X'ed and a circle toucheing all 4 lenghts. i would like to over lay a 15*15 over that to check how well it tracks. The DXF is in the above post. ill send the code i used tonight.

I see the 5" box which makes the circle diameter 7.0711" however either the box or the diagonal lines are an open vector that I haven't been able to close. Looking at the nodes shows me that none are missing. I get the open vector message on the lines but when I create the code it's the box that fails. May have to convert to 4 triangles to resolve.

Can you post the g-code, I can probably fix that easier and faster.

Right now I have electric problems in NC to get ironed out, I have to pull another permit/inspection ($55) before the power company will reconnect...BS, BS, BS!!!

nego_0
10-04-2010, 07:34 PM
here is the code i have

N5 (File Name = CNC_TEST on Monday, October 04, 2010)
N10 (Default Mill Post)
N15 G91.1
N20 G0 Z1.0000
N25 M3
N30 X19.3433 Y31.0613
N35 Z0.1000
N40 G42
N45 G1 X14.3433 Y26.0613 Z0.0000 F60.00
N50 G0 Z1.0000
N55 X19.3433
N60 Z0.1000
N65 G42
N70 G1 X14.3433 Y31.0613 Z0.0000
N75 G0 Z1.0000
N80 X14.3433 Y26.0613
N85 Z0.0000
N90 G1 Y31.0613
N95 X19.3433
N100 Y26.0613
N105 G40
N110 X14.3433
N115 G0 Z1.0000
N120 X20.3789 Y28.5613
N125 Z0.1000
N130 G2 Z0.0000 I-3.5355 J0.0000
N135 G0 Z1.0000
N140 M5
N145 M30

nego_0
10-04-2010, 08:46 PM
I kinda figured out how to zero the machine. I ran the road runner after moding the code to have no z movment to plot. lol now i now why 500 lines is so little it only did 1/5th the roadrunner looked great though!!!

Can some one explain how to zero the machine to one corner of a drawing. im confused on how this works. Im used to a laser cutter wich you place set as home and tell it to start on left corner or highest point of vector. What i want to do is place the home in the center of the work areay/drawing???? is this possible.

Fatboy
10-04-2010, 09:00 PM
here is the code i have

N5 (File Name = CNC_TEST on Monday, October 04, 2010)
N10 (Default Mill Post)
N15 G91.1
N20 G0 Z1.0000
N25 M3
N30 X19.3433 Y31.0613
N35 Z0.1000
N40 G42
N45 G1 X14.3433 Y26.0613 Z0.0000 F60.00
N50 G0 Z1.0000
N55 X19.3433
N60 Z0.1000
N65 G42
N70 G1 X14.3433 Y31.0613 Z0.0000
N75 G0 Z1.0000
N80 X14.3433 Y26.0613
N85 Z0.0000
N90 G1 Y31.0613
N95 X19.3433
N100 Y26.0613
N105 G40
N110 X14.3433
N115 G0 Z1.0000
N120 X20.3789 Y28.5613
N125 Z0.1000
N130 G2 Z0.0000 I-3.5355 J0.0000
N135 G0 Z1.0000
N140 M5
N145 M30

Ok, I looked this over and like I said before the machine is doing as you wish, pen up 1" per N20 and then to the start point as specified by N30 (X19.3433 Y31.0613). That puts your work near the middle of the table. So if you zero the X and Y you must account for the intial move to the N30 location. If the zero is close to the center of the table to begin with then you can see the problem here.

Also, by looking at the nodes in your design I can see a lot of wasted motion and running the file through Mach3 this is easily observable as the pen goes to the farthest point on the circle before drawing the first diagonal back and down. This is also the starting point for the circle. When you create a DXF file to convert be careful as you draw as the points that you start a line or circle will control the places and order that the machine will follow.
In Cut2d I can see the green nodes that indicate the start points for cuts and can change the start to a different node as needed to minimize the moves.

Now speaking of Cut2d, it does not like your test graphic. It tells me that there are duplicate lines that it won't cut so I can get the X and circle but not the box. Also I like to use the center of a design as my 0,0 that way I can measure my material and place a mark which I use to position the tool, zero X & Y, and touch off the Z on the surface and zero it.
Then I run the program. All the Z moves will be negative for cuts. Note too that I use Absolute Mode instead of Incremental. I've found to that when using the Axis Calibration on the Setup Page that I have to go back to the General Config Page and reset to Absolute.

BTW, Mach3 demo is a full blown system but limited in the size of the file that can be run.

I miss my machine...
Fatboy

Fatboy
10-04-2010, 09:23 PM
Here, try this, minus the box. The center is the X and cut depth is .01".
Just a quickie during a commercial break of Am Pickers.

Crap...to big, PMed

Edit, Never mind it loaded...

nego_0
10-04-2010, 09:51 PM
HEHE beet you to it lol.. my Z axis was backwards hence the pen smashing.... i have editd the code to work before i had seen your post. Easy to change the code for the Z not ot rais 0.1000 to 0.000 and then i have good lines. Problem for me though. the square is not square the corners are rounded could be pen flex but i doubt it seems like the motor has to much inertia.

Fatboy
10-04-2010, 09:51 PM
Another commercial, another file.
Forgot to change the start points but this is the entire design.

nego_0
10-04-2010, 09:53 PM
N5 (File Name = CNC_TEST on Monday, October 04, 2010)
N10 (Default Mill Post)
N15 G91.1
N20 G0 Z1.0000
N25 M3
N30 X19.3433 Y31.0613
N35 Z0.0000
N40 G42
N45 G1 X14.3433 Y26.0613 Z0.0000 F60.00
N50 G0 Z1.0000
N55 X19.3433
N60 Z0.000
N65 G42
N70 G1 X14.3433 Y31.0613 Z0.0000
N75 G0 Z1.0000
N80 X14.3433 Y26.0613
N85 Z0.0000
N90 G1 Y31.0613
N95 X19.3433
N100 Y26.0613
N105 G40
N110 X14.3433
N115 G0 Z1.0000
N120 X20.3789 Y28.5613
N125 Z0.0000
N130 G2 Z0.0000 I-3.5355 J0.0000
N135 G0 Z1.0000
N140 M5
N145 M30
my code! Still cant figure out if it is my offset causing the rounded corner or what is it backlash or somtihing else. Thank You for Your code it was great to have a second set of eyes on this!!!. Ill upload an image of my pen plot tomarrow. Im gona crash for the night. Im going to have great dreams knowing it is working just need to dial it in and ill be cutting this weekend. My first peice is going to be a new router holder for my big 2/14 hp craftsman. Ill post up the code so you can look at it. Im a little scarred i will not get the passes correct. Thanks agian

nego_0
10-09-2010, 03:43 PM
im not sure what is going on but i have posted this vid to show the rounded corners on plot. what is causing the 90Degree coner to be ronded.

YouTube

Ezra
10-09-2010, 04:52 PM
bro,
can u unprivate the video.

nego_0
10-09-2010, 05:53 PM
No longer private

YouTube - Backash

It seems like my motors dont stop spinning when it goes to the next move kinda like there is still some inertia? Not sure if this makes any sense. it seems realy bad on the right side of the Y movments

joecnc2006
10-09-2010, 06:08 PM
Are you machining online or outside of profile?

If outside of profile in the picture the yellow is the tool, the green is the tool path and the magenta is the stock corner, if you machine on the outside the tool has to make a radius to keep the inside corner edge.

If you are machining online check your constant velocity mode and IJ made in mach3.

nego_0
10-09-2010, 06:49 PM
Are you machining online or outside of profile?

If outside of profile in the picture the yellow is the tool, the green is the tool path and the magenta is the stock corner, if you machine on the outside the tool has to make a radius to keep the inside corner edge.

If you are machining online check your constant velocity mode and IJ made in mach3.

I found the constant velocity settings. If you set your tool diamiter to 0.00 the you are online or am i making another newbee mistake.

[edit]

Joe you on the money as always. the cv setting realy was causing the problem. once i turned it off all i have perfect corners. Tool diam killed me all day. I now know why my tool diam is set at 0.00. I do not have a full copy of lazycam pro just the demo so i cant set my tool path correctly for the tool. I guess ill need to buy a cam program since Lazycam is still beta i may as well spend a little more for somthinng else. Is there a free one out there for 2d cuts?

[edit 2]

In mach 3 you can set you tool diam in the lower center of the run program screen. Does this set the actual diam for the g code? what does it actualy do? I also played with the multi pass today and it seemed to work well but my initial cut does not plunge but slowly reaches it cut depth over an entire move it does this for each pass. Thats not a normal thing is it? ill post a screen later tonight so you will be able to see the strange cut.

[edit 3 ]
I found that the strange cut with the swoop was because my plunge speed was at 0.00 . However i am confused because i did this all in mach 3. i figured out how to do this in lazycam and its all better. Strange!

[edit 4]
No i was wrong it is not better. i am noticing in lazycam when i have a flat object no depth to cut that at the first point it should go to 0.00 to the surface it actualy gradualy does it. Why is this. I know its somthing simpile. Can someone post a tutorial on how this is done correct. I load my DXF, Reset orgin Clean it up and set rappids to 1.0 and i should be good. but my first second rapid the one that goes down does not go the full distance? ok take a look at the image and let me know.

Ezra
10-24-2010, 12:45 AM
Nego_o,

How easy is it for a novice to learn/work with Mach3?




My Joes2006 has just arrived and I have my computer and just paid for myMach3.

3 axis kit on Nov19:D and we should be in business.

Thank You

nego_0
10-24-2010, 11:16 AM
It took me a week max to understand mach 3. I just had to play around with it. Dont play around with it with a cutting bit though. i just did movments, pen tests and now im good to go. I wish lazy cam worked better so i moved to autocad 3 G code. and it works as it should. It takes time lots of it. 9 months build and test time for me. I still want to start over and do things diffrent. Glue evrything, any thing mdf glue it. Be respectful on the forms and there will always be someone there to help. Let me know what i can do to help and i will.

lumberjack_jeff
10-24-2010, 11:56 AM
Sheetcam's free trial will allow you to output 150 lines of code.

For small stuff, it's often enough.

For me it was worth the $200 - it works really well and the developer does a good job of support.

nego_0
01-30-2011, 07:40 PM
ran the machine for the first time with everything on it. first cut was tonight and it went well. I need to do the T slot table. I found that i was not strong enough to keep my project from moving. I ended up using Cut2d demo to see how it all works out and well it works out great! i think i need a few end mills now and some t slot track and ill be done. :D I know your never done but at least its usable.

Is there a collets system for routers that will hold the small 2mm or 3mm end mills. Or are there end mills that have 1/4 shanks but are 2mm cutting heads?

EDIT some new pics of my first two real cuts. the balsa looks bad for many reasons. Sorry for the bad web cam shots. My camera is out of batteries of all things.
1-Forgot to zero (tool crash bad!)
2-I held the balsa down rather than finding a better secure method.

The foam turned out great i have nor complaints.

nego_0
02-01-2011, 07:06 PM
So ive been looking for End Mills and i find that none realy fit my router for what i want to do. I plan on doing a lot of Ribs For Model Airplanes. 1/4 is just to big for what i want. so ive looked and cant seem to find endmills that are about 1/8". So what i was wondering if this would work.

Amazon.com: 85-101, 1/4" Shank Upcut Spiral Router Bit, 1/8" Cutter Diam., 1/2" Cutter Height: Home Improvement

I am looking for 1/4" shank or 1/2" shank. I need to cut at about an 1/8th". I cut foam balsa and plywood / carbon plate (not realy thick maybee 2/32 thick.

calgrdnr
02-01-2011, 07:44 PM
I would look for downward spiral for that thin of material will help hold in place.

Tooling (http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectric/links/tooling.htm)


good info and links to tool suppliers


Kent

EBC
02-01-2011, 08:38 PM
Two Flute Solid Carbide Routers SINGLE END - CENTER CUTTING (http://www.discount-tools.com/endmills/3935.cfm)

nego_0
02-01-2011, 08:54 PM
Thank you.

nego_0
02-01-2011, 08:56 PM
Im worried. My machine is cutting fin. I love it. but after 7 min of cuttin i notice that the G540 is hot relly hot, and the motors are so hot i cant touch them i meen blazing!!! the motor on my Z axis bearly does anything and it was just as hot is this normal?:confused:

CNC Lurker
02-01-2011, 10:05 PM
Im worried. My machine is cutting fin. I love it. but after 7 min of cuttin i notice that the G540 is hot relly hot, and the motors are so hot i cant touch them i meen blazing!!! the motor on my Z axis bearly does anything and it was just as hot is this normal?:confused:

I see you bought the kit from CNCRouterparts. The problem is that the resistor is in the wrong location. It is supposed to be on the end of the cable attached to the Gecko G540, not the motor end.

See this thread: Important Gecko 540 info - news to me!! LINK (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/118885-important_gecko_540_info_-.html)

Fatboy
02-02-2011, 10:07 AM
So ive been looking for End Mills and i find that none realy fit my router for what i want to do. I plan on doing a lot of Ribs For Model Airplanes. 1/4 is just to big for what i want. so ive looked and cant seem to find endmills that are about 1/8". So what i was wondering if this would work.

Amazon.com: 85-101, 1/4" Shank Upcut Spiral Router Bit, 1/8" Cutter Diam., 1/2" Cutter Height: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/85-101-Spiral-Router-Cutter-Height/dp/B000W3K2HG)

I am looking for 1/4" shank or 1/2" shank. I need to cut at about an 1/8th". I cut foam balsa and plywood / carbon plate (not realy thick maybee 2/32 thick.

I use 1/8" shank Dremel bits in my router for small stuff. I'll have to look up where I got it from but I bought a 1/8" ID 1/4" OD split sleeve adapter. The smallest 1/4" shank tool that I use is an 1/8" two flute straight bit from Lowes.

Fatboy

nego_0
02-02-2011, 02:49 PM
I see you bought the kit from CNCRouterparts. The problem is that the resistor is in the wrong location. It is supposed to be on the end of the cable attached to the Gecko G540, not the motor end.

See this thread: Important Gecko 540 info - news to me!! LINK (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/118885-important_gecko_540_info_-.html)

Never fails does it. So what should i do then call CNCrouterparts or do i have to cut out the resistor and place it on the gecko side. It blows my mind to that placing that resistor cools the motor? I dont want to kill my motors i just got it up and running. Is there a dongle premaid for this?

I ran 400 Lines of code tonight took about 33 min. My motors were around 150F Jesus thats hot? I used a meat thermometer (anolog) i ruber banded it to the motor to cover as much surface of the long needle as possibe and it was at 150 when all said and done. i one of the motors was closer to 160f. this seems hotter than i would expect?

CNC Lurker
02-02-2011, 06:16 PM
Never fails does it. So what should i do then call CNCrouterparts or do i have to cut out the resistor and place it on the gecko side. It blows my mind to that placing that resistor cools the motor? I dont want to kill my motors i just got it up and running. Is there a dongle premaid for this?

I ran 400 Lines of code tonight took about 33 min. My motors were around 150F Jesus thats hot? I used a meat thermometer (anolog) i ruber banded it to the motor to cover as much surface of the long needle as possibe and it was at 150 when all said and done. i one of the motors was closer to 160f. this seems hotter than i would expect?

Read that thread; a solution is to purchase the EZ-G540.

In another thread, I don't remember which one, it was posted that CNCRouterparts would have a fix at the end of February. It consisted of a short cable that had the resistors and it attaches between the long motor cables and the Gecko.

nego_0
02-02-2011, 06:50 PM
Read that thread; a solution is to purchase the EZ-G540.

In another thread, I don't remember which one, it was posted that CNCRouterparts would have a fix at the end of February. It consisted of a short cable that had the resistors and it attaches between the long motor cables and the Gecko.

CNCrouterparts wrote this to me today!
Samuel,

We have adapters coming in at the end of the month that move the resistor to the drive side. I will ship you 4 of them once they arrive. This should fix the heat issue you have with your motors.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts (http://www.cncrouterparts.com)

nego_0
02-03-2011, 06:06 PM
having fun!! i found that my end nuts on my lead screws had all started coming loose. i also found that my love joy couplers started getting loose. so i fixed that and tuned the gantry a bit to have better bearing contact. i also stretched the bend out of the y axis with a few more turns. im starting to slowly ramp up the speed to see what will work. im at 65 ipm. What is the norm for most of you? :D

Fatboy
02-03-2011, 11:35 PM
I run mine at 100 during the summer and 75 winter. However if I'm cutting a design with a lot of short moves I'll set the feed rate in half.

Fatboy.

neurofen
02-11-2011, 11:51 AM
are you still married? i havent ssen my girlfriend for about a month and a half. :D

nego_0
02-11-2011, 03:04 PM
:cheers:LOL!!! i sure am. She make me use my CNC machine daily now for her. Funn you ask i actualy have 2 wives. one is my wife wife and the other is the F-22. I married both when i joined the AF.

neurofen
02-11-2011, 04:15 PM
holy ****. you fly the f-22 or work on it? i had a flight sim with the raptor in it, not quite the same though, Always wanted to fly jets.

nego_0
02-11-2011, 05:05 PM
Im a 2w1/462 weapons troop. I maintain the beast.

neurofen
02-11-2011, 05:13 PM
sweet

nego_0
02-14-2011, 10:25 AM
my Y axis has a huge bow in it. Ive tried mutiple acme screws. they hall have masive bows in them. I have used the oil finiesh screw. Should i go with the more expensive stainles steel finesh from McMaster-carr? Or am i just unlucky?

Fatboy
02-14-2011, 11:54 AM
Bent lead screws are a pain in the arse. I upgraded from single starts to 5 starts in the first week because I thought that the 5's would be higher quaility with less run out. Actually they were worse than the single starts so I had to devise a method to straighten them.

I chucked the screws in a lathe and then fixed a piece of shim stock to ride on the outside diameter. This gave a surface to allow a dial indicator to show the runout as the chuck was rotated by hand. A collar helped support the screw on the outboard end of the spindle bore.

Then working with about 6" extending from the chuck I adjusted the runout by bending the screw with a pipe to the minimum deflection. Marked the screw at the chuck end and extended another 6". After doing this for the entire length I repeated the whole proccess in 3" sections. It takes awhile but I did get my screws fairly straight. The Z axis was a real pain because it's so long.

Be real careful when handling the screws because they are easy to bend again.

Fatboy

nego_0
02-14-2011, 01:27 PM
this is gona suck! as for your Z axis is that not your height axis?

Fatboy
02-15-2011, 09:04 AM
this is gona suck! as for your Z axis is that not your height axis?

TYPO.... I meant X, Sorry. They are next to each other on the keyboard and even after proofreading this about 5 times I still screwed up.

Worst yet is that I haven't checked in till this morning to see that I threw you a curve ball, my bad!

Fatboy

nego_0
02-15-2011, 11:15 AM
No problem i found it funny!

nego_0
02-15-2011, 11:16 AM
I lied as well it is my X axis but for some reason i thought is was my Y lol.

Fatboy
02-15-2011, 07:16 PM
I lied as well it is my X axis but for some reason i thought is was my Y lol.

Now that's funny!!!

I've been looking at setting up a lathe running Mach3Turn. Working with X and Z running in what seems all the wrong directions is a challenge.
My brain hurts...

Fatboy

nego_0
02-20-2011, 03:22 PM
I have seen photos of some of our machines with steel angle iron on the outside of the gantry. What is this for? I'm having problems with bearing contact and when i try and tune up the gantry i get bowing at the base of the gantry. Is that what they are using the angle iron for? and can i see some better pics of any one has them of how you mounted the angel iron.

Question 2,
i was also looking at a surfacing bit. Would this work for a low cost alternitive to a spoilboard bit. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM214688129P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7 ?

Fatboy
02-20-2011, 05:07 PM
Those angles make the gantry more rigid...one of these days I'm going to cut a set out of bed rail for mine. That rail has been standing next to the door forever...one of the these days!
In the mean time I added a couple of 1/4" all thread rods across the gantry just below the carriage. These will help with the bowing out of the gantry legs as you honk down on the X axis.

Bit looks like it would do the job. I just replaced my spoil board and trued with a 3/4" bit that I bought from Lowes for $13.95. I've found that 90% of the cutting that I do is in one area, therefore the spoil board is only 23.5" X 27.5". I'm kinda gun shy of truing as last year I burned up the amature on my 3/4hp router while running a 1/2" bit.

Fatboy

nego_0
02-20-2011, 06:19 PM
I lied as well it is my X axis but for some reason i thought is was my Y lol.

Hey what!!! i checked and my X axis is actualy my Y axis how did i mess that up and my machine runs just like i would expect it to so how and the heck am i runnin my g540 properly when my x an y are switched. now thats crazy. Fatboy i thought you would get a kick out of this.

Fatboy
02-20-2011, 11:20 PM
Oh the things that we learn when dealing with CNC!!! The machine doesn't really care which axis is which as long as there is enough travel. I still screw up, just last week I set about to cut a couple of clock hands along the Y axis. Problem was that they where coded for the X axis...well, I got it right the second time.
Also, it's hard to remove a drywall screw after it's been center drilled with a well placed 1/8" router bit, I'm getting good at it though!!!

One last thing, some times hooking up a stepper backwards can give a result that needs to be remembered. Case in point: While testing different motors for my 4th axis I cut the same file on some PVC pipe. The second motor seemed to be backwards and as I compared the two pipes could see that the second one was a mirror image of the first. Rolling the pipes together the designs matched perfectly. I decided that this mistake might have a future use.

Fatboy

nego_0
02-21-2011, 09:55 AM
I love it! I get a Kick out of the things i have found.

nego_0
03-20-2011, 04:05 PM
CNCrouterparts wrote this to me today!
Samuel,

We have adapters coming in at the end of the month that move the resistor to the drive side. I will ship you 4 of them once they arrive. This should fix the heat issue you have with your motors.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts (http://www.cncrouterparts.com)

I got word today that my new cables have shipped wich are wired with resistor on the proper side of the cable. This should keep my motors cooler anyways. Im so happy with cncrouterparts support. They shipped them to me for free!

Fatboy
03-20-2011, 11:28 PM
Hey, that's great news!!!
Now let's see some action out of that machine.

Fatboy

nego_0
03-22-2011, 05:08 PM
yes i cant wait!

Fatboy
03-22-2011, 06:34 PM
We'll look forward to seeing some sawdust soon...just don't do what I did yesterday.

I offered to make a buddy a no parking sign for his shop. Didn't take long to pocket a 16" X 24" sign with 3" lettering. Then I noticed that I spelled the first word wrong (VENDER). As a joke I showed it to him and said that I was going to make it over, he kept telling me that it looked fine until I told him that vender is spelled V E N D O R!!! His friend stated several times to just cut out the "E" and put an "O" instead, he didn't understand how the letters where created and that it only took 20 minutes to cut it. Finally I made my point by breaking the sign in half.

BTW: I've been using mobile home door skins for years to make signs. My buddy saves them out of the dumpster for me and being masonite the cuts are crisp and clean. Most are 84" X 30" and thickness is generally .120", I pocket at .070". My brother's coffee shop is full of signs that he wanted, however, I got tired of paying for the shipping. They also hold up well outside if sprayed with a cheap clear coat to seal them.

Fatboy

nego_0
11-26-2011, 07:31 PM
I moved, so my machine has been down for a while a long while. Its back up and running and im doing real cuts now. I found a problem that bothers me. when i cut a circle its off by a bit a 16th or 2. i think its my love joy couplings deflecting when the stepper turns. does this sound correct. and is there a way to fix it.

Fatboy
11-26-2011, 08:40 PM
Welcome back!!!

I had that problem with my lovejoys too and thought about deleting them. My first crude homemade machine didn't use them.
However I tried running a layer of tape around them and wow what a difference. The machine even sounds different.

It's easy to start the tape and then jog the axis while holding the roll to wind it on. The only thing that I'd do different is not use black electrical tape (at least the cheap stuff) as the adhesive is messy after awhile.

I cut a couple of signs for my grandkids on Thanksgiving, first time in months that I've fired the machine up. I've waited all summer for it to get cool and even when it did I just can't get motivated to do much.

Fatboy

nego_0
11-26-2011, 10:04 PM
Hey!! how you been. So the tape compresses the rubber grommet keeping the back lash at a minimum? I pulled a ton of back lash out tonight and did a pencil test on the spoil board and wow it was perfect circle. but when i get a cutting load on the router i know its deflecting. Matter of fact i can pull on the bit and see deflection. Any ideas with that. I fixed the coupling a little by compressing them into one another. They are so tight now that the almost seem to be bulging out.

Fatboy
11-27-2011, 09:49 AM
The tape serves to connect the two hubs together so that there is no play (backlash) between the hubs and the spider. I tried the spider smash too but couldn't get the results that I was looking for, the tape really helps.

I also tried putting strips of tape between the lugs and the spider but it's a pain getting the coupling back together again and the results weren't that great either.

Keep in mind that (if you're like me) you'll spend as much time tuning, tweaking, and modifying your router as you spent building it. I'm thinking of a sliding knot system on the gantry for mine. I already have a 4th axis rotary setup made out of an old Craftsman 6" lathe... Speaking of lathe, I've been collecting parts to convert a small one to cnc. I have the steppers and will need another driver kit from HobbyCNC. The biggest challenge is the different axis designations, they seem all backwards to what I'm used to.

Mach3 has a turn program that I've been playing with and there is LazyTurn but it's about like LazyCam in usefullness. Luckily there's other programs that are fairly cheap.

Well, keep up the good work and keep us posted on your progress.

BTW, still at Langley? Or did the move mean a transfer?

Fatboy

nego_0
11-27-2011, 09:54 AM
Still at langley. Im never gona leave the pit lol. Im gona try the tape thing it sound like a great idea. If i can pull the wip out of my X axis im gona be in good shape. i get little vibration at 50ipm but at 75 it as the gantry gets to either end it begins to shake. imm going to have to post a video of it for ya. Today im going to make a calabration drawing to see jut how bad it realy is.

Fatboy
11-27-2011, 10:39 AM
I think that everyone has had a problem with the X axis whip. One of the issues with a long lead screw, especially the smaller diameter ones.
Higher feed rates will produce more whip, you have to find the trade off for your machine as they are all different. Last summer I spent hours trueing my lead screws in the big lathe using a dial indicator. This really helped the Y & Z axis but the X was fine for a while and now it has a little shake back in it again. If you run an X axis straight cut (about 12") you will see a rough pattern in the Y plane. Try it at diffeent feed rates to see how the roughness changes. I only see this pattern on straight cuts and it is easily sanded off.

Pick a feed rate that is a trade off between shake and the need for speed.

Also, the angle iron gantry side modification may be just the ticket to help correct the shake in the Y axis....maybe I'll put that on the list next.
It stiffens the gantry...I should do this today. Maybe, well I'll have to think about it some more. Besides, now I have to go search for it again, I think it's in the Modifications thread.

fatboy

Fatboy
11-27-2011, 11:12 AM
Ok, I looked up the mods, actually it was easy to find them, they were the first couple of posts in te Mods section.

Check out video #4 on CNCJay.com (http://www.cncjay.com/)
In fact watch all the videos, 1-4 for the router.

nego_0
11-27-2011, 12:29 PM
yep if i stiffen up the gantry im sure i will be a lot better. I ran my test and it turned out well.. i want to build a plotter pen today but as far as i can tell im looking good. i do see som rounding on square corners. Not sure if thats the pencil deflecting or not gona give it another go. my circles were dead on.

nego_0
11-27-2011, 01:32 PM
ran the machine at mutiple feed rates 25imp is nice, 50 is bad 100 is horrible. Its all in my X axis im i know its because of the crappy drill job i did when building the machine. i had a drill press with lots of wobble. so i guess what i can do is cut new parts at 20ipm and redplace and see if that pulls out the whip in my x axis. I built my own plotter pen with dual springs for constant force and it worked great ill post it up tonight on how i did it for free! After the parts are cut i know i can use hard couplings! yaaa!!! :cheers:

Fatboy
11-27-2011, 09:48 PM
Glad to see that you are making some progress!!!

I gave my machine a 2nd birthday party today and gifted it an angle iron gantry brace. But when I looked at the right gantry side I was shocked to see that the lower half was bowed outward and the bottom box was pulling apart. I know that early on I may have over tightened the gantry and worried that this would happen. This is the only place that I didn't install 1/4" all thread brace rods.

Soo...I'm going to add a couple of bracing rods and then cut a whole new gantry, and while I'm at it I might as well cut the rest of parts to build an entire machine. It's going to be a lot easier this time because I can cut just about everything without indexing the larger parts as I had to do on my old machine. Plus I won't have to figure out all the dxf's, nesting the cuts, and figuring out the depths of pockets.

Meanwhile back at the farm, What pipes are you using for the X axis? All my pipes have spiral ridges that impart a little shake into the gantry as it travels. I never looked at it as a problem, now I realize that it can be better. Adding the gantry brace to the left side helped quite a bit but it's still there. I'm running at 90ipm feed rates which is my summer rate, during the winter I can get better than 100 without problems.

I've been composing this post for over 4 hours now and things keep coming up so I'll have to give it up for now.

Fatboy

Fatboy
12-04-2011, 09:05 PM
Mods, Mods, and More Mods....

Since my last post I've added two threaded rods to the bottom of the gantry and added a moving knot system on the gantry.

The threaded rods really straightened things out, in fact I dropped my plan to recut a new gantry. Did the moving knot tonight and it works well, I believe that it just about eliminated the X axis shake that we were experiencing.

If you decide to do the mods now is the time, don't wait two years like I did. They are all worth while and well documented.

Good Luck
Fatboy

nego_0
12-04-2011, 11:11 PM
Post some pics im interested

Fatboy
12-05-2011, 12:49 AM
Post some pics im interested

Will do tomorrow!

nego_0
03-11-2012, 06:13 PM
Been a long long time. But i cut my first real peice today for my RC plane F-22 looks great to me. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/431483_262004213882471_100002186822349_612992_1606244710_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/426046_262004397215786_100002186822349_612993_1069191642_n.jpg

nego_0
03-18-2012, 08:09 PM
So i was able to work on some stuff today and ran in to a funny problem. I was cutting parts to make a cable chain. The looked preaty good but i could see som rounding of corners on 90 degrees and my circles must have been off because they did not fit in there holes with out some sanding. it seems i may have either a router bit that is not .25" or i have some back lash maybee? I was cutting .25" mdf at 3 passes and im shocked to see that kind of problem. Should i try and tighten up the machine or is there a way to compinsate for this?

nego_0
03-18-2012, 09:59 PM
your 3 pics did not show up. I did do some circle poket test and found out i was way off! did the back lash comp and had better results im .002 off from my x to y axis. my y motor makes a loud BEEP noise when it starts. i set my comp to 100% and my general step movment to .005 sec. like i saw in a youtube video. Im gona try cutting some parts agian and see if they fit together now. I aslo found out that my sears router bit is not a .25 its more like .245 lol. I guess cheap bits are not the way to go. Also im using MDF so im not sure if im getting the best readings from my Micrometer. Mach 3 Backlash Compensation - YouTube
I was wondering in the back lash setup what is the A B C for? my x and Y are close but my transitions are still of by .012 or so? LOL one more thing does your steppers get hot mine get warm but after an hour of running i can barly hold them?

kbisswanger
03-19-2012, 01:23 PM
If you are using Mach you might check the CV settings. Sometimes this causes the issues you have described.

Biss

nego_0
03-20-2012, 10:22 PM
my CV settings are old because im using an old versoin of mach 3. lol can i update with a new download or do i have to repay for it? also a .25" router bit is apparently 2.45ish what the heck. no wonder my 1 inch circle cut and my 1 inch pocket did not fit. lol.

kbisswanger
03-21-2012, 08:29 PM
http://www.machsupport.com/documentation.

there is some info on cv settings on mach's documentation section. You might play around with some of the values to see if it makes a difference.

nego_0
03-21-2012, 09:55 PM
I know i have to do this. Have any pics?

kbisswanger
03-23-2012, 09:45 AM
If you go into config-> General config. You will seen in the lower right a section with CV settings. Play around with "stop CV on angles > XXX. Check the box if it is not checked and try 89 degrees for a value. I'm no expert on Mach, but I have had issues with the CV settings in the past giving me rounded corners when they should have been "square." If no one else chimes in, a quick search of Mach3 CV settings will yield alot of information. Hope this helps.

Biss