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randyf1965
03-28-2005, 08:50 PM
OK, I used the toner transfer method and etched my boards. Found that Sharpie permanent marker does a good job repairing traces.

Also etchant works about twice as fast when it is WARM compared to room temp.

Having trouble getting the toner off the boards now, have to get some Acetone unless someone has a better method.

I scanned the boards before and after etching (once I figure out HOW to post them!)

trubleshtr
03-28-2005, 09:01 PM
Did you use an iron to transfer to the board?
I was wondering did you use the sharpie to fill in the missing toner?
I have never done my own boards, but I have a starter kit in my basement I want to try out one day.

WP1
03-28-2005, 09:22 PM
Not only does warm etchant work faster, but an aquarium air pump and air stone also makes a big difference by maintaining agitation. An aquarium heater works nicely as well.

The only problem with this is that you still have headaches aligning double sided boards, no plated through holes, no solder mask and no silk screen.

There are a lot of PC fab houses now that will give you free board layout software and produce small run DS/plated through/solder masked and silk screened boards in week for under $75. A few even have an ultra basic DS/plated through option without the mask and screen for even less.

You can find many of these outfits advertising in Circuit Cellar, most are US or Canada.

It's about at the point where it's not worth the trouble to etch your own boards and have the uncertainty of alignment and hairline cracks when a few $ more will have pro quality boards on your doorstep by the end of the week.

I used to etch my own boards in the past, but I doubt I will for my next project, even though I like playing with chemicals.

Pete C.

chuckknigh
03-28-2005, 10:59 PM
Why are you trying to get the toner off the boards? It'll protect the copper, and "disappear" with the heat of the soldering iron.

If I were you, I'd just leave it.

So, how did you do the toner transfer? Plastic overhead transparency sheet, or clay coated paper, or what? I've read mixed reviews of every process, though your boards seem to have come out rather nicely.

Give us some hints!

-- Chuck Knight

randyf1965
03-29-2005, 06:59 AM
Staples "Picture Paper" (30-sheet package): item #471861. It is $9.99 for 30 sheets. www.staples.com

it cost me:

$9.99 for the paper (30 sheets)
$4.00 for the boards (2-4x6)
$3.99 for the etchant (16oz)
Knowledge gained PRICELESS!

I printed the toner transfers 6 on a page at work. Cut them out, 2 minutes of ironing. Soaked in hot water for a couple of minutes then rubbed the paper off and used an old toothbrush to clean off the rest.

The first board with cold etchant took 20 minutes in a plastic container rocking back and forth. the next 3 took less than 10 after I sat the container in a sink with HOT water.

I don't think a double sided board would be that hard. I would iron 1 side to the board then drill 4 holes (maybe 2 would work) thru the board at opposite corners. Drill the other side toner traces int he same spot then use jumper wire to align it long enough to iron a couple of spots on the board to secure the toner sheet to it. Remove the jumpers and iron it on and continue as before.

If you look at the boards I made after they were etched, there are initials etched on the boards the upper left was my first try, Sharpie marker was on too thin but the others turned out great.

I am going to try roughing up the front of the board with sandpaper (fine) then printing the front silkscreen with yellow toner (work again) and ironing it on.

randyf1965
05-04-2005, 12:42 AM
Ordered my stepper from AutomationDirect the 276oz Bipolars.... still working on the pic reprogram of 2 flaky pic's. Should have it working tomorrow, get the steppers Thursday.

Looking to buy my wood this weekend and start cutting and building.


Plenty of pictures to follow

vladdy
05-04-2005, 02:24 AM
It's not neccesary to remove the toner, it'll protect the copper a bit, but if you want it gone, easiest way is scotchbrite or steel wool pads, fast..

After assembly and soldering you can always spray on a layer of conformal to protect it after, or if you're cheap, semi transparent glass paint from Walmart works pretty good too, I like the blue myself..:)

randyf1965
05-07-2005, 11:06 PM
I am looking for a 8.2v zener diode. I built a JDM pic programmer but only had a 6.2 and a 9.1v zener and neither work. Plan calls for a 8.2v but I can't find it locally (Joliet IL) and shipping stinks on a $.09 part (Mouser $5.59)hahahaha

I can't get it to program the pic. keep getting verify errors in WinPic
Verifying 0x002007..0x002007
Verify Error: 002007: read 003FFF, wanted 003F45
ERROR: Programming FAILED !

Anyone work with this programmer? or have one that use 5.1v, 6.2 or 9.1v zeners! or know where a 8.2v zener is used? PC power supplies? vcr?

vladdy
05-08-2005, 12:27 AM
you can add standard diodes on top of the 6.2 zener [forward], as each will have the standard .67 volt drop, so...three diodes on top should give around 8.2....should be close enough for that circuit, as most zeners have a +/- of .2v

enjoy..

randyf1965
05-08-2005, 01:10 AM
on top?

vladdy
05-08-2005, 01:56 AM
yep...remember, zener voltage is 'aaproximate, so this will be 'close'

image enclosed shows voltage levels with three diodes inserted, I used models for 1N4001 diodes, 1N914 will give similar reference..

gmfoster
05-08-2005, 07:33 AM
on top?

In serries..

Garry

randyf1965
05-08-2005, 11:35 AM
It appears to be a combination of things, I did the diode in seires with the zener and it stil gave me errors on 2 of my pics. I swapped in a known good pic and it works fine..... just ordered 3 more pics (hopefully the 1st will program and I will have 2 spares!).

Now I need to repair 2 traces I pulled from the board during all my soldering/desoldering..... Anyone have any tips on repair?

randyf1965
05-11-2005, 08:51 PM
Picstep controller ... what are the minimum connections needed for operation?

pin signal
1 +5v
7 Step (PicStep)
8 Dir (PicStep)
10 GND

from Parallel port
2 Step
3 Dir

I have tried 3 boards and 3 pics and used the led light circuits and get nothing. I can trace the step pulse on the board but don't really know what to expect from the pic as an output to the input of the direction and step. I know the outputs of the pic are ra0, ra1, ra2 and ra3 also rb2, rb3, rb4 and rb5.

Any other signals needed on the NON-OPT interface board?

I got my Automation steppers and I am trying to get them stepping and I feel like I am taking steps backwards! thought I had 2 bad pics (which the replacement pic programmed fine) unless I had the config wrong for it

vladdy
05-12-2005, 02:29 AM
don't forget to hook up the ground from the parallel port, without the ground reference it [probably] won't pick up the step or direction inputs..

easy way to check driver board is to 'tap' the step input with a 5v from the board itself...each 'tap' would correspond to one step input, unless you're real shakey...but it still should move the stepper..

randyf1965
05-12-2005, 06:42 AM
Never having programmed a pic, is there anything in the config that needs to be set?

Using winpic and have options for OSC Oscillator, WDT Watchdog timer, PUT power up timer, etc

I can see the step pulse on the picstep, single step goes from 0v to 5v, direction change does the same thing.

Garfield2
05-13-2005, 12:52 AM
Never having programmed a pic, is there anything in the config that needs to be set?

Using winpic and have options for OSC Oscillator, WDT Watchdog timer, PUT power up timer, etc

I can see the step pulse on the picstep, single step goes from 0v to 5v, direction change does the same thing.

You need HS oscillator, the WDT and the PWRT (power-up timer) and the BOR (brown-out reset).

Cheers,
Alan.

abasir
05-13-2005, 04:34 AM
I am looking for a 8.2v zener diode. I built a JDM pic programmer but only had a 6.2 and a 9.1v zener and neither work. Plan calls for a 8.2v but I can't find it locally (Joliet IL) and shipping stinks on a $.09 part (Mouser $5.59)hahahaha

I can't get it to program the pic. keep getting verify errors in WinPic
Verifying 0x002007..0x002007
Verify Error: 002007: read 003FFF, wanted 003F45
ERROR: Programming FAILED !

Anyone work with this programmer? or have one that use 5.1v, 6.2 or 9.1v zeners! or know where a 8.2v zener is used? PC power supplies? vcr?

Looked like your programmer is okay since all other locations programmed & verified okay. 0x2007 is the configuration (fuse) area. 0x3FFF is the default thus it appear it was not programmed by the software you're using. Double check that you enable fuse or configuration programming in the software. I've been using JDM programmer with no problem, BTW, I used IC-Prog from http://www.ic-prog.com.

randyf1965
06-04-2005, 04:04 AM
WOOOOHOOOO!!!

Got all 3 PicSteps running thru the breakout board (NONOPTO)!!!!

Had to spin the steppers and grin like a crazy person watching a test file run on turbocnc!!!

Wood cutting and building pics to follow as soon as I start! tuned up the table saw last weekend for some cabinet work! so it is ready to go cut some wood

Planning a 2'x4' cutting area with the 4' on Y and 2' on X for possible future expansion but will probably just build a 2nd version from cast aluminum parts machined on the first version router!!!

Not quite like the Gingery Lathe building itself but still pretty cool!

Currently running the stepper with a 12V 20A power supply, How much faster would a 36v supply make them? Being a TIGHTWAD I will probably just build and use the 12v supply for now, unless I get a good deal on somehting better.

Also (I know soo many questions!) is it a good idea to put the drivers and break out board in the same case as the computer? I have a full sized tower case that I should be able to modify for an atx board (currently an old AT style). with plenty of room, it has a drive rail across the middle that will hold 2 5.25 full height drives end to end, so plenty of room for the 3 drivers, breakout board and the 12v/20a supply plus the motherboard, drives, power supply etc.

randyf1965
06-07-2005, 08:31 PM
1st parts cut, drilled and tapped. MDF threads are stronger than I would have guessed! Had to freehand the 1.5" hole with my scroll saw, smaller blocks will just be drilled (I have a 1 1/8" spade bit on hand)

I painted them grey just after this picture.... waiting for them to dry then will tap the holes again and redrill the other holes to clean any paint out.

randyf1965
06-13-2005, 01:42 AM
Picked up 2 6' 5/16-18 pieces of threaded rod and ran them thru a die. WOW! they were rough! had a HUGE pile of curls from them. smooth as silk now..... more to come

randyf1965
06-22-2005, 08:45 PM
Here is my Y axis beam. It is a torsion box design 5'6"x10.5"x3" . Sorry I didn't take any pictures while I was building.... wasn't sure how it would turn out!

Extremely rigid!! the top piece is made up of 2 1/4" strips of plywood (just had a spare sheet!) the bottom is 3 pieces. in the middle there are 2 strip running lengthwise with 12 smaller pieces cut over lapping and all glued with Gorilla glue or Nail power glue (same type as the Gorilla but cheaper). Each end has a 1 3/4" piece of plywood to secure it to the uprights.

It was very flimsy with the back, all the cross pieces, top and bottom. But after attaching the front piece it locked everything in place.

Total weight of the piece as it is right now is slightly under 15lbs, if that turns out to be too heavy I will drill some lightening holes in it. Should be able to drill at least 36 1"-2" holes on each side without reducing the strength.

The 4 holes on the end are so I can bolt it to the uprights which I am thinking of building as torsion boxes also (but this time with pictures)

randyf1965
06-30-2005, 08:08 PM
I will be using a 5/16-18 threaded rod using 276oz steppers is there a formual to determine approx how much weight it will move?

So far I have the Y gantry with the end uprights (total width 5'8" end uprights are 9"x23.5) and it weighs 21lbs. I still have alot of weight to hang off it figure total weight will be ~55lbs. Is this too heavy for my steppers? I know the weight will be rolling on bearings so it isn't over coming the frictional forces to move it.

I will try and take some pictures but being so long it is hard to get it all in the picture!

ger21
06-30-2005, 08:48 PM
The 5/16 threaded rod is probably going to be way too flimsy for a 4ft axis. And it will also move very slowly.

randyf1965
06-30-2005, 08:57 PM
OK, so what should I use instead?

Enco has 1/2-10 acme rod 6' for $6.99

ger21
06-30-2005, 09:08 PM
1/2-10 acme is the most common.

randyf1965
07-01-2005, 01:12 AM
Anyone know of a source in the Chicagoland area (southwestern suburbs) that I can buy acme threaded rod? I need to check the mailorder shipping costs first... gas at > $2.23/gallon limits the driving range for items that canbe mail ordered

lurch
07-01-2005, 01:27 AM
www.use-enco.com , or www.mscdirect.com are two possible online sources for mailorder....ymmv....

randyf1965
08-28-2005, 08:48 PM
I just picked up a Dual processor P3 (only 500mhz) with 1GB of ram and a 19" monitor for FREE!

Would this be fast enough for Mach2 or mach3?

ger21
08-28-2005, 09:01 PM
I just picked up a Dual processor P3 (only 500mhz) with 1GB of ram and a 19" monitor for FREE!

Would this be fast enough for Mach2 or mach3?

Although it's at the low end, I've heard of a lot of people that use 500's. Do a fresh install of Win2K or XP, though, and don't put anything else on it. The Mach2/3 Yahoo group has a list of Windows optimizations to improve performance.

Also, Mach3 is faster than Mach2 (uses less resources.) Mach3 also has a lot more features. There is really no reason to use Mach2 if you've never used either before.

randyf1965
08-29-2005, 10:23 PM
If not I found I can get 2 750mhz P3 (limited to 100mhz fsb) for $50 or 1ghz for $135 each

ger21
08-30-2005, 07:48 AM
You can get 750's for $50-$60 on Ebay.

randyf1965
04-11-2006, 11:03 PM
WOW.. Aug since my last update..... all 3 axis are built and spinning under Mach3 control!!!!! drew a 2" hexagon with a permanent marker and the start and finish were the SAME point! Pictures to follow

Only using 12V for a power supply right now and getting 12"/min kind of SLOW but not fast enough to get away from me and break itself!

Still have to build the table but might temp build a table and then let the router cut out a torsion box table for me..... *this is gonna be the coolest tool I have ever built, a tool that will build itself, better , stronger and faster (Yes I am humming the 6 Million Dollar man theme music)*

Still have some fine tuning /adjusting to do but so far, I am excited to see it move. I tried to stop the Y axis and I couldn't *didn't want to break something off of it!*

I don't think I will know how accurate it is until I mount the router on it, currently using an old Craftsmen router, until I prove it's worth and buy something better for it.

randyf1965
04-15-2006, 08:36 AM
Here is a scan you my first attempt using a pencil instead of a router. I knwo the temp piece of mdf I am using as a table is not level and a pencil wears pretty fast under pressure but the square is 1" and square. Also appears to have repeatability as I can home and re-run the same thing on and their is no noticeable deviation.

randyf1965
04-25-2006, 07:42 PM
ok, I now know Rotozip bit SUCK for cnc machines!

The notches are off by +.005" in width and the piece is -.011 in width. Can't accurately measure the 9" length. Way better than I could do by hand and much better than the rotozip bits. Currently using 12V it took 39 minutes to cut making .03" cuts, will wire up 3 PC power supplies for ~36 volts and see what happens. Would like to get total cut time down to <10 minutes as I have plans for about 30 of these ribs... I like 300 minutes compared to 1170 minutes.

What is the highest I can safely go with the PicStep? 48V before worrying about emf?

This piece was cut using an Atrax carbide 1/8" endmill from Enco (DT322-5008) right now less than $5. the top of the cross cuts has some splintering but the bottoms are smooth as are the rip cuts.

I know I have slop in my Z axis that will allow movement in the y-axis durin gy-axis changes so I will draw up new parts for my Z and have the router make it's own replacements!!!

This ROCKS....

randyf1965
04-27-2006, 11:42 AM
Pic #1 so attempts at cutting new ribs for a replacement torsion box for my X-axis

Pic#2 my old Craftsmen router I stripped to make it do something useful in it old age.

Pic#3 AZ full shot of my router in the rebuild process X-axis 54" Y-axis 27" and Z-axis 5"

Pic#4 X-axis bearing and AB nut

Pic#5 X-axis bearing support

Pic#6 X-axis stepper motor mount (Automation Direct 270oz)

randyf1965
04-27-2006, 11:43 AM
Pic#1 Y-axis AB nut
Pic#2 Y-Axis linear bearing
Pic#3 Z-axis

randyf1965
04-29-2006, 05:07 PM
WOW!! after cutting who know how many feet of 1/4" (acutally .2" plywood) I cut some 3/4" mdf... stuff cuts like butter, might have to rethink building with plywood and switch to 1/4" mdf

randyf1965
04-29-2006, 11:18 PM
Half of the new gantry is almost complete. Heck of a lot easier cutting all these ribs this time on the router. Last time I used a table saw and a jig, alot easier to draw it, convert it and click start.....

I am building the gantry in 2 parts 33" long x 9"x3" with supports for 1.25" black pipe on the top and bottom. The ribs are 1/4" plywood and the skins will be the same plywood with 1/32" grooves cut into them to lock the ribs to the skin for glueing.

2 more horizontal ribs to cut then the skins and the other half. I have to rebuild the X-axis so I can rebuild Z as it is sloppy, it works but I can't push very hard. Though I found out by mistake it can cut .4" thru plywood and mdf at 17"/min, edited g-code by hand.... wanted .04 but typed .4

joecnc2006
04-30-2006, 12:54 AM
Here is an example of how I cut the interlocking pieces, at the iner corners you can offset the route, that way when the pieces are put together and they mate with both pieces having the flat spots.

Joe

randyf1965
04-30-2006, 06:29 AM
It's all a learning experience... I have seen that option in Sheetcam, will give it a try, gotta be faster than hitting all the corners with a file!

randyf1965
04-30-2006, 11:20 AM
Over cutting works on wide notches but in the .203" notches I cut it just makes the notch longer :eek:

Need to get a REALLY cutting surface made. Was thinking about using a 30" hollow core door with a sacrificial surface in top. Would have to support the door as the distance between front and back is 48" (or use 2 30" door side by side cut down to 48")

paulC
04-30-2006, 06:33 PM
Over cutting works on wide notches but in the .203" notches I cut it just makes the notch longer :eek:



Try switching to cutting a small T at the end rather than running away at a 45 degree angle. You should be able to use that to make your notch an exact depth.
Paul

randyf1965
05-01-2006, 12:00 AM
So I would have to draw it like that? or mod the g-code by hand

paulC
05-01-2006, 05:23 PM
So I would have to draw it like that? or mod the g-code by hand
Yes. I don't know of any other way to do it.

ger21
05-01-2006, 08:30 PM
I draw the "T" as well in all my parts. If you're using cutter comp, make sure the notches are a little bit bigger than the tool diameter.

randyf1965
05-03-2006, 12:09 PM
I cut a pocket in a piece of wood I clamped to my temp table so I would have a flat surface to cut so smaller pieces on. Pocket is 7.5" x 34" and with a 1/8" bit took 4.25 hours! Need to get some larger bits....

Does anyone make heatsinks for steppers? My x-axis got very hot during that time, I strapped a large heatsink I had laying around on it to help cool it

sdantonio
05-03-2006, 01:04 PM
Here is an example of how I cut the interlocking pieces, at the iner corners you can offset the route, that way when the pieces are put together and they mate with both pieces having the flat spots.

Joe

In my case I just nip out the little corners on the band saw. makes for a bit more work, but also gives tighter prettier corners that no one but me will ever see anyway sinve their burried inside the tortion boxes.

Steven

joecnc2006
05-03-2006, 02:20 PM
I cut a pocket in a piece of wood I clamped to my temp table so I would have a flat surface to cut so smaller pieces on. Pocket is 7.5" x 34" and with a 1/8" bit took 4.25 hours! Need to get some larger bits....

Does anyone make heatsinks for steppers? My x-axis got very hot during that time, I strapped a large heatsink I had laying around on it to help cool it


Steppers are rated at almost 210°F without harm, so you should not have a problem, But Yes I have Thought about making some Wrap around heatsinks with a fan.

Joe

randyf1965
05-03-2006, 03:35 PM
I don't think it was that hot, but hotter than I wanted to hold on to for more than a 1sec or two.

Will have to cut some foam patterns and pour something out of aluminum, if it EVER stops raining around here. Or I could try machining them from a chunk of aluminum. Was figuring 4 parts clamped around the motor.

joecnc2006
05-03-2006, 03:50 PM
I don't think it was that hot, but hotter than I wanted to hold on to for more than a 1sec or two.

Will have to cut some foam patterns and pour something out of aluminum, if it EVER stops raining around here. Or I could try machining them from a chunk of aluminum. Was figuring 4 parts clamped around the motor.

Just use 4 heatsinks from CPU proccessors some are pretty large, and then just a 80mm fan on the end blowing across all 4.

Joe

randyf1965
05-03-2006, 04:29 PM
problem is I don't have 12 of them... but I have aluminum ingots I could cast into them... Wonder if I could greensand cast an existing heatsink

sdantonio
05-03-2006, 04:39 PM
You don't think just the fan alone would be enough?

And as you also said. a bigger bit would do wonderful things to speed up the process.

randyf1965
05-03-2006, 04:43 PM
Just didn't want to add all that noise with 3 fan blowing :D

randyf1965
05-20-2006, 10:25 AM
My new X-axis torsion box is almost complete. I have the front skins cut but not attached, need to get the threaded rod thru it first... at least 1 piece to make sure I can get the rest thru (4 total to attach it).

The 1st picture shows the whole gantry 66"x9"x3". Each 33" section is capped with 3/4" mdf ribs.

2nd shows 1/2 of the gantry 33"x9"x3"

3rd shows a close up of the gantry torsion box. half lap joints ~1.5"x3" boxes are formed by the vertical and horizontal ribs ( loads more accurate than the torsion box I cut by hand)

groverdog
05-23-2006, 12:56 PM
Randy, I'm just starting my first diy cnc. Was wondering if you ever found a source for acme threaded rod in Chicago's SW suburbs.. I'm in Joliet, myself. I think I found a source on the southside, but gas prices being what they are, ordering/shipping would probably be cheaper.

groverdog

randyf1965
06-05-2006, 07:57 PM
Been busy working, yard, work , etc so haven't had much build time.... but working on the design for my new table torsion box. They will be 1/4" mdf glued and nailed (when possible).

I want to make it in sections 22" deep by 30.5" wide by 6.25" (without skins). The pipe rails are 1-1/4" black pipe (because I already have 2 of them) with 3.38" on center giving ~5" from the top of the upper rail to the bottom of the lower rail.

My initial plans are for 4 sections bolted together to form a 44" x 61" cutting surface and to make it easier to expand in the future to 96" x 61" (make 6 more sections remove rails and the end bolt on the new sections add new rails put the end back in place but will have to look at the drive train at that point 8' of whipping leadscrew....maybe a spinning nut)

1st picture is 1 of the sections the large hole in the middle of the torsion box are for 3/8" threaded rob to tie the whol thing together. smaller holes above and below are for 1/4" bolts to tie the sections together.

2nd picture is 4 sections connected together, it will be skinned with 1/4" plywood on the bottom and 3/4" mdf on the top (possible 1/2" mdf with a 1/4" of something CHEAP)

joecnc2006
06-06-2006, 03:21 AM
Altho you have several Bolt holes to bolt it together, you may want to consider stagering the joints, but this will need more planning to work with your future expansion.

Joe

randyf1965
06-13-2006, 07:12 PM
So I staggered the joints, the red pieces are plates covering the joints. 44"x58.91"x6.25"

joecnc2006
06-13-2006, 08:35 PM
Looks better to me, just need to make sure the pieces are on a perfect level when assembling.

randyf1965
06-14-2006, 08:29 AM
I was thinking of adding a hole thru the short length for two 3/4" pieces of pipe/rod to help in the alignment of the sections.

Figure I would use the 1/2" top as an assembly table then use a 1/4" piece of hardboard on top of theat as a sacrifical cutting surface that I would surface to be perfectly level.

phillby
06-14-2006, 07:32 PM
I have been thinking along the lines of surfacing the table but am not happy with with the surface that will be left.

My solution is to surface a piece of MDF so it is parallel to the router ( isn't that why I'm surfacing it any way) then using thin MDF or hardboard on top of that which will still have a decent factory surface on it. OK I know it will then be the sacrificial board but the bits that haven't been cut into will be even and smooth. My thinking is that manufactured boards (MDF) are made to very close tollerences in thickness and surface flatness.

Wat ya think.

joecnc2006
06-14-2006, 07:42 PM
why not just mill the ribs prior to placement of the top piece this will be less surface to mill and will be level with machine when finished.

phillby
06-15-2006, 06:39 PM
Joe yuur idea is good but the surface of the torsion box in my Jgro has sag in it and is all glued and nailed tohether so I hope to fix all this by skimming the surface. I have stabilised it and even leveled it somewhat by jack screws but would like it better.

Cheers

randyf1965
07-06-2007, 11:06 PM
Having issues with my picstep's again. Same issue as before ... smooth running 1 direction rough the other. I have not changed anything in the electronics . I tried programming new pics back to V1.0 same issue. swapped the wires to the stepper 1 pair at a time, same issue.

Sounding like a power supply issue.... using 3 PC power supplies but why would it only affect 1 direction.

I have the stepper off the router. It spins smooth 1 direction then I switch to the other and it starts stuttering then locks.

randyf1965
07-10-2007, 10:05 PM
Using 3 ATX PC power supplies daisy chained together.

If I move both x & y at the same time I can run back and forth with no problems.

If I stop either axis the other will continue to move but lock up at some point (usually within 1-5 seconds).

If I turn the last power supply in the chain OFF I can move one axis for 5-10 seconds before locking up.

I have tried putting a load on the 3 supplies (used to OLD MFM hard drives, they just keep spinning) and had the same problem.

I read if you don't have a load on the 5v line the current output on the 12v lines is not very high.

Anyone seen this? I have not tried removing my BOB from the circuit..... will try that tomorrow

randyf1965
07-14-2007, 10:44 PM
Problem turned out to be a ground issue on the BOB. I killed the 7805 feeding 12v to it (which it should take) and while I was troubleshooting it I noticed that the plane on the step mode jumpers was not a ground. A quick ground to one of the terminals fix the problem.



Onward and upward....

Anyone compiled a HOWTO on aligning a router?