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View Full Version : Joe's CNC Router the beginning for testing



joecnc2006
02-13-2005, 09:51 PM
I thought i would start a plog to show my router if ideas i have learned from your guys here at CNCZone ( One of the Best Sites for info and help ).

I have three 5.2v, 1.4a, 1/8 steppers (6 wire). Will be ordering the hobbycnc 3 axis board, as mentioned and suggested by the admin here. (thanks again)

I will be incorporating several of you guys ideas into my router hope you don't mind.

here are my motors and the start of my router.

Also can someone please let me know how i can test and spin my motors to test the router out, while i wait for my controllor board.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks, Joe

chuckknigh
02-13-2005, 11:25 PM
Figure out the pairings and run some voltage through them? That's all the driver boards would do, anyway...

-- Chuck Knight

Hobbiest
02-14-2005, 02:38 AM
nice looking machine.

Hawkeye
02-14-2005, 07:54 AM
Joe,
Looks like a great start. I like the straight forward approch to your machine. Hope to be there soon. I've got all of the electronics done now just have to build the Dang machine....LOL.

George

JFettig
02-14-2005, 08:30 AM
one thing you could do is connect each color to another motor, make sure all the wires are paird exactly and spin one motor, the other should spin if done correctly.

Jon

joecnc2006
02-14-2005, 10:13 AM
one thing you could do is connect each color to another motor, make sure all the wires are paird exactly and spin one motor, the other should spin if done correctly.

Jon

anyway of doing a small diagram, how the wires hookeup to power
(6 wires)

ViperTX
02-14-2005, 10:51 AM
These are steppers they require a sequence, which you could try to manually imitate...well not so manually.....just wait for your controller.

Ferenczyg
02-14-2005, 11:10 AM
Believe me, without controller is difficult to spintest a stepper. You need a step source, direction source, voltage source... too complicated.

If what you want is testing the router mechanics, the easiest way is using a cordless driver attached to every axe where the steppers will attach later.

/F

joecnc2006
02-15-2005, 12:07 AM
I ordered the 3axis board today from hobbycnc, Trying to get the machine ready within the next few days.

Here is the Gantry finished with z axis done also, there apears to be very little play in the unit, which i am happy about.

I am making it as small and light as possible, because i'm using the famous HP Laser Jet steppers, as shown above.

joecnc2006
02-15-2005, 12:40 AM
i will use this cordless dremel for testing the machine and see how it runs, its rated at 4.8v switchable in two modes from 5,000rpm to 10,000rpm, however i connected a universal adapter ranging from 1.5v to 12v. to see what would happen and here is how the test went.

4.5v - pretty much the same as if it was running on the supplied battery
6v - i would guess about 15,000 rpm
9v maybe 20,000
and 12v runreal fast maybe 30,000rpm but i have no clue actually.

So in short maybe it will work out for a temporary cutter and is very quiet compared to a 120v dremel.

Kammo1
02-15-2005, 09:38 AM
Hey Joe, (sounds like a famous song) bro that looks like a simple but yet perfect machine that I am looking to build and it has given me the confidence to make a start on mine. Please post some pics of it fully working and let us know if there are any points that you would improve on and I am sure that we could all learn something along the way. Also does anyone know where I can buy the plastic material that you made the bearing blocks from in here in the UK??????? Kammo1

JSCB
02-15-2005, 09:45 AM
Joe,
How did you connect the universal adapter to your cordless Dremel?
I have one and the battery pack is dead so it is collecting dust.
I noticed that the pack has four contacts and was just wondering how your wired it.
JSCB

joecnc2006
02-15-2005, 10:02 AM
Yes, you can take it apart with two screws on the side, then remove the contact housing that you see under the battery, about 6-8 contacts on it then you will see the top of the motor, which has two contacts that you can solder your wires to, just make sure you test which way it spins when you touch the wires to it., then just put it back together and your done.

I will be cutting a block to fit on the inside where the battery goes then drill holes through it for mounting should be real fast and easy.

JSCB
02-15-2005, 10:09 AM
Thanks,
I was debating on what to do with it. I have a universal adapter that I can use so, I'm all set.
Thanks again,
JSCB

CNCRob
02-15-2005, 05:03 PM
I really like your machine, Whats the cutting area of it?

joecnc2006
02-15-2005, 11:21 PM
I really like your machine, Whats the cutting area of it?

Thanks cncrob,

the foot print is 24x36 and im guessing the cutting area to be about 17"x26" hard to pinpoint without it being complete and no controller board yet.

OK, I decided to do away with the UHMW linier bearings i made and went with rollor bearings, not every single axis of the machine slides very easy with hardly any play at all. (picture to follow) I should be getting the board kit from hobby cnc maybe within 3 days from now. the machine is ready for testing as soon as i get that and install the dremel and top deck.

Dogsione
02-16-2005, 11:42 AM
Joe,

Wonderful job so far!

I'm curious about the gantry bearings. I looks from your photos that you have two bearings on top of the pipe, resting by gravity. Without a bearing underneath, are you concerned about the gantry tipping or rocking and it moves back and forth. I guess the leadscrew will hold it up...

I'm less familiar with gantry routers and their conventions, so I could be totally off my rocker...

Good luck,

joecnc2006
02-16-2005, 01:25 PM
Joe,

Wonderful job so far!

I'm curious about the gantry bearings. I looks from your photos that you have two bearings on top of the pipe, resting by gravity. Without a bearing underneath, are you concerned about the gantry tipping or rocking and it moves back and forth. I guess the leadscrew will hold it up...

I'm less familiar with gantry routers and their conventions, so I could be totally off my rocker...

Good luck,

Thanks, The Lead screw seems to hold it well, but like everything else real world test will tell. :) I am thinking of using this machine to only carve wood and plastic materials, no metal cutting (well not much atleast) And also use this machine to build a better CNC Router, and so on, maybe the 3rd or 4th generation will be the ultimate one, Wait you always think of ways to improve it its an ongoing experiance.

joecnc2006
02-16-2005, 10:16 PM
Joe,

Wonderful job so far!

I'm curious about the gantry bearings. I looks from your photos that you have two bearings on top of the pipe, resting by gravity. Without a bearing underneath, are you concerned about the gantry tipping or rocking and it moves back and forth. I guess the leadscrew will hold it up...

I'm less familiar with gantry routers and their conventions, so I could be totally off my rocker...

Good luck,

OK after thinking about it a little bit (1 min. i decided to add a UHMW block cut the same dia. as the pipe to keep it from moving up for sure.... better to be safe than sorry right?

Thanks, Joe

joecnc2006
02-18-2005, 11:27 PM
small UHNW to help gantry stay on tract.

joecnc2006
02-18-2005, 11:34 PM
ok got home and less than 20 mins the mail man cam with a package.

My HobbyCNC 3 axis Board, took it out and looked at all the parts, layed them out in order then started putting it together. The whole process too less than an hour and 1/2 and thats with me taking my time.

When i got it together i imediantly went and took my motors off of my machine, and hooked them up, and then hooked it up to me laptop used Kcam, set pinouts, and loaded a file, it went through the whole proccess (air cut) without a hitch.

I have to Thanks Dave from Hobby CNC for the great kit and products they have. "Thanks again Dave" ! ! ! ! ! !

So if you do not have a board motors or any kit yet and you are debating what to get, Well you know my responce, HOBBYCNC for sure.

here is a pic of motors hooked to finished board.

Dogsione
02-19-2005, 01:19 PM
Looking good, Joe! Can't wait to see your first cuts.

joecnc2006
02-19-2005, 11:09 PM
Got it all wired up and it moves just like its supose to, all i need to do not is add the dremel and the decking, then its on to cutting....

Heres what it looks like for now, with computer hooked up and running it.

joecnc2006
02-20-2005, 06:07 PM
I got it all done today, Finished the decking, wireing, and mounterd the dremel, (Oh yea i tried the battery power dremel, but does not have enough power to cut)....

Here is it all finished, also have the HObbyCNC board mounted with a 120mm fan blowing on it to make sure it stays cool. I just need something to cut now...

lurch
02-20-2005, 10:59 PM
What is the Gantry made of???

Catapultsup
02-24-2005, 10:58 PM
Hey Joe like your work If you dont mind, I'm going to use some of your ideas when I finally build mine

ps I'm also on another DIY forum (Sean) that we both share an interest in.

joecnc2006
02-25-2005, 12:49 AM
What is the Gantry made of???

Its just painted wood.

lurch
02-25-2005, 02:46 AM
If you are done with tuning, I'm curious about the results. How is it moving? Any racking, or binding? Have you cut anything on it yet? I should be done with inital setup of mine within the next two weeks. I'll posts pictures and results when I have something for everyone. Though my design is a jgro knockoff, with some modifications. I'm afraid it doesn't look as clean as your design. Have fun with that setup, but do keep us up to date for a bit longer. It's really encouraging to see these projects coming out so well.....!!

joecnc2006
02-26-2005, 01:50 AM
ok, i was not happy with the movement the machine had so i reconstructed the unit with all bearings, changed out all horizontal rails to gas pipe, Now the machine is very solid and smooth movement.

Here is a couple of pics i took real quick.

joecnc2006
03-05-2005, 10:11 PM
OK this is the final look of the machine, I will take upper section apart and pain when i get a chance. having to much fun now to do that.. lol. And my 1st cuts, the 3d was a 1st atempt, i used a v bit instead of a ball bit, and did not do the file correctly, but atleast i can see an image for a 1st try. and also my name JOE...

lurch
03-06-2005, 01:30 AM
Great Job Joe!! Congratulations on a new runner! How long before you think you'll be planning #2??

TinkerDJ
03-06-2005, 01:47 AM
Very nice. I like how you used the bearings on your z axis.

joecnc2006
03-06-2005, 01:53 AM
Great Job Joe!! Congratulations on a new runner! How long before you think you'll be planning #2??

I already have ideas in my head for the next one. Maybe i should sell this one to generate revenue for it... LOL

joecnc2006
03-06-2005, 10:49 PM
just a couple of pics of cuts. running at f20 12in/min i think.

chuckknigh
03-07-2005, 01:21 AM
Obviously another good Texan. I'm north of Dallas...where are you?

-- Chuck Knight

joecnc2006
03-07-2005, 02:12 AM
Obviously another good Texan. I'm north of Dallas...where are you?

-- Chuck Knight

San Antonio

ger21
03-07-2005, 07:13 AM
f20 should be 20"/minute

alexg
03-07-2005, 09:32 PM
Hi, Joe

How did you align the rails ?? I saw that you took off the alignment blocks ! Your design looks great and simple.. Please tell us more..

How did you align the whole thing ? Paralelism, coplanarity, etc...

Best regards,
Alexandre Guimaraes

joecnc2006
03-08-2005, 12:43 AM
the bottom rails fit tight inside if the holes i drilled, so i did not have to adjust them, the gantry rails i measured up from the deck on both ends up to the lower rail and from the back of the gantry to the rail, then when that was placed i measured between rails at both ends and from back of gantry same as bottom rails, placed screws for spacers so the rails would not move, as you can see in the cuts in previous posts it works well.

alexg
03-08-2005, 09:41 AM
the bottom rails fit tight inside if the holes i drilled, so i did not have to adjust them, the gantry rails i measured up from the deck on both ends up to the lower rail and from the back of the gantry to the rail, then when that was placed i measured between rails at both ends and from back of gantry same as bottom rails, placed screws for spacers so the rails would not move, as you can see in the cuts in previous posts it works well.

Sorry to disturb, but experience is better asked than acquired the hard way :bat:

The bottom rails you drilled both sides at once ? Was that enough for aligning the rails ??!! I see so many people having such a hard time aligning the ways... That is a surprise.

Could you get us some more pictures of the details ? You got me really interested in finally trying to build a wood router....

The results seem to be great... Congratulations...

Best regards,
Alexandre Guimaraes

joecnc2006
03-18-2005, 01:07 AM
Here is a video of it in action..... All comments are welcome.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC/joe-cnc%20new.wmv

hadjcues
03-18-2005, 01:32 AM
Very nice joe... great work!
What kind of kit did you get from hobbycnc? I'm planning to make something very similar to what you did... How much for the cost?

Thanks,

Hadj

joecnc2006
03-18-2005, 01:51 AM
I got the Hobbycnc 3axis board, I would recomend it, works very well, i got the machine running on 35v 8a now with three 12v PSU wired in series with floating ground. the bobbyCNC board is shown previous in this thread.
http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC/joe-cnc%20new.wmv

Ursine
03-18-2005, 12:03 PM
Joe,

Nice, simple clean design. I'm opting for a smaller footprint also. Are you using a tapped Delrin block for your leadscrew nut. Your picture shows a flattened washer infront of the block, so I can't tell. Also, what size lead is that, 1/2-10?


Thanks,

Dave

joecnc2006
03-18-2005, 12:32 PM
I actualy, cut the UHMW out and placed a 1/2" nut inside and washed keeps it from moving, the screw is 1/2" 13tpi.

Ursine
03-18-2005, 01:28 PM
How did you couple the lead screw to the stepper?

Dave

joecnc2006
03-18-2005, 02:26 PM
I used a rubber fuel line hose, cut a V on the stepper end then clamped it down, here is a quick sketch i did.

Hope it helps.

hadjcues
03-18-2005, 05:34 PM
If I were to use a 5/8" or 3/4" leadscrew, what TPI would be optimal for this?

Any other method to couple the leadscrew to the stepper motor?

Thanks,

hadj

TinkerDJ
03-19-2005, 02:12 AM
You can get 1/2 by 10tpi acme rod from ENCO. Here's there web site. Hope this helps with what your looking at. If you want to get real extreme for lead screws a good machine shop can make you one with nuts down to 1 tpi. Just a matter of what your looking to spend.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK32?PARTPG=INSRAR2

I have the same setup to connect my motors to my leads screws with some air hose and it works well, actually i haven't had many problems since going to that.

boxwood
04-03-2005, 01:01 PM
hey how about a schematic of the 3 12v Power Supplies Please

joecnc2006
04-05-2005, 11:09 PM
hey how about a schematic of the 3 12v Power Supplies Please

I will see what i can come up with, but basically you remove ground from 2nd and third powersupply, then you connect one black ground from 1st PSU to yellow 12v on 2nd PSU, then one Black ground from 2nd PSU to Yellow 12v on 3rd PSU, Now connect a tester to Yellow 12v from 1st PSU to black ground on 3rd PSu and you should have almost tripple the voltage of the units, and also the amp output is what the lowest out of all three. (its like connecting three 1.5v batteries in a row, and having 4.5v) hope that helps

joecnc2006
04-06-2005, 01:19 AM
Made some adjustment blocks, came out really good made from UHMW. here's a pic of them. i have access to suplies to make some more if anyone needs any of these let me know you can message me.

joecnc2006
04-06-2005, 09:48 PM
I was thinking since we make the Adjustment blocks anyway why not Use one to hold a bearing for the leadscrew just like we hold the gas pipe.

Here it is in SW and also a Picture of it being used (Oops did i spill the beans and say I'm building a larger machine now?)

rpage
04-07-2005, 02:53 PM
joe2000che,

can not seem to download you video. looks like a nice build you have there. :)

joecnc2006
04-07-2005, 05:08 PM
joe2000che,

can not seem to download you video. looks like a nice build you have there. :)

OK try now, I must have accidently deleted it from site by mistake. Sorry bout that.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC/joe-cnc%20new.wmv

rpage
04-07-2005, 05:29 PM
that did the trick! thanks!

WP1
04-07-2005, 07:02 PM
With that adjustment block for the leadscrew, how will you support the axial load on the leadscrew? Is this only on one end of the leadscrew?

By having both pipe rails adjustable you can adjust the entire axis around the leadscrew.


Pete C.

joecnc2006
04-10-2005, 01:30 AM
With that adjustment block for the leadscrew, how will you support the axial load on the leadscrew? Is this only on one end of the leadscrew?

By having both pipe rails adjustable you can adjust the entire axis around the leadscrew.


Pete C.

It acts like an adjustable bearing block, and just place a nut on each.

Personally i would adjust the leadscrew around my axis, because the axis will need to be setup and square 1st IMO.

WP1
04-10-2005, 09:48 AM
Ok, I'm still missing something. Unless you have the facilities to cut dimples into the hardened outer race of the bearing how does it take axial load? All I see is radial support from the picture.

The pipe rails don't need much axis support since the bearings ride along them. The leadscrew however is doing the push/pull thing and needs solid axial support on at least one end otherwise you'll have tons of backlash.

I can see using a rigid bearing mount on one end of the leadscrew and an adjustable mount on the other end. The "rigid" mount could still be adjustable if you were to make the mounting holes in a bearing block oversized, but it would be fixed axially.

Pete C.

signIT
04-11-2005, 02:39 AM
Hi, joe2000che

I was very happy to se that your steppers are just like my Astrosyn Minebea my problem is to identify the cables my steppers has eight wires black/blckwht red/redwht org/orgwht and grn/grnwht, can you tell me how to connect those wires together so I it will be two coils with four wires.

SighnIT

HacknHew
04-14-2005, 12:32 AM
Yo, Joe........
Your machine is very similar to the one I'm building. Mine uses MDF for most of the structural stuff, and 3/4" hard maple for the parts that, if I had the capability, would be machined aluminum. I've gone the mid-to-high-dollar route on the linear components..... (HiWins on the x-axis, THK's on the y, and linear ball bearings riding 1/2" Thomson shafting on the z.) Belt-driven Acme lead screws will drive everything. (I think McMaster-Carr has me listed as a "Gold Card" member....Hee-hee) My design approach has been to make everything as friction-free as possible, within a reasonable budget. I bought the Stepperworld hi-torque set-up that uses 80 oz. motors, and I'm wondering if they're gonna be strong enough. I'm no mechanical engineer, but realize that the required torque is dependent on the mass of whatever you're trying to move, the coefficient of friction, belt drive ratios, etc.
Anyway, what's the torque ratings on your steppers?

joecnc2006
04-14-2005, 09:58 AM
5v 1.4a 100oz steppers. the 80 oz is a little low but i do not know the size of your machine.

HomeCNC
04-14-2005, 11:34 AM
Joe, I finaly found your router post! Nice work! Now you can cut a Haas projector box if you want :D

joecnc2006
04-14-2005, 02:20 PM
check out my new one i'm making now, I took the jrco plan and redrew everything in solidworks (well except for the bolts and misc. hardware, But i revamped it, to a footprint of 36"x60" this is what i have thus far, maybe you guys can check it out and let me know what ya thing?

Thanks, Joe

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/cnc