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View Full Version : What's the peg in the middle of the X-axis?



MechanoMan
04-19-2009, 02:16 AM
On the Taig. Right in front of the X-axis, in the middle of the metal which connects the X and Y axis, there's a vertical metal peg.

What's it there for??

Hirudin
04-19-2009, 04:05 AM
I've been wondering about that thing since I got my Taig too.

fretsman
04-19-2009, 08:25 AM
I asked this a long time ago and was told it was a "stop" for the X axis and you would have adjustable blocks that would go into the dovetails on the X axis table that you could set for repeatable stop points. Much like a Bridgeport mill has.

Dave

MechanoMan
04-20-2009, 01:06 AM
I figured it was probably for home/limit switches or to physically keep the axis from running off the nut.

Well, I've got a piece of stock that will only fit if it hangs off the table, and it's in my way, so it's off to storage for now.

MechanoMan
04-20-2009, 04:19 AM
I give up... how does it come out??

The X-axis gib locking screw is nearby, and it looked like it went through the post, but no the post doesn't go that far down.

The post has no Allen cap or flat side to grab with a wrench. It's a perfect, plain cylinder. Lack of any way to screw it in or out tends to contradict the idea of it being threaded in, since they would have trouble installing it. In fact, there's no more than 3.6mm of depth possible before it would intersect the X-axis gib locking screw hole, which it doesn't seem to intersect at all. The post is 9.6mm dia so that would barely be any any thread at all.

It's not my style to just start grabbing at mill parts with Vice grip pliers or cutting a slot in the top without knowing knowing for sure what the plan is. That post serves no function in my current setup and it's got to go to be able to mount the stock the way I need to right now.

If they pressed it in with an arbor press, that would be "unfortunate" for my plans. Even nonremovable locktite may be a problem.

Hirudin
04-20-2009, 04:35 AM
Heh, I half heartedly tried to take it out a couple times too. When it didn't come willingly I gave up pretty quickly.

If I needed it out of there I would probably attack it with some pliers, but that's just me.

macdarren
04-20-2009, 02:05 PM
I have read several places that the post is a leftover part that as shipped serves no purpose. I suppose it could be used as a stop as suggested and that is one of the uses I have heard for it's original purpose.

Personally I pulled mine out and used that location for my limit switch.
My mill is only about a month old and what I found was that the hex bolt through it is quite long and seemed to have a little loctite on it but it came out with no difficulty. To get the actual post out I milled a flat on it and then pulled it with vice grips...so I basically destroyed it the part but it is just a simple round post with a hole (it is quite longer than it first looks) so I figure
if I needed to replace it it should not be too hard.

fretsman
04-20-2009, 02:26 PM
I just milled mine flat...... :)

macdarren
04-20-2009, 02:36 PM
Just curious, what is that air setup for?

fretsman
04-20-2009, 02:54 PM
It's actually a vac setup and it holds parts while I engrave them-

Dave

MechanoMan
05-05-2009, 04:52 PM
OK I spoke with TaigTools today and remembered to mention this.

The post DOES go through the X-axis gib tightening thread area, in fact it IS the X-axis gib tightening thread area. The XY saddle is aluminum which may strip out so they dropped this steel post in there and drilled/tapped the threads through the aluminum and steel together.

By removing the gib screw pinning it in place and hammering it out from below, the post may or may not come out. IIRC he said some were pressfit differently than others. But once it's out you'd probably never get it hammered back in at the exact rotation and depth to align its tapped threads with the threads tapped in the XY saddle. And without its steel threads in there, the threads in the XY saddle alone are not enough and may strip out leaving the X-gib loose.

You can of course grind it down, but then there will be nothing to use as a limit switch post if you decide to install them later.

fretsman
05-05-2009, 05:07 PM
Yep, I remember when I was fooling with it, tightening up the screw that's perpendicular to the post, also tightens the X axis.

Interesting to know the info you heard from them. It's a shame they don't make a better "owners manual".

Dave

macdarren
05-05-2009, 06:02 PM
dang, and I pulled mine...

I am thinking I can probably turn in down very slightly and get it back in.
I was planning on making a limit switch platform that went in where the post came
out anyway but getting that thread alignment right would not be easy, didn't think about the saddle having threads but it is obvious it does... instead I'll use the original post if possible or I stick with my external bracket and make it out of steel for that extra thread strength.

MechanoMan
05-05-2009, 07:33 PM
Well I did think about it and.. technically, if you were to drill out the aluminum saddle's threads, there would be no requirement for fine-tuned alignment. But the screw on the far side of the post may bend under compression because there's no thread supporting it. And you may not get the post aligned pointing dead into the gib. It'd be a rather "controversial" strategy.

Hey, you could maybe cool it with dry ice enough that it shrinks and you can drop it right in without a hammer, and thread the X-axis gib screw in to position it before it warms up and locks itself into position.

MechanoMan
05-05-2009, 08:57 PM
Wait, I made a mistake. I was thinking of that as the gib adjustment, but it's the gib LOCKING screw- which very few people use in a CNC system. The gib adjustments remain operational even if you leave the screw out, so it probably won't ever matter if you never bother to put the post back into its place.

fretsman
05-06-2009, 05:00 AM
Oh, that was what I thought you were trying to say - ;)

Dave

bill-the-cat
06-17-2009, 06:06 PM
After reading the whole thread, I'm a little confused. Is it OK to remove the post or not?

If it is OK to remove, how is it removed? Before searching for this thread, I tried clamping a vise grip on it and it wouldn't budge. Heating it maybe?

bill-the-cat
06-17-2009, 06:41 PM
I couldn't wait, so I called Taig Tools and talked to Cliff. What a great guy!

Anyway, although it's OK to remove it, it would leave a hole that would allow chips to fall down on the lead screw. Also, it's press fit, so you'd probably have to remove the saddle and pound it out from the back side. For those reasons, it's better to just cut the post off flush rather than remove it.