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bkboggy
02-15-2009, 07:58 PM
So, I finally got Joe's '06 kit and, eventhough a bit scared, will probably do it myself because it's more fun that way. If something goes wrong I'll probably bug Kent, lol

One question I have so far:

Why is the torsion box offset to the left? The cutouts that hold pipes on the right are longer than the ones on the left.



Glueing things together. The DWG files are very self-explanatory after I studied them. I'll post pictures soon.


-BK


Edit: Just noticed that on R-2 plans the torsion box is flipped the other way, any reason for that? The left side is longer then the right (pipe holder things).

Edit#2: It seems that both plans are named R-2, one has more of the pipe holders on the right and one has them on the left. I assume I want them on the left because the box to the right (on the gantry assembly) is offesting the torsion box. So having the longer holders on the left will put it in the middle. Am I right?

calgrdnr
02-15-2009, 08:48 PM
Bogdan,

Sent you an Email .. Make sure to dry fit everything.. take plenty of pictures. Have fun ... You can come by anytime look at mine and will always try to answer all your questions and help when ever I can

Kent

bkboggy
02-15-2009, 10:46 PM
Thanks, Kent. Hope you get better soon.


-BK

bkboggy
02-16-2009, 02:32 AM
Did any of you guys apply any sort of glue for hdpe or just bolted it on without any adheseve? I'm using Probond to glue MDF.

joecnc2006
02-16-2009, 03:07 AM
Yes having the torsion box off centered makes up the difference of the Bearing Block Housing and centers it within the Gantry.

bkboggy
02-18-2009, 02:15 AM
Makes sense.

Hey, I'm confused on the aluminum angles required for the tracks. Manual says: 1-1/4"x1-1/4"x1/8" Aluminum When I went to the store they looked at me like deer in the headlights..... I'm a newbie, so I don't understand those dimensions and could not explain it to them.


Also, HDPE did not have holes in the places where one would screw in bolts... Do I have to drill and tap them?

chester1957
02-18-2009, 08:26 AM
[QUOTE=bkboggy;569076]Makes sense.

Hey, I'm confused on the aluminum angles required for the tracks. Manual says: 1-1/4"x1-1/4"x1/8" Aluminum When I went to the store they looked at me like deer in the headlights..... I'm a newbie, so I don't understand those dimensions and could not explain it to them. QUOTE]

The legs of the angle would be 1 1/4" long outside and the thickness of the materials legs would be 1/8"

Weldtutor
02-18-2009, 09:18 AM
I'm confused on the aluminum angles required for the tracks. Manual says: 1-1/4"x1-1/4"x1/8"

The attached picture should help with the angle size information.

Same as chester1957 mentioned above, it is LEG X LEG X THICKNESS.

I hope your build is fun for you.

bkboggy
02-18-2009, 11:21 AM
Thank you, Weldtutor and chester1957, that makes sense. :)

bkboggy
02-21-2009, 04:11 AM
So, the HDPE that came in the kit has holes only for leadscrew and not the bolts. Do I just drill and tap them or how do I go about it?

bkboggy
02-22-2009, 01:07 AM
Also, I am having issues finding the 1.25x1.25 aluminum angles. Every place has 1 and 1.5, but no 1.25..... Where did you guys get yours?

By the way, I am wondering, how come it says to use 3/4" drill rods on Z-Axis? The Y-Axis galvanized pips are 3/4" as well, how come no one uses those on Z-Axis?

Glidergider
02-22-2009, 12:53 PM
boggy,
I get all my metals from Speedy Metal on the net.
https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2182-8344-1-14-x-1-14-angle-6061-t6-aluminum-extruded.aspx

Great price, fast shipping and great selection.
Dave

bkboggy
02-22-2009, 04:55 PM
Thanks, Dave. :)

NIL8r
02-23-2009, 01:05 PM
Also, I am having issues finding the 1.25x1.25 aluminum angles. Every place has 1 and 1.5, but no 1.25..... Where did you guys get yours?

By the way, I am wondering, how come it says to use 3/4" drill rods on Z-Axis? The Y-Axis galvanized pips are 3/4" as well, how come no one uses those on Z-Axis?

BK,

The pipes are 3/4", but that is on the inside diameter (ID)of the pipe. The 3/4" drill rod measures 3/4" on the outside diameter (OD). The drill rod is solid. If a solid rod was used for the Y axis, the machine would be nearly twice as heavy as it is now. Also, unlike the pipes, the finish on drill rod is preground.

Hope this helps.

bkboggy
02-23-2009, 04:56 PM
Makes sense, thanks.

Sorry for not having any pictures yet, guys. I've been a bit busy so didn't have much time to work on my machine. Most of the things are glued together and in two weeks (when I get to go over there again) I'll be able to paint and assemble everything. So, in two weeks this thing should be put together, except the electronic components.


Question: How do I install the dumpstercnc stuff?

bkboggy
02-24-2009, 02:22 AM
And, also, since I got everything you can get for Joe's 2006 from dumpstercnc, do I still need to use those HDPE small pieces (smaller anti-backlash blocks) that fit acme nuts in them, since I won't be using those acme nuts?

bkboggy
02-24-2009, 02:50 AM
Well, looks like I found the answer to my question.

http://cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=294086&postcount=30

I can see how anti-backlash nut is installed, couplers are pretty self-explanatory (joins motor and the acme screw) and those clamps go on the other side and hold the spring under tension. Just instead of a nut on the other side of the spring, I'll put a washer, so that it doesn't restrain the spring from putting tension on the screw.

Did I get it right?

What size bolts do you guys use on the dumpster cnc nuts?

bkboggy
03-01-2009, 11:21 PM
Alright, just ordered everything for a computer to be built. Also ordered gecko 540, KL23H276-28-4B (2 motors), KL23H284-35-4B (1 motor), KL-350-48 power supply, E-Stop switch, 6 limit switches (from keling) and 6 home switches (the one on ebay come 6 in a pack). Waiting for the offer to be approved for the servo wire and that'll be pretty much it.

All the bearings came in on Thursday and I found a metal shop in the area that will cut proper size drill rods and aluminum angles (maybe they'll even drill me the holes... hmmm, gotta ask).

Also found the place that sells all kinds of MDF (top and bottom of the torsion box), since Home Depot and Lowe's in the area are running out of choices and both said they are not ordering any more for the time being due to the economy... whatever.

Sorry that I haven't had any pictures yet, but I promise that I will have them this coming weekend. I'll be painting and assembling stuff over in Riverside and then bring all the electronics to put together here to Lemoore. We'll see how it'll go.

-BK

bkboggy
03-10-2009, 03:26 PM
Alright, so I got some progress this weekend and I've primed all the parts. I also got all of my electronics (but, go figure, forgot them in Riverside because I was in a rush). I've also assembled a nice AMD/ASUS/ATI workstation capable of running all the 3d/cad/cam software with ease. The motherboard has a parallel port, which is awesome (hard to find new motherboards that still have that port).

In two weeks I'll paint all the parts, finish polishing of the pipes, assemble the tracks and assemble all the HDPE stuff. So, hopefully we'll have all the hardware stuff together.

As far as electronics go, I have:

Kelings motors
Kelings power supply
Gecko 540 (and the connectors it came with)
Home switches
Limit switches
EStop switch
50ft of stepper wire


So, what else do I need? What kind of wire would I use to wire those things together (except the obvious stepper wire for the motors)?

AJ Negvesky
03-10-2009, 09:06 PM
looks clean did you cut them out with another CNC router.

troach
03-10-2009, 10:26 PM
i used wire from home depot that i think was for video but it worked out good when it was only 40Cents a foot

bkboggy
03-11-2009, 02:16 AM
AJ -- Nope, ordered Joe's '06 kit. Cheated a little bit there, but at least I knew for sure that I would get quality parts.

troach -- So, any specifications for wires? Or it can be any black + red wires? I am completely new to this, so I don't want to fry something.

Been reading the manual for 540 and from it it appears that I will need some resistors, but I'm a bit confused on their application and how they're connected. 1 through 4 are for limit switches (correct?), however..... how and where do we use the home switches? And what are home switches for? I understand the application of the limit switches, though (once again, however, would I use some regular wire for them as well? Black for one end and red for the other?).

bkboggy
03-11-2009, 02:33 AM
Just found this at geckodrive yahoo group:

Q.) What gauge wire should I use for wiring my drives?

A.) For terminals 1 and 2, the power terminals, use nothing smaller than 16 gauge wire. For all others, we recommend using 22 gauge wire.


They're talking about 201, 203 and such drives, and not the G540, however, the same basics would apply, right?

troach
03-11-2009, 04:20 AM
if you read the g540 right the resistors go across 1 and 5 i think so read carefully the pdf. and it should tell you what size you need and no the color of wire you use doesnt matter but however you do need to wire the terminals how the 540 says to. so the right advice is to study the g540 and pdf before connecting anything! g540 has a help number.

troach
03-11-2009, 04:21 AM
as for the limit switches i have not hooked ant up yet so i havnt had that experiance yet!

bkboggy
04-21-2009, 03:26 PM
Sorry for the lack of updates. I just got back from Europe and was too tired to take any pictures. I have the Z axis partially assembled and the Y axis almost complete (just have secure everything and add the iron angles on sides).

The issue that I'm having is that when I move the Z carriage box on Y axis from left to right, it gets tougher to move it the closer it get to the right side. I am thinking that maybe my pipes need a bit of sanding on that side.... It's not like it's stiff, but I don't want to put any extra strain on the motor.