PDA

View Full Version : Sherline rotary table chuck options



MechanoMan
02-02-2009, 03:06 PM
I'm looking to get my rotary table into use soon.

I think I need 2 things:
1. 4-jaw independent chuck- for gripping noncircular stock and when accurate centering is important
2. 3-jaw self-centering- for getting a basic center quickly on round stock where great accuracy is not required

I see the Sherline 1040 is the 3-jaw SC and the 1076 is the 4-jaw indy.

At what point is a tailstock necessary?

I am concerned about gripping range. I have a project needing to work down 3" UHMW stock. This lists the max possible as 2-3/4" external grip. Is there a bigger option for this? I did pick up on the fact that as the stepped jaws are extended out, there's a limiting factor where they could actually extend out of the chuck and strike the XY table when it rotates. I could always just put it on a riser block I suppose.

So right, any bigger options that fit on the Sherline table? I browsed eBay and there were some interesting ones but they had smooth inner holes, not threaded so it could screw onto the Sheline rotary table.

escott76
02-02-2009, 04:15 PM
The Taig chuck with soft jaws is a good fit on the Sherline rotary, as the two machines use the same spindle thread. With the soft jaws it's easy to grab bigger stuff. I have done I think 4" or a little more by just turning or milling the jaws to size.

vlmarshall
02-02-2009, 05:07 PM
A tailstock is useful any time you're working on material that hangs out a long way from the chuck, or is flexible enough to deflect or vibrate while cutting, or needs to be held to a close tolerance over any distance. I do about 99% of the 4th axis jobs we get at work( I love that stuff ), and use a tailstock for about half of those.

Get one, you'll need it. :D

MechanoMan
02-04-2009, 12:46 AM
How do the Taig jaws allow you to grip these things? I looked it up and it seems to have a similar capacity to the Sherline types.

escott76
02-04-2009, 01:02 AM
How do the Taig jaws allow you to grip these things? I looked it up and it seems to have a similar capacity to the Sherline types.
You bore out the jaws, as outside jaws. They are aluminum and replaceable, like $7 or so a set or you can easily make your own. Chuck up something to keep the jaws apart, yet with the chuck tightened. You can do this in the mill. Drop the mill in from the center and keep rotating the table and moving out until you reach the parts diameter. Unchuck the jaw spacer, slip in your part, tighten.
It can be done on the lathe with a boring tool as well.

MechanoMan
02-04-2009, 01:57 AM
OK, I see.
Now looking at CarterTools, I also see this as their 4-jaw independent:
http://www.cartertools.com/1030tn.jpg

As I said, I'd like to have a 4-jaw indy for square/rectangular or high precision work, and a 3-jaw self-centering for quick-and-dirty work.

The above has a different type of jaws depicted. Can it still take the soft jaws and thus be able to accommodate the larger stock with modified jaws?

There IS a 4-jaw chuck shown with soft jaws- but that's a self-centering 4-jaw.

Do these mount trouble-free on a Sherline rotary table, I guess with the thread-adapting stub that came with my Sherline?

escott76
02-05-2009, 06:40 AM
OK, I see.
Now looking at CarterTools, I also see this as their 4-jaw independent:
http://www.cartertools.com/1030tn.jpg

As I said, I'd like to have a 4-jaw indy for square/rectangular or high precision work, and a 3-jaw self-centering for quick-and-dirty work.

The above has a different type of jaws depicted. Can it still take the soft jaws and thus be able to accommodate the larger stock with modified jaws?

There IS a 4-jaw chuck shown with soft jaws- but that's a self-centering 4-jaw.

Do these mount trouble-free on a Sherline rotary table, I guess with the thread-adapting stub that came with my Sherline?
"The above" simply has outside jaws. Many chucks come with 2 sets of jaws, one inside and one outside. There do exist 3 jaw self centering chucks with 2 sets of jaws as well. The suggestion of the soft jaw variety was based on the fact that you can bore them to even larger size if you really need to. Unless you like to modify things you can't just put Taig chuck jaws onto a different chuck.
Any chuck designed to fit a Taig lathe will fit the Sherline rotary table adapter. "Trouble-free" is a matter of judgement, as although many chucks fit this adapter, you must always be aware of the direction of cutting force vs the unscrewing of that chuck from the adapter, outlined in the Sherline manual. It's never given me any trouble, but I always planned my cuts.

chris123
08-12-2010, 09:48 AM
How would I securely attach the taig 3-jaw chuck to the sherline rotary table?

fretsman
08-12-2010, 10:58 AM
How would I securely attach the taig 3-jaw chuck to the sherline rotary table?

You need the threaded adapter in the picture. Check Sherline for this part.


http://www.sherline.com/images/3700pic.jpg


Dave

chris123
08-13-2010, 01:38 AM
I thought the thread adapter comes with the table....

I meant securing the chuck to the table so it wont unscrew when fed in the other direction

fretsman
08-13-2010, 11:03 AM
I thought the thread adapter comes with the table....

I meant securing the chuck to the table so it wont unscrew when fed in the other direction

Well then you should have been more specific in your first post ;)

This is where your imagination comes in. Haven't given this a lot of thought because, quite frankly, my chucks have never come loose on me (knocking on wood!!!) but I'm sure you could come up with a type of threaded arbor that could be fitted through the table and then you could tighten the chuck that way.

You could also make a set of clamps that somehow hold the chuck down to the table by utilizing the chuck tightening holes.

You could even make a plate to clamp down on the Sherline table that had clearance holes to screw the chuck directly to it, from the back, and that would keep it nicely in place.

That's part of the fun of maching :)
Dave

awerby
08-13-2010, 05:11 PM
"I am concerned about gripping range. I have a project needing to work down 3" UHMW stock. This lists the max possible as 2-3/4" external grip. Is there a bigger option for this? I did pick up on the fact that as the stepped jaws are extended out, there's a limiting factor where they could actually extend out of the chuck and strike the XY table when it rotates. I could always just put it on a riser block I suppose."

You can cut down the back end of the workpiece, leaving a square stub that's easy to grip. You can remove some material from the inside, leaving a ring that you can grip from the inside with outward-facing chuck jaws. And you can attach a piece of material that's grippable to the back end of the workpiece.

The riser block might come in handy for some projects, but I've found that the Taig chuck screws are at the limit of their useful range by the time they get close to impinging on the mounting block or mill bed. On the other hand, you might find it useful to move the whole Z-axis assembly up a notch when dealing with large workpieces in 4th-axis mode, since you can run out of vertical room if you have a long tool in the collet.

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com
Authorized Taig Dealer