PDA

View Full Version : Another Joe in GA



BobF
09-12-2007, 09:26 PM
I guess I better start my own thread.
I am brand new to this.
I have orders placed for all (I hope) of the parts. Most of the hardware is here and I have constructed the bearings.
The HobbyCNC kit arrived 2 days ago and that is built.
Got my PC hooked up in the shop today and downloaded Mach3 and installed it. Looking through the program and learning how it works. I sure wish there was someone nearby that could show me a little on how this all works. Anyone in South GA or North FL willing contact me.
Mext post I will get out my camera and take some pics.

Bob

txcowdog
09-13-2007, 12:48 AM
Go get 'em. There is nothing like a new project to put a spring in your step. Looking forward to the pictures.

BobF
09-13-2007, 09:51 AM
You are correct.
Been bouncing off the walls waiting on stuff.
Whats the best way to learn Mach3?

ger21
09-13-2007, 11:16 AM
Whats the best way to learn Mach3?

Watch the videos at www.machsupport.com
Install it and start using it. You don't need a machine to start running code in it.

BobF
09-13-2007, 04:54 PM
Thanks Gerry.
Somehow I missed the videos. I have downloaded and started reading the user guide. I will download the videos tonight.

BobF
09-14-2007, 11:40 AM
I am thinking about cutting a "hole" through the end of the X table near endplate once my machine is built to allow machining the ends of boards similar to this:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=341738&postcount=117
What do you think?

DeWalt58
09-14-2007, 07:17 PM
Very COOL idea Bob......I like that!!! With something like adjustable de-stako type holding clamps for various thicknesses of boards...I can see it!!

Cheers
dewalt58

BobF
09-16-2007, 02:10 PM
Heres a few pictures.
Some of the parts I have collected, how I smoother my rails, and my PC running Mach as I try to figure it out while I wait on the rest of the parts.

I found the g-code for the left side of the gantry and loaded it and ran until the 500 line limit. It looks to me like Z axis 0 set to the top of the part. Is that correct?

BobF
09-16-2007, 02:16 PM
ok some one help me out.
I tried to load 3 pictures. They are 60 to 80 kB each. I browse to the pics and click upload, a couple of minutes later I get message from IE. It can't display the page.
Is it me or is CNCzone having a problem with pics?

BobF
09-16-2007, 05:57 PM
I hooked up all the motors and connected the driver to the PC. I found the G-code that had been posted to cut the gantry left side and loaded and ran it. It was pretty cool to see the tool path run around on the screen and hear my motors run. Too bad they were just sitting on the bench.

BobF
09-18-2007, 08:51 AM
I downloaded Sheetcam and installed it on my computer. Ran it and read through the first tutorial. Looks like it should be fairly easy to learn and use. Are others using this to run Joe?
Anyone want to compare it to some of the other choices?
Will it do carving?

DeWalt58
09-18-2007, 06:11 PM
Hi Bob,
In answer to your questions about SheetCam, it doesn't run your mill, its not motor driver software. All it does is take a 2D CAD drawing and convert it to G-code, then you post G-code to your driver software, for example Mach3. And No, it won't do carvings like VCarve does, sad to say. Its ability to convert 2D (not 3D) to G-code is very good and simple to use. I've used it for a couple years and love it, plus it has a large user base. If you can draw it in a 2D CAD program, SheetCam can make the code from it! For carving things like VCarve does requires different and more complex software, more controlling on the Z-axis in relation to line thickness I guess, haven't figured that out yet. Hope this helps you some.

Cheers
dewalt58

BobF
09-19-2007, 08:22 AM
Thanks DeWalt58,
I will be using it with Mach3, and have posted some g-code from the tutorial and run it. One things I noticed is that when it cuts the A from "CAM" it does a lot of "stair-stepping" and doesn't seem to be as smooth as it might be. Do you know if it is doing interpolation?

DeWalt58
09-19-2007, 05:43 PM
Bob,

I've don't remember SheetCam stairstepping with Mach3, could be the font your using. Try different fonts and see if it makes any differance. You can even look at the G-code in Mach3 (edit G-code) and see if its coded that way also. Other then that, I haven't a clue...I did just a few engravings along time ago with it. Mostly got a work out with it doing some of Joe's files making parts for new mill. It did that great!!

Cheers
dewalt58

BobF
09-20-2007, 08:43 AM
No idea what font it may have been. This was in the tutorial that comes with it.
Thanks for the reply.

BobF
09-21-2007, 05:24 PM
trying pictures again

BobF
09-21-2007, 05:41 PM
I guess I can't load but one picture at a time.
Here are the pictures I tried to load last time.

DeWalt58
09-21-2007, 06:06 PM
Bob,

Have the same problem also with pictures, just have to load em slow, one at a time. Love that wood lathe you got!! Hmmm...needs to be CNC'ed..;)
Good start on those skates. Not sure why but I find it better for me to start building the Z-axis first, then the Y-axis, and then the X-axis, just a personnal choise I guess, but theres reason to my madness...LOL Since I'm building my Joe machine alittle different from norm. No kit, all hand built from patterns and have to redraw in CAD alot of the parts, might add an inch here and there. Keep those pictures coming!!

dewalt58

BobF
09-23-2007, 09:01 AM
A couple of posts up I posted a link to someone elses machine where they had a way to clamp a verticle board at the end of the machine to do dovetails. I am thinking about adding a mod like that when I build mine.
Can anyone who has built a Joe tell me where the Z axis is when X is run all the way to the end of travel? Is it over the end plate, just at the end of the table, or somewhere else.

Thanks

bp092
09-23-2007, 09:17 AM
The z axis or center of the router spindle should be just hovering over the end of the plate because it is extended beyond the gantry sides by a few inches. However I still have yet to cut even close to that area so I'm not sure the coords or length for you sorry. I primarly cut on the top two thirds of the table and cut as much as I can along the y because my y is faster and more reliable.

BobF
09-24-2007, 12:34 PM
how fast my Bosch Jigsaw can cut through 3/4 drillrod. I started the cut by hand, added a little cutting fluid, and used a T118b blade. Both cuts done in about 10 minutes. I stopped a couple of times and blew out the swarf and added more cutting fluid. Slowed down the saw with the variable speed.

joecnc2006
09-24-2007, 04:00 PM
A couple of posts up I posted a link to someone elses machine where they had a way to clamp a verticle board at the end of the machine to do dovetails. I am thinking about adding a mod like that when I build mine.
Can anyone who has built a Joe tell me where the Z axis is when X is run all the way to the end of travel? Is it over the end plate, just at the end of the table, or somewhere else.

Thanks

Measuring in the drawings I get 1.84" overhang from center of bit to tables edge.

Joe

bp092
09-24-2007, 06:09 PM
how fast my Bosch Jigsaw can cut through 3/4 drillrod. I started the cut by hand, added a little cutting fluid, and used a T118b blade. Both cuts done in about 10 minutes. I stopped a couple of times and blew out the swarf and added more cutting fluid. Slowed down the saw with the variable speed.

Bob, jig saws kind of suck for cutting drill rod simply put. Either buy a cheap (or get a friend's) cutoff saw and cut them like butter. Or do what I and others did, buy a cutoff wheel at home depot and mount it on a skil saw. I think the cheapest craftsman skilsaw is around $35-$40 (pretty cheap). I just grinded the ends flat later on a bench grinder. It doesn't leave the nicest cut but it will get it pretty close. Then put the bad ends into the holes on the mdf part and leave the drill rod factory ends out towards the top by the motor mount (top of the z). It will still look purrrdy. But if you want to spend 10 minutes cutting drill rod with a jigsaw, by all means eat your heart out. :)

BobF
09-25-2007, 07:29 AM
Its done now BP. I originally planned to cut it by hand. The jigsaw did OK all things considered. I have a purdy cut too. :-).
If anyone else tries a jigsaw. Turn it upside down, and cut down. I did this and it works well. Had the drill rod clamped in my bench vise about 40" above the ground.

BobF
10-06-2007, 04:31 PM
Today I added some 6 pin DIN sockets to the front panel of my controller and attached mating plugs to the motor leads.
I reconnected the motors and all works as before.
I should have my kit from Joe next week and can start the rest of the build process.
I got the HobbyCNC kit with the 305 ounce motors. I have run them at 250ipm according to Mach3. (what it should be with a 1/2 8 2 start Acme). Is there a known RPM limit for steppers?
I saw a link to a screw manufacturer on another post and they had a spec for torque to lift 1 lb. I ran a quick excel calc and it looks like the motor should generate about 200lbs of force at 305 ounce inch if you assume that the screws and nuts are equal to their screw and plastic nut combination.

bearwen
10-07-2007, 10:31 PM
BobF,
If you want to know what kind of torque you have and calculate other stuff go to this thread http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31815and have a look the member named Mariss Freimanis is one of the techs engineers @ Gecko the guy knows his stuff and hes really nice before I bought my Geckos I called Gecko and actually talked to Mariss for about 45 min and found out that most of us have our machines configured incorrectlly we could get so much more out of them if you do your home work.

Good luck

Bearwen

BobF
10-07-2007, 11:22 PM
Thanks bearwen, thats a very informative thread.
The calculation I found gives me a guesstimate of the force the motors I have could apply.
I am assuming they work ok on the application as they are the motors and kit that Joe recommended. Actually he had the 205 motors, but I asked if the 305s would work well and he said yes.
The gantry on this machine is nowhere near the weight of the one in your thread.

BobF
10-18-2007, 08:21 PM
I came home today and there was a large box at the foot of the stairs leaning against the newell post. I loaded it onto my handtruck and rolled it into the garage. Opening one end slightly revealed a large quantity of packing peanuts.
My kit finally arrived. THANKS JOE.
So far I have been sorting through the parts and loose fitting some together to see if I remember how this goes together from all the threads I have read on the Zone. THANKS to all that have gone before. I don't know that I could build this without all the information here.
I see a busy weekend ahead. I just hope I get some time to assemble a few parts.
Anyone have a recommendation as to order of assembly?
I see most building Z first and then Y and X last. I think I will probably go that way.
Looks like Joe includes the parts to be able to use the original anti backlash setup as well as dumpster nuts.
All the parts appear very precise and fit nicely.
I am sure I will have questions as I go, and I wll take some pictures to post.
Thanks again to everyone and especially Joe.

DeWalt58
10-19-2007, 05:35 AM
Great to hear Bob, that you got your kit!!! Sounds like a fun weekend ahead! Yes, I vote for the Z-axis first.:)

Cheers
dewalt58

TCGliderguy
10-19-2007, 09:10 AM
For whatever it's worth... I started with the big, X axis egg crate.... just to get the largest volume of parts out of the way. I had stacks and stacks of MDF parts... and wanted to make some room.

I used a 4" roller to apply a 50/50 mix of TiteBond glue and water to all of the parts. When that dried, I primed all of the parts (again with a roller... after masking the gluing areas with 1/2" vinyl electrical tape)... and finally painted everything with Rustoleum Hammer finish silver paint. Using a roller is nice, because you can roll right over the recessed gluing areas, without messing them up with paint.

Good luck with your build.... It's fun to see the big machine come together....

-Taylor

BobF
10-28-2007, 11:23 PM
I finally got some things done over the last 2 weekends.
First picture shows where I drilled a few extra holes in the gantry sides. I used them all to allow me to use bolts for clamps. I will probably use the upper 2 to add some more allthread across the upper section of the gantry.
I super glued the nuts into the MDF that are used for the adjusters. I used thick super glue.
I also glued up the torsion boxes, and the Z carrier. I primed everything with Killz and started painting with Rustoleum hammered finish silver/gray. Got a few more parts to paint.
I have assembled the plastic parts and mounted the dumpster nuts. I attached them with 8 32 machine screws and nuts. I mounted the Z nut with screw heads facing the braces, and carved small notches in the braces to allow clearance.

joecnc2006
10-28-2007, 11:38 PM
Looks good Bob.

BobF
11-03-2007, 11:21 PM
I finished the gantry today. I hooked up the motors and jogged Y and Z around. Spent a few minutes playing with the moror control settings in Mach. I managed to get Z to run at 120 IPM and Y at 220 IPM. As long as I don't try to set the acceleration too high it seems I could run at the limit of the motors speed. I have the 305 in lb motors from hobbyCNC.
I used the dumpster parts for AB nut, couplers, and collars.
I put an extra block on the carriage. It has a hole just slightly larger than the Acme rod and may help a little with whip.

BobF
11-03-2007, 11:35 PM
Is there a way to reverse the motor direction in Mach?
I know I can change the connections on the HCNC board, but it would be easier to change in software if you can.

joecnc2006
11-04-2007, 12:26 AM
Is there a way to reverse the motor direction in Mach?
I know I can change the connections on the HCNC board, but it would be easier to change in software if you can.

Config / Homing and limits

BobF
11-04-2007, 07:25 AM
Thanks Joe,
I thought there was, I just couldn't find it yesterday.

DeWalt58
11-04-2007, 11:08 AM
Great speed on those axis Bob, and thats with the 1/2-8 2 start? What voltage are you running? Nice paint job too!!

Cheers
dewalt58

BobF
11-04-2007, 01:52 PM
Yes I am using the 1/2 8 2 start as mentioned in the mods section in the Joes forum. I built the hobbyCNC board and used the recommended transformer. It is a 24 volt transformer which I believe gives about 34 volts DC. I set the amperage to just below the rating on the motor.

BobF
11-04-2007, 08:01 PM
OK its all together now, at least most of it.
I have jogged all the axises with Mach. No cuts yet. I still need to mount the router. I left a space at the end of X to make a hole so I can cut dovetails if I want. I haven't completed this mod yet. Still trying to figure the best method.
If you look real close there is a line just in front of the pencil lines. This is separate piece of wood that I can remove so I can add my dovetail hole and clamp. I BORROWED the idea from another member here on the Zone.

TCGliderguy
11-04-2007, 09:16 PM
Could you elaborate a bit about your "dovetail" modification?...... I'm trying to figure out what it is you're talking about... since my machine is just about at the exact same stage as yours is....

Thanks!

-Taylor

BobF
11-05-2007, 08:09 AM
I posted a link in post 6 to another thread showing a machine with a "hole" through the bed and a way to clamp a board vertically so you could machine the end for dovetails. I studying a way to do that to may machine.

TCGliderguy
11-05-2007, 09:46 AM
O.K.... Now I understand. I wasn't sure if you were talking about cutting dovetails into the top of your machine for holding fixtures.... or something else.

I had a similar thought about my machine, although I was just thinking of some sort of a "Black & Decker Workmate" vise arrangement that would hold vertical pieces for boring and dovetailing. But, of course, the leadscrew underneath would get in the way of doing a wide piece that way...

So then I thought about some sort of a bolt-on adapter, that would hold the router with the bit parallel to the base (horizontally).... but I don't know enough about the software to know if the computer could figure out how to do a horizontal bore..... ?????

-Taylor

DeWalt58
11-05-2007, 06:13 PM
I'm thinking that no software change would be needed if you swapped wires to your steppers to do horizontal boring....what do you think Bob? Might be a problem getting the work high enough with the router in horizontal mode. Hummm.....hinged router holder so it flips from vertical to horizontal!!! Just a thought.

Cheers
dewalt58

BobF
11-05-2007, 07:53 PM
Seems like it would just be an X or Y movement instead of a Z movement. You could probably make a new router mount to hold it horizontally. This would allow boring the end of a large piece, but coudn't you do the same thing with my dovetail adaptation? Just make the "hole" large enough to clamp the work piece. The only limit would be how high you are off the floor.
There is a little over 7 inches between the frame sections in the inside of the X torsion box. I am trying to decide if that is enough space, or do I want to risk cutting one out and adding another brace or 2. I added one, but still haven't decided to cut any. Don't know If I would need to mount a board wider than the 7 incehs I have.

BobF
11-06-2007, 09:54 PM
Well it cuts air.
I loaded the G-code of one of the side plates and it follows the tool path it draws on the screen. I guess I need to buy my license for Mach now.
I have not mounted a router yet. Thats next. I think I will set the max motor speeds down to a lower number for the first few cuts. I also need to complete the wiring for the limit switches. I think the recommended way to setup is use the NC contacts so if I cut a wire or break one it shuts down.

BobF
11-10-2007, 11:51 AM
I have my Y and Z limit switches wired in. I have the all connected normally closed and wired in series. They are connected to the board on pin 15 and ground. If I run Mach3's auto setup it sees me trigger each switch, but if I leave them in the config, it immediately says limit switch triggered and shuts down. I think this is telling me I need an additional resistor in the line.
Correct?

BobF
11-13-2007, 10:07 PM
OK I think I got the limit switches working. Needed some "debounce" in the Mach3 setup.
Now I need to make a dust collector before I cut the top of the table, since I know the dust cloud will rival Mt St Helens.

joecnc2006
11-13-2007, 11:03 PM
Can you take some pictures and do a simple explanation on how you hooked it all up so others can benefit from it. maybe add to the mod sections?

Thanks, Joe

BobF
11-14-2007, 06:35 PM
Sure, Joe.
I'll get some pictures this weekend if not before and post them. I'll also write up a little explanation of how I set everything up.

BobF
11-17-2007, 02:05 PM
Ok here are some pics of the limit switches. I still have to add some to the Xaxis. This shows Y and Z. The micro switches I bought have 3 connections. There is a little diagram on the switch that shows how to connect them for NC or NO contact. I wired mine NC (normally closed) meaning they normally make a circuit. When trippped they open the circuit.

I used alarm system wire that I got from HD. I bought a 500' spool when I built my house and had some left. The wire is 4 conductor with a foil shield. I wired the switches in series. This lets me put the whole string on 1 input pin and the ground pin of the HobbyCNC board. I used pin 13 as the input pin. If the machine contacts any one of the switches, it stops. I also setup the top switch on Z and near switch on Y as home switches. If I click the "zero Y" button under diagnostics, the machine slowly moves to near side on Y until it contacts the switch and reverses just to the contact point of the switch.

If you look at the pictures, you can see where I split the outer jacket and pulled out the wires to make connections. In most places I used heat shrink tube to close the split back. There is one still open at the top of Z. All of the connections are soldered. You could also use small spade connectors on switches like mine.

The switches are mounted with 2 finish nails through 2 holes and held to the machine with a dab of thick super glue. This seems to provide enough support but still allow them to be removed. You could use small screws as well.

For the Y axis I bent the contact arm out a little with needle nose pliers, and added a contact block to the Z carrier. The block is about 3/8" thick and provides clearance for the all thread ends that protrude from the sides. Adjust the thickness to make the machine stop where you want it to.

calgrdnr
11-18-2007, 12:14 PM
Thanks for the pictures and info, Nice color :cool: like the hammered silver. You might look into bracing the gantry. I used bed frame nice and stiff heck to drill. braceing helped a lot also anchoring to the wall.
You are doing great job. bet you are having lots of fun. Just wait till you start carving :)

flyon
11-19-2007, 03:25 PM
I really like your build. I'm in the final stages of my build as well. One thing that I haven't figure out is how I'm run the wires to the carriage. It looks like you came up with a possible solution. I can kind'of see a hinged arm running from the gantry side to your carriage. I was wonder if you can explain what you did alittle. I went to HD last night looking for something like what you used and didn't find it.

Thanks,
Flyon

BobF
11-19-2007, 03:55 PM
Hi Flyon,
What you see is the wire management piece off the back of an old server rack that I got at work. If you work around computers and servers, maybe you can find one.
If not, here is a suggestion. This is hinged in 3 places: the middle. and a spot about an 1 inch or so from each end. You should be able to make one out some hinges and hardwood strips. This one has velcro to hold the wires. I'll take a better picture of it and get some measurements.

dshowalt
11-19-2007, 04:05 PM
Flyon
check out the picture in this thread.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41826

joecnc2006
11-19-2007, 04:55 PM
Those are good ideas, but the only concern I would have over long term, is flexing the wire in one spot, with an energy chain or using some Blue electrical conduit you distribute the bend over the length of the wires, Like Kent did on his.

Joe

BobF
12-02-2007, 11:04 AM
I had a problem with loosing steps and the motors making a "grinding" sound. I posted this in the Mach section and I think I found the solution. Here is a link to that thread.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47594

BobF
12-02-2007, 11:08 AM
I also had some issues with noise on the limit switches. Setting the debounce up to 3000 in the config helped reduce the false triggers. Next I plan to add a .01 cap to accross the connection. As soon as I get the cap and try it I'll report the results.
If this works, I think all the little issues are solved and I no longer have excuses for not making lots of sawdust.

joecnc2006
12-02-2007, 11:29 AM
interesting on the board, i will try the 1/2 set setting and turn current reduction off on my 4x4 machine, I have it at 1/4 and jog at 200ipm with no problems, but i am using 1/2-10 5 start, so 2tpi is a little different i am turning the motors probably 1/2 the speed as you are.

Look forward to some cutting from you. lol

Joe

gacrwell
12-03-2007, 05:09 PM
I had a problem with loosing steps and the motors making a "grinding" sound. I posted this in the Mach section and I think I found the solution. Here is a link to that thread.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47594


The board would be pretty easy to modify to use the current reduction output of Mach3 to control both the current reduction and sync. I'm going to give that a try just as soon as I get my table wired up.

Gary

BobF
12-04-2007, 08:33 AM
Not sure I know what you are talking about.
What "sync" are you referring to?
I disabled the current reduction and changed to 1/2 steps and that seemed to fix things. I have not tried each one separately to see if it is just one of the 2. I need to try that and see if I can isolate it to one. I noticed that the motors get a little hotter than they used to, so current reduction helped some.

gacrwell
12-04-2007, 04:46 PM
Not sure I know what you are talking about.
What "sync" are you referring to? ....

In the HobbyCNC board, the sync function and current reduction are tied together, and operate off of the same timing circuit. Current reduction reduces the motor temperature, and sync reduces the motor noise. Some folks I have corresponded with have done tests that appear to indicate that the sync circuit is the problem with missing steps or lock ups when restarting from idle. The use of sync on the board does appear to be contrary to the (somewhat ambiguous) instructions on the driver chip data sheet.

Gary

BobF
12-05-2007, 09:31 AM
Thanks Gary,
I may want to do the mods as well. Let me know when you try it.
If you can share additional info on the mods, I may try it now, if it is reversable.

BobF
12-10-2007, 04:07 PM
Got my other 2 limit switches installed over the weekend and added the .01 micro farad cap. This seems to have completely stopped the false triggers.

I cut the table top this weekend. It is now parrallel to the cutter path. LOT of DUST. I have a crude dust collector attachment, I can see I need to improve it some. Where did people find the skirt material?
I used the rectangular pocket and created one 44 x 24 to cut the top.

DeWalt58
12-15-2007, 09:58 AM
Hey Bob
Had the same problem as you did with the stalling from idle while testing my Z-axis 1/2"-8 (2 start) acme rod. Did like you, switched to 1/2 step on the HobbyCNC pro-board, current reduction OFF and lowerd the exceleration, but still hear a slight hic-cup from it, very small. Speeds set at 100 ipm jog rate. Any word from Gary about doing a fix to the pro-board? Also, did you have to sand, grind, file....etc... the acme rod to get the bearings on it, like I did?

dewalt58

BobF
12-15-2007, 12:43 PM
DeWalt58,
I have no info on a board mod yet.
I reduced the speed on the Z to 60 ipm. The Z doesn't move very far anyway and this is acceptable to me. I have no more hiccups. I still have X and Y running 180ipm rapids. I have run them at 200, but cut it back because X has some whip.
I did not have to file or grind the rod. I filed the corner off where I cut it and the bearing went on with a little persuasion.

BobF
12-24-2007, 12:29 PM
I wanted to cut something and couldn't wait on the V bits I ordered, so I made one. I took a dull 1/4" bit, put it in my vise and snapped it off to a lenght of about 2 1/2" about the same length as most 1/4" router bits. Next I chucked it up in a spare chuck that is not attached to a drill or anything. I used the 3 chuck key holes as index marks and ground 3 flats on the bit doing my best to center the point.
Here is the result.

BobF
12-31-2007, 07:54 PM
I downloaded the trial version of Vcarve and have been cutting some of the tutorial pieces. I can already tell I love this program. It is far easier than any of the others I have tried to learn. I already feel like I know what I am doing, at least for some things, and I have only been playing with it for a couple of days.
I bought a couple of bits from Centurion and they cut like butter. My homemade bit above does amazingly well though.

calgrdnr
12-31-2007, 10:41 PM
Howdy Bob .


I think Vectric software package is the best investment I have made.

Especially being new to CNC as I was/am it is by far the only reason I have been able to have so much fun with relatively no training…

I am only mad I didn’t get 3dcut at the same time. (nice to save monies)

The support from Vectric is fantastic, the updates/upgrade just make the program better and better.

The only thing I wish they would get done ASAP is to have the program access all of the processors on the computer, So I could have even more fun at hyberspeed :D

IMHO no one with a CNC router should be without this software.

And Yes the Centurion bits are good also … happy carving Kent

BobF
01-01-2008, 01:15 PM
Thanks Kent,
I am new to CNC as well. I worked in a small machine shop for about a year right after high school (1969), but there was no CNC then. Thats the sum total of my prior experience. I did learn to sharpen a drill bit by hand though.
I have been exploring the vectric forums as well. Lots of good stuff there.

joecnc2006
01-01-2008, 01:37 PM
You can not go wrong with Vectric, i have all three progams, they are great and very user friendly.

Joe

rdhharm
01-01-2008, 04:25 PM
I would 3rd the Vectrics software I also have all three and they are always willing to help in anyway the can. I didn't know a thing about how to run a CNC there software has made it very easy and fun.

Rick

CNC-Joe
01-01-2008, 05:45 PM
.................... LOT of DUST. I have a crude dust collector attachment, I can see I need to improve it some. Where did people find the skirt material?


I used the clear plastic carpet cover stuff from Home Depot to make the skirt. Use a pair of side cutters to remove the "spikes". Heavy duty and clear enough to see what's going on in there. A roll makes a lot of dust skirts.

BobF
01-09-2008, 06:04 PM
Here is a picture of my wire management arm.
This is just the wire management arm from an old rack-mount server. Attachment is a couple of drilled holes and bolts.
I also built legs. They are simply plywood glued together in a L shape with a piece attached to the bottom to scew the casters to. Boxed in a the bottom with more plywood. I plan to cut a shelf and add that as soon as I get some more shop time.

TCGliderguy
01-11-2008, 11:54 AM
Do you find that having the machine on a wheeled base is O.K.?..... I was assuming that it would try to scoot around if it were on wheels. ????

-Taylor

BobF
01-11-2008, 04:02 PM
Truth is I haven't cut much on it with just the wheels. The way I usually build wheeled shop stuff is put them on casters as you see in the pictures. The next step is to add heavy duty leveling jacks to the corners. This way I can lower the machine onto the wheels and move it, then jack up the corners just enough to remove the wheel movement and level the machine. I'll add pictures of that this weekend when I get the jacks installed.
I also have some new parts to make/install so I can mount the big Milwaukee. Right now I am using my Makita router since it fits (with mods) the Hitachi mount.
I will post some more pictures soon.

BobF
01-12-2008, 07:23 PM
Today I built a new router mount plate. I bought a piece of 6061 aluminum 5x12x0.5. This happened to be the right size. I took the old mount and layed it over the new one and mark the holes and drilled them. I also bought a mount from K2. I layed out the holes for this on the other end of the plate and drilled and tapped them.
I also mounted the jacks I talked about above.

joecnc2006
01-12-2008, 07:31 PM
Looks real good, you are the second one that i know of that has used a 1/2" rear plate for the router, Rick had his machined exactly like the MDF one, he said it is alot stiffer than before. Look forward to your results and review.

The K2 mounts are very nicely made.

Joe

BobF
01-12-2008, 10:33 PM
You are correct the K2 mounts are great. I saw the one you put on the 4x4 and that is what inspired me.
I did not machine mine, I just drilled it to match the MDF. The 5" width fits inside the outer U-bolt cutouts. I cut 2 strips of hardwood to fit between the U-bolt holes and drilled the holes for the 1/4" bolts through them. They are about 3/8" thick just enough to clear the nuts.
The whole setup is very strong as is your machine. I screwed up earlier. I was cutting the "bowl" in the cut3D tutorial. I typed in 600 for feed rate instead of 60. The machine was cutting at full rapid rate, about 200 inches per minute and taking 1/2" deep cuts with a 1/4 up spiral. It hogged it all out of a plank of walnut no problem. I knew it was cutting faster than I usually do, but I didn't realize what I had done till it was nearly through.

BobF
01-22-2008, 10:06 PM
I built this dust shoe today. It is made from 1/2" thick clear acrylic, some 2" brush, aluminum brush mount, and a piece of 1/2" round aluminum bar. I got most of the parts from Mcmaster. The 1/2" rod came from HD.
My router is mounted to Joes 2006 with a K2 mount and an aluminum plate I made. The dust shield has a 1/2" rod that slides into holes in the mount. I mounted the rod by drilling and tapping the end for 10-24 screw and drilled a 3/16" hole in the acrylic. There is a large flat washer on the top between the acrylic and the rod to help keep things straight. The aluminum brush mounts are attached with screws. I cut the brush strip with a bolt cutter so it crimps the end during the cut, then filed the ends into a miter 45. I crimped the brush mounts to keep the brush from sliding out to easily. The hole for the router bit is 1.5" to allow the collet nuts clearance. Since the shoe is about 1/2" below the router motor it acts as a diffuser for the air flow also.

joecnc2006
01-22-2008, 10:22 PM
Nicely done, i really like the K2 Mounts. I almost went with the Milwaukee router on the 4x4 but for now will use the Hitachi.

Joe

BobF
01-22-2008, 11:33 PM
Thanks Joe
When you wear out that Hitachi, get the big Milwaukee. Watch this site, they have them at good prices from time to time.
http://www.heavydutytools.net/Scripts/default.asp
I don't see the 5625 listed right now, but they come and go.

BobF
02-10-2008, 11:32 PM
I had to try this. Several others on the vectric forum have carved this and I had to see how it would come out on my machine.

silentreaper
02-11-2008, 08:29 PM
I had to try this. Several others on the vectric forum have carved this and I had to see how it would come out on my machine.



OH MY, and how much machine time was there for that one?

BobF
02-11-2008, 09:34 PM
Took about 3 hours at 100 ipm with 50 ipm plunge.
The one running now looks like it might take 6 hours.

txcowdog
02-14-2008, 12:45 AM
With that kind of machine time you would have to charge a hefty price for that single piece if you were selling it. Buyers just don't know what goes on behind the curtain and can't appreciate all of the setup and running time. They just see the final product and regardless how stunning it is, without the backend knowledge I guess it is hard to justify a purchase of such a time consuming item.

I'll ad my WOW!! That looks incredible. Stunning work.

BobF
02-15-2008, 09:24 AM
Thanks for the comments.
I don't have any idea what a buyer might be willing to pay. I do this for my own enjoyment.

GoFaster
02-19-2008, 11:25 AM
I had to try this. Several others on the vectric forum have carved this and I had to see how it would come out on my machine.

Wow, that's beautiful. Could you please provide a link to the file/thread on the Vectric forum? I looked but cound't find it. Thx

BobF
02-19-2008, 02:22 PM
Wow, that's beautiful. Could you please provide a link to the file/thread on the Vectric forum? I looked but cound't find it. Thx

Sure
http://vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2059

BobF
03-02-2008, 03:54 PM
I measured the runout on my Milwaukee. Just turning the bit, I measure about .001" runout or less. If I push the bit hard with my fingers I can deflect it .008". this could be flex in the machine, the bearings don't feel loose. I measured using a 1/2" shank solid carbide bit about 2" below the collet.

calgrdnr
04-28-2009, 02:04 PM
Hello Bob , I was going back thru your thread. I see you changed out your Z axis with Aluminum plate. I have always though I was getting to much flex in the MDF also. I was going to also shorten up the plate ,i.e. not so much over hang. Do you see a problem with that ?

thanks for your time and input

Kent

BobF
04-28-2009, 10:22 PM
Kent,
I left the HPDE plate in the back and changed out only the MDF. I think you could shorten it some, but make sure you still have all the travel you need.
I used the K2 mount for my router. I really like this mount and recommend it. The plate I used is 5" wide and 1/2" thick. There is very little flex in the plate, although it does provide quite a lever arm for the gantry.
You could also drill and tap several sets of holes for the mount and move the router up and down the plate until you find the position you like the best, then if you want to cut if off, go for it.

calgrdnr
05-06-2009, 11:01 AM
Thanks Bob, great Idea . I will post if I get it done. I was think also about rebuilding completely to be like the 4x4 zaxis ie V rollers. thanks again for the Idea I will deffinatly do it first



Kent

BobF
05-07-2009, 07:48 PM
Here are some pictures of my latest dust collector. I used the previous one ane recut it. The skirts are vinyl and attached with velcro. I have 2 skirts of different lengths to accomodate different bits and depth of cut. The first pic is the old design.

joecnc2006
05-07-2009, 07:52 PM
Did you try to turn it 90° to place the hose towards the front?

BobF
05-07-2009, 08:04 PM
Yes.
Glad you said that.
The new config has the hose at the front and not at the side like the old one.
Seems so natural now that I forgot about the old one being sideways.

dgoddard
05-08-2009, 09:03 PM
Looking for anyone in Northeast GA who has built the Joe's 4x4 router. Have been reading thru the threads and interested in talking with someone (possible come see machine) prior to purchasing plans. I'm located near Commerce. Send me a PM if you can help.

BobF
05-09-2009, 12:55 PM
Here are the pictures of my dust collector from another thread. It includes the other correct picture, instead of the one of the old one that is above.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=603612&postcount=5

BobF
05-09-2009, 01:05 PM
Here is a little tutorial from a shopbot member who build a Vac-System, Kind of a Step by Step. Would be interesting to see one done on the on the 2006. I may try this at some point.

http://shopbotwiki.pbwiki.com/Build-your-own-vac-system

robertmonroe is building one for his here.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80425

BobF
05-09-2009, 01:10 PM
Here is the current reduction fix that Gary worked out.
I have read elsewhere that this works well. I plan to do this mod next time I pull down the controller. I said this a while back and still have not done it. Several others have and report good results.
I am posting some of these for the benefit of others and also as a way to record them for myself so I wont loose track later.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49043