PDA

View Full Version : Joes CNC Model 2006 in Vancouver, Wa



flyon
07-27-2007, 02:41 AM
I think it's time I start my build log.

So far I all the parts except the drive screws and my kit from Joe.
I'm going to try to get the electronics and rail slides ready before I get my kit in the next few weeks.

As for my drive screws, I'm still trying to figure out everything I need for a 1/2-10 2 start system before I order that stuff.

I have some pictures and I'll put together my list of parts in my next post.
I'm trying out some different parts so hopefully everything comes together in the end.

Flyon

flyon
07-28-2007, 09:39 AM
Here's my part list so far.


Joes CNC Model 2006 Kit - Joe
Screws and stuff - BoltDepot (tip put 'green hat' in for code and they'll send you green hat)
L-channel and hardened bar - Enco
Steppers - 425 oz-in - Keling Technology, Inc
Drivers - KL- 5042 - Keling Technology, Inc
Power Supply - 48V/5A - Keling Technology, Inc
Software - Mach 3 and still looking
Breakout Board - C10 - CNC4PC -Maybe looking to go with C11 Multifunction CNC Board later
Courage and Product Support - www.cnczone.com :)

flyon
08-03-2007, 01:48 PM
A quick update.
You would think that after collecting computer parts for twenty years I would have atleast one parallel cable. I have acouple of ones with CENTRONICS on one, but no straight parallel ends. I'll source one this weekend.

Like most people I've been trying to make some room in my garage. I've already made one trip to the dump, and need to made another trip. I'm still atleast two weeks out for my kit from Joe, so I think I'm doing fine. I know once I get it I won't be doing anything else. So need to make some room.

I still need my drive screws, I was thinking 1/2 2start-10 screws, but I see some are using 1/2 2start-8 screws. Any suggestions?

Also, I've seen some knobs on the ends of dual ended stepper motors. Anyone know where I can get some of those? I think it's just 3/8 so maybe just some car stero knobs?

Finally, I've been thinking of new pendant ideas. I've found a 3d mouse and also I have a pocketpc with touch screen and wifi that I could use. Both would probably require some coding, but I've looked at the Mach 3's SDK and it looks like it might be easy to do. I'd like to do more cutting then programming, but I am a programmer. The 3d mouse would also come in handy for solidworks I bet.

https://3dconnexionstore.com/itemDetail.asp?itmNo=56826423N

gacrwell
08-03-2007, 05:35 PM
A quick update.
You would think that after collecting computer parts for twenty years I would have atleast one parallel cable. I have acouple of ones with CENTRONICS on one, but no straight parallel ends. I'll source one this weekend.

Had the same problem. Threw away a whole box of Centronics cables that I was saving for... nothing aparently.

Gary

flyon
08-11-2007, 02:43 AM
Just a quick update.
I got a parallel cable last weekend and all week I've been trying to hook up atleast one stepper motor just to watch something happen. But with the summer my kids have been staying up later then normal and I haven't gotten anything done.

But today I got a motor to turn. I had some problems with Mach 3, mostly because I've never really used it before. Once I thought I had the settings right and it still didn't work, I restarted Mach and it started working.

I'm going to try to cut and drill the rail slides tomorrow. Also, I still need to figure out what drive screws I'm going to use and get them ordered. Other then that I'm just waiting for my kit to arrive.

ccsparky
08-11-2007, 07:31 AM
Just a quick update.
I got a parallel cable last weekend and all week I've been trying to hook up atleast one stepper motor just to watch something happen. But with the summer my kids have been staying up later then normal and I haven't gotten anything done.

But today I got a motor to turn. I had some problems with Mach 3, mostly because I've never really used it before. Once I thought I had the settings right and it still didn't work, I restarted Mach and it started working.

I'm going to try to cut and drill the rail slides tomorrow. Also, I still need to figure out what drive screws I'm going to use and get them ordered. Other then that I'm just waiting for my kit to arrive.

Flyon,

The waiting is the hardest part, well maybe next to finding time to play! :)
Congratulations, it's fun when the motors turn for the first time!!!

When I first got involved with my kit most everyone was using the 1/2-10 ACME rod. Now a lot of people are going with the 1/2-8 2 start.
You can find the anti-backlash nuts and other hardware at: http://www.dumpstercnc.com/
I've purchased the 1/2-8 2s rod but have not installed them yet.
Jay has installed the 1/2-8 and increase his stepper size also, check out his site at: http://www.cncjay.com/ and his build here at the Zone.
A few people are using the Shuttle Pro V2. David DaCosta was using the Shuttle and may still be using it, however he built his own pendant, if you haven't seen it yet, check out his log. He did a great job, it's very nice!
Also if you do a search for "Shuttle" in the Mach forums you find info and a plug-in for it.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com has some hand wheels and if you do a search on the internet you see places like Reid Supply has a large selection and I believe McMaster Carr carries some as well.

Can wait to see your progress!!

Bob

flyon
09-13-2007, 02:16 PM
I've been busy in the last week or so. I received my Joes CNC Model 2006 about two weeks ago. Since then I've been glueing and painting. Last night I've finished painting and moved on to cleaning up the rails. I took someones suggestion here and picked up some drum sanding kits from Harbor Freight. I think it's called the 20 piece drum sanding kit (45006) ~$8.00 each. With the sanding kit I was able to place the drum in the ends of the pipes and then tighten till they locked in the pipe. I then attached my drill to one end with the other in in a piece of wood with a 1/4 hole. In about 10 minutes I had a 'clean' pipe. My pipes do have some scrathes that run the length of the pipe, but I think I can rotate the pipe to avoid them. I have lots of pictures, I'll try to upload with I get home tonight.

Flyon

nlancaster
09-15-2007, 05:28 AM
Hey flyon, we need pics :D

I live just south of you in Tigard OR. I am thinking very hard about building my own design or a joe2006 CNC router. I wonder if you need any help during assembly? If you do I would love to be a helping hand just so I can see how this all goes together, and how every thing looks in person. Pics are good but no substitute for viewing with your own eyes.

Nick

acondit
09-15-2007, 12:31 PM
flyon and nlancaster,

I live just south of you both in Woodburn, OR. I am cutting out parts to either build a joe2006 or modify my existing router. Give a holler if I can help.

Alan

flyon
09-16-2007, 05:28 PM
Sure, I'll send you my contact info. Let's shoot for next weekend. My next steps are to get the z and Y axis assembled. I'm going to spend the rest of this week cleaning up the rest of the pipes. I haven't started the x axis (big) ones yet.

One over-sight I've made so far is the table. I don't have one yet. I could use an old dining room table I have, or better yet I saw someone buy one that is made from angle iron. It looked really nice, also you add cabinetry on it. I'm going to look into that one.

I'm having some problems posting the pictures. I'll see about maybe using some third party to host them.

Flyon

flyon
09-16-2007, 06:02 PM
Pictures

nlancaster
09-17-2007, 12:11 AM
Flyon,

You rock I would love to take a look at your machine and give you a helping hand. Send an email to "sendittonick-AT-verizon.net" replace -AT- with @ :D My weekends are Friday and Saturday, so let me know when I could come over and help/look :D

For what ever machine I build eventually I was thinking of useing some old kitchen cabinets as the table with build in storage. Might have to reinforce the corners to hold the weight but they could probably be found cheep and in millions of different configurations.

nick

bp092
09-17-2007, 07:35 PM
nice photos, your build looks like it is making great headway!

bgriggs
09-17-2007, 09:56 PM
Sure, I'll send you my contact info. Let's shoot for next weekend. My next steps are to get the z and Y axis assembled. I'm going to spend the rest of this week cleaning up the rest of the pipes. I haven't started the x axis (big) ones yet.

One over-sight I've made so far is the table. I don't have one yet. I could use an old dining room table I have, or better yet I saw someone buy one that is made from angle iron. It looked really nice, also you add cabinetry on it. I'm going to look into that one.

I'm having some problems posting the pictures. I'll see about maybe using some third party to host them.

Flyon

That table was from Rockler.

Bill

acondit
09-22-2007, 09:43 PM
Flyon,

It was great to meet you and Nick today. Thanks for inviting me over. I really enjoyed seeing a Joe's kit up close and personal. It looks like you are doing a great job so far. If I can help just give me a holler.

It is often easy to nit pick someone else's work, but having built my own, I am even more impressed with Joe's design.

Alan

nlancaster
09-22-2007, 10:30 PM
Thanks for inviting us over. Joe's Machine does look very good. If you need a hand with any assembly let me know. It look alot bigger in person :D

Nick

joecnc2006
09-24-2007, 03:18 PM
So ya'll (texas slang) were able to see the machine 1st hand? Hope you like the design, It is unbelieveable how many people have built the machine, either with a kit or on their own, I really enjoy seeing a new machine pop up and the mods people have implimented on them. And it has its own section here on the forum for support.

Joe

bp092
09-24-2007, 06:10 PM
Joe any idea on the kit count? I wouldn't be suprised if you have hit 100 yet. There has to be at least 50 of these built and running; I've seen random joe06 designs on youtube that haven't even been logged here at the zone. Lots of lurkers I suppose!

flyon
09-24-2007, 06:45 PM
Nick and Alan, thanks for coming over. Since I'm a beginner it was nice to meet and learn cnc tips from you two. I'll admit I was lost sometimes when you two were talking. There's a lot I still gotta learn.

In the last few days I've been fitting together pieces and cutting and drilling the skates. I've been waiting on the skates because I thought it they were going to be hard to do. Turns out they weren't really hard at all. One question though, should I drill then tap the alumium for the screws? I seem to remember someone did that, thats the way I'm heading so far. Anyways, show have the skates done tonight either way.

I'm really surprise how fast things have come together in the last few days. I'll post some pictures tonight.

Flyon

joecnc2006
09-24-2007, 10:07 PM
Joe any idea on the kit count? I wouldn't be suprised if you have hit 100 yet. There has to be at least 50 of these built and running; I've seen random joe06 designs on youtube that haven't even been logged here at the zone. Lots of lurkers I suppose!

Yea i have seen a couple i did not know about, If we see some copies or such we all know it originated from the CNCZone.... lol

I really do not know how many so far i believe all in all over 50, with kits and other making their own.

Joe

flyon
09-25-2007, 01:03 PM
Everytime last night I tried to get on the computer the wife was busy on it. I'll try again tonight. Last night I was able to drill and tap the x axis bracket that allows you to adjust the x axis skate. I'll try get the y axis tonight.

Flyon

flyon
09-26-2007, 02:27 AM
Heres a couple pictures of my progress from the last few days. Also, I tried to cut the drill rods tonight, it didn't go so well. I remember I had a metal blade for my band saw, I thought that would work. At least it cut thru the aluminum like butter. I got about a quarter of the way thru and it stop cutting. I looked at the blade and it looks like all the teeth are rounded off. I tried to cut the aluminum again and it wouldn't cut it. Oh well, I'll try the metal cut off wheel.

Flyon

acondit
09-27-2007, 02:29 PM
flyon,

You can actually by carbide tipped blades for your bandsaw (not cheap).

Alan

acondit
09-28-2007, 01:48 PM
flyon,

I finally got EMC2 installed on that box. I had to install it 3 or 4 times before I got it to work. The problem was that the graphical installer won't run successfully on a 128meg memory machine. I finally downloaded the iso for a text based install and everything worked fine.

The other problem that I had was in getting the internet to run. I have my router set up for transparent bridging and my isp's server and Ubuntu didn't want to talk to each other but I finally got that working too. I probably could have called my isp's support (they are actually pretty good) but I just kept playing until I got it.

Thanks,
Alan

flyon
09-28-2007, 04:06 PM
Acondit,

Send me your address and I'll mail you out an extra 128Mb memory stick(Nlancaster you too). Good to know it works. I might go this route. If I got time this weekend I'll try it out on my workbench next to Mach 3.

Meanwhile, I've cut the Z axis rod. I bought another metal blade at hf and tried it, again didn't work good. So I used a metal cutoff blade in my table saw. I should just done that to beginning with. It took 5 minutes but it worked. I'll cut it to size later.

Also I've started to work on the Z axis, maybe I get that together this weekend.

Also, I'm going to order all my drive screws(1/2"-8 2start) and backlash parts(dumpercnc) this weekend.

Flyon

flyon
10-02-2007, 01:19 PM
My first big mistake...

I'd just finished tapping my last hole last night was look forward to putting together the z axis. I put some bolts thru the holes in the skates then pulled out my bearing for the first time. When I put one bearing on, they were way too big, what did I miss. I drilled and tapped all my holes at 1/4", not 5/16".

I spent hours tapping them holes. It's clearly described in Joes Manual as 5/16" holes, how did I miss that. I can recover, but hate the idea of drilling out those tapped holes I sweated over.

Anyways, I'm having fun, atleast it doesn't feel like work.

One question though, do I need to tap the holes in the skates?

Flyon

rdhharm
10-02-2007, 03:30 PM
My first big mistake...

I'd just finished tapping my last hole last night was look forward to putting together the z axis. I put some bolts thru the holes in the skates then pulled out my bearing for the first time. When I put one bearing on, they were way too big, what did I miss. I drilled and tapped all my holes at 1/4", not 5/16".

I spent hours tapping them holes. It's clearly described in Joes Manual as 5/16" holes, how did I miss that. I can recover, but hate the idea of drilling out those tapped holes I sweated over.

Anyways, I'm having fun, atleast it doesn't feel like work.

One question though, do I need to tap the holes in the skates?

Flyon

I did not tap the holes for mine just drilled a 5/16 hole and they work just fine but I did use a lock washer.

Rick

aolshove
10-02-2007, 04:19 PM
I live just South nlancaster in Tualatin, OR and I've decided today to build the Joes Model 2006. 2 years ago I built the Kleinbauer 7th Soujourn router from http://www.kleinbauer.com and it's served me well as a learning platform but now I'm on to a bigger toy. I'm going to use my 7th to cut out some of the smaller parts for the Joes and will be reusing my HobbyCNC controller with some new 305 oz/in steppers (yet to be purchased). A video of my current router in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISjyHstd6zQ

It's small, only can handle 15"x15" work. I need to start cutting at least 2' x 2' and 4' x 2' is optimal for now. Eventually, I want a 4'x8' machine but that's way down the road. Any way, just thought I'd say hi as we might be a local club together someday. ;-)

flyon
10-02-2007, 04:33 PM
Thanks, that's sure good to know. I'll be able to redrill those tonight then.

I did place an order for the 1/2-8 2 start screws from McMaster-Carr and Leadscrews and parts from DumpsterCNC. The only other parts I need now is wire and homing switches. I'm still afew weeks away from that part of the build though I think.

Flyon

nlancaster
10-03-2007, 04:18 AM
Absolutly, we should form some sort of Portland Area club to help eachother and others out in the area.

Tuesday morning I purchased the 495oz/in kit from keling, so now I have no choice but to build my machine. I feel that having $500 worth of parts laying around will be good motivation to build my machine.

And here is a sneek peek of my self designed router. Still a few details to Iron out before I begin construction, but the main dimesntions and design features are nailed down. Joes machine is awesome and would go together quicker then building my own. I just dont have $700 bucks to drop all at once on the kit, and I love the satisfaction of designing and building something myself.
http://nlancaster.shackspace.com/CNC%20Router/cnc%20machine%203.jpg

joecnc2006
10-03-2007, 08:59 AM
Nice drawing, do not forget to allow for adjustment for the bearings on the rails, over time you will have wear and will need to keep the bearings snug on the rails.

Joe

nlancaster
10-03-2007, 01:18 PM
Thanks joe. This will be the last post I talk about the machine I am designing, dont want to hijack Flyons thread. But there are adjustment screws on the bottom of the gantry pushing the lower rail trucks against the rails to take up any slack.

Nick

flyon
10-05-2007, 05:23 PM
I went home for lunch and saw I got a develivery from McMaster-Carr. My drive screws are here. It's going to a fun weekend.

In other news, I've drilled out my skates and put together the skates for my x, and z axis, but I ordered too few 5/16*1 1/2 bolts for my y. After looking I guess I'm not the only one that fell into this trap. Other then that I hope to finish my z axis this weekend.

Flyon

flyon
10-13-2007, 10:51 PM
I've been doing little things each day over the last week. I can't believe that it's starting to look finished.err..assembled I mean. Besides cleaning up the X rails, I've pretty much done as much as I can. One thing I gotta figure out is since I have a kit from Joe(thanks again). It comes setup for the acme 1/2-10 lead nuts. Since I went with the 1/2-8 2 start and dumpstercnc stuff, I gotta switch out the hdpe leadnut holders with ones that will accept the dumpstercnc antibacklash ones. I know I said the assembly part is almost done, but I'm sure running all the electronics is going to have it's own challenges.

Flyon

nlancaster
10-13-2007, 11:25 PM
So you have already assembled your gantry onto the machine and so on? If you haven't and need a hand with that as it looks like a big job let me know I could help you out.

nick

flyon
10-15-2007, 04:37 PM
Hey Nick,

No, I haven't tried putting the gantry on the x rails yet. I guess I could try fitting that too. I'll just have to take it apart when I get the hdpa leadnut holders for the 1/2-8 2starts. I'm going to move to the electronics till I find someone to cut me the hdpa holders for the dumpstercnc stuff I have. This is a time where it would be nice to have another cnc machine handy. I thought I saw Joe had publish the cut files for them. It's also a good time for me to go back thru all the posts and see if missed anything. I'm also starting to play around with the different cad/cam software packages out there looking for what will work for me.

If anyone can help me out by cutting the pieces I need, please let me know. I have some extra parts and a few good computers to trade with.

Flyon

acondit
10-15-2007, 05:20 PM
Hey Nick,

No, I haven't tried putting the gantry on the x rails yet. I guess I could try fitting that too. I'll just have to take it apart when I get the hdpa leadnut holders for the 1/2-8 2starts. I'm going to move to the electronics till I find someone to cut me the hdpa holders for the dumpstercnc stuff I have. This is a time where it would be nice to have another cnc machine handy. I thought I saw Joe had publish the cut files for them. It's also a good time for me to go back thru all the posts and see if missed anything. I'm also starting to play around with the different cad/cam software packages out there looking for what will work for me.

If anyone can help me out by cutting the pieces I need, please let me know. I have some extra parts and a few good computers to trade with.

Flyon

Flyon,

I would be happy to help out.

Alan

flyon
10-15-2007, 05:57 PM
Alan,

Maybe I can send you the three hdpa pieces which need the "square" pocket cut instead of the hexagon pocket which is there now. Reminds of the square peg in a round hole problem. I'll try and look tonight for the code/dimesons to cut the pieces. Or if that a bad solution, I can find some blank hdpa and we can cut the pieces from scratch. Let me know what you think.

Thanks alot,
Flyon

joecnc2006
10-15-2007, 06:22 PM
Hey Nick,

No, I haven't tried putting the gantry on the x rails yet. I guess I could try fitting that too. I'll just have to take it apart when I get the hdpa leadnut holders for the 1/2-8 2starts. I'm going to move to the electronics till I find someone to cut me the hdpa holders for the dumpstercnc stuff I have. This is a time where it would be nice to have another cnc machine handy. I thought I saw Joe had publish the cut files for them. It's also a good time for me to go back thru all the posts and see if missed anything. I'm also starting to play around with the different cad/cam software packages out there looking for what will work for me.

If anyone can help me out by cutting the pieces I need, please let me know. I have some extra parts and a few good computers to trade with.

Flyon

try my yahoo group, i put them all in one place, look under (Files / Joes CNC Model 2006 / Mods).

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/joescnc

Joe

acondit
10-16-2007, 11:55 AM
Alan,

Maybe I can send you the three hdpa pieces which need the "square" pocket cut instead of the hexagon pocket which is there now. Reminds of the square peg in a round hole problem. I'll try and look tonight for the code/dimesons to cut the pieces. Or if that a bad solution, I can find some blank hdpa and we can cut the pieces from scratch. Let me know what you think.

Thanks alot,
Flyon

Flyon,

You aren't going to use the stock pieces anyway, so why don't you send them to me and I'll see if I can cut the square pockets in them. I should be able to do that in the mill. If the doesn't work then we can make some new ones. Measure your Dumpster nuts and send me the dimensions with the original parts.

I looked at Joes drawings and I don't see how the dumpster nuts are help in place. Are there some additional holes that need to be drilled for screws that I don't see?

Alan

joecnc2006
10-16-2007, 12:20 PM
Flyon,

You aren't going to use the stock pieces anyway, so why don't you send them to me and I'll see if I can cut the square pockets in them. I should be able to do that in the mill. If the doesn't work then we can make some new ones. Measure your Dumpster nuts and send me the dimensions with the original parts.

I looked at Joes drawings and I don't see how the dumpster nuts are help in place. Are there some additional holes that need to be drilled for screws that I don't see?

Alan


Yes, i press fit the dumpster nuts into the pocket then use a drill press and drill the 4 holes, then tap the dumpster nut and HDPE at the same time and install the screw. it is very easy to tap.

hope that helps.

Joe

acondit
10-17-2007, 12:50 PM
Yes, i press fit the dumpster nuts into the pocket then use a drill press and drill the 4 holes, then tap the dumpster nut and HDPE at the same time and install the screw. it is very easy to tap.

hope that helps.

Joe

Joe,

Thanks.

Flyon,

If you send me a 5" length of your threaded rod with the pieces, I'll make a tap from it for you as well.

Alan

flyon
10-17-2007, 02:05 PM
Alan,

I just mailed out the hdpa pieces to you this morning. I also included the leadnut stuff from dumpstercnc for test fitting and a prepaid return envelope. Thanks again for helping me out.

I haven't cut the 1/2-8 2start for the y and z axis yet. I did some test fitting but that all. I can cut them tonight and send you the extra pieces tomorrow. I'll do some guessdamating on the y and z lengths. I just don't wanta come up short.

I've been cutting stuff using a 8" cutting blade on my table saw. It works really nice for cutting the alumium to size and grinding the flats too. It also worked to cut the drilling rods, but I saw it left some discoloration on the rods, probably from heat. I'm sure it will cut the 1/2 drive screws, but will that hurt it for making taps? I don't know much about tempering metal(sp). Maybe I'm over thinking stuff.

But wow I like the idea of some 1/2-8 2 start taps. I can send what'ever thread I have left and I hope their will be enough for you to make a tap for yourself too.

Flyon

nlancaster
10-17-2007, 03:38 PM
aren't the dumpesterCNC nuts alreaded threaded for your rod? Why would you need to thread anything with those AB nuts? I think joe is talking about taping the HDP so that you can screw the Dumpster AB nut to the HDPE.

acondit
10-17-2007, 04:46 PM
aren't the dumpesterCNC nuts alreaded threaded for your rod? Why would you need to thread anything with those AB nuts? I think joe is talking about taping the HDP so that you can screw the Dumpster AB nut to the HDPE.

Nick,

I could be wrong but I thought he was talking about threading the HDPE the same as the dumpsterCNC nuts. He may have been talking about the four holes for the fasteners. Hopefully, I can figure it out when the parts arrive from Flyon.

If the hole in the HDPE is small enough to thread for the 1/2x8 two start and you tapped it after pressing the dumpsterCNC nut into the pocket in the HDPE, I don't think you would need any other fastener to hold them together. Once you fed the screw into the HDPE and dumpsterCNC nut the nut couldn't shift, at least not when it was new. But drilling the four holes and fastening them together is probably good insurance against backlash developing after the nuts wear. It would be real frustrating to have anti-backlash nuts that didn't really do any thing because the whole nut was shifting position.

Alan

joecnc2006
10-17-2007, 05:31 PM
Yes i was talking about the 4 flange bolt holes on the Dumpster nut, this must be attached to the block and bolted to the machine otherwise you will have some play just having the anti-backlash held into place with the threaded rod.

Joe

flyon
10-17-2007, 05:42 PM
Alan,

I'm pretty sure Joe was talking about tapping the four holes that attach the ab nut to the hdpe. I think I saw that someone tapped their hdpe directly for the 1/2-8 2start, but something else. The hole in the hdpe that I sent you is too big to tap, otherwise that might of been an option. As for the tap, I probably won't need it till I try building something else. Or better yet, if you do build it, I'll hold on to it, then if anybody here needs it, they're welcome to borrow it. I kind of feel like I should give back to the 'Joes Model 2006' community some how.

Flyon

acondit
10-18-2007, 08:30 PM
Alan,

I just mailed out the hdpa pieces to you this morning. I also included the leadnut stuff from dumpstercnc for test fitting and a prepaid return envelope. Thanks again for helping me out.

Flyon

Flyon,

The parts arrived about 3:30 this afternoon. I have got the pockets machined and the nuts pressed in. I still have to drill and tap the 12 holes. With a little luck I will get them back in the mail tomorrow.

Alan

acondit
10-18-2007, 10:43 PM
Flyon,

I got the holes drilled and tapped. You will need to replace the screws that I put it. All I had was 6-32x3/8. I would recommend 6-32x5/8, but at least 6-32x1/2. I think 6-32x3/4 may be just a hair too long.

Alan

joecnc2006
10-18-2007, 10:59 PM
I used 3/4" long, works fine. On my 4x4 i used longer and then placed a lockwash and nut on it to ensure the threads did not pull through under pressure, then just used a washer for spacer on the 4-1/4" bolts when attaching to machine.

joe

BobF
10-18-2007, 11:32 PM
6-32 seems small to me. Wouldn't a 8-32 or 8-24 be better?
I was even thinking I might be able to use some of the same 10-24 socket head type like I got for the motor mounts.

acondit
10-19-2007, 12:08 AM
6-32 seems small to me. Wouldn't a 8-32 or 8-24 be better?
I was even thinking I might be able to use some of the same 10-24 socket head type like I got for the motor mounts.

Bob,

I just did it based on the size of holes in the DumpsterCNC nut. An 8-32 wouldn't go through the hole. Besides, (4) 6-32 screws have a fair amount of holding power.

Alan

flyon
10-19-2007, 12:22 AM
I'll probably pickup some 6-32x3/4 screws, lockwashers, and nuts and do it like Joe did. I like the idea of securing the screws from the other side with a nut. Thanks again for putting the pockets in those for me. You saved the day for me, let me know if you ever need some cnc time on it when it is done.

Also, heres a few pictures I took the other day.

joecnc2006
10-19-2007, 09:19 AM
Its comming along pretty good.

Joe.

acondit
10-19-2007, 11:14 PM
I'll probably pickup some 6-32x3/4 screws, lockwashers, and nuts and do it like Joe did. I like the idea of securing the screws from the other side with a nut. Thanks again for putting the pockets in those for me. You saved the day for me, let me know if you ever need some cnc time on it when it is done.

Also, heres a few pictures I took the other day.

The parts went out in the mail this noon. The post office said you should get them tomorrow.

It looks like you're making good progress, keep it up.

Alan

flyon
10-20-2007, 04:05 PM
Got the parts a little bit ago. Alan, you do first class work. Heading out to HD to pickup some 6-32x3/4 screws. With some luck maybe I can get the z axis sitting on the y axis today. Then maybe the y and z on the x axis rails tomorrow.

Flyon

flyon
10-22-2007, 02:29 PM
I got a few things finished this weekend. I was able to put together the z axis. The z axis is solid, there is no play at all in that thing. I also disassembled the y axis, then blued the rails.

I kept hearing some noice coming from the boxes. I thought the boxes are sort of like a guitars noice camber. So, I wanted to try and damping it. I picked up some expanding foam and sprayed the lower and upper gantry boxes. After the foamed dried I knocked on the boxes and the hollow was gone from them, but I still heard the noice, it was coming from the big x base torsion box. So I think I'm going to try and spray inside the x box tonight.

It will still play sweet music, just quietly.

Flyon

nlancaster
10-22-2007, 09:00 PM
flyon, just becarefull not to fill those too fast. start in the center and work out. Because the expanding foam can blow your torsion box glue joints apart and or warp the table itself. Did you get the low expansion foam designed for around doorways? If so you shouldnt have to worry abou the foam blowing your glue joints open.

TCGliderguy
10-22-2007, 09:22 PM
Oweeee! You're scaring me with that spray-on urethane foam. The stuff is hygroscopic (that means it absorbs moisture when the humidity goes up....) and when it absorbs moisture, it expands.... It can do BAD things if it is in an enclosed structure.....

Be careful with the stuff.... Just a word of warning...

-Taylor

flyon
10-31-2007, 05:17 PM
I was going to wait till I had my picture, but I'll post about, then post the picture latter tonight.

In the last week or so I able to get the x pipes polished/blued and installed. I then rebuilt the Y gantry and put it on. I ran the x drive screw thru and the holes didn't match up right. I then figured out I mount the gantry wrong. Took it off spun it around 180 ( the adjustable skates were on the wrong side). Then the drive screw when thru fine.

I then tried to install the Y drive screw. I went thru one side of the gantry, thru the backlash screw on the z shuttle then thru the other side of the gantry. Here's the problem, The screw is not in the center of hole of the other side, so when I put the bearing on the screw, the bearing will not fit in the plastic holder. It's about quarter inch high, and to the right. I'll get some pictures of it up tonight.

I didn't think of it last night, but I'm thinking I can maybe adjust it using the top screws of the z shuttle and "move" the alignment around. I'll review everything else tonight and figure out if I screwed up somewhere in building the z axis, I sure hope not.

Flyon

calgrdnr
10-31-2007, 07:57 PM
Hello Flyon

I hand similar problem when I built mine. It turned

out to be alignments of the holes in one of my angles

were off ( Z-Axis carrage). I made a template from

steel, then redrilledboth angles everything aligned and

adjust great after that.

Good luck Kent

flyon
11-01-2007, 01:11 AM
I didn't want to hear that. At least it's a place to start to fix the problem. Here are some pictures.

joecnc2006
11-01-2007, 08:24 AM
I didn't want to hear that. At least it's a place to start to fix the problem. Here are some pictures.

I would try adjusting the Z-Axis carriage 1st, making sure it is still sq.

Joe

calgrdnr
11-01-2007, 05:07 PM
Hate to say it.Thats what mine looked like. You can try adjust it out . but more then likely you wont be able to get your Z-axis squared up. That is the problem I had. I spent a few hours adjusting and didn't get it to work.

I spent much less time making template, redrilling and then it adjusted real quick. at least the rough adjustment. I played with fine tuning too long, so finally I loosened the zaxis adjustment bolts, put in a .75 End Mill adjusted Zaxis screw till the router bit/router made the bottom bearings touch the lower pipe, then finger tightened the bolts. so the top bearings were touching all four to the pipes. I then brought zaxis screw as little as possible and used feeler gages to tweak to acceptable level.

good luck I hope you can do it with out redrilling ( if you did it right first time you won't need to ) mine were only off a little bit. but it was enough to cause major misalighment.

Agian hope you did better then I did with first settup and it aligns from the adjustment bolts

Kent

nlancaster
11-01-2007, 10:32 PM
Does the Carriage bind at the other end of the y-axis? or just at this end? If it binds at the other end maybe your carriage is to far back on the y-axis rails. Or the y-axis AB nut is installed wrong? If it binds only at the one end that would be that you have a bent screw. infact if you spin the screw does the end move around or stay in one position?

looks like you are almost ready to start cutting!

nick

flyon
11-02-2007, 02:31 PM
It looks like the problem went away. I'm guessing its either because the screw itself was bending in the middle when I had the carriage at the far end the screw was 'bending' up then higher on the outside of gantry causing my problem. Maybe if I tried to install the screw with carriage on the supported side I wouldn't of seen this issue. Or it's because when I squared up the z carriage with screws on top and that moved the hole down and inline. But now anyways all the holes are level.

I now have all the drive screws installed. All I need now is some wire and limit switches and I'm in business. I should have that in the next few days. I'm going to spend the weekend on finding or building a table.

Flyon

acondit
11-02-2007, 03:09 PM
It is great to hear that things are going better.

Alan

flyon
11-05-2007, 02:02 PM
I spent the weekend running allthread thru all the holes. I also found a used workbench/desk on craigslist for $55. They're even going to deliver it in the next day or two. The desk has acouple drawers, which I'm thinking of using to house all the electronics in. I'm still waiting on the limit switches and wire.

I did run into one issue. I used a drill to jog the x axis and discovered some binding about a foot of the end of the table. After removing the screw and sighting thru the hole, it looks like the hole in the lower gantry is high and right. The gantry glides no problem without the drive screw. I'm thinking of removing and rotating the lower gantry 180 and see if that fixes anything. It would put the AB nut in the middle then on one end. I also need to check if I'm out of square somewhere.


Flyon

BobF
11-05-2007, 02:11 PM
In your picture above, it looks like you have the gantry rotated 180. The side with the short pipe supports should go toward the adjusters. If you reverse it, there is about a 1 inch offset of the leadscrew hole.

joecnc2006
11-05-2007, 03:10 PM
Thomas the Train.

flyon
11-05-2007, 03:32 PM
BobF - I shouldn't of posted that picture, the picture was before I rotated the gantry. I didn't notice the gantry was on backward till I till "tried" to run the screw. And your right if you do mount it backward you'll know because the leadscrew hole will be off center. I'll know more tonight about my current issue tonight after I take a closer look at everything and maybe remove the gantry. BTW, I've been watching your build and it's looking really nice. I really like the paint job. I should of painted mine, the white paint makes any dirt look noticeable.

Joe - Yep that's Thomas up there. I might end up with a MyLittle Pony and a Thomas the Train mascot.

Flyon

flyon
11-05-2007, 05:53 PM
Just heard that I have a package waiting for me. It should be the wires and limit switches. I'm almost there. Hopefully I can get my x axis issue fixed and hook up the switches in the next few days. Then I move it to its new table then hook up the computer then watch chips fly.

Flyon

acondit
11-14-2007, 10:51 PM
Hey Flyon,

What's happening? You have been awful quiet lately.

Alan

flyon
11-15-2007, 03:09 PM
Well I can say that it's all all put together except the limit switches. The only problem now is its still waiting for a home. The metal desk that I picked up, it has a removeable top thats particle board and its warped(of course). So I've been waiting for payday(today) to run and get a new top for the desk. I was thinking 1" MDF would make a nice top, but maybe there is better choice. Maybe a counter top, or something like that.

I have all the electronics mounted in the top drawer for easy access. If I can get the new desk top today. I'm looking at this weekend for doing my first cuts.

Also, I been doing alot of playing around with software trying to narrow down my choices.

Flyon

flyon
11-26-2007, 02:26 PM
I still haven't got my limit switches installed yet, the ones I got are N/O types and I wondering if I should switch to N/C'ed types. But, I did spent afew hours this weekend running and hooking up the motor wires. I able now to drive the motor in all three axis via Mach. I did put a pencil in the router and was able to draw the roadrunner that is included with Mach, atleast the first 1000 lines of it. I still haven't purhased it yet. I'm going to let EMC2 have a go tonight and try it out with the machine.

It's scary the first few times you run some gcode, had my mouse on the reset button the whole time. I would feel alot better if I had a stop switch and my limits hooked up before I try any real cuts.

Flyon

acondit
11-26-2007, 04:08 PM
Flyon,

First off, Congratulations.

I would definitely suggest switching to the N/C type switches.

The newest iteration of emc2 has a stepper configuration wizard. It hasn't been trouble free yet though. I tried using to set up my machine and two of the three axii wouldn't work with the files that it generated (although they do work with my hand generated ini files). I am going to compare the hand generated file with the machine generated file and see what went wrong. It could just be the choices that I made in the configuration process.

Every time I run a new file, I offset it up in the air first to see if it does what I expect before I let it try cutting. Maybe there will come a time when I am sure enough of my code and the machine to run something on first try but for now caution is a virtue.

Alan

flyon
11-27-2007, 05:11 PM
I loaded up EMC2 last night. It booted right off the CD. I used the Configuration Wizard, my wiring matched EMC2 defaults so I didn't have to change anything. I'm using 200 step motors with 8 micro steps (1600 steps per revolution). Not sure this is good/right. I notice that my motors hum sometimes in some positions. Maybe this is a micro step issue? Anyways, within afew minutes I had EMC2 up and drawing some gcode. Since I'm using a pencil in my router, I had to be careful about 'cutting' into the scrap mdf board I had. Afew times it pushed the pencil down so hard it push the router 'up' in router mount.

I'm about to order some new limit switches, I also might order some new wire for the limit switches. I wired up some extra phone cable I had laying around, don't think it's shielded. I might want to replace it for the limit switches.

Also is it normal for the stepper motors to get hot...really hot? Should I turn the amp's down? I think I'm using 47 volts at 2 amps right now

Flyon

acondit
11-27-2007, 05:51 PM
I loaded up EMC2 last night. It booted right off the CD. I used the Configuration Wizard, my wiring matched EMC2 defaults so I didn't have to change anything. I'm using 200 step motors with 8 micro steps (1600 steps per revolution). Not sure this is good/right. I notice that my motors hum sometimes in some positions. Maybe this is a micro step issue? Anyways, within afew minutes I had EMC2 up and drawing some gcode. Since I'm using a pencil in my router, I had to be careful about 'cutting' into the scrap mdf board I had. Afew times it pushed the pencil down so hard it push the router 'up' in router mount.

I'm about to order some new limit switches, I also might order some new wire for the limit switches. I wired up some extra phone cable I had laying around, don't think it's shielded. I might want to replace it for the limit switches.

Also is it normal for the stepper motors to get hot...really hot? Should I turn the amp's down? I think I'm using 47 volts at 2 amps right now

Flyon

I am not familiar with the Keling drivers. But resonance is a common problem with steppers. A few guys have built dampers to deal with the resonance problem. The Gecko drives supposedly deal with the resonance electronically.

The steppers do get hot over time. Mine seem to get hotter just sitting than they do running. But I don't think that they should get so hot that you can't hold your hand on them. When you say really hot, over 100°C?

The amps should be set to match the specs for the motors (amps per phase).

Alan

joecnc2006
11-27-2007, 05:55 PM
Yes when they are in brake mode the steppers will get hotter, the spec sheet of the drivers show a max. 50vdc, but typical of 36vdc, I would imagine you are pushing the motors to their max and producing allot of heat (I would verify with keling Tech.) and ask them if backing down the vref to about 70% will help, you probably will not see much difference in performance at top speed.


Edit: This is what the manual says,

For a given motor, higher driver current will make the motor to output more torque, but at the same time causes more heating in the motor and driver. Therefore, output current is generally set to be such that the motor will not overheat for long time operation. Since parallel and serial connections of motor coils will significantly change resulting inductance and resistance, it is therefore important to set driver output current depending on motor phase current, motor leads and connection methods. Phase current rating supplied by motor manufacturer is important in selecting driver current, however the selection also depends on leads and connections.

Joe

joecnc2006
11-27-2007, 06:03 PM
One more note you may want to read up on EMF because the max. 50vdc should include this in the equation, so your actual power supply should be less accordingly.

Joe

flyon
11-27-2007, 06:09 PM
The motors sound good with turning, I'm thinking that if the motor comes to rest in a micro step it has to work harder to hold that position..?? I'll also research what resonance is, I'm not for sure what that means. I think I know what whip means now, it when your drive screw moves up and down right as it's spinning, kind of like a guitar string. It's hard to know what some stuff is till you see it then you can say, yeah ok I get it now. I already have a compression spring to try and fix that. I also have some angle iron for the gantry sides to stiffen it. Guess this means I'm in the adjusting/tuning phase.

Wife wants me to cut some Christmas stuff, I ain't even done and she already wants stuff. Guess I should stop showing her what it can do.

Flyon

nlancaster
12-17-2007, 11:14 PM
Flyon must be having fun playing with his new machine, because I havent seen a post from him in awhile :D

flyon
12-19-2007, 09:42 PM
Been trying to figuring out the process of going from drawings to g-code. Also, been spending time looking through some of the other forums lately. I've also been trying to put together a dust collection system. That has got be to one of the first things you cut. Once you try to cut anything you realize that you need to have a good dust collector.

I just got my normally closed limit switches the other day, and some shielded 2-22 wire. Going to wire them up this weekend.

I have cut a few things to try it out. The first thing was a Merry Christmas sign. It took 4 tries to get it right. The first try I used a 1/4 vbit from a route bit collection I've had for years. I watched it cut for awhile then went in the house, a little while later, I walked into a garage full of smoke. It must of lost some steps and the bit was cutting way to deep and wasn't moving. I lucked out big time. Went out and got a carbide tipped 1/4 vbit. The next try I watched it the whole time, it lost some steps again. Figured out I had set the amps way to low. Set them for 2.2amps and tried again. It did ok, but I tried again with a 5/8 vbit and it was much better.

I'll post some pictures later.
Russ

joecnc2006
12-19-2007, 09:47 PM
I have cut a few things to try it out. The first thing was a Merry Christmas sign. It took 4 tries to get it right. The first try I used a 1/4 vbit from a route bit collection I've had for years. I watched it cut for awhile then went in the house, a little while later, I walked into a garage full of smoke. It must of lost some steps and the bit was cutting way to deep and wasn't moving. I lucked out big time. Went out and got a carbide tipped 1/4 vbit. The next try I watched it the whole time, it lost some steps again. Figured out I had set the amps way to low. Set them for 2.2amps and tried again. It did ok, but I tried again with a 5/8 vbit and it was much better.

I'll post some pictures later.
Russ


One thing you have to be sure of is get good quality bits, cheap bits will hinder the machine.

Joe

flyon
12-28-2007, 01:12 AM
Here are some of pictures of my first few cuts.
1. Merry Christmas - Finally got it to cut. It took 3 or 4 tries.
2. My first cut. You can see it burned the MDF.
3. You can see the dust collector I just built. I haven't used it yet.
4. My wiring job.
5. Wiring.

I've cut some aluminum to mount the limit switches, but still haven't mounted them.

Some of issues were:

Using crappy bits
Amperage on controller was too low
Using too small of a bit for the job
Not having a dust collector
Not thinking I needed a mounting system to hold stuff


Well it looks like I have more stuff to do.

Sbthomas13
12-28-2007, 01:22 AM
Wow, nice work! That looks really great. I can't wait until I can make my first cut! I have found that with MDF, some form of dust collection is definitely a must. The dust from the MDF just gets packed in the grooves and is not healthy for the bit or the cut. But everything looks nice so keep up the good work.

joecnc2006
12-28-2007, 08:35 AM
you may want to make some vertical cuts in the dust skirt to give it some flex when the Z-Axis is descending.

Joe

acondit
12-28-2007, 12:40 PM
Here are some of pictures of my first few cuts.
1. Merry Christmas - Finally got it to cut. It took 3 or 4 tries.
2. My first cut. You can see it burned the MDF.
3. You can see the dust collector I just built. I haven't used it yet.
4. My wiring job.
5. Wiring.

I've cut some aluminum to mount the limit switches, but still haven't mounted them.

Some of issues were:
Using crappy bits
Amperage on controller was too low
Using too small of a bit for the job
Not having a dust collector
Not thinking I needed a mounting system to hold stuff
Well it looks like I have more stuff to do.

More to do but you're getting there. Looking good.

Alan

flyon
01-04-2008, 05:05 PM
Well I don't know why it took so long to install the home/limit switches. I finally hooked up some of the home switches last night. I hit the ref home button in Mach 3 and at first x tried to reference home in positive, so I fixed that with one click in the 'home/limits' menu. Then I hit the ref home button again, and this time it worked. I must say I wish I would of hooked up the home switch earlier. I have my home switches in place, now I need to install the 3 limits switches. I went ahead and just predrilled then screwed my home switches directly into the side of the MDF. I kept playing around with more secure ways but just wanted it done. I will unscrew the screws and apply glue into the holes later. They seem very secure.

I've also started to look how I'm going to hold stuff down. Here are the options I see right now.
1. Rip mdf into 12" strips and lay t-track between them.
2. Mill out slots in MDF and install t-track in slots.
3. Mill out slots and cross slots in MDF and install t-track in slots.
4. Mill out t-track in MDF using t-track bit.
5. Install a vaccum system.

Not sure what I'm going to do yet.
Russ

bp092
01-04-2008, 05:36 PM
Ideally you want a vacuum but that's what everyone wants! I would go with a similar thing as joe is using in his 4x4 now. He posted a photo today. If you're like me I tend to cut in the same general area on my machine 75% of the time. If you wear out one area of the spoil board more than the rest you can simply slide one 12" out instead of replacing the entire thing where you might not be wearing it all out consistently. It's also an easier way of doing it since there is less machining to do, rip screw/bolt down, insert tracks and screw them down.

Nono
01-05-2008, 12:55 PM
Great thread. Sorry I missed it this long

BobF
01-05-2008, 10:48 PM
Well I don't know why it took so long to install the home/limit switches. I finally hooked up some of the home switches last night. I hit the ref home button in Mach 3 and at first x tried to reference home in positive, so I fixed that with one click in the 'home/limits' menu. Then I hit the ref home button again, and this time it worked. I must say I wish I would of hooked up the home switch earlier. I have my home switches in place, now I need to install the 3 limits switches. I went ahead and just predrilled then screwed my home switches directly into the side of the MDF. I kept playing around with more secure ways but just wanted it done. I will unscrew the screws and apply glue into the holes later. They seem very secure.

I've also started to look how I'm going to hold stuff down. Here are the options I see right now.
1. Rip mdf into 12" strips and lay t-track between them.
2. Mill out slots in MDF and install t-track in slots.
3. Mill out slots and cross slots in MDF and install t-track in slots.
4. Mill out t-track in MDF using t-track bit.
5. Install a vaccum system.

Not sure what I'm going to do yet.
Russ


Flyon,
You left out the easiest one. Screw the work to the spoil board. Thats what I have been doing until I get around to creating a proper hold down.

flyon
01-06-2008, 03:31 PM
Flyon,
You left out the easiest one. Screw the work to the spoil board. Thats what I have been doing until I get around to creating a proper hold down.

Hadn't thought of that. When I cut that Christmas sign I used clamps. I had to watch that the gantry didn't hit the clamps. I had a long piece of MDF so it wasn't a problem. I did pick up some double-sided tape. I haven't tried it yet, but had heard of the mess that it creates.

I skimmed the top of the table last night. It was primed before, now its half prime, half bare MDF. I'm thinking of sealing it, or maybe just skimming off all of the primer then using 1 part glue to 1 part water on it. BTW, I used that mix on the Christmas sign and sanded, it created a very flat surface. It felt like cold metal it was so flat. It only took 2 coats if I remember right.

This was also the first time I've used that duct collector fixture. It didn't work that good. The vacuum put the sides in and blocked the port. Got some ideas to improve it.

Russ

BobF
01-06-2008, 06:45 PM
I used 1/2" mdf as my top, so when I cut the top I cut nearly 1/4" off. I then added a second piece of 1/2" to act as the spoil board. I cut it so it would overhang the sides as much as possible to keep dust from the bearings as much as possible.
I haven't come up with a good dust collector design yet. I have seen several on the web and will probably incorporate some ideas from others. I like that this one is easily removable.
http://99.224.51.73/thephillips/PhotoGallery/CncMachine/YetAnotherDustCollector/YetAnotherDustCollector.asp

flyon
02-13-2008, 02:24 PM
My machine has been quiet for about a month, since I've been playing in software more the hardware lately. Last night, I just had to cut something. So I started to cut some simple circle-like shapes and noticed an issue. I think I'm missing some steps, but only the x+ direction. The resulting piece looks like a circle, but with steps going down on the right side. The left side keeps getting cut shorter in each pass. I'll upload a picture tonight which will help explain what I'm talking about.

I was cutting .5 MDF, with a 4 flute HSS spirl cheapy bit from HF. Running at the highest speed, making .1 passes at 100 ipm. The path around the piece what counter-clockwise.

Any ideas? Thanks -Flyon

BobF
02-15-2008, 09:30 AM
I had a loose motor coupler that allowed the motor to turn and not move the screw. It did not loose much at any one time, so I thought I was loosing steps.
Is the machine running smooth? If it seems to jerk you may want to check the CV settings in Mach.
Does it return to the start?

flyon
02-23-2008, 05:46 PM
I had a loose motor coupler that allowed the motor to turn and not move the screw.

I think that was it, nice catch. I tightened it up and haven't noticed any issues.

Thanks,
Flyon

BobF
02-24-2008, 10:49 AM
Glad it helped.
I felt like a dummy when it happened, but looking back, I suppose it could happen to anyone. You get to the point where you are so excited to finally get the machine running some of the obvious things can slip through the cracks.

Consaka
10-13-2015, 08:17 PM
Old post I know but I live in Vancouver as well. I'd love to see this machine. I'm also looking for anyone that has one built for using a plasma cutter. In Vancouver that is.