PDA

View Full Version : Aluminium router build from Drakkn



Drakkn
05-06-2007, 11:22 AM
I have just purchased a steel/aluminium frame in which I am about to start a build ...pictures attached.

Drakkn
05-06-2007, 11:24 AM
Did a little work on the project

The cost of the frame was £35

will keep adding costs and places where I get the parts.

This is a UK build

Drakkn
05-07-2007, 07:27 AM
I have a shopping list for parts

2 carbon steel rods 790mm long
2 carbon steel rods 600mm long
6 flange bearings
8 16mm linear bearings
1 lead screw 12mm o/d 900mm long
1 lead screw 12mm o/d 700mm long
1 lead screw 12mm o/d 350mm long
3 lead screw nuts with flange
3 oldham couplings (lovejoy if you are in USA)
M5 allen bolts cap head ,various lengths
Tin plate 600mm x 100mm
Silver steel for motor mounting rods
2 x 12.7mm x 125mm x 300mm aluminium plate

I must say that the guy who has designed this build (Thanks Harvey) is a really helpful guy.
He is going to do some of the machining for me as I do not have the tools or experience to do some of the jobs.But I think it is going to look like a really strong professional machine.

This is a picture of one of Harveys machines

Greolt
05-07-2007, 08:08 AM
Forgive me if I have jumped in here too quick but this comment is about the design as shown in the pic.

You are going to have trouble driving your X or gantry from one side.

If this is a router or you are pushing any sort of a load at all then racking is going to give you problems for sure.

Also the bearings on the gantry bottom really could do with being spaced a little further apart.

However that is not as much of a concern as only driving the X from one side.

Please don't take this as criticism. Keep us posted with progress. :)

Greg

Drakkn
05-08-2007, 05:08 AM
Hi

Thanks for your comments - I have seen one of these in action and it appears to perform very well - Having said that once I have it made I will know for sure .And if thats the case then at least I will have a cnc machine that is capable in priniciple of making another one with a better design.

All in all I am a guitar maker not an engineer so I am guided by others in this field . I hope actually it turns out ok.

Will keep you posted

Oldmanandhistoy
05-08-2007, 07:26 PM
Hi Drakkin,

I hope this works out well for you as I know you have been after a cnc machine for quite some time now.

Don’t loose sleep over the fact that the x axis is driven from one side only. It looks like a simple enough mod to add another screw to the over side if needed. I would go with how it is for now you may well find that it works out ok. From your shopping list it looks like your gantry is going to be about 600mm wide so will be down to how hard you intend to push your machine.

About the couplers I use these which are the same as lovejoy and recommend them over Oldham as they are easier to use when it comes to aligning screw and stepper motor. http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?N=4294730815&in_dim_search=1&name=SiteStandard&callingPage=/jsp/line/line.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0033178639.1178666290@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccciaddklgfmhedcefeceeldgkidhgi.0&cacheID=ukie&Nr=avl:uk There not cheap but you only buy them once but they are high quality.

Do you have a supplier for lead screws and will you be machining them yourself?

John

Drakkn
05-09-2007, 02:08 PM
Lead screws are coming from marchant dice (ebay) - he will machine the ends for you - but the guy I got the frame from is only 45 mins drive from home and he will do them for me and some of the other machining bits that I cannot do.

I think he will be selling bits on ebay soon

Regards

Tony

Eddiep
05-09-2007, 02:19 PM
I agree with the above poster, you'll almost certainly encounter racking problems driving it from one side. I know first hand, as I had the *exact* same setup on my first machine. Tried everything to get it to work - extra bracing, increasing the distance between the bearings on each side, and so on ... The only solution that worked for me was to add a ball screw to the other side and connect the two screws with a tensioned timing belt - after that, it worked great.


Hi

Thanks for your comments - I have seen one of these in action and it appears to perform very well - Having said that once I have it made I will know for sure .And if thats the case then at least I will have a cnc machine that is capable in priniciple of making another one with a better design.

All in all I am a guitar maker not an engineer so I am guided by others in this field . I hope actually it turns out ok.

Will keep you posted

Drakkn
05-10-2007, 12:38 PM
The aluminium for the Y axis gantry sides and back have turned up today - so at least starting to get the rest of the parts together

Drakkn
05-14-2007, 05:23 PM
I went to the Model Engineering show in Harrogate on sunday and picked up some silver steel rod 10mm dia x 300mm for the standoff for the stepper motors and some limit switches.

Pictures in the morning

Also dropped in on Harvey who designed the machine (took my aluminium side pieces and he machined the holes for the rods/lead screws etc - pictures in the morning.

Also we both put in a joint order to marchant dice for the leadscrews etc - just to save some carriage as I will be off to see Harvey in a week or so's time.

Drakkn
05-14-2007, 05:26 PM
Limit switches 6 for £2.00
6 silver steel rods @ £2.50 each

at the show - will put up suppliers details in the morning

Anyone want a spreadsheet with this info on - please PM me

Drakkn
05-20-2007, 08:26 AM
Anyone have any gcode i could use just to test the motors spining

Oldmanandhistoy
05-20-2007, 09:01 AM
Anyone have any gcode i could use just to test the motors spining

You don't need Gcode just use the Jog buttons:)

John

Drakkn
05-20-2007, 10:37 AM
You don't need Gcode just use the Jog buttons:)

John

Sorry dont understand mach - in any way shape or form so need some help regards Tony

rustamd
05-20-2007, 11:59 AM
If you hit TAB in main screen pendant will pop up and let you jog all axis. To jog full speed hold Shift key. Also you can just hit Load G Code got to C:/Mach3/Gcode and load the famous Roadrunner.tap :)

Drakkn
05-20-2007, 01:15 PM
If you hit TAB in main screen pendant will pop up and let you jog all axis. To jog full speed hold Shift key. Also you can just hit Load G Code got to C:/Mach3/Gcode and load the famous Roadrunner.tap :)

Cheers - will give it a go and see what occurs

Drakkn
05-21-2007, 02:33 PM
I got a controller card and 3 stepper motors from ebay - and I puchased a psu to suit and connected it all up to a dedicated pc - with xp and demo of mach3 installed.
Got the config file for the card and then ran mach 3, 2 of the motors spin but the 3rd does not - no matter which axis it is fitted on - to me that means the motor has a fault - will update further as soon as I can .Unless its not the motor ?? If its not anyone have any ideas.

Drakkn
05-23-2007, 07:01 AM
Motor no 3 - I stripped it down and rebuilt it - funny it then worked but was a bit intermittent in movement - suspected a sticky bearing - seems ok for the moment.

Oldmanandhistoy
05-23-2007, 07:04 AM
Motor no 3 - I stripped it down and rebuilt it - funny it then worked but was a bit intermittent in movement - suspected a sticky bearing - seems ok for the moment.

If you are talking about stripping down a stepper motor; you have very likely destroyed it. This should never be done as discussed else where on the Zone

John

Drakkn
05-24-2007, 05:52 PM
Hi

Thanks for the reply - It was not completely stripped down - one end of the motor was removed and the moving part was removed and inspected then put back in the casing.Which made it work afterwards - conclusion when turning both the bearings one of them felt a little sticky for a short time .Hope that clarifies things - if by doing this causes the motor to fail then its my inexperience with motors to blame.As they say you live and learn.:confused:

Jason Marsha
05-24-2007, 11:10 PM
If the rotor is removed the stepper generally loses about half (or a significant amount) of its torque according to others who have done this. I also read that this process does not affect servo's due to the type of magnet used in their construction.
NB. I am not sure about the accuracy of these statements, just passing on info I have read

Jason

Drakkn
05-26-2007, 08:20 AM
If the rotor is removed the stepper generally loses about half (or a significant amount) of its torque according to others who have done this. I also read that this process does not affect servo's due to the type of magnet used in their construction.
NB. I am not sure about the accuracy of these statements, just passing on info I have read

Jason

Thanks for the info Jason - If what you say turns out to be correct I will put the motor on the Z axis - guess this axis has to do less work for what I will be making.

thuffner3
06-10-2007, 07:10 AM
Morning Drakkn,
Seems that a few posters are concerned about racking issues?
I would be as well. If another leadscrew setup is not an option.
Check out how a parralell rule works. You could very easily set up pulleys at either end and an 1/8" cable to work the other side.

JM2C
Peace

Drakkn
06-10-2007, 11:29 AM
Cheers for the info

Once I get to the testing stage I will update the forum .I would think that its not too difficult a job with another lead screw if required.Its not a budget thing - its because I purchased a part started machine.

Drakkn
07-07-2007, 10:24 AM
Sorry no posts for a while - I have been very busy and not had the time to do anything - I have a week off work now - so will attempt to do some more work on my project.

Now is the time for me to work out how I am going to do the z axis

Will update asap

dodgy74
07-07-2007, 02:13 PM
Morning Drakkn,
Seems that a few posters are concerned about racking issues?
I would be as well. If another leadscrew setup is not an option.
Check out how a parralell rule works. You could very easily set up pulleys at either end and an 1/8" cable to work the other side.

JM2C
Peace

I was wondering if this wouldn't work myself. I've used this system before on entertainment center doors and even adapted a large version to a floor to ceiling pull out pantry I installed in a customers house that was having trouble sagging. Fully loaded, it weighed about 300lbs and was 7ft tall. Setting up the cable system totally eliminated any varience top to bottom. It didn't matter where you pulled on the door, it would come out just as easily and stay square and true the entire 24in. extention.

Looks great though, keep up the good work.
David

Drakkn
07-13-2007, 02:55 PM
Have done some more work today with Harveys help.Have got the x axis rods and leadscrew made and installed , also have the y axis rods and lead screws installed - when the camera is charged up will take some pictures and add them here - Now I need to order the oldham couplings (lovejoy in usa) and sort out the spacers for my stepper motors - and then think about the design for the z axis.

No rest for the wicked

Drakkn
07-14-2007, 09:27 AM
Ok - here we go with some pictures of what the build looks like as os saturday 14/7/07 14.25 hrs

Oldmanandhistoy
07-14-2007, 10:22 AM
Hi

Coming along nicely :)

Where do you plan to buy your couplers?

John

Drakkn
07-14-2007, 10:44 AM
Hi John

Marchant dice seems to be the guys to supply the couplers - however routoutcnc.com will supply also and bore the Internal diameters to what you need ,for in my case the theaded rod od is 8 mm and the stepper motor is about 6mm. If you buy from marchant they are about £18 with carriage or routout £22 with the boring done for you .

Oldmanandhistoy
07-14-2007, 11:44 AM
Hi John

Marchant dice seems to be the guys to supply the couplers - however routoutcnc.com will supply also and bore the Internal diameters to what you need ,for in my case the theaded rod od is 8 mm and the stepper motor is about 6mm. If you buy from marchant they are about £18 with carriage or routout £22 with the boring done for you .

Thanks for that and good luck with the rest of your build :)

John

Drakkn
07-14-2007, 12:43 PM
By the way where are you located oldmanhistory - always nice to try and meet cnc people - they all seem so interesting - for example the guy who is helping me is a miniature model maker - does some fantastic stuff as well.

Drakkn
07-29-2007, 12:08 PM
Well found some more time today as the dear lady is watching Big Brother I thought off we go into the workshop.

So made some little brackets to stop the guide rods from coming off

Also did the X and Y axis lead screw and coupler setups and tested them with my drill chuck on the end of each and both axis move very well.

And ordered the oldham couplings from marchant dice ,also found my silver rods so that they can be cut up for stand offs for the stepper motors.

The oldham couplings will have to have the id bored out on one side to the correct diameter.

Then I am going to have to work out how the heck I am going to do the rest of the Z axis - any offers on this one ?

Also a few more pictures for the blog.

Drakkn
07-30-2007, 11:50 AM
Stole another couple of hours in the workshop - made another part for the Z axis , this is the making it up as you go along with all the bits and pieces you can get from your scrap bin ,and stuff people give you. I have some very strong drawer type rails that are about to join the mix.It is quite difficult for me because my gear is all woodwork related - so working with aluminium is a bit of a challenge.However it has given me a new found respect for all of you engineers out there.You tool costs must be absolutely ridiculous.My hat goes off to you guys.

Anyway drilled holes for the lead screw and its little bearings and mounted the piece onto the main bit of the Z axis.

Picture attached

Drakkn
08-06-2007, 01:11 PM
Did some more work today on the Z axis - I have fitted the lead screw and bearings either end - But did not have any linear slides so I had a eureka moment (or maybe not - only time and testing will tell) I needed to keep the plate strait but it was moving in an arc from left to right as you look face on.So I mounted a pair of skate bearings on the block and this has stopped the movement from side.This will allow me to get my machine up and running soon.Then if I have too - I can use the machine to make a better Z axis,anyway a couple of pictures to show what I have done.I am not an engineer so there maybe some good reasons why I should not have done what I have just done.

harryn
08-06-2007, 05:40 PM
The skate bearings are a petty creative solution. They take up load from several directions, but not all of course. I am definitely not an expert, but the lead screw may not be happy for many miles (Kms):) I would be tempted to try it to keep things moving on the project, knowing it needs further upgrade of course.

Drakkn
08-06-2007, 07:27 PM
The skate bearings are a petty creative solution. They take up load from several directions, but not all of course. I am definitely not an expert, but the lead screw may not be happy for many miles (Kms):) I would be tempted to try it to keep things moving on the project, knowing it needs further upgrade of course.

Thanks for the above comment - just a question as you can work out by now that I am no engineer - why might the lead screw not be happy ?

ZipSnipe
08-07-2007, 04:23 AM
I,ve never known an unhappy leadscrew !

harryn
08-09-2007, 03:16 AM
Pretend for a minute that your lead screw is made from very flexible rubber instead of steel. The bearings you have mounted will prevent it from rotating into the metal frame.

The bearings do not prevent the assembly from rocking side to side, which I (think) is what the router will try to do when it spins.

The other area that is not supported is the weight of the router, and its upward force when it is being pushed into the wood to cut. If I properly understand your assembly, the bearings will have no substantial support effect on the very outboard router. The lead screw will be carrying all of the side load.

My simplistic understanding of lead screws is that they are very good at motion / force in particular directions, but will wear unevenly if the screw is twisted / canted. I hope this makes sense. Of couse, I am just a beginner, so I could well be wrong here.

Drakkn
08-09-2007, 05:02 AM
Hi Harryn

Thanks for the comments - I think I understand what you mean.

I will do some testing today by attaching a chuck from my battery powered drill and check to see if the lead screw moves the block up and down - and see if there is any sideways movement.I have noticed on other builds that there seem to be either 2 rods with pillow blocks or drawer type slides - I thought that these are to aid in keeping the unit straight as it moves up and down therefore stopping sideways movement ,my idea was to use the bearings to stop the sideways movement .If it does not work then I will have to bite the bullet and spend some more money on a more traditional layout - but trying not to spend too much money on the project as I do not have much paying work coming in at the moment.

Drakkn
08-09-2007, 12:51 PM
Have tested Z axis using the drill chuck - axis moves fine to me ,also attached all the motors now - will test them this evening.

Drakkn
08-09-2007, 04:25 PM
Have connected psu and driver card to my pc - setup and tested x and y axis - after a few slight aligment problems both axis are running smooth.Z axis will be another day

crocky
08-11-2007, 08:07 PM
Looking good now :)

Bob

acondit
08-11-2007, 11:55 PM
Tony,

I may be mistaken but it looks to me like you put the end plates on your stepper on the wrong ends. The Mounting flange should have the shaft through it, shouldn't it?

Alan

Drakkn
08-12-2007, 11:01 AM
Tony,

I may be mistaken but it looks to me like you put the end plates on your stepper on the wrong ends. The Mounting flange should have the shaft through it, shouldn't it?

Alan

Hi

Thanks for the comment - thats how they came to me via ebay - they work though except the z axis at present - still trying to work out if the motor is not much good or I have got something out of alignment - as they do not have a very good specification.

tgreening
09-03-2007, 11:13 AM
Have tested Z axis using the drill chuck - axis moves fine to me ,also attached all the motors now - will test them this evening.


I believe you are going to run into trouble with your z axis on a couple of different levels. Your lead screw should be doing nothing at all except providing the movement for your axis. In you setup it has to provide movement, and support to the router in all 3 axis of movement. When you are cutting in such a fashion that the router is being forced against the back wall of the c-channel your mount is made from your skate bearings will supply support. When you reverse the direction of your cut that will no longer be the case. Drag on your cutter will try to pull everything away from that back wall and there is nothing to counteract this force except the lead screw. Change your axis of movement from forward/back to side to side and there is no support in either direction. Up/down movement will subject the lead screw to twisting forces rather than side loads but the ultimate net affect is the same, premature wear of your leadscrew and/or backlash nuts. Of course that is if you can get it functioning much at all. The reason I say that is because one of the things stepper motors are not fond of is misalignment. That is why you spend the extra money for those fancy couplers. Misalignment means binding and what will happen you when you start side loading your leadscrew? I believe you are going to have stalling issues with your motors.

Of course some of the problem can be mitigated by slowing down your cutting speed and lessening the load on your leadscrew but no matter how you slice it, it's not the way to go.

Drakkn
09-03-2007, 12:39 PM
I believe you are going to run into trouble with your z axis on a couple of different levels. Your lead screw should be doing nothing at all except providing the movement for your axis. In you setup it has to provide movement, and support to the router in all 3 axis of movement. When you are cutting in such a fashion that the router is being forced against the back wall of the c-channel your mount is made from your skate bearings will supply support. When you reverse the direction of your cut that will no longer be the case. Drag on your cutter will try to pull everything away from that back wall and there is nothing to counteract this force except the lead screw. Change your axis of movement from forward/back to side to side and there is no support in either direction. Up/down movement will subject the lead screw to twisting forces rather than side loads but the ultimate net affect is the same, premature wear of your leadscrew and/or backlash nuts. Of course that is if you can get it functioning much at all. The reason I say that is because one of the things stepper motors are not fond of is misalignment. That is why you spend the extra money for those fancy couplers. Misalignment means binding and what will happen you when you start side loading your leadscrew? I believe you are going to have stalling issues with your motors.

Of course some of the problem can be mitigated by slowing down your cutting speed and lessening the load on your leadscrew but no matter how you slice it, it's not the way to go.


Cheers for the comments

I have been looking at the Z axis for a while - I used what I had available to make it but on reflection and the fact that the z axis motor will not move anything when in the vertical position has made me re think - so probably will end up buying some rods and linear slides for the job when I have some spare cash - probably after our house move in a few weeks time.

yohudi
09-03-2007, 08:25 PM
Cheers for the comments

I have been looking at the Z axis for a while - I used what I had available to make it but on reflection and the fact that the z axis motor will not move anything when in the vertical position has made me re think - so probably will end up buying some rods and linear slides for the job when I have some spare cash - probably after our house move in a few weeks time.

If I had to fix this I would look at turning the C into a box... add some 10mm - 15mm plate to each side of the C section. They could easily sit on the inside of the C on each side. Secure through each end and I wouldnt worry about fitting to the curves of the C... should be strong enough without.

If you fitted as described plate edge would sit below the back face of your Z slide and would be the ideal place for some small linear guide rails.. thk rsr12vm (vertical mount capable) or something similar.

Could machine slots in C endplates to allow for alignment etc. Would be stiff in all directions then.. or at least a LOT stiffer and Z slide would have required support, is not that much work and keeps a lot of what does work. Would also be very similar to my own.. which has given me no problem at all..

hope this is of help....

Drakkn
09-04-2007, 09:47 AM
Seems a very good idea - I have found some short rails which maybe I can use.will do some experimenting in a week or so's time when we have moved house.

Drakkn
10-06-2007, 01:18 PM
Well we have now moved into the new house - so in the process of sorting out the workshop - all of a sudden it appears to have a load of stuff in it that cant find a home in the house ah well.

Drakkn
10-12-2007, 03:57 AM
OK cleared some space in the new garage/workshop , re read the comments about my Z axis and have ordered http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=190162179700&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=009
to fit my machine - once it arrives I can make a mount for my trend router - then purchase a bit and do some testing and setup the machine with mach3 ,plus need to sort out an emergency stop and find those limit switches I purchased ages ago.

Comments re the new z axis from ebay would be appreciated.

yohudi
10-13-2007, 02:56 AM
OK cleared some space in the new garage/workshop , re read the comments about my Z axis and have ordered http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=190162179700&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=009
to fit my machine - once it arrives I can make a mount for my trend router - then purchase a bit and do some testing and setup the machine with mach3 ,plus need to sort out an emergency stop and find those limit switches I purchased ages ago.

Comments re the new z axis from ebay would be appreciated.

Hi there... took a look at the link to ebay.... looks ok from the pics... only thing that made me question anything was wooden\MDF construction but doesn't mean to say it won't be perfectly OK.. Should beat the problems you had with the other one... and at least get you going...

You mention an EStop... what do you need in terms of that..? If it's just the EStop Switch and box to house it... I have a few of those ...let me know... sure we could work something out...

ttfn

Yohudi

all the best

Drakkn
10-13-2007, 05:32 AM
Hi there... took a look at the link to ebay.... looks ok from the pics... only thing that made me question anything was wooden\MDF construction but doesn't mean to say it won't be perfectly OK.. Should beat the problems you had with the other one... and at least get you going...

You mention an EStop... what do you need in terms of that..? If it's just the EStop Switch and box to house it... I have a few of those ...let me know... sure we could work something out...

ttfn

Yohudi

all the best

Hi Yohudi - let me have some info re the estop and we can do some sort of deal - I like to trade skills etc if at all possible.
I will use the purchased z axis until i make an aluminium version - short of cash at the moment as we have just moved house to Athersley which is near to barnsley.
Hopefully I can get my business going - I make guitars and speaker cabinets - thats what the cnc machine is going to be used for.

Drakkn
10-21-2007, 07:55 PM
Hi Yohudi got any info re the estop for me , my stuff for z axis will be here soon so almost near the end of the build.

yohudi
10-21-2007, 11:14 PM
Hi Yohudi got any info re the estop for me , my stuff for z axis will be here soon so almost near the end of the build.

Hi.. yep..

I've got about 3 of the estops in the pic floating about.. If it's ok let me know and we'll sort out some kind of trade.. can't remeber what I paid for these but will have a note of it somewhere.. was about 1/2 of what they cost I think.. maybe a bit less..

let me know and we'll sort something out...

ttfn

Danny
(aka Yohudi)

Drakkn
10-22-2007, 04:24 AM
Hi.. yep..

I've got about 3 of the estops in the pic floating about.. If it's ok let me know and we'll sort out some kind of trade.. can't remeber what I paid for these but will have a note of it somewhere.. was about 1/2 of what they cost I think.. maybe a bit less..

let me know and we'll sort something out...

ttfn

Danny
(aka Yohudi)

Hi

Looks fine to me - lets sort something out

regards

Tony

Drakkn
11-03-2007, 07:08 AM
The z axis stuff has been sent just waiting for it to arrive from atheocnc

yohudi
11-03-2007, 11:29 AM
Tony...

Check your PM

Danny

Drakkn
11-15-2007, 01:48 PM
Stuff has arrived from atheocnc , just need to get myself organised and get the job finished ,yohudi give me a call or PM me please

Drakkn
11-18-2007, 09:36 AM
Need to make a few changes on the z axis to fit onto my pillow blocks and then I need to make a mounting for my trend router - hook it all up and set the limit switches - and when I sort the e stop with yohudi guess I will be able to have a go at making something simple.

Drakkn
11-18-2007, 09:37 AM
Oh yes - I forgot - also need to get another oldham coupling to fit onto the thread of the new z axis - different bore to the one I made earlier.

Drakkn
12-04-2007, 04:47 PM
Have fitted the oldham coupling and attached the router to a makeshift HDPE mounting and guess what everything moves.
Sorted out the cabling - wil; do mach3 setup over next few days and do a test cut.Will post some pictures once I have found the camera.

Drakkn
12-05-2007, 07:13 AM
I have fitted the coupling and my machine is now in the testing stage ,when I find the camera I will post some pictures.

yohudi
12-06-2007, 11:42 AM
Hi Tony..

glad to hear your in motion and getting ready to cut.. looking forward to the pics...

ttfn

Danny...

Drakkn
12-06-2007, 11:53 AM
Cheers Danny

Forgot I also need to buy and end mill to do the cutting with - so as soon as I find something will finish the setup and start using ,wierd thing is I told someone about the machine and they want me to make some of those fancy sentral heating radiator covers - but I dont think I can do it because my work area will not be big enough

Drakkn
12-19-2007, 11:47 AM
A couple of end mills have just arrived - too damn cold to go into the workshop today.
Will go in tomorrow and fit an endmill - and see what occurs - now looking for a bit of g code to try some simple stuff.

yohudi
12-19-2007, 09:29 PM
A couple of end mills have just arrived - too damn cold to go into the workshop today.
Will go in tomorrow and fit an endmill - and see what occurs - now looking for a bit of g code to try some simple stuff.


Hi there Tony...

glad to hear your getting ready to cut something....

if you're looking for gcode to cut then try the website in my sig... loads of FREE simple models available via the links page.. and the FREE software to get it to GCode on a page at the site...

failing that you could use a pic to generate an engraving or photo-carving path in CamBam without too much problem... links at the site.. and info about using CamBam in the forum area...

hope this helps

Danny

Drakkn
01-07-2008, 12:03 PM
Well fitted an end mill to my router

And ran up mach 3 and did a freehand cut - wow it works.
Had a couple of little problems
Firstly the endmill slowly dropped out of the router and gouged a depp hole it my test piece, undeterred I tightened it up and tried again - same thing happened - but not as bad - tightened even more - did a cut and it was fine until the very end - the cut was not as deep as the rest so I think my board was not quite flat.

But definited progress

Drakkn
01-09-2008, 07:23 PM
Here it is the video of the first cut - very short as videocam power died

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/aD8WMKN_8Yc"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/aD8WMKN_8Yc" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

Not much to look at bit the accuracy is there.

Drakkn
01-14-2008, 06:57 AM
Did some more work on the machine - on the z axis - will convert it all to aluminium as soon as I can as the hdpe appears to flex slightly.

Drakkn
05-08-2008, 03:25 AM
Finally got around to doing some work on the machine - have a few issues to resolve like flexing of z axis and holding down the work but here is a picture of the first true cut - did out of MDF but will soon do an aluminium version. Lots of things to get going in my head now learn cad and mach3 properly and even make a guitar or two.

yohudi
05-08-2008, 05:39 PM
Hi there Tony,

glad to see you're making progress... nothing like seeing it do the first proper cut...

keep it up

Danny

Drakkn
05-08-2008, 08:09 PM
Hi there Tony,

glad to see you're making progress... nothing like seeing it do the first proper cut...

keep it up

Danny

Cheers for that - now once I have the ally z axis sorted then we can get going

Drakkn
12-31-2009, 12:15 PM
Well here we are 31st December 2009 - And I have still not done the z axis in aluminium and what's more annoying - never found the time during 2009 to do anything with the machine.I vow to get it done during jan/feb as I will soon have to start using it to make some cash as all my IT work has gone and nothing on the horizon for 2010 - Cash is low , playing with the band is on the up , a few orders for flightcases on the way - so I guess it's timme to get on with it and make a name for myself in manufacturing custom stuff.

Tony

Drakkn
06-19-2011, 02:19 PM
Hi Guys

My machine partly disassembled has been moved from workshop to workshop and has got a little rusty is currently sitting in my workshop not being used as I need something a bit bigger.So with reluctance I am putting it up for sale on here , I have loads of exxtra steppers etc to throw in.So before it goes on ebay I thought I would give it a mention on here. You can email drakkncustomshop@gmail.com if you need more info.