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edmond
04-26-2007, 04:46 AM
Hi all.
I am starting my buildup on a Lionclaw LC50 CNC Router.I have ordered the pipe, bearings and a HobbyCNC driver board that I am picking up today.I have drawn up all the parts from the E drawings file Andy provided, they are in DXF format.Has anyone built this machine.

edmond
04-27-2007, 07:17 AM
My HobbyCNC Driver Board arrived yesterday, so I spent this morning soldering it together everything went smoothly, it realy is a nice kit.Still busy laying out and modifing some of the parts to metric sizes.Im on a really tight budget with this buildup so its going to take a good few months.Im going to order the necessary bearings and Z axis linear bearings next week from VXB and hopefully collect the pipe next week as well.

BobLWeiss
05-02-2007, 02:07 PM
I built one a couple of months ago. I didn't have access to a CNC machine at the time so I cut the parts out using woodworking tools in my shop. I can tell you that I am very pleased with the machine and the design is awesome!

Good luck with yours.

Bob

edmond
05-03-2007, 01:24 AM
Hi Bob

What materials do you cut on your lionclaw machine, would it be suitable for some light aluminium cutting.I am battling to get Birch Veneer Plywood here in South Africa what else can I use in its place.I ordered the bearings for the leadscrews and some linear bearing bushings for the z axis on monday from VXB.com they are so much cheaper than buying them locally.
Thanks for the encouragement

Edmond

BobLWeiss
05-03-2007, 08:22 AM
Hello Edmond,

I used 1/2" MDF and 1/2" Birch Plywood. Its easy to get here at Home Depot but not sure how easy it is for you. See if you can get MDF. That would work just fine.

Yes, the machine will handle light aluminum work as long as your router is good enough and you have the right bits.

Post some pictures as you go...its nice to see other people's builds.

Bob

edmond
05-03-2007, 09:38 AM
Hi Bob

Thanks I will use 12mm MDF, I can get 15mm Birch Plywood but its expensive and I would have to modify all the drawings.I plan on using a 1.25 hp router to begin with until I can afford a 3.25hp Porter Cable Router Motor.Will post the pics as soon as I get going.Im going to try get the MDF this weekend.Im going to cut everything on a Multicam CNC Router at my work so that will make life easier.I plan on cutting wood, acrylic and aluminium on this machine.

Thanks
Edmond

edmond
05-08-2007, 01:12 AM
I bought all the nuts and bolts this past weekend for my buildup, still need to get some threaded rod in 2m lengths, I will have to special order it as 1m lengths are the standard length in South Africa.The Black gas pipe is arriving today, I actually managed to locate it in the 21.3mm and 33.7mm sizes locally here.My bearings should be arriving next week.I will be getting the wood at the end of the month, my finances are a bit low at the moment.Will post pics as soon as my buildup starts.

Cheers
Edmond

edmond
05-12-2007, 09:35 AM
The black pipe arrived on wednesday, still must trim it to size.I also got the rest of the fasteners and some HDPE, PVC and Acetal offcuts from a friend who works at a engineering plastics retailer.I need to make some anti backlash nuts, does anyone have a good design for some ABN. I can cut them out of acetal and use a homemade tap to thread them and incorporate some kind of spring into them maybe. I can only found 12mm ACME Rod with a 3mm pitch locally, its expensive about $50 a metre.Also what couplings can I use for the motor to leadscrew connections I can get Lovejoy couplings here but they work out to about $45 a coupling.Can I make some couplings out of Acetal rather.Also can I use 12mm French Marine Plywood its made out of Okoume wood, I can't find any 12mm Birch Ply locally and I dont want to use MDF.

Thanks
Edmond

edmond
05-17-2007, 01:04 AM
Yesterday I cut some of the motor spacers and bearing supports at work on a Multicam CNC Router, I used 12mm clear cast perspex.My bearings have arrived at the post office will fetch them after work on friday.I still need som info on how to make the Anti Backlash Nuts.

Edmond

tajord
05-17-2007, 10:25 AM
what speeds and feed rate di you use on that perspex, do you get and melting?

edmond
05-17-2007, 10:55 AM
I used a single flute 6mm carbide cutter running at 18000 rpm and 50mm/sec feed with 3 passes.No melting problems as the Multicam CNC Router has a mister unit, so I use water in it when I cut plastics.They cut with a very good finish providing you use water

Edmond

tajord
05-18-2007, 05:54 AM
Thanks for the info, only prob is, i have a jgro and i can't use water with that seeing it is made of MDF, but it's good to know still in any event.

edmond
05-18-2007, 03:59 PM
I picked up the bearings today.I am using 20mm ID linear bearing bushes for the Z axis.I assembled the bearing blocks, but I must still cut the Z axis bearing support.Anyone got some ideas on how to make some Anti Backlash Nuts.Here is a pics of the bearing blocks assembled.The bearings were a nice tight press fit in the perspex.

edmond
05-22-2007, 01:27 AM
Hi All

Haven't made much progress just waiting for payday so I can buy the MDF board and the power supply goodies.I have all the parts ready for cutting.Heres a pic of what the machine will look like eventually, it was designed by Andy and its really a awesome design

hardwic
05-22-2007, 09:49 AM
Hi Edmond

Nice big looking machine there.
I built a machine but it's only 600x400 and totally out of 10mm HDPE.
I found the cost of screw threads here in S.A. crazy so I just used standard non galv 8mm metric tread. I cut a block of HDPE 20x20X10 and cut a tread through the 20mm length.
HDPE has very low friction and the length of the thread results in no play.
I currently have a backlash of 0.1mm configured in TurboCNC and I can drill 0.8mm holes in circuit boards with no problem.

Cheesey I know but it works.http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon12.gif

edmond
05-22-2007, 11:28 AM
Hi Hardwic

This machine has a cutting area of 1270mm x 670mm x 150mm gantry clearance.Yep I know the Acme rod is pricey at R360/m here in SA.Your machine sounds good, is the HDPE quite rigid, mine will be built out of MDF.Nice knowing we have some people building routers here in SA.

Cheers Edmond

hardwic
05-22-2007, 11:47 AM
HDPE is rigid but depending on thickness. I used 10mm and used 20mm battens to cross brace the structure. It also more expensive the thicker it gets. Cape Plastics is a good supplier. HDPE machines like a dream.

I am using MDF as the base cutting board becasue it always get's messed up when machining parts. You can always use air to cool you parts (perspex)

Linear bearings where also very expensive so I used them on my bottom slides but on the x slide I machined blocks of HDPE with a 12mm ID and used them instead of bearings.

edmond
05-22-2007, 03:05 PM
Hi Hardwic

I might use HDPE to make the motor couplers, I know it machines lovely just its pricey and my budget it very tight but I got a friend who can get me offcuts of HDPE, Acetel and Nylon pity they are small pieces.Can I use M12 threaded stainless steel rod instead of ACME rod, it would be 5 times cheaper.What controller and motors are you running, I've got a HobbyCNC controller and am going to use the HobbyCNC 305oz/in stepper motors.
This machine uses linear bearing bushes on the Z axis and aluminium angle with skateboard bearings running on pipe for the x and y axis.I imported the Z axis linear bearings, even with shipping costs they work out to 3 times cheaper.

Cheers Edmond

belli
05-22-2007, 05:18 PM
Hi Edmond, :wave:

Great progress, I am sure that you will be happy when it's done!

Cheers,
Greg

www.cncdirect.co.za

PS There are more 'saffers' here than you know!

hardwic
05-23-2007, 01:55 AM
Edmond, I am using plain old M8 non galvanized http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif
I kind of expected the HDPE threaded block to ware out quickly so I designed it as a replaceable part but so far no problems.

I initially thought ball screw was the way to go but when something is priced my the mm you know it's not for DIY.

I would imagine on your 1270mm access a 12mm threaded stainless rod would be fine. In fact why not try plain old steel first? I don't like machining stainless (or at least my lathe can't handle it) and you have to machine each end for bearings and motor attachment.

I designed my machine with a R1200 budget (I was given the stepper motors)
My drivers are the discrete design from PMinMo but I am now rebuilding them with the L297 version because resonance is a big issue and speed is compromised. Ball park figure, building a L297 driver is about R100.

I believe if you are designing a machine that needs to run 24/7 and will produce big money then buying linear motion products are justified but then again why build the machine, just buy one.

edmond
05-23-2007, 04:22 AM
Hi Greg

Thanks for the encouragement.Im still going to order the goodies you quoted me on definitely at the end of this month or as soon as the finances are right.Hows your 4 x 8 router buildup going? Do you have any suggestions for the Anti Backlash Nuts, I thought of something similair to the DumpsterCNC design because its self adjusting and wear compensating.Is it ok if I use M12 threaded rod instead of Acme rod, the Acme rod is so expensive here at R360/m.

Cheers Edmond

edmond
05-23-2007, 04:29 AM
Hi Hardwic

I was going to build the L297 drivers myself but it worked out cheaper to buy the HobbyCNC Driver board and I wanted a problem free driver board with decent microstepping cababilities.The total cost of the HobbyCNC driver board kit was R780 inc customs charges and Vat, I would go for it If I was you. The mosfets were to expensive for the L297 boards at R110 a piece.Why dont you use Acetal for your leadscrew nuts, its much better wearing than HDPE, Im going to use acetal for my leadscrew anti backlash nuts.I will probably use normal M12 threaded rod.Send a pic of your machine pls

Cheers
Edmond

hardwic
05-23-2007, 05:47 AM
Edmond, the FET's (IRLZ44N) for the L297 are cheap R7.80 at www.mantech.co.za (http://www.mantech.co.za)

The most expensive part is the L297 @ R33.63, this is why I say you can build it for less than R100.

Not trying to do anyone out of bussines though.

Messing with electronics may not be everyones bag though.

I have not got a problem with the shaft thread but will try you suggestion when it wares out.

edmond
05-24-2007, 07:22 AM
I cut the other bearing supports for the z axis today out of 12mm cast perspex.I also cut some locking nuts for the leadscrews out of 15mm acetel, I must still drill and tap them for set screws on one of the flats.Otherwise not much progress, just waiting for payday so I can buy more parts

edmond
05-29-2007, 04:17 AM
I had a go at making some Anti Backlash Nuts, still got to slot them and put a O ring or spring in the grooveto take up any backlash..I machined them out of Nylon, its hard as a rock cut them on the Multicam CNC Router at work.Would Nylon be ok to use.I had to run the tap through 4 times before it stopped removing material.They are a nice smooth fit on the leadscrews.

gmfoster
05-29-2007, 09:08 AM
I had a go at making some Anti Backlash Nuts, still got to slot them and put a O ring or spring in the grooveto take up any backlash..I machined them out of Nylon, its hard as a rock cut them on the Multicam CNC Router at work.Would Nylon be ok to use.I had to run the tap through 4 times before it stopped removing material.They are a nice smooth fit on the leadscrews.

I suspect nylon would be very good but that is a guess based on other things I have seen nylon used for.

Garry

hardwic
05-30-2007, 01:45 AM
R.E. stainless threaded rod:

Edmond, something I only realised now:withstupi if you use standard thread you will have a small pitch (1-2mm, 0.0025-0.005mm per halfstep) which will give you very high resolution but will be slow.

I don't know what motors you have but it seems the general rule is, the biger the motor, the more torque and less speed so you really want bigger pitch.

Also in your case, you have a 1200mm axis, which if spun at high speed would bend and cause vibration. If I look at the SKF datasheet for 1300mm length the min diameter is 20mm with a pitch of 6mm. Ouch that is a big thread!

edmond
05-30-2007, 04:20 AM
Hi Hardwic

The plans specify 1/2" Acme rod with 10TPI ie a pitch of 2.54mm.The threaded rod I am using has a pitch of 1.75mm and a diameter of 12mm, M12 so its not too far off.Im going too lose out a bit on speed with the slightly smaller pitch threaded rod im using.The leadscrews are all pre tensioned at the end bearings so whip won't be a problem, the max feedrate is 100in/min with 200oz/in stepper motors which I am going to use.I was going to use trapezoidal threaded rod with a 12mm diameter and 3mm pitch from Igus but I cant afford the R1600 for the threaded rod at the moment.Thanks for the info

Edmond

hardwic
05-30-2007, 05:55 AM
Hi Hardwic

The plans specify 1/2" Acme rod with 10TPI ie a pitch of 2.54mm.The threaded rod I am using has a pitch of 1.75mm and a diameter of 12mm, M12 so its not too far off.

Edmond

I guess if the Acme rod can only give you 1000rpm it's not worth the money.
This would take about 30sec to do your 1200mm axis.

Anyway, I am quiet happy with M8 thread for now, although I have just upped the drivers to run at 2000hz (don't know yet if this directly relates to RPM) and it seems fine. For my first DIY machine it's OK for me.

Jason Marsha
05-30-2007, 06:50 AM
You can also try acme 1/2" - 10 2 start which is 5 turns per inch or similar.
Then the motor does not need to rotate as fast and therefore the stepper remains in low rpm range where it has the most torque.

Some are using 1/2"-8 2 start on Joe's machine for the long axis, Joe is getting 200ipm (5080 mm/min) rapids, and 80-120ipm cutting , he can cut faster but he did not want to push the tool changer and router too much.

The Z axis however is best left with a smaller pitch all-thread or 1/2-10 acme.

NB. The above was related to the use of 200 oz/inch motor s

Edit: 1/2"-8 2 start not 4 start acme

Jason

edmond
05-30-2007, 11:31 AM
Hi Jason

Thanks for the advice, but I can only get the trapezoidal threaded rod here in South Africa which is a single start 3mm pitch.Is there a good stockist of 1/2" 10TPI 2 start Acme rod you could recommend or somewhere where I can be it online.I have tried Enco but the shipping works out to $560 to South Africa for a 6 foot length!!!!.Thats why I was going to use M12 threaded rod to start off with.Mcmaster dont ship to South Africa either.Any other suggestions on what I could use.

Thanks
Edmond

Jason Marsha
05-30-2007, 10:54 PM
www.mcmaster.com sells acme but I am not sure about shipping.
The 3mm pitch is a good place to start. Every rotation on the motor the gantry will move 3mm while the 1/2-10 2 start will move the gantry 5.08mm for every rotation.

Jason

edmond
06-04-2007, 01:45 AM
My wood should be arriving today.Over the weekend I bought some M12 threaded rod and some other fasteners.I also got some dowel pins so that there are no alignment issues when I glue the gantry sides and table end pieces together.Should start cutting the wood this week.The homemade anti backlash nuts I made turn very smooth with no backlash detected,I will be making some more anti backlash nuts this week if I get the Acetel offcuts a friend promoised me.Otherwise nut much progress.

edmond
06-06-2007, 01:01 AM
The MDF arrived on monday, cut it yesterday on the CNC Router at work.I've still got to clean all the edges of the MDF, I did test fit a few of the pieces and they interlock nice and tight can,t wait for the weekend so I can start assembling the machine.Here are some pics of the MDF being cut and some when its finished.Still got to buy the stepper motors and the leadscrews and the Aluminium Angle, will have to wait till the end of the month.

tajord
06-06-2007, 07:04 AM
Nice job edmond, i'm sure soon we'll be seeing some assembly, tell me, are you gonna paint this baby, if so what color.

edmond
06-06-2007, 07:15 AM
Hi Tajord

Thanks, im going to start assembly this weekend.
Yes I am going to paint it,I was thinking of hammertone silver as a colour.

Edmond

tajord
06-06-2007, 07:58 AM
sounds nice, can't wait to see your progress

edmond
06-11-2007, 01:43 AM
I made some good progress this weekend with assembling the various parts.I managed to assemble the gantry uprights, table supports, Z assembly and partially the Y axis torsion box.Anyone know what I can use to seal the MDF, would normal wood primer be ok thats what the local hardware store suggested.

edmond
06-18-2007, 01:37 AM
I made some more progress this weekend, managed to glue together the gantry base and table assembly.Didn't realise this machine was so big.Hopefully by the end of the month the pile of parts will start reseambling a machine.I still got quite a few parts to buy before its up and running.

Jason Marsha
06-18-2007, 07:44 PM
Your progress is looking good. Wood chips flying by next month?
Keep up the good work

Jason

edmond
06-19-2007, 01:47 AM
Thanks Jason.Do you know of a good source for cheap stepper motors, they are going to be the biggest expense in building this machine.I checked out HobbyCNC.com they seem about the best but with shipping and customs charges they cost about $220,maybe I should check out ebay they are to expensive to buy locally in South Africa the cheapest ones being equal to $140 each.

Cheers
Edmond

rlrhett
06-19-2007, 01:10 PM
...Didn't realise this machine was so big...

Yeah, probably what stops me from purchasing this kit is that it is just too big! I feel like Goldilocks, most kits are either too big or too small. I'm looking for a 20 X 30 cutting area that will fit on a 30" deep counter top.

Jason Marsha
06-20-2007, 09:15 AM
Thanks Jason.Do you know of a good source for cheap stepper motors, they are going to be the biggest expense in building this machine.I checked out HobbyCNC.com they seem about the best but with shipping and customs charges they cost about $220,maybe I should check out ebay they are to expensive to buy locally in South Africa the cheapest ones being equal to $140 each.

Cheers
Edmond


Ebay may be your best bet. I normally get the package deal from hobbycnc which includes all the board parts plus wire and motors so that I can get cutting as quickly as possible.

Jason

joecnc2006
06-20-2007, 01:00 PM
Yeah, probably what stops me from purchasing this kit is that it is just too big! I feel like Goldilocks, most kits are either too big or too small. I'm looking for a 20 X 30 cutting area that will fit on a 30" deep counter top.


your footprint will always be larger than cutting area.

rlrhett
06-20-2007, 01:06 PM
Of course. Still I had hoped to have a 30 inch foot print for a 20 inch cutting area. I also have about 3-1/2 feet length on the counter top for the 30 inch cutting dimension. Is that still not enough for the cutting area I want?

Truth be told, the largest object I intend to cut in my shop would be a finished piece 16" x 28". But, I know I want to cut that piece! :devious: so even a 24"x24" won't do the trick.

edmond
06-27-2007, 01:48 AM
No progress was made on my machine this past weekend but its payday this friday, so I can finally buy more parts.I am hopefully going to buy some more MDF for the skins for the table,Y torsion box and gantry base torsion box.Im also going to order the 1.5" Aluminium angle, unfortunately I have to buy a 6m length when all I need is 1m.Im going to get some more M12 All thread for the rest of the leadscrews, will have to get the ends turned down as the all thread measures 11.8mm and my bearings have a 12mm ID so will have to get new bearings along with cutting new bearing mounts, will keep the existing bearings and mounts for when I uprade to 12mm trapezoidal threaded rod in the future which has a diameter of 12mm on the dot.

Cheers
Edmond

edmond
07-04-2007, 07:30 AM
I didnt get much done on the machine this past weekend, but I brought some 6mm and 12mm MDF and some M12 Threaded rod.I glued the Y torsion box and the lower gantry torsion box skins on and started painting them with wood primer, thats as far as I got.Hopefully this weekend I can finish painting all the parts with primer.

Cheers
Edmond

edmond
07-12-2007, 01:28 AM
Not much progress has happened lately on my machine.I got a broken microwave so im busy rewiring the transformer to suit my power supply needs using the excellent article posted by Bubba on this site, otherwise no progress,just saving up some money for the steppers.
Edmond

edmond
07-12-2007, 04:20 AM
I need some advice about which laminate trimmer or router to use with the lionclaw cnc i am building.I can get a Makita laminate trimmer but its only a 530W model with no variable speed.I can only use a router with a max body diameter of about 120mm.Any Suggestions.

Edmond

spalm
07-12-2007, 08:40 AM
My suggestion would be to buy a router, not a trimmer. There is not much difference in cost (in the US). I tried a Porter Cable laminate trimmer and quickly switched to a router. Bigger bits, more power, easier to change bits (this was a bugger on the PC), etc. Variable speed is also a definite plus. I have had good luck with factory rebuilt items to reduce cost, but I don’t know what is available to you.

Steve

tajord
07-12-2007, 11:39 AM
I too would recommend you buy a router, you'll probably end up changing the trimmer later anyways, a trimmer seems a little light for this machine also.

edmond
07-17-2007, 01:53 AM
Can I use a Electric Die Grinder or Straight Grinder as its known in South Africa? I can get a 900w or a 700w with variable speed 6000 - 24000 rpm, it has a nice long narrow neck and its made by Metabo so should be good quality but can only take up to 1/4" cutters.I cant seem to find any routers with a body diameter of 110mm or smaller here in South Africa.Any recommendations would gladly be appreciated before I lay down the money for a straight grinder

Thanks
Edmond

belli
07-17-2007, 04:38 PM
Hi Edmond,

Unfortunately we don't have the same choices as our American friends, fixed base routers (Makita, Bosch, Hitachi and Porter Cable) are unobtainable here. I have not been able to get a reasonable explanation why??? The fixed base router makes for very easy mounting as it has the cylindrical neck, your alternative is the plunge base router which makes for very difficult mounting but probably the next best choice. If your wallet extends that far then importing a Porter cable is from the USA is good, you will need an additional R800 for a 110-220V transformer, you can get the 220V machines from Aussie or the UK but they are much more expensive.

Depending on the size of your machine, you may find the 6mm collet very restrictive, the biggest cutter is likely to be 8mm and if you need to pocket a surface it will take forever, 1/2" is better. I have tried an Hitachi RM8 which wasn't bad (600W) and took 8mm collets, but the front bearing sits in a plastic housing which is no good if you want to machine aluminium. Most routers like the Metabo have a 43mm neck which is a size common to all manufacturers and this will allow you to change easily if you wish and keep the machine mounting simple, they are usually more expensive, the Hitachi was about R800.

Try one of the Ryobi plunge base routers for about R500 with 8mm collet, aluminium front housing and variable speed which will get you started until something better comes along.

Cheers,
Greg

www.cncdirect.co.za

edmond
07-20-2007, 01:26 AM
Hi Greg

Thanks for the advice.Is a plunge base router a normal hand router, they are very bulky dont know how to mount one on my machine, I only have a 120mm space to mount a router.The Ryobi router you suggested seems affordable can you give me a model number for it.The straight grinder is way out of my budget at R1765 but its light and easy to mount.My machine is only made out of MDF so I dont want to mount a very heavy router on it.

Thanks
Edmond

keitholivier
07-22-2007, 08:29 PM
Edmond & co

Nice to see some ZA activity going on at CNCzone ! I'm a former south african myself, lived in all the provinces - Newcastle, Bethlehem, JHB, Vredenburg, PE, Mossel Bay, PE and then a move to Germany and finally I'm here in Michigan.

The supply situation in ZA certainly sucks. Regarding your leadscrew, you might try to look up companies in ZA that actually make screws commercially. Typically, they roll the threads with a die box containing multiple thread rollers. I can see that shipping is a problem because of the length and you have already looked up places like Mc Master Carr.

If you need smaller stuff shipped, send me a PM and I can get a quote from the local post office. Most stores will only ship international with a courier (door to door). Knowing the theft issues in the postal service this may be prudent dependng on the value, but there is still insurance available on regular certified mail. I think the key thing is to get your order consolidated and pay the international shipping just once instead of a dozen times from every vendor.

We have a local Home Depot, Lowes, Menards as well as a few "tooling" stores. I would recommend www.littlemachineshop.com (http://www.littlemachineshop.com) for anything tooling related. You might also want to look at the spindles that they carry. I think the transformer fo step down the mains voltage is the least of your worries. The least expensive will be an "auto transformer" where there is only 1 winding that is center taped and 110 is drawn off one pole and the center tap. Most of my family were radio hams and we allways found this kind of stuff cheap. Find out where your local amateur radio chapter has their meetings, go there and talk about your project (they are always nosy people) and a suitable transformer should turn up in no time...

Best of luck and be safe
Keith

edmond
07-23-2007, 01:39 AM
Hi Keith

I have tried to source the leadscrews here in SA, can only get them from Igus in Durban but they are pricey at R350/m for TR12mm x 3mm pitch.In the meantime im going to start with M12 threaded rod for my leadscrews.I have finally brought a plunge base router to use as my spindle its got 1100 W of power and variable speed 10000 rpm - 30000 prm and it cost R600 with 3 collets and 12 router bits, just got to find a way of mounting it.

Thanks for the help
Edmond

keitholivier
07-23-2007, 09:22 PM
I had a look at Mc Master Carr and a 3/4" acme threaded bar in 6' length costs $71.28 Your price is about $100 but if one included shipping it would be cheaper to buy in ZA. Of course we are comparing 3/4 = 19mm to 12mm, so that is a significant size difference.

There is a deal on ebay right now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140098702718&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=004

1/2" stainless acme thread 6' for $12 buy it now....

Such is life.

<TABLE id=ItemTable cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR><TD id=PartNumberCell><NOBR>Part Number: </NOBR>99030A575 (http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=99030A575)</TD><TD id=PricingDataCell><NOBR> $71.28 Each</NOBR>
</TD></TR><TR><TD id=ItemAttributesCell colSpan=2><FORM name=idsFeatureValueChange action=""><TABLE id=ItemAttributesTable cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Material Type
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Steel
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</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Plain
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</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Ungraded
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Type
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Precision Acme Threaded Rods
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Steel Type
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>C1018 Alloy Steel
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>System of Measurement
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Inch
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Acme Size
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>3/4"-8
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Starts
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>1
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Thread Direction
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Left Hand Thread
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Thread Fit
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>2C (Self-Centering)
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Turns Per Inch
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>8
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Length
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>6'
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Lead Accuracy
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>0.007" or better per foot
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Minimum Tensile Strength
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>70,000 psi
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Hardness
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>144 Brinell
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRowHL onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Specifications Met
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Not Rated
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></FORM></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

gmfoster
07-23-2007, 09:41 PM
I had a look at Mc Master Carr and a 3/4" acme threaded bar in 6' length costs $71.28 Your price is about $100 but if one included shipping it would be cheaper to buy in ZA. Of course we are comparing 3/4 = 19mm to 12mm, so that is a significant size difference.

There is a deal on ebay right now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140098702718&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=004

1/2" stainless acme thread 6' for $12 buy it now....

Such is life.

<TABLE id=ItemTable cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR><TD id=PartNumberCell><NOBR>Part Number: </NOBR>99030A575 (http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=99030A575)</TD><TD id=PricingDataCell><NOBR> $71.28 Each</NOBR>
</TD></TR><TR><TD id=ItemAttributesCell colSpan=2><FORM name=idsFeatureValueChange action=""><TABLE id=ItemAttributesTable cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Material Type
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Steel
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Finish
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Plain
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Grade
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Ungraded
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Type
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Precision Acme Threaded Rods
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Steel Type
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>C1018 Alloy Steel
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>System of Measurement
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Inch
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Acme Size
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>3/4"-8
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Starts
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>1
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Thread Direction
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Left Hand Thread
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Thread Fit
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>2C (Self-Centering)
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Turns Per Inch
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>8
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Length
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>6'
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Lead Accuracy
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>0.007" or better per foot
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Minimum Tensile Strength
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>70,000 psi
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRow onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Hardness
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>144 Brinell
</TD></TR><TR class=featValRowHL onmouseover="this.className = 'featValRowHL';" onmouseout="this.className = 'featValRow';"><TD class=featureNameCell>Specifications Met
</TD><TD class=featureValueCell>Not Rated
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></FORM></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


You might want to look at the ebay link again as that isn't ACME..
Garry

edmond
07-25-2007, 01:28 AM
I bought a router for the machine this past weekend.It came as a kit with 12 router bits all the fence attachments and 3 collets(6mm, 1/4" and a 8mm).Its a smallish router with variable speed(10 000 rpm - 30 000 rpm and 1100W of power.Its a plunge base router so its a bit difficult to mount but I will find a way of mounting it.I also made some new Anti Backlash Nuts out of UHDPE, they are a split design with a spring to tension them and remove the backlash, I might remake them out of Acetal if wear is a problem.Otherwise not much progress but I plan on starting to assemble the linear bearings at the end of the month along with epoxing the pipe rails into place.If the budget allows it I might paint it as well.

edmond
07-26-2007, 03:39 PM
I need some advice about which leadscrews I should use, I can get trapezoidal spindle 12mm x 3mm pitch at R260 or $37 per metre or 14mm x 4mm pitch at R340 or $49 per metre.Is the 14mm one worth the extra money I know it would be faster than the 12mm one, am I right.Im going to use the trapezoidal spindle for the X and Y axis and stick with M12 allthread for the Z axis.This weekend Im going to start making the router bracket.

Cheers
Edmond

edmond
07-30-2007, 04:04 PM
I need some help with choosing stepper motors.I like the new low inductance 305oz/in 3A stepper motors from HobbyCNC, would they be a good choice for this machine or would the 205oz/in be a better choice.I am going to use 14mm x 4mm pitch trapezoidal spindle for the X and Y axis leadscrews and M12 allthread for the Z axis, which motors would be a good choice for the above leadscrews.

Edmond

joecnc2006
07-30-2007, 04:20 PM
I would go with his (HobbyCNC) new 305oz/in motors, they should run Very smooth for you.

Joe

edmond
08-06-2007, 01:32 AM
I made a little progress this weekend, finished making the Aluminium Angle linear bearings and bought some components for the power supply.I had to buy a whole 6m length of Alu Angle so I still got about 5m left.I also rewound a microwave transformer using Bubba's excellent article, Im using the transformer for the power supply.I haven't made the router mounting bracket yet, I might just mount it using the plunge base and then reinforcing the spindle carriage sides to carry the load.The router weighs about 3 kg hope thats not too heavy.This week im going to start making a enclosure for the driver board and power supply, I have some 10mm offcut clear perspex so thats what im making it out of, will cut it and do all the holes on the CNC Router at work.
Thats it for now.

Cheers
Edmond

edmond
08-20-2007, 01:30 AM
Its being a while since I last posted a reply because my progress has being a little slow.I made a little progress this weekend, I finished painted the parts with primer, I also trial fitted some of the gantry pieces everthing fitted together fine.I also drew up a router clamp in Corel Draw to match the funny profile of the router body, planning on cutting it this week in MDF or HDPE.I am having trouble getting lovejoy type couplers, I found some similiar couplings but they are very pricey at R300 or $41 each so I might just buy some 20mm thick Aluminium and make my own couplers at work on the Multicam CNC and will make the spiders out of 12mm thick HDPE, will work out a lot cheaper.
Thats it for now

harryn
08-20-2007, 03:52 PM
I am enjoying reading your thread. It is unfortunate that it is difficult to source parts there, and obviously, shipping large parts like a lead screw is expensive.

This might explain why we tend to see so many Aussie's building up machines with belt drives - the belts can be rolled up into smaller packages along with some gears, etc. Not sure if that can work for you or not.

There is a very high ID theft / fraud rate for credit card purchases esp. from Nigeria, and this might be affecting the willingness of businesses to ship to S.A. I know it is a different country, but it tends to get thrown in with "Africa" in general.

If you could anticipate a need for a "batch" of routers to be sent for your own use and local re-sale to others, perhaps that makes the shipping a bit more reasonable per unit. I am kind of a Bosch fan and you can get a good idea of pricing from www.amazon.com, as well as others.

As far as belt drive parts, I am planning (at some point) to buy some precision belt parts from Brecoflex, so if that is interesting, maybe we can work something out.

Take care

Harry

edmond
08-21-2007, 01:00 AM
Hi Harry

Thanks for the info and kind comments.I might build my second machine using belt drive components, it would sure be cheaper and it would run faster, but for now I just want to finish this machine first.The belt drive idea sounds interesting though, do you have a website for Brecoflex just want to check out what they offer and what their prices are like.

Thanks
Edmond

harryn
08-21-2007, 01:13 AM
www.brecoflex.com

I have not done a price check on their stuff yet. The price for the special tooth version of the AT belt was not listed on the site. I am planning to call them soon to narrow down what I am after, but nominally 20 - 25mm wide, AT10 tooth size, and the special version with minimal backlash.

Of course, there are pulleys that go with this, etc, so I am trying to put a list together before calling.

If you have some items in mind, just list them out, and I will add them the call - post them here.

harryn
08-21-2007, 04:49 PM
Hi, I just put an RFQ into the brecoflex web site system for a variety of AT5, AT10, and ATL5 style belt / pulleys, etc. I will post the info when it comes back. There seems to be sort of a 25mm standard width once you start gathering together standard part numbers, so that is what I asked for.

edmond
08-22-2007, 12:50 AM
Thanks Harry, I checked out their website, they've got some nice stuff there.I attempted to make some router clamps yesterday but they dont work it seems the Ryobi router I bought has a body that tapers slightly smaller towards the top, will try and make another set today and I must still try to make a mount for the plunge base as it cannot be removed.

edmond
08-29-2007, 01:38 AM
I made a little more progress this past weekend, I started painting all the parts a nice silver but didn't get very far, the weather turned bad.I also recut the router clamps, they now fit I must still somehow remove the routers plunge base it gets in the way unless I mount the router with all its switches, spindle lock and variable speed facing the Z axis which is pointless.I will strip the router down totally too try and remove the base.I hope to have the machine assembled minus leadscrews and motors by next weekend.

edmond
09-03-2007, 01:36 AM
I made some more progress this past weekend, I finished painting almost all the parts silver.I bought some 10mm ID bearings for the Z axis leadscrew, plan on getting its ends turned down to suit the bearings.I also finally found Lovejoy type couplers at my local Bearing Man bearing and power transmission dealer, they only had 1 in stock but are getting some more during this week.They are the LO 50 series units and feature steel hubs with a M6 setscrew and they cost R40 or $5.5 for a complete coupling which is really reasonable.The spiders have a little play in them but I plan on cutting new spiders out of some 12mm thick hdpe.The couplers have 6mm pilot bores so will have to get them bored to suit the 1/4" stepper shafts and the leadscrews.

edmond
09-11-2007, 01:23 AM
I started assembling the main table this past weekend, glued the top skin on will do the bottom one this coming weekend.I also plan on starting to assemble the various pieces together this weekend, all the bearing mounts and linear bearings.I also plan on ordering the hobbycnc stepper motors soon i will be going for the new 305oz/in low inductance units.I also plan on ordering the Acme threaded rod at the end of the month.I need to buy the linear shfting for the Z axis too since im using proper linear ball bearing bushes for it.

Lionclaw
09-12-2007, 08:50 AM
It sounds like you're making good progress Edmond. Post some pictures when you get a chance :)

edmond
09-12-2007, 09:51 AM
I will post some pics tomorrow otherwise progress has being a bit slow, I hope to finish the machine by the end of October.Any test cuts on your new machine so far and what size stepper motors are you using on your machine Andy?

Lionclaw
09-12-2007, 11:29 AM
So far the only test cuts i've made have been into the table surface. I cut a grid of mounting holes on both sides of the table. One side has .3" holes for 1/4-20 tee nuts and the other side has 3" access holes.

I've got two of the hobbycnc 200oz motors and one of their 80oz motors. I'd like to order one of their older boards with 4 300oz motors.

wdp67
09-23-2007, 11:08 AM
Nice Edmond
Did you convert the edrawings to dxf to program your router at work or how did you do it. I really want to build this router, but I am not sure how to convert the e-drawings to something I can use.

Thanks
Walt

edmond
09-25-2007, 02:41 AM
Hi Walt

I took measurements one by one of the various parts in e drawings, drew some rough sketches of the parts and wrote the dimensions on them, then I drew them up in Rhino 3d modelling software and saved them as a dxf file im sure there are quicker ways of converting it to dxf format.

wdp67
09-25-2007, 07:59 PM
There has to be I would think, this is taking me forever. Wish someone would chime in. You don't still have the dxf's do you?

Walt

edmond
09-26-2007, 02:22 AM
Hi Walt

I still have the dxf files but the slots are all made for 12mm MDF and the holes for the Z axis linear shafting is made for 20mm dia shaft, all the bolt holes are also metric sized, some of the pieces also have 6mm holes for dowel pins to hold them while gluing them together.

wdp67
09-26-2007, 07:29 PM
Thanks a lot I will see what I can do!

Walt

edmond
10-01-2007, 07:23 AM
I finally had a chance to work on my machine this past weekend, I assembled the bearing blocks and the linear alu angle bearings to the gantry uprights.I also marked out and drilled the holes to mount the spoil board.I still need to put the lower skin on the table assembly paint it and then epoxy the pipes in.I still haven't ordered the stepper motors yet, the finances just haven't been available.I also stripped my ryobi router down and managed to remove the plunge base that was in the way of everything.Hopefully I can get a little more down this coming weekend.

edmond
10-09-2007, 04:06 AM
Didnt make any progress this past weekend due to other commitments but hopefully I can get some serious work on the machine done this weekend.I finally ordered the stepper motors from hobbycnc, I went with Dave's new 305oz/in low inductance models hope they are a good choice.

edmond
10-18-2007, 01:11 AM
The table assembly is finally finished, just need to glue the pipe rails and paint the the table assembly.I still need to finish gluing the z axis but first waiting till I get the linear rod to make sure everything moves smoothly and lines up well.I still need to make an enclosure to house the electronics.I also need to order the 12mm x 3mm trapezoidal leadscrews hopefully I can order those next week along with a few components I need for the power supply.Otherwise the machine is taking shape nicely just a pity a dont get much time to work on it, Im still planning to have it finished by the end of the year.

edmond
10-30-2007, 01:02 AM
Yipee the stepper motors are at the post office will get them in my lunch time today.Going to get the couplers, power supply components, linear rod and a few other bits this weekend.This past weekend I recut the router brackets out of 20mm HDPE.I got some nice HDPE offcuts from a friend last week.Still need to finish the Z axis.The machine should be up and running in about a months time, I can't wait I already have a lot of work lined up for it

tajord
10-30-2007, 01:28 AM
Glad to hear you're on the home stretch, can't wait to see those pix, i've decided to make one of these machines as it looks a lot more sturdier than my jgro, and it has a greater cutting area with more or less the same foot print, plus i don't really need that much parts this time around, just got to get a few things out the way first, will keep you posted.

edmond
10-31-2007, 04:13 AM
I fetched the stepper motors yesterday, hope they perform well.I also managed to source a 24V 10A transformer and all the other electronic bits, cant wait for the weekend so I can get started. I still need to source some 6 core 22 ga cable for the steppers.I am going to use M12 x 1.75mm all thread as the leadscrews just to get the machine up and running until I can afford the tapezoidal ones.

joecnc2006
10-31-2007, 10:02 AM
Edmond, you certainly been working on this machine for a while, Like you I Look forward to seeing it up and working for you. You will have a blast seeing all the different things you will be able to do with the machine, The best reward for me is making things for friends and family members and seeing their face in amazement, and telling them i built the machine that made this.

Joe

edmond
11-01-2007, 01:27 AM
Yep Joe I know its taken a while but sometimes the finances just weren't available but I managed to get money together to buy the last of the parts. My sister already wants some shapes and letters cut out of MDF, I also have a few people wanting customised photo frames as well as dinosaur skeletons.I also plan on cutting a lot of 3d moulds. Thanks to everybody on this site for the encouragement to finish the machine and all the advice I have recieved from them

Edmond

edmond
11-02-2007, 01:32 AM
I started cutting the enclosure for the elecronics still need to cut two sides and the lid, I cut it out of 10mm clear acrylic.Here are some pics of the enclosure,steppers and router mounts.Got a lot of parts to pick up this friday afternoon.sorry about the low quality pics I took them with my mobile phone

edmond
11-05-2007, 12:13 AM
I got quite a bit done this past weekend.I got the linear shafting for the Z axis,picked up the components for the power supply and limit/home switches, I still need to get the lovejoy couplers they are waiting to get collected at my local bearing supplier.I finished the controller this weekend all the wiring and double checked everything.Luckily no smoke appeared at switch on the power supply voltage registered a healthy 34VDC.I made a parallel port cable as I cannot find one locally, I had a old parallel modem cable so I just used the connectors off of it and wired them up using 25 core computer cable.I also wired up the steppers and 2 of them work the Z motor resonates and the shaft turns occasionally on its own, I will double check everything is wired up correctly tonight

bbj
11-05-2007, 01:36 PM
Cool, i wanna do the same for my hobbycnc enclosure. I have a full sheet of 5mm clear perspex 3m x 2m standing idle. I need to build my machine first and then use it to make the enclosure ( using a temp sheetmetal box for now ). The only issue i have is the weight of my transformer. From the size of your power switch ( i have the same ones ), my transformer is about double the size. 5mm perspex is gonna flex a bit.

How do you intend joining the panels on your box ?

John

edmond
11-06-2007, 12:30 AM
Hi John

My transformer looks small in the photo but actually it quite big and heavy it weighs about 6 pounds, it is rated at 250Va 24V at 10.4A.I would go for thicker perspex if I was you I went with 10mm acrylic beacause I had a nice offcut I had been saving.I glued and bolted the front panel to the base while the back panel is just bolted on the base so it can be removed.I think im just going to bolt the side panels to the base as well, gluing them would be easier than drilling and tapping but I want them to be removable.

edmond
11-07-2007, 12:24 AM
My pc is the cause of my Z motor doing its own thing, I ran the Mach3 driver test and I get massive spikes on the timing graph so im going to format my pc or if I can afford it buy a good s/h pc.I got the rest of the lovejoy couplers just need to enlarge their bores.The rest of the machine will get assembled this weekend

gombault
11-10-2007, 01:48 PM
Hi Edmond
I joint the cnczone to find out more about induction heating. While looked around this site and found you guys also from South Africa. I make my own stepper motors, drives and other related components. I convert and built cnc, machines the latest a large cnc foam cutter and a cnc plasma cutter. I am not into supplying cnc kits to the world I don’t have the time for that. I could supply to local guys on a small scale. I would not recommend lead screws or making anti backlash nuts it doesn’t work. I used for the foam and plasma machines bicycle chains they are cheap and you get no backlash. The only problem is you need high-resolution steppers; I made planetary gearboxes for my motors that give me 2150 steps per revolution on halve stepping. I don’t like them but you could use micro stepping drives or you could use a small 5 to 1 reduction belt or gear setup to get the high resolution. Edmond I am sorry to say butt my motors is not cheap. But you can call me at 018 7886497
Regards
Marcel

edmond
11-13-2007, 12:21 AM
I made a little more progress this past weekend, I finished assembling the table assembly and the Z axis so its finally beginning to look like a CNC Router.This coming weekend I want to glue the pipe rails in and finish assembling the machine.I am still having problems with my Z motor it skips on its own I have tried 2 pcs, changing the APCI setting on the pc's'and fine tuning the motors.I might have to use TurboCNC but I really want to use Mach 3 because of its features and user friendliness.I have posted a thread on the Artsoft Mach3 Forum, I really need some help with the Z motor problem.I will post some pics tomorrow.

Cheers
Edmond

edmond
11-19-2007, 11:59 PM
I made some good progress this past weekend, I glued in the main pipe rails, trimmed the Z axis linear rod to size,fitted the homemade linear bearings in the spindle carriage.I also started the final assembly of the machine after it was finally moved into my garage onto its designated spot.I also finally sorted out my Z axis motor problem it turned out my parallel port was configured wrong in the pc's bios.The machine should be up and running by the end of this coming weekend.

Lionclaw
11-20-2007, 08:29 AM
It's looking great Edmond. Good work!

edmond
11-26-2007, 12:20 AM
I started assembly of my machine this past weekend, I got the gantry mounted along with the Z axis.The gantry and the Z axis carriage run really smooth on the gas pipe rails just a light finger push and the gantry moves from one end to the other end of the table.I started assembling the leadscrews and leadscrew nuts but they bind up, they appear to be misaligned, I will make a new set of bearing mounts with slotted holes to allow me to get everything aligned again, the Z and X are both out of alignment it appears the leadscrew drive nuts is out of alignment.I have mounted the router on the Z axis, just hope my brackets are stong enough as the funny shape of the router body makes mounting a problem, if it does not work I will switch to a Metabo electric die grinder.

edmond
12-03-2007, 12:15 AM
I made some really good progress this weekend, managed to finish the rest of the machine apart from installing the X stepper motor as I broke a coupling hub on the X leadscrew.I had to shift the X leadscrew bearing mounts by 10mm to the left as I had assumed they were centered but they are not.I did a test jog on the Y and Z axis, the Z axis is nice and smooth but the Y axis 12mm all thread leadscrew seems to have a slight bend causing it to whip a bit so I can only get rapids of 60ipm or 1500mm/min before I start losing steps.The Y leadscrew is also noisy so maybe its out of alignment.I knew the max rapid speeds were going to be slow as the all thread has a pitch of 1.75mm, hopefully I can upgrade to trapezoidal leadscrews with a 3mm pitch in the new year which should almost double the speed.

BMG
12-05-2007, 10:50 PM
Your machine looks great Edmond. I had to laugh at your images above. The table top looks lust like mine - all full of tools and notes and no chips....

Keep up the good work.

edmond
12-06-2007, 11:55 PM
I have made some better adjustable bearing mounts with more adjustability in them.I also cut some lovejoy copy couplers out of 25mm thick HDPE, will have to see if they will hold up.I have some steel ones but when I enlarge the pilot bores on them using a drill press the bores come out off centre and I dont know anyone who has a lathe.I plan on sorting out the rest of the machine this friday evening.Will post some pics as soon as Ive done some test cuts.

edmond
12-09-2007, 11:40 PM
I still have a major whipping problem with the long X axis all thread leadscrew, I can only get 40ipm or 1000mm/min out of it before it starts whipping so violently, maybe if I use stainless all thread it would be better as I think the normal galvanised all thread I am using is to soft maybe I should just order the proper metric acme spindle in the new year.Any advice would be appreciated on this problem.

BMG
12-10-2007, 01:29 PM
I still have a major whipping problem with the long X axis all thread leadscrew, I can only get 40ipm or 1000mm/min out of it before it starts whipping so violently, maybe if I use stainless all thread it would be better as I think the normal galvanised all thread I am using is to soft maybe I should just order the proper metric acme spindle in the new year.Any advice would be appreciated on this problem.


Is the allthread just hand tightened at the bearing mounts? If you get a bit of tension on the allthread, it might help tame some of the whipping.

Of course too much tension is likely to lead to binding too.

edmond
12-10-2007, 11:48 PM
Hi Brian

I have tightened the lock nuts at the bearing mounts just tight enough to avoid binding, I might put a spring in between the bearing and locknuts to apply a bit of tension.Will double check all the locknuts maybe they have setlled in and come a little loose.Glad your machine is up and running

Cheers
Edmond

BMG
12-11-2007, 01:11 PM
...Glad your machine is up and running....


Well - its up. Having binding issues on my Z axis so it is not retracting properly. Its painfull to see the router plow across a finished section into the next area at full depth.

As to the whipping problem, I recall that discussed in the original Joe2 build and the spring on the end was one of the solutions as well. Wouldn't know where to link the discussion seeing the number of posts in the thread now.

Hope it helps you out.

Brian

edmond
12-18-2007, 12:00 AM
I still haven't done a test cut yet.Didn't get much of a chance to work on the machine but I did mount the limit switches just need to wire them up.The Mach3 manual says I can use the limit switches as home switches so do I just connect them up in series and hook them up to one pin only on the hobbycnc board, I was going to use pin 10.I also fitted a pci parallel port card to my pc so now the motors dont intermittently turn by themselves.Hoping to do a test cut or even some engraving soon

kleintoren
01-03-2008, 05:16 PM
Hi guys - limited internet time - where can I get plans for this CNC and parts in SA

Thanks

Looks Damn good

belli
01-04-2008, 03:38 AM
Hi Kleintoren,

Have a look at www.cncdirect.co.za

Regards,

gombault
01-05-2008, 11:05 AM
Hi
I could help in South Africa would need more info on what you want to build. You can phone me at 018 7886497 its Marcel.

kleintoren
01-05-2008, 03:49 PM
Hi gombault

Thanks - will contact you on monday

Dont know what to build as yet - want to 1st build something to use with my plasma cutter and then a milling type machine.

the Lionclaw looks like it could be quite a nice one to do..

I have some printer stepper motors and some old printer parts that I want to experiment with (small scale I suppose) to get aquainted with this field.

I am good with technical things, computers and with my hands but have no knowledge of motors and strengths etc

thanks for the quick reply

edmond
01-09-2008, 04:36 AM
Sorry for not having any updates, I have being on holiday for the past 2 weeks but finally back home to do some serious work on the router.
Started on wiring up the home/limit switches today, also finished on the Mach 3 config hoping to do a test cut or some engraving today or tomorrow.Im going to finish designing a dust shoe that I am going to cut out of perspex when I go back to work on Monday 14 Jan

Cheers
Edmond

edmond
01-14-2008, 12:02 AM
I have finally finished the machine home/limit switches all working, I love it when the machine homes itself.I finally ran some test cuts, done some engraving on some 3mm hardboard and cut some letters out of some 3mm hardboard as well.The edge finish is not as smooth as I wanted it to be, it seems the bend in the X leadscrew sends out a bad vibration which shows up when it cuts.It is accurate though.Gonna try and get the trapezoidal leadscrews the end of jan.

edmond
01-25-2008, 12:13 AM
Does anyone know how i can work out the max rpm of leadscrews.I want to order the TR12mm x 3mm pitch trapezoidal ones but first want to see what rpm I can get out of them before whipping takes place.I found a calculator at nook industries website and they say the critical speed is 422rpm with a length of 1800mm and both ends supported.I checked my actual length is about 1725mm the leadscrew is supported by a deep groove radial bearing on either side, it will also be preloaded with a bit of tension to reduce whipping.My 12mm all thread at the moment is spinning at 571rpm but because it has a slight bend and it is only normal soft mild steel galvanized i get some serious whip at these speeds.Pls help.

Thanks
Edmond

Thazul
01-25-2008, 09:39 AM
Hi Edmond,

Good job on the machine!

I was playing with the calculator on nooks website also, and here is what I found:

TR12x3 screw (7.69mm root diameter)
1725mm between bearings
End Fixity B (2 angular contact bearings on one side preloaded, and a floating bearing on the other side)
Has a Max RPM of 312.

I think with only one bearing on each side, this number would go down.

Keep the pictures coming, and keep up the good work! :)

-

Andy

edmond
01-27-2008, 11:57 PM
Hi Andy

Thanks for the help about the leadscrew rpm and the kind words about my machine.I have finally ordered the trapezoidal leadscrews, they are expensive equal to about $126 for 3m but they are the only type of acme/trapezoidal leadscrews I can get here in South Africa and they sure beat using normal all thread.

I cut one of those 3d butterfly models this past weekend, I cut it out of 3mm MDF with a 3mm single flute cutter, it came out quite good.I might have a order for some of these 3d models, just gotta make some samples first and get them approved.

Edmond

edmond
02-04-2008, 06:23 AM
Had some more fun with my machine this past weekend, I cut a scorpion skeleton model out of 3mm MDF.Cant wait for the trapezoidal leadscrews to arrive, looking forward to the extra speed they will provide

edmond
02-20-2008, 12:28 AM
I cut a stegosaurus this past weekend, broke a few cutters in the process.I really need to get some adapters so I can use 3mm up spiral cutters in my 1/4" collet, the router bits I am using at the moment have a flute length which is too long.I have about 4 3mm up spiral cutters just waiting to get used.The trapezoidal leadscrews have still not arrived, apparently they only left Germany on Monday, I ordered them from Igus here in SA but they order them from their HQ in Germany.At least I can start cutting out the flanged leadscrew nuts, have a nice piece of 33mm acetel to use.I have attached a pic of the normal hand router bits I am using at the moment

Jason Marsha
02-21-2008, 06:40 AM
Edmond,

Glad to see you are having so much fun with your machine. Keep the pictures coming.

Jason

edmond
02-27-2008, 12:12 AM
The trapezoidal threaded rods have finally arrived in South Africa, they must still get freighted to me but should have them on friday.Does anyone know what the core diameter is of the TR12 x 3mm trapezoidal rod from Igus is.I need to cut the leadscrew nuts before the weekend.I have also finally ordered a collet adapter to adapt 3mm slot drills to a 1/4" collet.Im going to have a busy weekend fitting the new leadscrews.Thanks Jason, I will post some more pics asap, haven't done any cutting for the past 2 weeks.

edmond
03-03-2008, 06:31 AM
Unfortunately the leadscrews never arrived on Friday but they arrived this morning so there went my weekend plans on installing them.They are a lot stronger than the all thread I am using at the moment.The core diameter appears to be 8mm, so i will cut the leadscrews with a 8mm hole and then tap them using a homemade tap from a offcut of the trapezoidal spindle, I still need to make the tap.Im hoping to at least double my rapid speeds maybe I can get 80 - 90 ipm.

drieslaas
03-03-2008, 08:13 AM
Hi Edmond,

Where are you based?
I'm in Centurion, doing a 4'x8' 3d router.
Almost there......

edmond
03-03-2008, 11:47 PM
Hi Drieslaas

Im based in Cape Town.Start a thread on your build, would be nice to see some pics of your buildup.

Cheers
Edmond

edmond
03-10-2008, 01:19 AM
I managed to install the new trapezoidal TR12 x 3 leadscrews.I am quite impressed about the increase in speeds, I can know get 2540mm/min or 100ipm.The X axis is now very smooth, no more heavy whipping.I haven't had a chance to try a test cut yet with the new leadscrews, I am still waiting for my 1/4" to 3mm collet adapter, hopefully they will get made this week, I have a friend who said he would get them made up in their maintenance workshop at his work.I cannot find a local stockist of these collet adapters, one power tool place told me the could get a commercially made one but it would take a month to arrive.I have a stack of samples to cut for my sister as well as a bunch of dinosaur skeletons.

Jan de Ruyter
03-10-2008, 12:26 PM
Verbolt in Vereeniging does Acme thread
Tel: (016) 422 4491
Fax: (016) 421 1729
Gerald Nienaber [Gerald@verbolt.co.za]
sales@verbolt.co.za

edmond
03-11-2008, 01:11 AM
Thanks Jan
Its nice to know there is another supplier in South Africa.The service I got from Igus was terrible, and when the trapezoidal rod arrived the one had a bend on the one end, I just straightened it by hand otherwise I will have wait another month or so for a replacement piece and I cant afford to have my machine down.

edmond
03-25-2008, 01:40 AM
I did my first project since the new leadscrews have been installed.I can get 100ipm on the Y axis, 80ipm on the X axis, the X axis leadscrew still has a bit of whip I think im going to put a second bearing on the bad side to try and stabilize the screw better or maybe go to dual row 5201RS angular contact bearings to try and preload the screw better.I cut a velociraptor this past weekend, I used a 3mm upcut spiral O flute cutter.My collet reducer was finally finished, I eventually got a good friend to make up one for me so I can now use 3mm shank cutters in my 1/4" collet.I still need to sort out some kind of dust extraction as well as trying to quieten the machine down a bit.

edmond
05-20-2008, 02:19 PM
Im still in the process of sorting out a dust extractor I did buy a nice powerful wet/dry vacuum cleaner that im going to use in the meantime.Hopefully at the end of the month I can purchase a licence for Mach3 hate having to split up jobs like im doing now.Im busy setting up a small cnc routing business from home so another machine might be on the cards soon.I might consider switching to a Metabo electric die grinder to use as the spindle its quieter and easier to mount but less powerful at 700W compared to the Ryobi router that has 1100W of power.

edmond
08-10-2008, 03:27 AM
I have finally purchased a licence for Mach3 so no more splitting jobs up.This machine has a number of disadvantages its to slow on the rapid feeds and is not rigid enough to cut thick materials, I am therefore in the planning stages of starting a buildup of a 4' x 8' MechMate which will solve all my problems.The Lionclaw machine has been a good learning curve for me.I will start a new thread for my MechMate buildup when some progress happens.

edmond
10-03-2008, 11:31 AM
Its been a while since I posted, I haven't yet started on the MechMate build the finances aren't available yet.
I have a question about the Kress milling spindles, are they a lot quieter than a normal plunge router as my neighbours are complaining about the noise from my Ryobi router?
I am looking at buying a 800W Kress spindle from a Danish website as the die grinders available here in SA are expensive, the makita 750W unit is R2400 about $283 the Kress unit works out to about R1950 inc shipping and seems much better built for cnc use.
Is there any way I can maybe quiten my current Ryobi router?

tajord
10-03-2008, 11:57 AM
Have you done an enclosure for your router, i'd start there as it should be cheaper than the cost of a router, i've heard it helps with dust control too.

Something you could consider.

edmond
10-03-2008, 12:49 PM
I was thinking about an enclosure too, it would certainly help with the dust as I cut a lot of MDF, but I still want another router/spindle as the Ryobi only has a 6mm, 1/4" and a 8mm collet and I dont like using reducer sleeves, I've already had a cutter pull out of the collet and bury itself deep in the table due to a poor fitting reducer.
The Kress unit at least has different sized proper collets and is easier to mount.
Would egg boxes be a good sound insulating material to line the inside of the enclosure.

Thanks

harryn
12-10-2008, 01:18 PM
Hi Edmond - There are some users of the Kress units - I didn't do a search, but I remember some happy users posting.

I have a bosch 1/2 in Electronic Variable speed with 1/2 in collet - probably my best tool (but I don't own that many) Much quieter than a lot of routers, but not silent either.

In the meantime, some heavy carpet or carpet pad will absorb a lot of noise, esp. a few layers vs 1.

edmond
12-11-2008, 12:17 PM
Im going to look around for a second hand electric die grinder when im on leave in 2 weeks time, might look for a second hand makita router as well they about the best available here in SA but pricey new .Im also going to get a proper dust extractor, I have already made a dust collector foot.

BMG
12-22-2008, 10:40 PM
for sound proofing - check a local fabric store - they sell the urethane foam used for making furniture and such. Can attach to the inside of the enclosure with contact glue and it certainly lightweight. There is also an egg crate style foam you could get.

I can appreciate the noise issue - I finally got my machine running earlier this month and the noise from the Porter Cable router gets out of the brick building pretty easy.

edmond
01-25-2009, 01:58 AM
I cut some 1/4" phenolic yesterday it cut really well using a 6mm upcut spiral bit cutting at 1200mm/min or 47ipm, I cut it in 4 passes just to be on the safe side could maybe do it in 3 passes as the stuff is quite hard the rpm on the router was 18000rpm
I finally got a dust collector, its a Ryobi unit with a single 85l bag should do the job quite nicely as the phenolic makes a real mess when cutting it worse than MDF.
Ive still got a few things to do before the machine is 100% finished like adding the homemade cable chains and implementing the moving knot anti racking system.
I will be moving the machine shortly so the noise problem wont be an issue anymore, so I will stick with the Ryobi router till I can afford the Kress unit

edmond
02-08-2009, 01:28 PM
Machine has been moved now so no more noise issues.
I plan on ordering some anti backlash leadnuts from dumpstercnc really soon since he now makes the metric trapezoidal leadnuts in the TR12 x 3mm size.
Still gotta cut some more cable chain parts for the x axis and get the computer up and running.got some nice thick very flexible plastic similar to those curtains that are in front of some supermarket fridges this will work awesome for the dust collector foot.

biotech1
02-10-2009, 10:11 PM
Edmond---Have you had any racking or noticed any o your machine. Just curious was getting ready to build the lionclaw...

edmond
02-11-2009, 12:03 PM
Hi biotech1 I havn't noticed any racking yet but then I havn't used the whole cutting area yet, ive only been cutting in the one corner of the table.Im still going to add the anti racking system as per wyldsyde007's thread on making your gantry rock solid check it out at http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51485

edmond
02-13-2009, 02:42 PM
Anti Backlash Nuts have been ordered from dumpstercnc hope they arrive in a few weeks.
Going to finish wiring the motors this weekend hopefully and get the machine up and running since moving it

edmond
04-25-2009, 06:19 AM
The machine has been up and running for about 3 weeks now everything is sorted out including dust extractor which works really well.I have been cutting a lot of these dinosaur skeletons out of 3mm MDF using a 3mm cutter at 44IPM really cuts these nice.The dumpster AB nuts are here but haven't installed them yet but I did trial fit them on a spare piece of TR12 leadscrew and they seem fine not too tight.

Jason Marsha
04-25-2009, 09:19 PM
Pics Pics Pics :)

edmond
05-02-2009, 04:16 PM
will post some pics tomorrow

edmond
05-03-2009, 11:38 AM
here are pics as promised